apostolakisl

@Geddy thank you for the info. Does @Panda88 know about this?

Stopped getting any data from the car. I tried restarting, then rebooting polisy then deleted and readded node. I get the following error 2024-01-25 13:26:01,163 Thread-7 udi_interface ERROR TeslaCloudEVapi:teslaEV_GetIdList: Error getting vehicle list 2024-01-25 13:26:01,164 Thread-7 udi_interface ERROR TeslaCloudEVapi:teslaEV_GetIdList: Trying to reconnect 2024-01-25 13:26:02,051 Thread-7 udi_interface ERROR TeslaEVController:createNodes: Exception Controller start: object of type 'NoneType' has no len() It shows that it is connected and I get the Tesla Node in the admin console but it says zero vehicles.

Haven't touched the Elk itself or the nodeserver in ages. Yesterday, noticed an exclamation mark next to Elk outputs on the admin console. I was still controlling Elk from ISY fine. I checked the node server, it said I had an error from a wrong passcode (which wasn't wrong). Also said I had an update. I did the update and it wouldn't work at all. I then rebooted polisy completely and it still doesn't work at all. I try to start it and it won't start. I did recently update ISY and Polisy firmware to the latest. I really should learn my lesson and stop updating things. Also, my Tesla node server says it is working, but there is zero data showing up in the admin console. Not sure if these have anythign to do with each other. Other nodes seem to be working. EDIT: Turns out the Tesla issue is that the api changed, so not related. And here is the log 2024-01-25 13:21:16,770 MainThread udi_interface INFO polylogger:set_basic_config: set_basic_config: enable=True level=30 2024-01-25 13:21:16,772 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: UDI interface initializing 2024-01-25 13:21:16,773 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: User=polyglot 2024-01-25 13:21:16,774 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: Home=/var/polyglot 2024-01-25 13:21:16,775 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: Node Server Path=/var/polyglot/pg3/ns/0021b9023863_16 2024-01-25 13:21:16,775 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: PG3INIT=eyJ1dWlkIjoiMDA6MjE6Yjk6MDI6Mzg6NjMiLCJwcm9maWxlTnVtIjoxNiwibG9nTGV2ZWwiOiJXQVJOSU5HIiwidG9rZW4iOiIreUNYQUh0VTgzdncpOT10IiwibXF0dEhvc3QiOiJsb2NhbGhvc3QiLCJtcXR0UG9ydCI6MTg4OCwic2VjdXJlIjoxLCJpc1BHM3giOmZhbHNlLCJwZzNWZXJzaW9uIjoiMy4xLjIzIiwiaXN5VmVyc2lvbiI6IjUuMy4zIiwiZWRpdGlvbiI6IlN0YW5kYXJkIn0= 2024-01-25 13:21:16,776 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: Loading interface module 2024-01-25 13:21:17,666 MainThread udi_interface INFO interface:<module>: Loading MQTT module 2024-01-25 13:21:17,968 MainThread udi_interface INFO interface:<module>: MQTT module loaded 2024-01-25 13:21:20,186 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: Loading udi_interface module 2024-01-25 13:21:20,190 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: Loading node module 2024-01-25 13:21:20,190 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: Loading custom module 2024-01-25 13:21:20,191 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: Loading isy module 2024-01-25 13:21:20,191 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: UDI interface initialized 2024-01-25 13:21:20,191 MainThread udi_interface INFO __init__:<module>: UDI Python Interface for Polyglot version 3 3.2.6 Starting... 2024-01-25 13:21:20,198 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: Traceback (most recent call last): 2024-01-25 13:21:20,198 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: File "/var/polyglot/pg3/ns/0021b9023863_16/./elk-poly.py", line 10, in <module> 2024-01-25 13:21:20,200 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: from nodes import VERSION,Controller 2024-01-25 13:21:20,201 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: File "/var/polyglot/pg3/ns/0021b9023863_16/nodes/__init__.py", line 3, in <module> 2024-01-25 13:21:20,202 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: from .BaseNode import BaseNode 2024-01-25 13:21:20,203 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: File "/var/polyglot/pg3/ns/0021b9023863_16/nodes/BaseNode.py", line 7, in <module> 2024-01-25 13:21:20,204 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: from const import NODE_DEF_MAP,ELK_TO_INDEX 2024-01-25 13:21:20,205 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: File "/var/polyglot/pg3/ns/0021b9023863_16/const.py", line 1 2024-01-25 13:21:20,205 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: 233: "Invalid", 2024-01-25 13:21:20,206 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: ^ 2024-01-25 13:21:20,207 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: SyntaxError 2024-01-25 13:21:20,207 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: : 2024-01-25 13:21:20,208 MainThread udi_interface ERROR udi_interface:write: illegal target for annotation EDIT 2: @Jimbo.Automates I tried uninstalling and reinstalling and it still won't run. It says it is starting, and then after a few seconds it stops.

The time to have done this was while under construction. Running wires after the walls are up is a whole lot more work. You can go with an all wireless system at this point, certainly a pretty basic DIY job, but then you will have to maintain all the batteries. You can still run wires, but it often requires some cleverness, special tools, and a certain level of skill.

