Brian H

7-zip worked on mine. PKUNZIP only showed nothing in the in the backup zip file. That did have a file size. When you unzip it. You will find it has another zip file in it. Unzipping the second file. It will have data in a CONF sub folder.

Sounds encouraging. Let us know the results after a test period.

The Sensor and Magnet both have an arrow on them. For correct orientation . From your photo. I see the set button through the top cover. So you don't have to take it off to push it. That is the later 2843-222. The my ISY994i calls it a 2441. When I added one for a test.

It is a sealed magnetic reed relay as mentioned earlier. Are the brackets metal? Steel or any other metal a magnet attracts? The Magnet and Sensor look like they are mounted on metal brackets. That can effect how things work and the RF transmission distance to an Insteon RF receiver. The LED on the sensor. Should flash each time the magnet turns the sensor on or off. As a test. You can connect a switch to the external switch input of the sensor. Leaving the magnet away from the sensor. Then open and close the external test switch and see if it sends more reliably.

I did read your posts. Sorry my post was not clear. My statement was meant to say. They function the first time OK and again after a few cycles. If you can see them. Does the LED flash on the module even when the messages are missing?

I looked at the Quick Guide for the 2421 and full manual for the new part number 2843-222. It seems that module doesn't have a communications test. So that is out. Is the two pin jumper in the sensors board On or Off? When Off it sends an On to Scene 1 and an Off to Scene 2. From your findings of OK first time and intermittent the next times. I would think the jumper is on but I figured I would ask any way. The module is not mounted on metal is it or obstructions between the module and a module receiving the RF commands? Manual indicates up to 150 Feet with no interference or obstructions in the RF path.

Battery operated Insteon Module. Do go into a power saving mode. To save the battery's life. Where it will not respond to a query from the ISY994i. When you ether open or close it. It should wake up and send the Open or Closed message. It sounds like you have poor communications. How far away is a Dual Band Module to receive the modules message. Have you done the communications tests built into the Dual Band module receiving the RF signal and other Dual Band Modules or the PLM?

Let us know how it goes. As pointed out. The detector you linked to was a Voltage Detector.

The 2450 I/OLinc has a 5 volt sensing signal on it. When you pull it to Ground the Sensor Input is ON. It is not designed to have an external voltage applied to it. Putting an external voltage on it could cause problems. If you have a voltage sensor that gives a dry closure to the 2450's Sensor Input to Ground. That should work.

The lamps are hard wired not plugged in? The Micro Dimmers Sense Wires can't be connected together and opened back up to control the connected load. The Sense 1 wire is connected to the AC Line to activate it and disconnect the Sense 1 Wire to turn it off. You can see the connections in the full users manual. Available on the Smarthome sales page if you have not downloaded it yet. So your wiring would be different than you thought it would be. AC Line to one of the Local Switches terminals and out to the Line Input on the Micro Dimmer. Neutral to the Micro Dimmers Neutral. Other terminal of the Local Switch to Sense 1 of the Micro Dimmer and cap Sense 2 of the Micro Dimmer.

You may find some of this upgrade to a ISY994i from an ISY99i information helpful. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-994i_Series:Migrating_To_Your_ISY-994i

Glad you have it working. Even with a tricky fake a snow event.

No LED on the I/OLInc after factory reset. Power supply flaky and can't even restart correctly. If you are handy. I can see what the later revisions have in them for capacitors. Are yours early revisions? I have from original V1.0 to V2.3 I/OLincs. The capacitors between them is different. One possibility is there power supplies where getting weak and the power interruption. Pushed them over the edge.

That is a good sign. You are getting closer to seeing if it works with snow or simulating snow.

The one you factory reset. You already did a power cycle reset. On the off chance some of the others are just locked up from some power line garbage. You may want to do a power cycle reset on them. If you have not done so.

If you want to see if the wiring is OK. With the I2+ is to the +24V of the device. I2- is to the devices White Switched signal. As a test you can temporarily disconnect the I2- from the White wire and connect it to the -24 volt Black. That should turn On the I2 signal in the EZIO2X4. Thank you for the devices purpose. Now that we know it is a snow sensor your findings maybe right. Not cold or wet enough would keep the sensor seeing a no snow condition and the EXIO2X4 I2 input Off. Your tests with the water and freeze spray may show it is working properly and detecting snow is needed to turn its output on.

