Brian H

The Access Points where built on the 2412 base board with a separate RF daughter board for any V1 versions. The V2 where on a 2413 main board and used the built in power line and RF feature built in to it. You most likely would have to change the firmware for PLM use and add a serial port daughter board.

The HUB has a power line and RF transmitter and receiver in it. Uses the AC cord to connect to the 120V power source. Along with a Network Interface. Not a serial or USB port. As for the 2413UH. As far as I can see it is a standard USB PLM. With a different subcategory number. So the paid version of Houselinc. Knew you bought it for the program and did not use a standardized one and not paid the price for it. It also worked with the free version of Houselinc and is in the configuration file. Listed as a Powerlinc USB Modem.

I have also seen features mentioned in the Developers Group before it was suddenly removed. That didn't work correctly or implemented not to what was published. Siren and Alert modules where two of them, UDI had to do its best to implement as Smartlabs was totally silent on them.

If the Nokia products have not ended up as also scrapped. They seem to have used the Insteon protocol. At least having the same six digit ID number. Maybe they have licensed or want to purchase the Insteon Protocol

Thank you for the information. This doesn't look good for things like replacement PLM modules or the future of my continued Insteon use.

As of this morning. Both the Smarthome and Insteon forums are still off line. Years ago under the old management. One day with out notice the Insteon Developers Group just vanished. With no advanced warnings. For the present. The main Insteon web site can still be accessed.

I remember Radio Shack modules. I still have earlier Insteon modules that could have an X10 address added to them and I still use an X10 16 address palm pad to control them. Though the ISY994i does not follow the changes. It does sound like the controller has issues.

No click most likely is the internal relay not going on and off. If the one clicking does not control the purple output wires. It may have failed. If you are real careful you could measure each purple to a safety ground. Should be roughly 120VAC from each purple wire to ground an 220 VAC purple to purple.

You maybe able to use the Link a RemoteLinc 2. Choice in the Link Menu. With a new name. Then click on the old module listed in the Administrative Console and pick replace with choice. Using the now remotes name you gave it. It should change the links in the modules it controls and any of them in the Administrative Console. If it is in a folder it may have to be moved first. It also has to be awake for changes to be made. I did see a repair post on the Smarthome site I believe. The remote was popped open and a replacement battery was soldered in to the battery connection pads.

The folks on the X10 Forums. Also have had good results with the Dimming Stabilizer. With their two wire dimmers.

The UDI WKI has all kinds of videos and documentation you will find interesting and helpful. Along with all the very knowledgeable members here. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page After a factory reset of the modules and then add them into the Administrative Console. As you write programs. The controller will do all the linking between the modules and the controller. Along with any links between module if they can control each other. After you get it running. You can get the controllers info and see if it has the PRO or other optional module in it.

Serial port board may have a problem. I have seen a few reports by Smarthome they also has some issues with the serial chip. Revision 2.3 has a new chip and 2.4 a whole updated serial bard. Maybe you got the board plugged in with a bent pin or damaged a plated through hole mounting one of the capacitors. So both sides of the board are missing a connection.

Make sure the two TTL signals are not connected to anything.

One way to disable the +12V is take the F1 fuse off of the 2412S serial port daughter board. No cable mods needed. The +12 sill is used to power the internal serial or USB port daughter board. On both a 2412 and 2413 PLM.

You may find more information here. https://coil32.net/design/color-marking.html I looked at a SynchroLinc. Mine has three round style coils. On top Brown then Black on the one side Red and the other side looks like Silver. Like the ones in your photo. I would think all three would read close to each other. Unless the connected circuitry effected it. I would check for the proper entry in the PLM database as we have seen messages missed if the PLM does not have the link in it. Also it is power line only so maybe a noise or signal absorber recently added to the home.

They are small coils or inductors. The dots are the value of the part. I have never seen one go bad. Measure them with a meter and see if they have resistance. Since it is a Smarthome product I always suspect the filter caps. Especially if it has a LINK354 switching supply on it. The photo is maybe an Imeter Solo or Synchro Linc? You may also want to look at the current sensing shunt on the Neutral Output from the board to the outlet. If it is completely dead. There is a safety fuse in the shrink tubing. From the AC Line input fuse to the AC Line input to the board.

The 2412S has a liner transformer style power supply. It also has unregulated +12VDC on the serial port connection. You may find you ISY994i runs just fine with no external wall wart and a 2412S. If you have both. The ISY994i has a diode on each power input so only the higher of the two voltages is powering it. The 2413S has a switching type power supply and had capacitors not rated for switching power supply use. Until the recently released revisions. They where known for failures. From the switching frequency used by the supply (200KHz.) and the temperature probably didn't help either. Later ones also have a better serial port interface chip and some signal protection on the serial port signals.

Factory reset has two procedures. Depending on early or later design. Pull the set button out. To open the Air Gap switch in it and wait at least ten seconds. Then push it all the way in. On the earlier ones with no internal beeper. Hold it in for thee seconds. Then release the set button. The ones with the beeper. Keep holding the set button in until the beeper stops beeping then release the set button.

Over the years. There have been a few reports of poor serial port pin connections.

The sensor closes the Sensor Input on the I/OLinc. Sounds like you traced the problem. As a added test you may try and disconnect the freezer sensor connection to the I/OLinc and see if things change. The Sensor LED on the I/OLInc may also be flickering. The input sensor circuit is not too tolerant of noise.

If it is a SwitchLinc dual band switch. Dimmer or Relay type. The RF receiver antenna is on the back side of the switch and possibly not reliably reaching the problem switch. Especially if the antennas are not aligned to each other.

The early production ISY-994i had a different label setup and did not cover any of the case mounting screws. I don't remember seeing any information indicating it was now covered. Glad you found it.

The TTL signals are +5 volt logic. Not buffered, can be damage if connected incorrectly and possibly stop the normally used RS232 signals from working correctly. The TTL signals are not in the older 2412S PLM and it included the same cable in the box.. That cable was used with many of the even older devices. Smarthome liked to keep using the same cable and basic pin outs. You should be fine with the cable in the box. Just ignore the TTL signals as not needed.

One more tip that may help. On the X10 forums. Jeff from JV Digital Engineering. Found a cheap Chinese cell phone charger. That emitted all kinds of noise to the power lines. On the exact 120KHz X10 power line signal frequency.

That was the way mine was. Paddle assembly removed. Tape over the tact switches access holes in the top cover. What looked like a wooden stick was included so you could push on the set switch. The mounting tabs may have been removed but not too sure on that