Brian H

I remember Radio Shack modules. I still have earlier Insteon modules that could have an X10 address added to them and I still use an X10 16 address palm pad to control them. Though the ISY994i does not follow the changes. It does sound like the controller has issues.

No click most likely is the internal relay not going on and off. If the one clicking does not control the purple output wires. It may have failed. If you are real careful you could measure each purple to a safety ground. Should be roughly 120VAC from each purple wire to ground an 220 VAC purple to purple.

You maybe able to use the Link a RemoteLinc 2. Choice in the Link Menu. With a new name. Then click on the old module listed in the Administrative Console and pick replace with choice. Using the now remotes name you gave it. It should change the links in the modules it controls and any of them in the Administrative Console. If it is in a folder it may have to be moved first. It also has to be awake for changes to be made. I did see a repair post on the Smarthome site I believe. The remote was popped open and a replacement battery was soldered in to the battery connection pads.

The folks on the X10 Forums. Also have had good results with the Dimming Stabilizer. With their two wire dimmers.

The UDI WKI has all kinds of videos and documentation you will find interesting and helpful. Along with all the very knowledgeable members here. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page After a factory reset of the modules and then add them into the Administrative Console. As you write programs. The controller will do all the linking between the modules and the controller. Along with any links between module if they can control each other. After you get it running. You can get the controllers info and see if it has the PRO or other optional module in it.

Serial port board may have a problem. I have seen a few reports by Smarthome they also has some issues with the serial chip. Revision 2.3 has a new chip and 2.4 a whole updated serial bard. Maybe you got the board plugged in with a bent pin or damaged a plated through hole mounting one of the capacitors. So both sides of the board are missing a connection.

Make sure the two TTL signals are not connected to anything.

One way to disable the +12V is take the F1 fuse off of the 2412S serial port daughter board. No cable mods needed. The +12 sill is used to power the internal serial or USB port daughter board. On both a 2412 and 2413 PLM.

You may find more information here. https://coil32.net/design/color-marking.html I looked at a SynchroLinc. Mine has three round style coils. On top Brown then Black on the one side Red and the other side looks like Silver. Like the ones in your photo. I would think all three would read close to each other. Unless the connected circuitry effected it. I would check for the proper entry in the PLM database as we have seen messages missed if the PLM does not have the link in it. Also it is power line only so maybe a noise or signal absorber recently added to the home.

They are small coils or inductors. The dots are the value of the part. I have never seen one go bad. Measure them with a meter and see if they have resistance. Since it is a Smarthome product I always suspect the filter caps. Especially if it has a LINK354 switching supply on it. The photo is maybe an Imeter Solo or Synchro Linc? You may also want to look at the current sensing shunt on the Neutral Output from the board to the outlet. If it is completely dead. There is a safety fuse in the shrink tubing. From the AC Line input fuse to the AC Line input to the board.

The 2412S has a liner transformer style power supply. It also has unregulated +12VDC on the serial port connection. You may find you ISY994i runs just fine with no external wall wart and a 2412S. If you have both. The ISY994i has a diode on each power input so only the higher of the two voltages is powering it. The 2413S has a switching type power supply and had capacitors not rated for switching power supply use. Until the recently released revisions. They where known for failures. From the switching frequency used by the supply (200KHz.) and the temperature probably didn't help either. Later ones also have a better serial port interface chip and some signal protection on the serial port signals.

Factory reset has two procedures. Depending on early or later design. Pull the set button out. To open the Air Gap switch in it and wait at least ten seconds. Then push it all the way in. On the earlier ones with no internal beeper. Hold it in for thee seconds. Then release the set button. The ones with the beeper. Keep holding the set button in until the beeper stops beeping then release the set button.

Over the years. There have been a few reports of poor serial port pin connections.

The sensor closes the Sensor Input on the I/OLinc. Sounds like you traced the problem. As a added test you may try and disconnect the freezer sensor connection to the I/OLinc and see if things change. The Sensor LED on the I/OLInc may also be flickering. The input sensor circuit is not too tolerant of noise.

