Brian H

If your last PLM was a Version 2.5 (The latest reported) or 2.4. They have new capacitors rated to be in a switching power supply and new Daughter Board with ESD protection for the I/O signals and serial chip. V2.3 the new capacitors and older daughter board. It sounds like you could have some noise or signal sucking on the power lines at times. Anything new electronically in the house or maybe moved an existing device to a new location?

I too would recommend all your Insteon linking and scene setup be done through the ISY994i interface with its 2413S PLM. If you want some information on how Insteon works. The Insteon White paper is still available. http://www.insteon.it/documentation/insteon_details.pdf Developers Guide. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/developer-guide-022009-en.pdf PLM. http://cache.insteon.com/pdf/INSTEON_Modem_Developer's_Guide_20071012a.pdf Some of the information in the files maybe dated. Like X10 support. Many of the latest revision modules removed X10 support. The X10 two wire dimmers stole power through the load. Except for the Insteon two wire dimmer for incandescent bulbs only. The wall switches need a Neutral power connection. So you may want to see if you have a Neutral in the locations where you want an Insteon Switch.

If you want to use the Motion Sensor II or Siren Modules to name two. Not supported in the 4.x firmware.

No it is made to go between the two incoming power lines. Usually around 220VAC. To couple the power line signal from one line to the other line. It does not pass the AC voltage between the two lines or from one of its leads to the other lead. It is a passive device and the ISY994i will not see it.

Diode is also on the ELK 912. I had thought they where going to try a plain 12VDC relay not an assembled board with protection.

If you go for a 12 volt relay it would be wise. To have a reverse polarity diode across the relays coil. To suppress the voltage spike when the relay is turned off. The ELK-912 has the diode on it as part of the assembly.

The LED may have a resistor in series with it to limit the current through the LED to a safe level. How it is connected and where you try a relay may be determined by which side of the resistor you use or if it will not effect how bright the LED flashes. I would also not use a relay that had too high a coil current needed to operate it. Maybe a small electronic assembly. That drives a relay and triggered by a application of a voltage to its control input.

7-zip worked on mine. PKUNZIP only showed nothing in the in the backup zip file. That did have a file size. When you unzip it. You will find it has another zip file in it. Unzipping the second file. It will have data in a CONF sub folder.

Sounds encouraging. Let us know the results after a test period.

The Sensor and Magnet both have an arrow on them. For correct orientation . From your photo. I see the set button through the top cover. So you don't have to take it off to push it. That is the later 2843-222. The my ISY994i calls it a 2441. When I added one for a test.

It is a sealed magnetic reed relay as mentioned earlier. Are the brackets metal? Steel or any other metal a magnet attracts? The Magnet and Sensor look like they are mounted on metal brackets. That can effect how things work and the RF transmission distance to an Insteon RF receiver. The LED on the sensor. Should flash each time the magnet turns the sensor on or off. As a test. You can connect a switch to the external switch input of the sensor. Leaving the magnet away from the sensor. Then open and close the external test switch and see if it sends more reliably.

I did read your posts. Sorry my post was not clear. My statement was meant to say. They function the first time OK and again after a few cycles. If you can see them. Does the LED flash on the module even when the messages are missing?

I looked at the Quick Guide for the 2421 and full manual for the new part number 2843-222. It seems that module doesn't have a communications test. So that is out. Is the two pin jumper in the sensors board On or Off? When Off it sends an On to Scene 1 and an Off to Scene 2. From your findings of OK first time and intermittent the next times. I would think the jumper is on but I figured I would ask any way. The module is not mounted on metal is it or obstructions between the module and a module receiving the RF commands? Manual indicates up to 150 Feet with no interference or obstructions in the RF path.

Battery operated Insteon Module. Do go into a power saving mode. To save the battery's life. Where it will not respond to a query from the ISY994i. When you ether open or close it. It should wake up and send the Open or Closed message. It sounds like you have poor communications. How far away is a Dual Band Module to receive the modules message. Have you done the communications tests built into the Dual Band module receiving the RF signal and other Dual Band Modules or the PLM?

Let us know how it goes. As pointed out. The detector you linked to was a Voltage Detector.

The 2450 I/OLinc has a 5 volt sensing signal on it. When you pull it to Ground the Sensor Input is ON. It is not designed to have an external voltage applied to it. Putting an external voltage on it could cause problems. If you have a voltage sensor that gives a dry closure to the 2450's Sensor Input to Ground. That should work.

The lamps are hard wired not plugged in? The Micro Dimmers Sense Wires can't be connected together and opened back up to control the connected load. The Sense 1 wire is connected to the AC Line to activate it and disconnect the Sense 1 Wire to turn it off. You can see the connections in the full users manual. Available on the Smarthome sales page if you have not downloaded it yet. So your wiring would be different than you thought it would be. AC Line to one of the Local Switches terminals and out to the Line Input on the Micro Dimmer. Neutral to the Micro Dimmers Neutral. Other terminal of the Local Switch to Sense 1 of the Micro Dimmer and cap Sense 2 of the Micro Dimmer.

You may find some of this upgrade to a ISY994i from an ISY99i information helpful. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-994i_Series:Migrating_To_Your_ISY-994i

Glad you have it working. Even with a tricky fake a snow event.

No LED on the I/OLInc after factory reset. Power supply flaky and can't even restart correctly. If you are handy. I can see what the later revisions have in them for capacitors. Are yours early revisions? I have from original V1.0 to V2.3 I/OLincs. The capacitors between them is different. One possibility is there power supplies where getting weak and the power interruption. Pushed them over the edge.

That is a good sign. You are getting closer to seeing if it works with snow or simulating snow.

The one you factory reset. You already did a power cycle reset. On the off chance some of the others are just locked up from some power line garbage. You may want to do a power cycle reset on them. If you have not done so.

If you want to see if the wiring is OK. With the I2+ is to the +24V of the device. I2- is to the devices White Switched signal. As a test you can temporarily disconnect the I2- from the White wire and connect it to the -24 volt Black. That should turn On the I2 signal in the EZIO2X4. Thank you for the devices purpose. Now that we know it is a snow sensor your findings maybe right. Not cold or wet enough would keep the sensor seeing a no snow condition and the EXIO2X4 I2 input Off. Your tests with the water and freeze spray may show it is working properly and detecting snow is needed to turn its output on.

IMHO any device that has to be kept cold to work. Is poorly designed or defective. I personally would be returning it or asking the manufacturer to fix it right so it worked in normal temperatures and I don't need a constant spray of freeze spray to make it work. What are you going to do. Constantly spray it with freeze spray to get it's readings? When you want to use it. You also still didn't tell us what it is and what is supposed to be doing. Kind of hard to troubleshoot if you don't know what you are trying to diagnose. When you get your freeze spray and freeze it. Let us know what you find out.

The fact more than one has stopped working is odd. Though Murphy's Law does rear itself from time to time. The I/OLinc has the same small switching IC as the famous 2413 PLM. Depending on its hardware version. It could have a few different capacitor choices in it. As they tried to fix the supply dying thing. When you factory reset the one I/OLinc did its LED and buzzer act as it normally does with a factory reset? Power line only. I wounder if some type of power line surge hit them and did something to the modules power supply or power line interface circuit.