Brian H

Smartenit makes a few different Insteon/X10 compatible modules. https://smartenit.com/product/iot4r/ One is a 4 relay with both NC and NO connections. The new replacement also has Wi-Fi in it. The earlier one with out the WI-Fi is sold out. I don't have one so I can't say how well the ISY994i can control and modify things. Like the I/OLinc it looks like a a power line only device.

The 2474DWH is a two wire switch that steals power through the load and need no Neutral power connection. Designed to only be used with Incandescent loads. So it will not work. Since it is a dimmer type and it will be incompatible with a inductive fan motor. Possible damage to the fans motor, the 2474DWK or both. Inductive loads should be controlled by a On/Off relay type switch.

Well there is one other way. I had to use on a 2430 ControLinc II tabletop module. As it is so old it didn't respond to a Start Linking. Also some of the of the Insteon modules they took the Insteon labels off relabeled with a X10 reference label and sold as X10 replacements. During X10's Bankruptcy and the time the new owners got product going again. Manually link it with the 2477D's Set Button to another module you have in your setup. Then do a Show Devices Links Table and Compare. On the module you manually linked the 2477D to. The extra link that the ISY994i does not know. Will be the address of the 2477D. Then you would have to remove the 2477D from the module. Manually or I believe if you do a Restore Device on the module you tested with. Will rewrite only the links it knows about . I did it slightly different. I added a new module to the setup and then manually linked the unknown device. Then a Show Devices Link Table and a compare.

Use Start Linking method. Then press the set button on the 2477D. After it is found. Use Stop Linking to finish the process.

I had issues with 2440 RemoteLinc remotes and the later 2413S PLM. Try this as it may help. Go as far away from the PLM as reasonable. So all the communications between the PLM and the 2440. Have to use a different Dual Band module to talk to each other. Before waking up the 2440 and starting the wanted changes writing.

Thank you for sharing your project. I am sure it will be a help to others.

Do you have the ISY994i Home Automation Cookbook? http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/The+ISY994+Home+Automation+Cookbook.pdf

Mine is My Lighting. I believe it was a carry over from back when I had an ISY26 and then an ISY99i.

I would think at one time. Many of us have gotten the address wrong. Like was that a 0 or a D. Some of the Mini Remotes had labels the addresses got worn off. I personally own one myself.

Do you have any idea where the ZWAVE message in the middle of the messages is coming from?

If you have a PRO version of ISY994i. Turning Off Automatic Updates to battery operated devices. Then write to them individually. May work.

Oh well. I too thought I had a good find.

Smart Home Products. Is showing the Blank White KPL buttons along with a few other items like KPL color change kits and LED light pipes for Switchlincs, on their web site store. https://www.smarthome-products.com/p-1764-2401bt10-blank-10-button-set-for-keypadlinc-white.aspx

An UPS may effect the power line signals. I also have a Portable Air Conditioner. That signal sucks power line signals. In the age of Dual Band Modules. Insteon RF may cover the setup fine. It would effect someone like me. As I still have a majority of the original power line only Insteon Modules in use. As I also have X10 addresses in mine that many present models have eliminated. So Access Points are also still in my setup also.

If the PLM is on the same circuit as an UPS for the computing equipment. They can frequently absorb both X10 and Insteon power line signals. I have my UPS on the filtered bottom outlet of a FilterLinc and the PLM in the unfiltered pass through outlet on the front.

Any new or moved electronic devices. Around the time things changed? From your second test run. It sounds like you have a signal sucker or power line noise maker or a phase coupling issue. If you have an electric stove or electric dryer. They use 220 VAC and it you turn one On and the X10 gets better to areas with issues. You may have a phase coupling issue. If you have an X10 phase coupler in the system now. It may have failed. I have not seen any PLM X10 issues reported lately. I do have a 2456S3 ApplianceLinc that got X10 signal deaf but Insteon still works. Saw your mention of the firmware maybe not supporting X10 correctly. In another post. I was using X10 with v4.7.3 and v4.8.0 is supposed to have only disabled the Climate Module that was discontinued.

Do the Orbit sprinklers have low voltage AC controls? From what I can gather. The EZFlora has small triac's to control the valves and they need an AC voltage source. A model number of the Orbit you want to control. Would help in finding a solution.

Even at 100% on level. There is a short distortion of the AC power around the Zero Crossing. That may or may not effect the bulb or the bulbs electronics will not play nice with the dimmers. I would do a test of the exact bulb model if I wanted to try it and observe for unexpected results. If I wanted to try the mixture.

The EZIO2x4's GND is the reference for its 5 volt power supply. It is an isolated ground for internal use. It does not connect to the ground on the power line input or any other ground. When you are using the switched output on the device you are using. You have to have its common connection for the output switch and the GND of the EZIO2x4 tied together so the switch can be read.

You need two wires from the device to the EZIO2x4. If you are using the I2 inputs. +5 to I2+. I2- to the white wire on the device. EZIO2x4 GND terminal to the control circuits Black Common.

If you want to totally isolate the input. As the EZIO2x4 can accept up to a 30 Volt DC input. I2(I1)+ to the +24VDC. I2(I1)- to the third wire that connects to the 24 volt common when On.

Is the switch dry contact? Where both terminals are not referenced directly to the 24 volt supply? If the control signal switches to the 24 volt common or is +24 volts in one position and 0 volts in the other position. We may have to think on this a little more. Let us know if the third wire connects to the common 24 volt supply when activated. If the switch is a Dry Contact type. I2(I1)+ to EZIO2x4 5volts. I2(I1)- to one of the switches terminals. The other switches terminal to the EZIO2x4 GND Ground terminal should work. If the switch connects to the 24 volt common when On. I2(I1)+ to EZIO2x4 5 volts. I2(I1)- to the switches third wire for the switch. GND terminal on the EZIO2x4 to the 24 volt common should work.

No they are not added to the ISY setup. All you do is plug them in. Use the built in 4 tap/communications tests. To verify at least one other Access Point or Dual Band Module can communicate with it and on the same or opposite phase of the power into the home. Revision 1 white LED and Revision 2 Green/Red LED. The receiving Access Point's flash patterns are different. If they are any revision 2 Access Points. They are built on the same base board as the 2413 PLM. With the same power supply issues. I had both of mine get flaky until rebuilt.

Was much heavier and it may have a pass through outlet on the front cover? Sounds like the original EZIO2x4 was built on the Dual Band 2413 base board and the new one is on the older power line only 2412 base board. The 2412 base board used a real power transformer and was heavier. Not a switching supply like the 2413 base board. Like many here. They had issues with the power supplies on the 2413 base board and bought 2412 base boards from Smarthome. The original Smartenit (Simplehomenet) modules started out on 2412 base board then for awhile they used 2413 base boards.

The manual says it has Local Control. Normally if the module is Off. Toggling the loads built in switch from On to Off and back On. The module will turn back On with out you needing an Insteon command to turn it On. Some LED light bulbs and other loads can falsely trigger some Local Controls. Did you get random changes with a standard light bulb. Any noise makers on the same circuit?