Brian H

If you left the older Insteon devices and they still can control themselves. I believe a remove PLM command goes out and removes the PLM addresses from all the module. So they are not trying to communicate wit a now gone PLM.

If the power supply is starting to go bad. It can cause all kinds of issues. I have had a few fail myself. Not all on one controller but over my ISY26 to ISY99i and then the ISY994i. One of mine was working maybe slightly flaky and then I did a power reset. It never came back up. Even the power On LED was flashing along with the LED on the supply itself. Take a wide range of voltages 5V to 30V. 2.1mm center pin 5.5 mm barrel. UDI sells a replacement of 12V 2A last time I looked. Some of mine where 5V 500mA.

Since almost all presently available X10 devices are strictly receive only. They have no power line transmitter to even reply to a interrogation if it was available.

From what I have seen. They purchased the base 2412 and then 2413 PLM base units and added their own custom daughter board to them. I have a few of their modules and they are on the 2412 boards and case. Along with their custom Daughter Board. Then when they started having issues with the 2413 boards power supplies and this is noted in their Forums. Just like us. They went back to the purchase of 2412 boards assemblies made just for them. My guess is they are also out of everything for the same reason we are. Company status and if the new owners decide what is going the be made again. The parent company is Compacta and you may see that name in the some of the ISY Devices Lists. The older name was SimpleHomeNet and they changed the name to Smartenit.

The 5010V Lot4R is also internet things enabled and is only 4 outputs as previously pointed out. So it will not work for an EZEye digital or analog output. https://docs.smartenit.com/iot4r/iot4r_quick-start.pdf If you are not using the analog output on the EZEye its digital output would probably interface with many other dry contact input devices. Like an I/OLinc or external input on an Insteon Open Closed Sensor. Both would need the external 12 volt supply to power the EZEye module. I have an EZEye coming and may have some more information in maybe a week. As the instruction sheet is confusing between the needed power 8-20VDC and its output type and possible voltage restrictions. I know the I/OLinc has a 5 volt Sensor voltage and if the EZEye has a Dry contact relay or open collector output. It should work. The open closed sensor maybe too low as it is a battery voltage run unit.

You may want to look at the 1011A EZEye sales page on the resource tab. For the manual and its needs. It has four wire connections. +8 to 20VDC,Analog Output,Digital Output and Ground. Has a pot to adjust sensitivity. It uses 8VDC to 20VDC to run but says +12VDC in the EZEye manual. The other SimpleHomeNet and Smartenit modules have a +12V output. The manual indicates a wall wart 12V supply is needed for the EZIO2x4 as it can't supply enough current on its I/O Connectors. Some of the other models do have a +12VDC on their I/O Connectors. The digital and analog outputs are independent so either one can be used or both can. I have some of the manuals for their products. As I had trouble finding the older manuals for previous models. Let me know if you need any. https://smartenit.com/shop/ezeye/

If they are a low voltage LED driven by an electronic driver assembly. Verify it is designed to be driven by a dimmer style Insteon Switch. I believe you can set all those things on the Options menu for the switch and in the Scene it is in.

I found the installation information on the up again Insteon support web site. It did not say anything about changing the 2450 I/OLinc from its default continuous relay output.

Does the wiring diagram on the side of the unit. Show the voltage is always On one of the two direction wires. With internal limit switches. I don't suppose there was a information sheet in the box? I tied finding the manual for it but all I could find was a manual bypass instructions and they said remove the control voltage before using. That would also indicate one direction input has a voltage on it all the time. Part Number 7450? Is that maybe a kit ID for all the needed parts? The I/OLinc 2450 in your diagram should be set to continuous relay output. If it needs a voltage on one of the valves control wire all the time. Only thing maybe a power failure. If the relay is in the on position it will go off but so will the wall wart valve control voltage and go back on when power is restored.

If the relay was off at power loss it will be off at power up. If the relay was on at power loss it will be on at power up.

This is part of the Smarthome Forum message. They thought a 302545 may just fit. "For what it is worth, the battery in the Mini Remote is accessible and looks like it can be replaced fairly easily. The LIPO (3.7v) battery has a capacity of 300mAh and measures 3mm tall, 25mm wide and 45mm long. For search and id purposes these dimensions are typically denoted as "302545" Clearances within the mini are fairly tight so I'm not sure how much variance from these measurements is tolerable."

I will see it I can find the battery number. Used by a poster on the presently off line Smarthome Forums. The exact battery in the remote was not available so they found a close replacement. That seemed to work fine for them. I too have seen different posts on tabs glued or not. May have been a production change. The internal and external photos of the remote are in the FCC Database in the link in this thread.

Glad it is now working for you. I suspect when you squeezed the casing you put some side pressure on the cables contacts and they made better connection now.

It is a Micro-USB connector. Take a look inside the jack on the remote and you will see the contacts. The plug on the charging cord has the flexible contacts that connect to the contact points inside the jack. The soldered points could be flaky between the jacks contact strips and the solder pads on the board. Though I would suspect the contacts in the charging cord. The photos are in the FCC Database. Including the internal and external photos. SBP Grantee, 23422 product code, in the details tab. https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm

There was a thread on the presently gone Smarthome Forums. From a user that changed the battery that would not hold a decent charge. They gently unsnapped the clips and opened it. I have seen reports that some had a small dab of glue on the snaps. The USB connector is a soldered on part and I don't know if you can squeeze the contacts. I have a jpg file of the inside of the remote and I can see if I can get it here.

