I’ve been having an issue with my 2 outdoor floodlights. I have a three-way circuit to control them using Insteon DIMMERS. One switch is located in my kitchen and the other in the garage. One of the floodlights is a simple socket with an LED lamp and the other is a new integrated LED floodlight fixture.

The problem I am having is that there is occasional and sporadic flickering of BOTH fixtures. That leads me to believe it’s not the fixtures themselves, but something with the circuit or switches. The Insteon dimmers are many years old and I realize it’s probably better if I had used on/off switches instead of dimmers. I wonder if the problem I’m having is the dimmers are failing or the dimmers don’t like the LED fixtures. Not sure how to troubleshoot this so I’m considering purchasing two on/off Insteon switches and swapping them in place of the dimmers. Any other tips and tricks to troubleshoot this before I fire the parts cannon at it? The flickering lights make my house look haunted.

I had some flickering issue and found it to be that the Instron switch was adjacent to a dimmer in the switch box. Another solution may be to install these devices. https://www.insteon.com/collections/accessories/products/led-flicker-glow-eliminator

Not all LED lights work well with dimmers, even if you don't dim them. Is the fixture itself rated as dimmable? Many aren't.

One of the floods is a super cheap, old 2-headed fixture that you screw lamps into. For years i used regular lamps but now try and use LED lamps when possible. And realize LED lamps sometimes cause issues.

The other flood is brand new and seems to say is dimmable (by the way its a pretty well made item compared to box store garbage).

https://www.amplighting.com/amp-secure-twin-head-round-security-light-motion-sensor

Note that i am not trying to dim these, i just happened to use Insteon dimmers years ago and its always worked okay. I just wonder if swapping to On/Off might solve the issue.

Both switch locations are in multi-switch gangs with other insteon switches.

When i say flicker, its like they go on-off periodically. I thought it was when there was insteon traffic but alas no.

Wasn't aware of that LED flicker thingy. Yay more spending!

Even with new i3 paddles there can be flicker. Using on/off where dimming is not needed makes the problem go away. We have a master bath where I simplified multiple on off switches with multiple Insteon switches. Dimming is never used, so when they flickered, on/off fixed it.

If you have the eisy you could use the new i3 paddles. The advantage of i3 paddle is that you can configure it on-the-fly to dimmer or on/off... it does both.

Edited yesterday at 03:52 PM1 day by paulbates

5 minutes ago, paulbates said:

Even with new i3 paddles there can be flicker. Using on/off where dimming is not needed makes the problem go away. We have a master bath where I simplified multiple on off switches with multiple Insteon switches. Dimming is never used, so when they flickered, on/off fixed it.

If you have the eisy you could use the new i3 paddles. The advantage of i3 paddle is that you can configure it on-the-fly to dimmer or on/off... it does both.

Thanks. To be clear, you are suggesting that new i3 paddle switches (even though they can both dim or not dim) would possibly solve the issue if i configure them to work as on/off only?

Is there any reason to go with Insteon On/Off switches instead of the newer i3 paddle? Or vice versa? I have a houseload of insteon for many, many years. Just got my first few i3 devices that seem to work well (outlets). And a new PLM and EISY.

The i3 that can be set to dim or on off. Probably has a triac output and even at 100% on may or may not not work well with LED loads. We picked certain brand LED bulbs as some would flicker.

Edited yesterday at 06:16 PM1 day by Brian H

Your 3 way switches are "virtual", meaning that only one is actually connected to the load. The other switch simply communicates with the load connected switch to turn your lights on.

Bottom line, you only "have" to replace the load connected switch. I3, relay, your choice. .... Or you could swap your current dimmers to see if the triac is dying on the current one connected to the load. I have a number of dimmers that have dead triac outputs - just use them for communicating "ON/OFF" commands to other devices.

7 hours ago, windrockwater said:

The other flood is brand new and seems to say is dimmable (by the way its a pretty well made item compared to box store garbage).

https://www.amplighting.com/amp-secure-twin-head-round-security-light-motion-sensor

Hello windrockwater,

The fixture in the link is not dimmable by 120AC phase fired dimmer. It has a separate 0-10Vdc dimming input.

You need an Insteon relay for that one if not intending to dim.