Brian H

Where did you ever find a 2.0mm center pin connector? I have only seen 2.1mm and 2.5mm center pins with a 5.5mm barrel.

I used the one from my ISY26 and it fit fine. The one from Smarthome didn't seem to want to fit my ISY99i. So you are NOT alone. The one from Smarthome kind of fit but was so TIGHT; I was afraid it would get stuck and may break the jack of the ISY99i. My supply from Smarthome is a MLF Brand. MLF-005W0501000-C I think UDI will have to clarify if more than one external power jack was used. I know that there are two 5.5MM outside barrel types. One has a 2.1MM pin the other a 2.5MM pin. In my case I took a 5.5MMX2.1MM from my spare parts bin and it fit my older ISY99i external power jack and ISY-26

Yes since the ISY99i isn't going go do much as it uses the PLM to do all the controlling of all the modules in the Insteon Network. Can you describe not working. Is the power LED On? Any other symptoms. In the diagnostics tab what does the Show PLM Info/Status indicate? Make sure the cable between the PLM and ISY99i is firmly connected. I have an external supply with my 2413S Dual Band PLM. 5 volts 500MA from my old ISY26 setup. The 2412S PLM supplies a unfiltered 12 volts that is used by the ISY99i.

Even though not on the exact same plug. Are all the devices on the same branch circuit? Like one breaker would turn all of the devices off and on. It is very possible the iMacs power supplies are either making line noise or are signal absorbers. The Drobo supplies may also. I do know most computer power supplies and surge strips can be problems with power line signals.

You are welcome. It does sound like it has a hardware problem and calling Smarthome sound like a good idea.

I don't know if it has to be removed and added back. A factory reset will clear out all the setting in the I/OLinc so maybe a restore through ISY is all that is needed.

If you disconnect the magnetic switch from the S and G terminals. Does the LED still stay on? If it does I would suspect the sensor input on the I/OLinc has failed. If you have a multimeter. From S to G, with no connections, should be close to +5 Volts. In my tests of I/OLincs. I found that <1V>1 volt made the LED Glow but not trigger the sensor input. About 800 Ohms or less from S to G triggered the input. You may want to try a Factory Reset on the off chance the controller chip is confused and set the signal pin it uses for an input to an output.

They also go into power saving mode and you could not access it to change its state.

Sounds like they did the math for you. When fully loaded 500 watts on the AC Input with 400 watts for the 12 volt lights on the load side.

Yes the light bulb is resistive and the voltage and current are in phase with each other. Inductive and the current lags the voltage by 90 degrees in a perfect world. If the supply is a transformer and not one of those new electronic ones. I would expect it to be an Inductive load. This current lagging the voltage maybe why some modules have a different rating for inductive loads. I didn't see one for the SWL or just plain missed it.

300 Watts on the output is 12 volts 25 amps 12V X 25A=300W Since the transformer is not 100% efficient. The 120 volt primary will draw more than 300 watts. Now my math maybe rusty here. I believe at an efficiency of 80%. The AC 120 volt side would be drawing 375 watts or 120V X 3.125 A. If the transformer was a impossible 100% it would be 120V X 2.5 A =300 W.

If you do decide to get a new PLM. The 2412S PLM is still back ordered until 07/30/10 {Yes new date} The dual band 2413S PLM is back in stock. If you get a 2413S remember it does not supply power to the ISY99i so get one of the optional power supplies also. http://www.smarthome.com/2413S/PowerLin ... and/p.aspx http://www.smarthome.com/1223PS/Univers ... ply/p.aspx

My night on scene that is Sunset -10 minutes adjusted automatically when DST started. I also have my time set by the NTP Server through the Internet. I don't know if that has any bearing on it.

The spec sheet for the 2412S says 2016 but from what I have seen here >800 seems to be a problem. The 2413S is 1023 from the sales page. I have not seen a number mentioned for with an ISY99i.

Smarthome has said early firmware BoosterLincs and Insteon do not get along with each other. I have also seen reports of the later Insteon blessed ones causing trouble also. Is it possible you have a bogus link in the KPL and it is trying to contact the link?

Passive couplers may pass Insteon signals as they are 131.65 KHZ and X10 is 120 KHz. I used the Smarthome Dryer Plug one for a time with OK results. I also have seen reports of some X10 repeaters seeing part of an Insteon signal and sending a bogus X10 signal on the power line. Now my JV Engineering XTB-IIR the blasts >10 Volts of X10 signal back on the line is Insteon aware and stays quiet. Smarthome had early BoosterLinc devices in a warning about removing then when you installed Insteon.

Some one in the Cocoontec forums got an email that indicated Verizon was changing things. Not sure if yours is effected. http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index. ... opic=16446

My RemoteLincs show no status as a power failure caused a restart and all of then show no status. I just pushed a RemoteLinc button. ISY shows the LAST command the button sent, but the button is not physically on or off. So what you are seeing was the Status of the button and not it being physically on or off. As an RF device it goes into a power save mode and you can't access it unless woken up. That is why when the ISY programs a button you have to use the Bright Dim buttons to wake it up.

Do you see modules changing in the GUI screen when you locally actuate them. Like does the ISY screen update if you turn a SwitchLinc on and off? Just curious to see if the PLM is passing anything on to the ISY99i.

Have you tried. Tools Diagnostics PLM Info/Status Make sure it says connected and give the PLM firmware version.

There is a problem with the T1700 sending bogus humidity readings. There is a modification you can do to the T1700 to correct it. If it has not been done yet. http://forum.universal-devices.com/view ... ight=t1700

If you didn't get the Users Manual yet. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf The users guide indicates that a flashing Error LED is a file error and the MEM LED the internal memory is being accessed. You already reseated the SD card so UDI will most likely have more ideas.

I doubt it. Take a real close look at the Motherboard. Look for swollen and oozing capacitors. I had a similar thing happen to me only in my case it was the Hard Drive. Used XPs Shutdown choice to turn it off for the night. It just hung for ever. I tried a hardware reset and the hard drive just banged it head on the stops then it no longer showed in the BIOS as a detected drive. If it had a separate video card it also may have failed.

You do know that 2.7.15 is available and will be an official release if no major bugs are found? http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=4480

I just let mine timeout. I never used a 1-6 button but poorly chose a button that would turned the LED off or the Beeper.