aLf

Hey IndyMike &Guru's! Maybe a dumb question and should remember from my airplane mechanic's days. I know Watts=Volts X Amps, but here is my dumb. (I read your post Indy and am a bit confused as to the Wattage calc's. I'm not quite sure how the input/output Wattage works. I am installing a low voltage transformer ( 500 Watt, 12 Volt output) to run some landscape stuff. It will be controlled from a SWL. I "think" the SWL is OK for 500W and 13 Amps (chime in if not). The transformer has two circuits built in that are capable of carrying half each. My total load (in planning) is about 300 Watts worth of lights. Do I figure the load off 12 Volt or the 110 input? Obviously will make a big difference in Wattage. Thanks, aLf

ski2020: Just PM me and I'll arrange for you to get the code. I'm lso intersted in the DA setup as I also have DA. aLf

Maybe best to just make a scene with the SWL as controller, and the INL as a responder. Then to manually control, just switch on the SWL. In the "scene" for all the outdoor stuff, just include the SWL as an entry and the new INL and they both should come on at the same time. Initially I wanted to just plug the new transformer into the original outlet, but I think its probably too much amps for the SWL. aLf

Oberkc: Quick question. I have a SWL that controls an outlet (low voltage transformer). I'm adding another transformer for phase 2 of my landscape. In doing so, I plan t have on another 110 circuit an InlineLinc. Than INL will control another outlet. What I want to see happen is the original SWL when turned on, also be linked to the ne INL. What is the best way to do this? The original SWL is a part of a very complicated scene in which many other outdoor lights are set to pre-determined levels. My first thought was to just put the INL in the scene and when everything else came on, so would it. Problem is, sometimes I just turn on the low voltage SWL controlled transformer. If the new INL and that SWL aren't linked, I will only have phase 1 of the lv stuff come on. Thnaks, aLf

Has anyone done this kind of transformation (inc. to LED)? Where would I start looking for appropriate bulbs? These are the transformers I use. They are bullet proof. This company makes some really cool back lighting, mainly steps, etc. 500W ran me a bit over $200. http://www.robertssteplite.com/ http://www.robertssteplite.com/Websites/RSL/Files/Content/35040/Transformer%2012v%201-09.pdf aLf

Oberkc: Is there a source that I could look at to find what I need to convert everything over? What about the transformer. Do you need to do anything to it when you lessen the load? I'm all over converting. I just don't want to do it twice. I'm a sponge with info, so feel free to soak me with sources for the change-over. Thanks, aLf

Indy: Thanks. As always you have the "deep" answer. I have another transformer running the first edition of the system. It has worked well for a number of years. I will look at the amp draw for the new system and be sure it falls into that criteria. When shopping for the new fixtures (Kichler), I noted that almost everything I have is now outdated and being discontinued where they are switching over to LED's. One fixture that was 24.4 w, is now 4 w. At that rate, a guy could just about do the whole thing in a 500 w transformer. So wrapping this up, I assume that according to your info, as klong as the amps are less than 15 the SWL is OK? In this case Watts divided by 12 Volts = Amps? aLf

I'm adding a Low Voltage (magnetic) transformer for outdoor lighting. 110v to 12v. It is rated at 500w. The InlineLinc I ordered says 480w Max-15a. Question is that it is not an incandescent load, is it limited to the watts or amps? My layout calls for 400 watts worth of 25 watt bulbs. I'd like to expand the layout in time, but do not want to go over the 480 limit on the Inline. Does anyone have a good rule of thumb on this? Thanks, aLf

Has anyone run across an (inexpensive) thermometer that one could link in ISY. For various reasons, I hesitate to make the move to a thermostat to control my HVAC. THat said, I'd like to be able to have setpoints send me emails through ISY. What do all you Therm Guru's think would be the best way to go? Thanks, aLf

Rand: I'm not sure I can turn on a KPL button directly fro MobiLinc? Also is it OK to have the levels the same in both the scene and the KPL page? aLf

I'm having to rethink something similar. Found with MobiLinc. I have a scene that has several SWL controlled by a KPL. 99.9% of the time (until MobiLinc), I would just push the KPL to trigger the scene. If you go into ISY and look at the scene, all SWL have 100% on level and default eramp rates. The on levels for the SWL's is controlled and shows through the KPL button, i.e., 22%, 44%, Full, 52%, etc. I always had what I wanted until MobiLinc. Now if I trigger the scene through ML, I get every light on 100%. Is there a better way to create the scene and have it do what it does through the KPL push? Also if someone could post a fix for the (eventual) change to a SWL when the scene is running, i.e., Kitchen Ceiling is set to 42% in the scene and someone pushes the ceiling full on (esentially breaking the scene). Is there a way to have that switch go back to the scene called level (42%)? Thanks, aLf

