Brian H

What receiver are you using for the IR-3000?

Access Points are needed for any Insteon RF device. Including the RemoteLinc and modules others have mentioned. There has also been threads indicating to not use the older SignalLinc RF modules at all.

Not sure if it is normal in all setups, but I have seen other reports of flickering. Especially if almost to the minimum dim setting the CFL can stay on at.

Installed with no problems.

I made a test board with outlets; Input Line power switch; input line fuse; light socket and a set of terminal strips to tie them together. By moving jumpers around I can test plug in modules and hard wired modules. You are not alone. I test ever module and wired in module before installing it. I also have a list of ID numbers so I don't have to remove wall plates or crawl behind furniture to get an ID.

The controller chip in the module maybe lost. Though still responding indicates other wise. Anyway try turning off the breaker to it for maybe 30 seconds and see if it then acts better. If not it may be damaged and the relay in it is stuck on or the electronics is keeping it on.

No. I have one in the tabletop case Smarthome sells. No load on it.

If you look at the list of choices. You will see the Insteon Device Code in the left column. I am thinking one is an earlier revision InLineLinc with less features. The v00 also shows the revision of the firmware was not known. Auto Discover may have worked better than manually picking from the list.

I don't have one of those 220 volt switches, but it looks like a 120 Volt SwitchLinc Relay combined with a power relay who's coil is 120 volts and switches both live wires. Thus the Neutral power wire is needed. I bet your old one was maybe a X10Pro XPS2 [i don't have the X10 part number at hand] and since it drew current on both lines. The GFI never saw enough current imbalance to trip. #4 Two thoughs. The neutral you picked was on for a different branch and the GFI detected it as a leakage condition between branches. The other thought is the 120 volt SwitchLinc was causing the Lines to not be balanced as only one powers the Switchlinc and again it tripped. I hope someone has a few thought for you on this. Maybe someone that got a Simplehomenet EZSwitch30 to work as it also uses one line and neutral for power while switching both hot lines.

Yes the power line derived power supplies use a capacitor for the voltage drop and mess up many meter readings because of the phase shift. I also use a Kill A Watt when I do tests.

The Leviton 8287 is a wired in filter and is rated at five amps. Is the CFL dimmable? Using a dimmer type switch on a CFL can sometimes lead to noise and reliability problems. Even if you are only using it at 100%.

Mine installed fine over 2.7.12 Only thing I had to do was download the 99i Administrative Console as it went away during the update; or at least the icon on the desktop went away.

Yes from what I have read it is accumulated heat. If there is a relay type or regular switch between them. The reducing the wattage is not needed. The InLineLinc maybe lower as most times it is not screwed to an electrical box. That could absorb some of the heat. I don't know if there is any electrical code related to switches in a ceiling.

Just one thing to remember. If you mount the SwitrchLinc Dimmers next to each other in a switch box. Each one has to have its maximum wattage rating lowered by 200 watts.

That sounds too warm. Where you doing anything that may have kept it transmitting signals like in a Query or adding many items to the network? It could have been some power line spike confused the PLMs microcontroller and it locked into a strange state. The power cycle may have cleared it. If you let it cool down could you then reconnect to the ISY and Admin Console?

Skylinc makes the Insteon Motion Sensor for Smarthome/Smartlabs.

I have found the older receive only Smarthome X10 modules absorb MORE power line signal than a two way Insteon module. Seems they eliminated the tuned transformer in the receiver and substituted a broadly tuned series connected coil and capacitor to the receiver. It seems to be a great signal absorber.

IR may not show if you don't have an ISY99i that had the IR option. When you purchased the module. Did it install and then do a reboot? Mine did. Do you know what revision firmware is in your unit? Should show in the about choice in the help tab. If for any reason it didn't get installed properly. I am sure UDI will correct it in a orderly manor.

Access Points do not link. The LED tests only verify communication between them and that the first two are on opposite phases. After the first two are installed. You don't have to do the LED tests but it is nice to at least know that they are talking to another one.

If you look in the ISY Log does it show anything? Maybe in Diagnostics you could use the Event Viewer in level 3 and see what is happening. Some outside noise can also make the LEDs blink and look like an X10 or Insteon message.

Is the noise always present or only during actual Insteon control? You maybe hearing the noise of the digital electronics running in the ISY99i or PLM. AM has a hard time with any digital noise. I can walk around my home with an AM radio. Get near many digital devices and light dimmers. The noise is very present. My router makes all kinds of AM radio noise. I also found my MicroBrite CCFL bulbs emit an RF signal right smack in the middle between the X10 120 KHz and the Insteon 131.65 KHz. Not on the power line so it doesn't effect the control signals but messed up my XTBM tester. You may want to try moving the receiver to different places or if the noise is sneaking up the power line. A filter on the radios power cord may help. Preferably one made to play nice with X10/Insteon power line signals. Like a FilterLinc or maybe an X10Pro XPPF.

No Insteon module can have its firmware updated by software. It can only be done with a hardware programmer physically connected to the modules programming connector.

Sorry I have no data on SwitchLinc relay versions. Other than my real old 2.0 and 2.1s are in the range of bad tact switches where the paddles stops working. Smarthome will replace those if they get intermittent.

What interval is the Weather Module set to get data? Mine by default was every 60 seconds. I turned mine off when we where having the 1941 date thing along with the NTP Automatic Time Sync. I never turned it back on after updating to 2.7.12.

Zone Alarm is fine. It was only a problem when I first had an ISY-26 and the ISY address was not in the "Trusted Zone"