Brian H

Some one in the Cocoontec forums got an email that indicated Verizon was changing things. Not sure if yours is effected. http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index. ... opic=16446

My RemoteLincs show no status as a power failure caused a restart and all of then show no status. I just pushed a RemoteLinc button. ISY shows the LAST command the button sent, but the button is not physically on or off. So what you are seeing was the Status of the button and not it being physically on or off. As an RF device it goes into a power save mode and you can't access it unless woken up. That is why when the ISY programs a button you have to use the Bright Dim buttons to wake it up.

Do you see modules changing in the GUI screen when you locally actuate them. Like does the ISY screen update if you turn a SwitchLinc on and off? Just curious to see if the PLM is passing anything on to the ISY99i.

Have you tried. Tools Diagnostics PLM Info/Status Make sure it says connected and give the PLM firmware version.

There is a problem with the T1700 sending bogus humidity readings. There is a modification you can do to the T1700 to correct it. If it has not been done yet. http://forum.universal-devices.com/view ... ight=t1700

If you didn't get the Users Manual yet. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf The users guide indicates that a flashing Error LED is a file error and the MEM LED the internal memory is being accessed. You already reseated the SD card so UDI will most likely have more ideas.

I doubt it. Take a real close look at the Motherboard. Look for swollen and oozing capacitors. I had a similar thing happen to me only in my case it was the Hard Drive. Used XPs Shutdown choice to turn it off for the night. It just hung for ever. I tried a hardware reset and the hard drive just banged it head on the stops then it no longer showed in the BIOS as a detected drive. If it had a separate video card it also may have failed.

You do know that 2.7.15 is available and will be an official release if no major bugs are found? http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=4480

I just let mine timeout. I never used a 1-6 button but poorly chose a button that would turned the LED off or the Beeper.

My Lighting is quired at 3:00 AM everyday on mine. Was actually there from the factory when I installed the unit.

Yes I have done it with the link buttons manually. Can get very tiring real quick. As others have found. My ISY99i has spoiled me. I almost abandoned Insteon due to early adopter issues. If it was not for the ISY26 that was then changed to an ISY99i. I most likely would be using a different protocol. Yes that can be taken as a vote for the UDI controllers. One point. If you later get an ISY99i controller. Most recommend removing all the manually added links and start from 0 and build up.

No you do not link the PLM to the ISY99i.

I just downloaded the update and it failed at 44% of the install. I am sorry I didn't note the exact file name it said it could not read. I retried it and the second attempt went to 100% and after clearing the Java Cache and rebooting everything looks fine. It may have been AVG as I can't find any way to turn it off easily. I did turn off Zone Alarm.

No. The module is designed to have both relays go on and off together. At least that is how my earlier revision one is. I don't think the latest revision has changed anything.

Fan motors are inductive and should not be controlled by a dimmer. Both the switch and the fan could be damaged. A SwitchLinc Relay, that does not dim, is what should be used and no speed control is done. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... Rev_5.0%29 Read the caution part of the full users manual.

The sticker is not the firmware version. It is the hardware revision. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... _I_Have%3F From the chart in the link Rand gave. Look at the "Label On Device" column for the KPL. You will see that 1.3 was the earliest someone reported and 5.1 was the latest. The chart also gives known firmware revisions for each hardware revision reported and other data like I1 or I2 compatible. You may also see a few devices with different hardware revision numbers and the same firmware revision in the chart. I have a hardware revision sticker v1.4, six button KPL Dimmer, in a tabletop case. Firmware revision my ISY99i reports v.29 and Event Viewer shows adding and removing it from my system used the older i1 protocol. My V1.4 also had clear buttons and has both the 6 and 8 button sets in the box.

I don't believe Smarthome/Smartlabs puts the modules firmware version on the modules anymore. They did on the older ones. The V number on the module is a hardware version and will not match the firmware version ISY is displaying.

Do you have a thermostat that has a humidity sensor in it? The T1700 One day does not have that option, but it has been found to cause all kinds of varied humidity reports; with the V2 adapter. There is a fix posted in a thread here if yours is a T1700. Basically you have to solder two pads on the T1700s PC Board to stop the constant humidity swings.

I do a factory reset on all my new modules before installation. Some module did get out of factory with test addresses in them.

http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... r_Messages I am sure the UDI team will have a cause in mind to explain the error.

I believe this thread may help you. http://forum.universal-devices.com/view ... c&start=15

The T1700 one day thermostats don't have a place for a Humidity Sensor and can give bogus readings. Smarthome had a fix of soldering the open humidity sensors pads to common if memory serves me.

The T1700 one day can not have the optional humidity sensing module installed like the T1800 seven day can.

The Dual Band Lamplinc can be used in place of an Access Point.

Insteon modules should remember their links and scenes as the settings are in an EEPROM and needs no power to keep the settings correct. Heck I have Appliance Lincs with old data in them for months unplugged. My SwitchLinc relay also had no problems after my 22 hour power loss a few weeks ago. You do have a Neutral Power wire available for the 220 Volt Switchlinc as the control part is 120 volts.