Brian H

Not sure how many shades of White have been used over the years. I know my early V2.0, V2.1 and V2.2 Switchlincs came with a White installed and a Free Ivory Paddle Kit in the box. I will look and see what I may still have. As I changed mine to Almond or used the Ivory ones in the boxes. May have two dead ones in the scrap box with Whites also.

I see that someone close to the Smarthome Factory Store was told the new bright white was what is going to be used.

I saw someone replying to your post in the Smarthome Forums. They where told that the new white was what that where going to be shipping now and that they will have a wall plate to match the bright white paddles and trim.

Depends on the device you want to test. Like the 2413S PLM and Access Points. Tap the set button four times and then observe the actions of the LEDs on the other dual band devices. The full users manuals for all the dual band devices should give each ones way to start it and how the Set LED acts. Links for full manuals are on the devices web page or in the manuals area of the Smarthome wiki. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... 7s_Manuals

Have you used the built in communications test from the lone Dual Band Device on A Phase and verified any of the B phase Dual Band Devices are with in range of it?

Look at the Breaker Box. Should be a layout showing what each of the two power lines feeds. Maybe on the cover. Many times Full Sized Breakers next to each other are on oposite phases so you can use a dual breaker for a 220 volt feed. Half sized breakers may have the two half sized ones on the same phase.

Buzz is probably the heavy coils in the unit. Maybe the wire not wound tightly on the toroid bobbin. If it is buzzing I would return them also. The buzzing ones. Are they the ones giving you the problems you are having in your other thread?

Filtering the electronics is the answer I have seen in a few Automation related forums. That is what we tell users in the X10 forums. Electronically controlled refrigerators, washers, stoves and dryers have also been seen to cause power line signal problems. The sad part is most of the problems is the power supply as LeeG related to. To keep the appliances power supply from putting too much noise on the power lines. They add a capacitor across the incoming power. It effectively shunts the appliances noise but also any power line signals. Spending a few extra cents to add a coil between the Line wire and the capacitor would be all that was needed to help us.

Is the microcells power supply on the same circuit as the PLM? Some wall wart switching supplies can be a power line signal problem. I don't know if the ZWave and Insteon frequencies are too close to step on each other. Is the Aeon Labs unit always sending sensor data? If there is no ZWave transmissions when the Insteon Signals where being sent. Then I would think it could not be a problem.

You may want to try saving the event viewer output in the text mode. Easier to read.

Insteon is 915 MHz. ZWave is 908.42 MHz. You can look up the frequency used by each of your devices in the FCC Database. If you are curious. http://transition.fcc.gov/oet/ea/fccid/

OK Sorry it was not what would assist you. There are others here that may have done what you want to do. I am sure they will provide data on their findings.

The 1626 5 amp FilterLinc was discontinued months ago. Amazon must have some remaining stock. Use the 1626-10 web page. http://www.smarthome.com/1626-10/Filter ... ter/p.aspx Manual covers both the 1626 and 1626-10 versions and indicates it is Insteon Compatible. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/1626.pdf

1626 is the 5 amp FilterLinc.

The FilterLinc sales page on the Smarthome site shows both X10 and Insteon. The 5 amp FilterLinc is basically a 10 amp one with a smaller internal fuse. From all I could determine comparing a 10 and 5 amp models insides. 1626 is the 5 amp version of the FilterLinc and is what is showing on the Amazon web page you linked to. 1626-10 is the 10 amp version and the only one Smarthome now sells.

Not 100% sure if this can do what you want through the ISY Controller. http://www.smarthome.com/318276I/I-O-Li ... Kit/p.aspx

ISY can not communicate with your router. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... Y.27s_LEDs I have seen mine blink after a power loss sometimes. I think in my case the router may not be totally done booting before the ISY994i tried to communicate with it.

The only exception would be if you wanted a completely independent control of a module. Where none of them where known to the ISY Controllers system at all. Then you could manually link the independent RemoteLinc to a independent device or devices. That would be a completely independent system and could not have any of the devices in the ISY Automation setup. Not sure why any ISY owner would want it but it technically can be done.

My older D-Link DI-604 had a setting to enable uPnP. A spare D-Link EBR-2310 also had an option to enable uPnP. Yours maybe the same.

Many PC power supplies can absorb Insteon power line signal or make power line noise. If the PLM is on the same circuit as the old PC. It can be possible it may effect the PLMs power line signals. Unless the old PC is on a FilterLinc or a similar type filter.

LeeG; Looks like they now are supplying a Seco-Larm SM216Q Large Gap Magnetic Switch. Now for what many call confusing. That switch in my electronic terms is a NO type switch. The state the switch is normally in when not activated. In security uses. It is for an NC Zone as the magnet is next to it when the zone is not violated. I downloaded the Seco-Larm catalog and there are almost no magnetic switches for a NO Zone where the switch is closed with no magnet present.

For the original RemoteLinc that has a place to install a label. I used the custom label template on the sales page. I have not tried to physically mark the buttons on it and don't have a RemoteLinc2 to play with.

There is another problem that frequently is not mentioned. Peek Repetitive Currents. When you chop the AC every time it turns On. The electronics in the bulb have to start recharging their filter capacitors. This brief current surge can be over 20 times the normally running current the bulb uses. That is why Cree, Philips and other manufacturers may tell you my bulb uses 15 watts of power but when adding wattage for a dimmer. Use 115 Watts in the calculations.

Any technical folks that are interested in the device. http://transition.fcc.gov/oet/ea/fccid/ Grantee: SB7 Product Code: AAA Details Tab. Includes schematic and photos.

Interesting concept. Replace one of the batteries in the remote with a battery sized transmitter. That sends to the flying saucer receiver. Here is some information on the IR option for the ISY99i and ISY994i http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... R_Tutorial You may want to read the warning on the Smarthome sales page as they also carry it. In both 433 MHz and 418 MHz models. The 433 MHz model has a warning about one of the DirecTv models. As it also uses 433 MHz. The users manuals are on the Smarthome site if you care to look at them. http://www.smarthome.com/8045I/NextGen- ... MHz/p.aspx http://www.smarthome.com/80430/NextGen- ... MHz/p.aspx