Brian H

Most UPS and Filtered Surge Suppressors are not tuned to allow them to not absorb Insteon Signals as noise. I claim no knowledge this is 100% correct but a FilterLinc Schematic. http://home.comcast.net/~gafield/family ... Filter.pdf

Most homes have a split phase power. With 240 volts between the two Line Wires and 120 volts between either Line and Neutral. Insteon signals can have problems getting to the other phase. So that is why two Dual Band Devices or a hard wires coupler in the breaker box is recommended. So the signals can get to the other half of the homes wiring. Noise makers and signal suckers. Many modern electronic devices generate noise on the power lines or have built in noise suppression for their internal electronics. Those suppressors absorb Insteon signals as to them it is noise. A FilterLinc that is tuned to prevent the noise getting to the power lines or the device absorbing the Insteon power line signals. Some generic filters would also kill Insteon signals.

Before I changed the fixture in my kitchen. I could have used one in the old fixture. The SocketLinc Dimmer I was using didn't work out very well for me.

Yes I believe it was. Just my memory didn't remember your user name.

Your unit still has the older firmware in it. You should update it to 3.2.6. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=8643

I saw this in a post on Cocoontech Forum. The sales page also indicates it emits a subtle buzz. If more than one is in a location there is a chance you may start to hear it. Also they indicated when they called Smarthome and asked things like color temperature, beam angle and LED manufacture. Smarthome didn't have any information yet.

Sometimes I don't think their hardware engineers and software engineers talk to each other. When some of the new I2CS devices where shipping. Their own Houselinc program didn't handle them correctly. So I doubt developers got much data before they where released. Also with no set button. It is impossible to do a factory reset on the bulb. You have to hope your software can remove and add links correctly. Since there is no data on the LEDs color temperature or beam angle. I will not be a first production run user. I have learned from earlier first production issues. One of my other LED bulbs has a beam angle that illuminates the ceiling when in a table lamp. The Phillips are nice and I have a few of them myself.

Probably will have to wait for an update to the ISY firmware. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8871 The Developers Notes for the bulb. Where just released to the Developers Group today.

Yes I formatted my new one as part of the procedure. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... an_SD_Card

I would think 12 volts would be fine. The original 2412S PLM that also provided DC to the ISY99i. Has a unregulated DC and was closer to 17 or 18 volts DC.

I don't believe it ever worked OK. It went on indefinite hold years ago. They did have a work around that I didn't like. Set the On level to 0% So it was at 0% if it went On. Also had mounting limitations. I believe it was base down so air could flow through the air vents in the body. I believe the manual links on the page still work if you are curious as to how it worked. The present manual had the work around in it. I have an archive of the original before changes.

Could be worse. The short lived SocketLinc Dimmer. Use to turn full On after a power interruption even if it was Off at the time of the loss. Nothing like coming home and all your lights are at 100% http://www.smarthome.com/2454D/SocketLi ... 54D/p.aspx

If the ISY99i or ISY994i is on an UPS. It will not have a clue the power dipped and Run At Startup will never happen.

I have my PLM in the pass through outlet on the front of a FilterLinc that has my UPS in the filtered outlet. I had also thought of the Run At Startup being missed if no power loss was detected and may have to myself. As I just moved my ISY994i's power to a UPS controlled connection. One thing to think about. If you have a recent ApplianceLinc or Icon On/Off module and it should be On. They now default to Off even if they where On at power loss. A Run at Startup would not know to turn it back On.

I would also say. Use the Event Viewer to see what is happening. The PSC01 floods the power lines with X10 commands every second. As you indicated. The one second stream of X10 commands triggers their Powerhorn devices. If the user has a repeater coupler that could compound the timing possibilities. No the last command when the PSC01 is disengaged in mode 2 is an All Lights On not an All Units Off. Mode 2 actions says. Lights will stay On. Log from Smarthome Manager for a 1132CU X10 controller: R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:06 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:07 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:08 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:08 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:09 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:10 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:11 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:12 AM 6/9/2012

How about the Venstar Two Wire Heat Only Kit? http://www.smarthome.com/30418/Thermost ... 436/p.aspx Not sure if you want to deal with a 24 volt wall wart, but it is for a two wire heat only control.

Make sure the filter is made for X10 or Insteon use. Many generic PL Filters absorb X10 and Insteon signals as noise.

Another I2CS quirk. Each model module may use different parts of the I2CS protocol. One may only NAK a Engine query if not in its link database and another may also NAK with a bad Checksum.

I also have not seen any posts on Arc Fault Breakers being a signal problem. I have seen reports of some brands false tripping on Insteon power line signals as documented in the Smarthome Wiki.

If the modules are new. They are almost guaranteed to be the Insteon I2CS firmware and needs the latest 3.2.6 ISY firmware. I believe strangeness in Scenes is one symptom. Unfortunately the ISY26 can't be updated to that version.

Nice to read it is all working for you.

My Blue Power LED on my ISY994i keeps the whole room well illuminated at night. My older ISY99i with Green LED was way dimmer than the super bright Blue ones.

OK. That is good news. I hope the panel is also happy.

Was the 6 volts on the zone input the same when the motion sensor was triggered and if the sensors wires where disconnected? Could you see the 30 Ohms of the motion sensors wiring go to infinity when it was triggered and not on the zone? Just wanted to see that there where no strange resistors built into the motion sensor. When you connected I1+ and I1- and the PLM for the EZIO8SA flashed. I would think a Insteon message was sent. If the relays are working for other functions. Maybe the Inputs are not paired correctly as you thought. You maybe able to use an ELK-924 Sensitive Relay Board to trigger on the 0-6 volt change and then have its relay inputed to the EZIO8SA. I tested an ELK-924 and it triggered at around +4 volts above ground. There are no resistors physically mounted between the Zone Terminal and its Common Terminal for the Motion Sensor?

Putting any external voltages not provided by the console on a zone input. Is asking for problems or maybe damage. If you disconnect the motion sensor from the zone terminal. What voltage is on the zone terminal to its common? Anyway to measure the resistance of the motions sensors wiring disconnected from the console while someone triggers it? If the voltage ever goes above 5 volts on the analog inputs. The EZIO maybe damaged.