Should anyone have any BB-HCM, 500 or 700 series Panasonic web-cameras. With the help of UDI, Burak and Wes of MobiLinc, life now has a stable and more importantly, an operational code that will control "Triggers" and other controls in these cameras. The 735 camera was a bit of a problem, but now with the push of a KPL button (or MobiLinc), I now can turn on / off the home / away scene and at the same time arm or disarm multiple cameras. No more pictures of my car driving up the driveway. There will be countless uses for this code as the Panasonic cameras are very robust in their features. All work through the CGI Transfer page. Panasonic provides free to users a nice (huge) .pdf file that explains all the functions. Now that we have this code I will incorporate it to pan / tilt the camera upon motion then switch lights on and off--all controlled from ISY. Anyone wanting this code, feel free to post and I'll get it to you. Thanks to everyone who helped getting this to finally work. aLf

Does the saving of an ISY backup cover settings in modules such as Network and Climate? Specifically will it save all codes written in the Network Module? Thanks, aLf

I just bought the MobiLinc App yesterday on a reccomendation. I'mm 150% satisfied. Works as advertised right out of the box. No bugs and Wes seems to be open for continual improvement. It's 20 bucks, you can't go wrong. aLf

Time has come to try one of the many iPhone App's for ISY. Could a few folks who have the different App's please post as to you feelings on them. The costs of all of them are very low so price is not the issue. What I want is number 1 a safe, secure interface. Then the options and ease of use become important. I have less than 50 Insteon units, but ISY and Insteon now controls my camera function as well. Thanks ahead of time for your input. aLf

sfhutchi: As I wrote above, so far I only trigger the camera by a program in ISY that runs my "AWAY" or "HOME" scene. That scene controls various lights and outlets around the house that I want to behave in different ways according to my being there or not. I also like to see any movement from my cameras. IN my Network Module I have code written that "POSTS" code over the net to these cameras. It is capable of posting on the 192 local network or across the web to other properties. What it does is turn off the motion sensors when I'm home (I was tired of driving up and seeing 100's of pictures of me), then back on when I'm away. Now I just turn the scene off when I'm driving up the driveway and the camera motion goes off as well. I kinda tore into Panasonic in my above post. I really don't think they have much support for what I consider a superb camera. They do provide a 100+ page document on what they refer to as CGI Transfer codes. These codes are the backbone of the camera function. They have done a super job with this document. You can do just about anything from the web to these cameras (some if not all is available in their GUI). As I sated though, multiple cameras require a lengthly amount of log-ins to several cameras. I would estimate that to do what needs to be done with my setup (now that I have the code figured out) takes less than a minute. When I figure out what iPhone app to buy that runs ISY, I will cut down the trigger time to seconds. If I do the same the long way through Panasonics GUI, it can take me 15-20 minutes! I've just broken the ice on this. I can see with enough people out there integrating cameras to their homes, ISY and UDI could make some great uses out of these cameras. I certainly can see something as simple as motion triggering a light, siren or any Insteon device. I don't know anything about some of the security systems (alarms), but certainly tie-ins could be done there as well. In addition to motion, there is sound and shock triggers. (The neighbors party gets too loud, triggers the yard lights, party quiets). (The temperature in the house goes below your threshold, turns on a light, moves the camera to the preset thermometer veiw and e-mails you a picture). (Driveway alarm triggers the camera to driveway veiw, zooms and send picture of mailman leaving while you're at work, megapixel gives perfect veiw of license plate). (Lake temperature sensor shows 70 degrees, Weather Module says the wind is less than 5 knots, turns camera toward the end of my dock clearly showing me downing a cold beer before setting out to waterski, http's picture to the ISY Forum for all to see). The 531 is a rock solid platform for starters, the 735 is a megapixel version with a bit more security. Either one has seen everything Mother Nature can throw at it in Northern Wisconsin. I like the 581 for indoors. It has a 20x optical zoom which can zoom easily a mile and see fine detail. Setup was zero problems once I installed a good router, I chose Draytek. I have fibre optic cable but they worked reasonably well with DSL. Sound is fantastic, you can hear conversation 100's of feet away. Hope this helps. aLf