They didn't offer updates. Didn't want to release the firmware files and you would need a programmer or did not want the hassle of taking a module back to reprogram them. I believe the chips have a copy back fuse so an unauthorized person could not read back the file and use it for more chips. The unique six digit would be changed in each module. Except the special Developers Module. They all have the same six digit ID so their canned Docklight Scripting file worked for all the developers modules. I have a few of the version 1 access points. They took back our Signallinc RF units and it looked like they reprogrammed the processor and swapped out the RF board. For a fee that is.

Unless Microchip is making the PIC Microchip preprogrammed for them. The chips are the standard ones off the shelf and programmed by Smartlabs manufacturer. Every module has a 5 pin programming connector so the IC can be programmed locally with the proprietary source file. The PLM has two as their is one for the main controller and one for handling the RF communications. Peel off the label on a chip and you would probably find its generic part number.

Did you use the special boot link if the SD card was fresh and no firmware was on it yet? https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card

Would be easier to purchase one from Smartenit. If you assemble it then you could probably easily reverse the RS232 #2 and #3 to look at the signals out of the EZIO8SA side of the equation. To just see if they are talking to each other. The LED on the side of the EZICOMM should flash a few times at power up as it reprograms it to ID as a EZIO8SA and not the native EZICOMM ID.

If the LED pattern is not following the sequence in the wiki information but are constantly flashing. It could also be a power supply going bad. If they are always flashing. The power supply maybe going bad. I had a unit doing the same thing and a replacement supply fixed it. Supply may have enough power to keep it sort of running but the reboot kept the supply going on and off. There are also other posts here where the supply was the problem. If your supply has an LED on it. It maybe flashing if the supply is cycling on and off or it has too low an output. The blue power on LED is run directly from the ISY994i internal supply. It should be on all the time. If it is also flashing another reason the wall wart is probably gone. ISY994i has a input range of 5VDC to 30VDC. Center pin positive. Most here go for a 12VDC 1A or 2A. When I looked UDI has a 12VDC 2A replacement on their sales pages. Mine had a 5.5mm barrel with a 2.1mm pin.

The photo you posted yesterday. Is the back of the EZICOMM used for the EZIO8SA correct? The FCC tested label on the back, the two prong AC Pins, factory reset beeps and address showing in your EZIO8SAAdd.txt match the photo's label. Would indicate you have one built on the 2413 base PLM assembly. So it is subject to the same power supply capacitors issues many of us have fought with for years. The cable in the box will allow you to test the EZICOMM with DockLight Scripting. The EZIO8SA would need the cable modified. Because the send and receive signals are reversed between the EZIO8SA and EZICOMM. Smartenit still has some of the cables on their sales site. https://smartenit.com/shop/plm-serial-cable/ I had a chance to look at the information the EZIO8SA sends to its PLM/EZICOMM. It sets the ID to 07 40, another command turns off the Set LED on the interface, then turns it back on and resets the configuration to disable the Set Button from doing local linking. So when you power it up part of the startup should flash the EZICOMM LED from on to off and back on.

More information in this thread and the PLM.ptp program. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/37499-polisy-doesnt-boot-if-connected-to-powered-insteon-plm/#comment-344167 Docklight Scripting is on this web site. Evaluation copy is free to try. https://docklight.de/downloads/

The "PLM.ptp" program for DockLight Scripting Evaluation program should have all the setting in it already. Except maybe the COM port if not 1. In that case you pick Tools, Project Settings and change the COM port number. It may ask to save changes but it will not as the evaluation version has a few features disabled like save and print.

I would add one more item. The power supplies used by the ISY994i have some reports of them failing. I have had a few from the older ISY99i and ISY994i. The ISY994i has a large voltage range input. 5VDC to 30VDC. I have had original 5V DC 500mA to 5VDC 1 Amp units. UDI sells a replacement 12VDC 2 Amp on their sales site. 12VDC 1 Amp or 2 Amp should be a good way to go. Especially if you have a ZWave board installed.

I did a test. With an early version EZIO8SA, powered by a 12V wall wart, 2413S V1.0 PLM. Network style cable between the 2413S and EZIO8SA. Powered the PLM connected to the EZIO8SA first. Then turned on the EZIO8SA. The EZIO8SA sent some data to the PLM and its set led flashed a few times. Added it to my ISY994i. Auto found it as a 07 04 EZIO8SA. To get how the outputs working. Their was an Options Screen. Change On Level On to 100% and Ramp Rate to 0.1 seconds Outputs changed on the screen as expected. I did not use a meter to check on the EZIO8SA. I am not too sure if I had to set the options but I believe I did. On the EZIO8SA I did have the AN1 and AN2 inputs grounded. Was recommended in their now gone Silmplehomenet forums. If you are not using them. They are high impedance and will pick up stray noise sometimes. With the AN1 and AN2 inputs randomly changing level.