If it is a SwitchLinc dual band switch. Dimmer or Relay type. The RF receiver antenna is on the back side of the switch and possibly not reliably reaching the problem switch. Especially if the antennas are not aligned to each other.

The early production ISY-994i had a different label setup and did not cover any of the case mounting screws. I don't remember seeing any information indicating it was now covered. Glad you found it.

The TTL signals are +5 volt logic. Not buffered, can be damage if connected incorrectly and possibly stop the normally used RS232 signals from working correctly. The TTL signals are not in the older 2412S PLM and it included the same cable in the box.. That cable was used with many of the even older devices. Smarthome liked to keep using the same cable and basic pin outs. You should be fine with the cable in the box. Just ignore the TTL signals as not needed.

One more tip that may help. On the X10 forums. Jeff from JV Digital Engineering. Found a cheap Chinese cell phone charger. That emitted all kinds of noise to the power lines. On the exact 120KHz X10 power line signal frequency.

That was the way mine was. Paddle assembly removed. Tape over the tact switches access holes in the top cover. What looked like a wooden stick was included so you could push on the set switch. The mounting tabs may have been removed but not too sure on that

If the modules did not have an X10 code programmed into them. It may not be the problem. The later revision modules did not officially have an X10 capability. Though some still did. That would be only one House Code and I see more than one House Code in your posted log entries. I don't know if a factory reset and reloading would do anything. Is it possible to disable a module with the Air Gap switch if it is a Switchlinc and see if anything changes or unplug a module and see if anything changes. If you have a module that can be set to flash its LED on power line traffic. You may see it flashing when normally nothing is being controlled. Do you know if anything is only running at those hours? Like some things are only run at night if their is a different power charges depending on time of day. You didn't have a new Smart Electric Meter installed recently. Long shot as I know of one particular protocol that caused X10 strangeness. Most where just fine. Sorry about the 1111 references. That would be all 1 bits in the X10 messages. I was thinking of power line noise looking like that

Can they live in an Insteon module. Maybe if they are the real early ones that also could have an X10 Primary address added to them. Though I doubt it in this case. As the House Codes look random and not one programmed into a early module. Anything new electronically or moved in the home? Maybe some kind of electrical noise on the power lines being see as X10 messages. House code J is a 1111 and Status Request is a 1111.

If possible v2.3 or higher would be best. I know for the serial v2.3 it also has a better serial interface chip. With a better ESD rating. V2.4 had a new serial daughter board that also had some signal protection on the two serial signals. I vaguely remember in the Insteon Forums. It was mentioned that one one revision was only on the serial model and was not on a USB version. But that number was skipped to keep both revisions matching for later versions.

The 2413U PLM and 2413S PLM usually had the same main board and a different daughter board. So the same choice of capacitor should be in both version. I know the revision 2.3 2413S had a new capacitor series in it. That was made to be in switching power supplies.

The serial interface chip is on the daughter board. Along with the link database memory chip.

I am not an expert on the firmware. As far as I know. Only a few bytes are different. So it reports the correct Category and Subcategory ID when interrogated and only the subcategory is different. I don't believe the ISY994i used the ID. Others here have successfully put a serial board from a 2413S into a 2413U and had it work. I did a real crude test with a 2413S serial board in a 2412U. Very basic tests with typed in commands seemed to respond correctly. Very possible some combinations where not happy. Not sure about the ones originally sold with purchased version of HouseLinc that required a PLM with a H suffix or it didn't work. On the puling out a plated through hole from the top and bottom runs. There are some on the positive leads also. I tore one out and had to trace it out and add a few wire jumpers. I did see something from Smarthome on they occasionally had the serial chip damaged by static discharge. V2.3 changed the serial interface chip with one with a better ESD rating and V2.4 a redesigned serial daughter board with a protection network on the two serial signals along with the better interface chip.