I can finally put this camera trigger thing to rest. I have been wrestling with a "fix" for this for six months. I have asked the experts in the field, including "Customer No-Service" at Panasonic. The first thing Panasonic needs to do is study UDI and their Second-to-None customer satisfaction. I have learned more from Michel and his crew and the unbelievable following they have here on this forum. Now to the bottom of this issue. If you have Panasonic Webcams, you know that they have a robust collection of uses and available options. If you have one or maybe two of them there isn't a problem, simply go into the GUI and do your adjustments. The problem is in my setup, I utilize motion detection. Turning one detector on or off is no problem but a dozen cameras is a different story. A year ago ISY Forum Member, Burak, wrote code for the Panasonic 500 series cams. Inserted into the ISY Network Module it worked beautiful. Turn my Insteon "Away" scene on or off and the camera motion turns on or off. Technology enters. I purchased a handful of their new 700 series, megapixel cameras and the code won’t work. Long story longer it comes down to a security code called "random number". Back to Panasonic “Customer No-Service" and their canned answer that what I'm trying to do is unsupported. The answer was right there in the GUI, under the "Administrator" tab... CGI interface Allow setting changes Only disallow settings from browsers Do not allow setting changes Seems that by choosing “Allow setting changesâ€, does a workaround that lets the GUI accept calls from abroad. The “random number†still generates, but it does it internally, and then sets the trigger. Simple as that. So simple that after a dozen calls to Panasonic, nobody on their tech line even knew the above setting or that it could be done. As a matter of fact I was told what I was trying to do was not possible. I’m beginning to believe that when it comes to this electronic stuff, anything is possible. It surely is with the talent and knowledge found in this forum. I hope that this helps others. aLf

Hi Rand: I'm an old Wheeling boy as well, Dundee & Wolf, 18 years ago! Do you have any ideas on how to "capture" the code that is run in my cameras GUI. What I'm trying to accomplish is having ISY set the "Trigger" for motion on and off. Curerently ISY runs (perfectly) the trigger for the model 531, but I upgrade three cameras to 735 and the CGI Transfer code is different. I have access to the tech sheets and (think) I can get the new code written. BUT.... The code runs every time from their GUI and I can't figure out a way to capture the sent data, that would be so simple. If you can help, thanks. aLf

Michel: I have the original .zip that was created for the rule. I've tried to "unzip" it and no luck. I'll send you that and you can see what you can do. Then if and when I can figure out the new code, I'll need to know how to "rezip" it and import. I only wish I knew more about this stuff. Jets are much easier. I only need to know two things. 1) Keep the rubber side down and the painted side up, 2) Point it in the right direction and go like H**L! Thanks for the help. Tim

Michel: Thanks. I have tried that and there seems too be no way to cut what is written there. What I'd like to do is cut it, paste it in a text editor where I can compare word for word with (what I think is the code for the new camera). If I highlight the code and right mouse, there is no option, tried Alt-x as well. Tim

I have a program that was wriiten for me (camera triggers). The gentleman on this site who wrote it, sent it in a .zip format. That .zip was uplaoded into the Network Module. I can't figure out a way to cut it back out to an editor so I can re-write it. I also tried "unzipping" the original file, but it won't open in regular unzip/open all. Does anyone know how to do that? If I just write a new script in an editor, how do you then paste it into the Network Module? Thanks, aLf

Illusion: Thanks. So can you elaborate on how you're saving $$ ? Also, I have a ton of power outages (NO. WI), As long as the ISY comes back up, I assume the Venstar will as well? What kind of call outs will it, do just e-mail thru ISY? Which model is the best to have without programs? Thanks, aLf

What has been the best thermostat for use with ISY? Also because I have a Freeze Alarm installed at my house right now (2 thermostats), I'm hesitant to make the plunge to Insteon control of my HVAC. As with all the Insteon stuff there seems to have been much stumbling blocks in the therm's as well. I'm giving thought to just buying a thermostat to use as a "monitor" of my temperature. I'd appreciate input from all you testers who have been involved in this side of Insteon. This would eliminate one thermostat for me, but I have to have a warm fuzzy because of its importance. Thanks, aLf

Like every other issue, Michel is the man! Thanks for fixing it and sharing your precious time. aLf

I re-booted the iPhone this morning, no change. The password is the same as always and it isn't a password problem as I can get to the "scenes" and "devices" pages, but that is when the problem starts. Once into those pages, I get the error when trying to trigger the device or scene. Tim