Brian H

I don't believe it ever worked OK. It went on indefinite hold years ago. They did have a work around that I didn't like. Set the On level to 0% So it was at 0% if it went On. Also had mounting limitations. I believe it was base down so air could flow through the air vents in the body. I believe the manual links on the page still work if you are curious as to how it worked. The present manual had the work around in it. I have an archive of the original before changes.

Could be worse. The short lived SocketLinc Dimmer. Use to turn full On after a power interruption even if it was Off at the time of the loss. Nothing like coming home and all your lights are at 100% http://www.smarthome.com/2454D/SocketLi ... 54D/p.aspx

If the ISY99i or ISY994i is on an UPS. It will not have a clue the power dipped and Run At Startup will never happen.

I have my PLM in the pass through outlet on the front of a FilterLinc that has my UPS in the filtered outlet. I had also thought of the Run At Startup being missed if no power loss was detected and may have to myself. As I just moved my ISY994i's power to a UPS controlled connection. One thing to think about. If you have a recent ApplianceLinc or Icon On/Off module and it should be On. They now default to Off even if they where On at power loss. A Run at Startup would not know to turn it back On.

I would also say. Use the Event Viewer to see what is happening. The PSC01 floods the power lines with X10 commands every second. As you indicated. The one second stream of X10 commands triggers their Powerhorn devices. If the user has a repeater coupler that could compound the timing possibilities. No the last command when the PSC01 is disengaged in mode 2 is an All Lights On not an All Units Off. Mode 2 actions says. Lights will stay On. Log from Smarthome Manager for a 1132CU X10 controller: R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:06 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:07 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:08 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:08 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:09 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:10 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Units Off - 6:30:11 AM 6/9/2012 R: BAll Lights On - 6:30:12 AM 6/9/2012

How about the Venstar Two Wire Heat Only Kit? http://www.smarthome.com/30418/Thermost ... 436/p.aspx Not sure if you want to deal with a 24 volt wall wart, but it is for a two wire heat only control.

Make sure the filter is made for X10 or Insteon use. Many generic PL Filters absorb X10 and Insteon signals as noise.

Another I2CS quirk. Each model module may use different parts of the I2CS protocol. One may only NAK a Engine query if not in its link database and another may also NAK with a bad Checksum.

I also have not seen any posts on Arc Fault Breakers being a signal problem. I have seen reports of some brands false tripping on Insteon power line signals as documented in the Smarthome Wiki.

If the modules are new. They are almost guaranteed to be the Insteon I2CS firmware and needs the latest 3.2.6 ISY firmware. I believe strangeness in Scenes is one symptom. Unfortunately the ISY26 can't be updated to that version.

Nice to read it is all working for you.

My Blue Power LED on my ISY994i keeps the whole room well illuminated at night. My older ISY99i with Green LED was way dimmer than the super bright Blue ones.

OK. That is good news. I hope the panel is also happy.

Was the 6 volts on the zone input the same when the motion sensor was triggered and if the sensors wires where disconnected? Could you see the 30 Ohms of the motion sensors wiring go to infinity when it was triggered and not on the zone? Just wanted to see that there where no strange resistors built into the motion sensor. When you connected I1+ and I1- and the PLM for the EZIO8SA flashed. I would think a Insteon message was sent. If the relays are working for other functions. Maybe the Inputs are not paired correctly as you thought. You maybe able to use an ELK-924 Sensitive Relay Board to trigger on the 0-6 volt change and then have its relay inputed to the EZIO8SA. I tested an ELK-924 and it triggered at around +4 volts above ground. There are no resistors physically mounted between the Zone Terminal and its Common Terminal for the Motion Sensor?

Putting any external voltages not provided by the console on a zone input. Is asking for problems or maybe damage. If you disconnect the motion sensor from the zone terminal. What voltage is on the zone terminal to its common? Anyway to measure the resistance of the motions sensors wiring disconnected from the console while someone triggers it? If the voltage ever goes above 5 volts on the analog inputs. The EZIO maybe damaged.

I also look forward to your report on how it works.

The PC1832 Installation Manual shows two zones and a common. Like Z1 Com Z2; Z3 Com Z4 etc. Also shows all the commons are tied together on the PCB. Including Aux Power - and Keyboard - If the zones where wired with a 5600 Ohm End Of Line Resistor Detection. The Isolated EZIO Inputs may have triggered a Tamper or Zone Problems. Though I have no actual information on what would happen.

You may find that 90 Ohms you read was being influenced by the trickle voltage mentioned. If you measured it connected to the panel. If the sensor was powered and you then disconnect just the signal wires. What is the resistance of the motion sensors output?

The motion sensor may have a built in resistor so the panel can sense if there is a wiring problem. If the resistance is too low or high it may flag a problem zone on the panel. Do you have any model numbers for the panel and motion sensors? Not easy to find DSC data but I have helped someone with a ADT branded DSC PC1555 panel.

You are welcome. Avast and Zone Alarm are also known to have problems. You may want to do a search here as there maybe somethings you can change in Kaspersky AV to allow it to still work and the Administrative Console to function.

Are you running a firewall or anti virus? If so what are they?

40 failed? Where some of them the older ones with known tact switch problems? The ones where the paddles pushing would intermittently work. Those where given a 7 year warranty extension for just intermittent button operations.

If it is stuck On and even the local paddles will not turn it Off. The surge from the bulb burning out damaged the switch. Another clue is the bulb goes off with the Air Gap switch but is stuck On as soon as the Air Gap switch is closed again. Call Smarthomes Insteon Gold Support Line and explain the problem. They will probably replace the switch. I believe I have seen others reporting switch failures in the Smarthome Forums.

2477SA1 is listed for Indoor use. Maybe you could put it in a weather proof enclosure.

I believe it is still 5-30 volts DC 300ma. Mine came with a 5 volt 1 amp for future expansion. viewtopic.php?f=27&t=8647&hilit=Power+Supply