IMHO any device that has to be kept cold to work. Is poorly designed or defective. I personally would be returning it or asking the manufacturer to fix it right so it worked in normal temperatures and I don't need a constant spray of freeze spray to make it work. What are you going to do. Constantly spray it with freeze spray to get it's readings? When you want to use it. You also still didn't tell us what it is and what is supposed to be doing. Kind of hard to troubleshoot if you don't know what you are trying to diagnose. When you get your freeze spray and freeze it. Let us know what you find out.

The fact more than one has stopped working is odd. Though Murphy's Law does rear itself from time to time. The I/OLinc has the same small switching IC as the famous 2413 PLM. Depending on its hardware version. It could have a few different capacitor choices in it. As they tried to fix the supply dying thing. When you factory reset the one I/OLinc did its LED and buzzer act as it normally does with a factory reset? Power line only. I wounder if some type of power line surge hit them and did something to the modules power supply or power line interface circuit.

What is the device? I would suspect the device itself. If it need to be kept cold enough with freeze spray or it is intermittent or unresponsive at all. If the devices output is not a mechanical relay but a solid state switch. That could possibly be a factor.

I thought you said input two was working when wired to the new devices schematic. In your September 12 post. Your Wednesday post must have been where you updated the status to not reliable. The wiring in the forums schematic will not work as both + and - 24Volts are needed on the I2 terminals. ELA gave you a great set to tests. If it worked intermittently meter tests of the On and Off voltages will give a good indication of what maybe the problem. Do you know if the switch in the device is a mechanical type. That sometimes can get intermittent? How far away from the EZIO2X4 is the new device and what gauge wire are you using?

I missed the difference between the Devices.pdf and the Forum.pdf files. You had it correct in the New Devices.PDF and I thought you said it was OK. Go back and rewire it to the New Devices.PDF. Forum.PDF is wrong. I2+ to the RED +24V in the device. I2- to the White switched signal out from the device.

Hope this may help. Though it may confuse things. The Isolated Inputs use a Opto Coupler for the input. It looks like a small 8 pin IC. When you put a +DC voltage on one of its + inputs through an internal current limiting resistor and a -DC on one its - Input. An LED inside the module turns on. The light from the LED turns on a Photo Transistor inside the coupler. That signals the internal electronics of the EZIO2X4 the Input is On. The External input voltage never gets directly connected to the EXIO2X4 electronics so it is isolated from the outside world. The Analog Inputs are directly connected to the EZIO2X4s electronics. So it can use a limited voltage range input and outside noise and garbage can get into it.

The schematic is correct. Using the +5V for sensing the I1 connections and the devices +24V for sensing the I2 connections. Isolated inputs use an opto isolator component. To completely isolate the modules electronics from the outside world. To turn it On. You have to put +5VDC to +30VDC to the +I1 or +I2 terminal and the -I1 or -I2 terminal to the negative of the supply. Through a switch in your application. The DC current through the isolator input. Tells the modules electronics the input is On. In your case I1 is using the internal +5 supply so you have the GND on the module switched on and off to sense I1 state. I2 in your case has the external devices +24VDC on the I2+ and the I2- switched to the 24 volt supply of the external device. When I mentioned the GND connection in an earlier reply here. It was when you thought you would use the +5VDC of the module for the external device on I2. Forget that as you are using the external devices -24volt common reference. The I3 AN1 and I4 AN2 terminals are connected to the internal electronics. They are not isolated to the outside world and could be damaged by voltages or spikes on them. They are also high impedance and can pick up stray AC hum. That is why some say ground them if not in use.

The power LED on the ISY994i. Is powered directly from its wall wart power supply. If other things are still OK and the power LED is off. It is possible the LED circuit has an issue. We have seen messages that the wall wart supply was failing but the ISY994i also didn't boot correctly or do programs in its memory.

Looks nice. Thank you for sharing the finished product and assembly information.