For smoke detectors you would want a proper security panel to manage them and then link that panel to Eisy. Your local code may affect your options. If you are out in the country, you may not have to worry about local codes which may not exist. Anyway, some code requires a 120vac smoke system and others will allow low voltage setups. When I built my house I was allowed to use low voltage smokes that are all tied into my Elk panel which then links to ISY via a node server. There are two wire and four wire smokes. I like the four wire setup where power and signal are separate. DSC would be a more cost effective way to do that if you don't care for all the Elk bells and whistles. I haven't ever hooked smokes to a DSC system but I'm sure they have provisions for it. If I were doing it again, I don't know that I would bother with Elk since all that stuff is managed so well from ISY. If you are stuck with 120vac smokes, there may be a dry contact that you could tap into and then hook that to an IO link to bring the status of the smokes into Eisy. I have an all electric house and didn't bother with any CO detectors.

As mentioned, you can not turn KPL buttons on directly from a program, however, if a KPL button is in a scene and a program turns that scene on, the KPL button turns on. So, you need to have a scene that the KPL button is in, even if nothing else is in the scene. Then using the same program that turns on your Bond Bridge, have it also turn that scene on, and similarly for turning it off.

yes, envisalink won't affect your phone dialer. I actually have my dsc connected to polisy via envisalink and I use alarm relay via a phone dialer. If you want to use envisalink to report via IP to alarm relay and to connect to eisy, I don't think that will work. Though you may be able to connect two envisalink units, not sure.

The sooner they get a local api the sooner I buy their products.

@Panda88 It has been a year since I last asked and the answer was that a local api might be in the works. Wondering if there is any new info. Thanks

And it integrates with ISY using the wireless tag node server. For about $100 you could have the tag, the hub, and the node server. Then for roughly $25 ea you can keep adding more tags for whatever else, like outdoor temp/humidity, other fridges, water detection, etc. I have done this monitoring some walk-in units at my church and used the hard wired version so I don't have to mess with the batteries. I then have a program on ISY that sends me an alert if the tag hasn't updated the temp in more than 45 minutes. You could do the same but would have to drill a tiny hole in the side of your fridge to run the wire. It is powered off of 5v USB jack but you can cut the wire so you just need to drill a 1/8 inch or smaller hole and then splice the wire back together. You would think a big metal box like a walkin cooler would kill the signal, but it doesn't. Though it definitely attenuates it. The program below runs at startup and just keeps resetting itself if the temp or humidity changes. Freezer Online - [ID 009F][Parent 009D][Run At Startup] If 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Temperature is 0.0°F Or 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Temperature is not 0.0°F Or 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Humidity is not 0.0% Or 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Humidity is 0.0% Then Wait 45 minutes Repeat Every 1 hour Send Notification to 'Lou and Stuart' content 'Freezer Monitor Offline' Send Notification to 'Denis Phocas' content 'Freezer Monitor Offline' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

As was mentioned, you usually do not put refrigerators on GFCI circuits, but that is a separate point. What you are basically asking for is to monitor for the presence of power. If you want to do that with Insteon and have an immediate report of loss of power, well, there isn't an Insteon device that does that. However, you could make one. I would suggest using a small electromagnet and an Insteon door close sensor. Into another outlet on the same circuit as the fridge, plug in the electro magent. Put the battery powered Insteon device next to that magnet. If the magnet shuts off, then the door sensor will show "open" status. Since the Insteon device is battery powered, it will be able to immediately communicate the power loss. The electormagnets I am thinking of run on 12vdc so you would plug in a 12vdc wall wart and then connect that to the magnet power supply. The magnet I show here pulls 4w, so you might hunt for a less powerful magnet, or perhaps you could try powering it off of lower voltage.

I use Blue Iris software to monitor all my cameras and the Blue Iris node server. I find that for the price Foscam has some nice cameras. I have had a number of the cameras die, but only after many years of use and they are so cheap that I don't get upset about buying replacements. Blue Iris does require an always on PC but it is very capable software.

The problem is not with links. ISY programs turn off the lights using the PLM and your mobile device turns off the lights using the same PLM. Since your mobile device works, it can't be bad links. So restoring the device won't have any affect. Same thing with bad comm. If your mobile device works, then the comm is fine since it is following the same path from the PLM to the device. That pretty much just leaves the program. Try deleting the program completely and create a brand new program. Perhaps something got scrambled when you did the backup of your old ISY and restored it to your new one.

Or use the motion sensor as the trigger in the if clause. A motion sensor triggers a "control" upon sensing motion. "Control" means the origin of the signal is that device, however it might detect the world. So a switch -> you pushed it, a motion sensor -> detected motion, a water sensor -> detected water, an iolinc -> had the "i" part detect a change, etc.

I had some issues with my polisy that are quite possibly falling into this same category, though they seem to have been fixed. I use Automation Shacks Nodelink program and per Michelle it was overwhelming Polisy with open sockets and causing ISY to reboot and then in a later firmware was causing it to freeze. Reboots were about once a day and were preferred to freezing. After sending a bunch of logs to Michelle and having him remote into my machine, it appears that a few ISY updates later the problem was solved. Nodelink I do not believe has had any changes in a long time, perhaps years, so at some point it would appear that a change in ISY was the source of the compatibility issue.

Try downloading the offline java uninstaller. Then run the offline java installer. Then download the start.jnlp file from this forum. Java (at least in the format supporting ISY) is just crappy. I regularly have to mess with it. Back in the day, using ctrl/alt/delete to end some non responsive program was a regular thing, but those days are long gong . . . except for Java. And not on just one computer, but all of my computers. And not just once a year or something, but like once every couple weeks. And I have had to do the offline uninstall/install now about 3 times as well.

You have to have the old switch in the root folder. So first right click and remove from folder, then go to its new location in the tree and right click and you will see the "replace with" command. The new switch will have to be the same switch or an updated version of the same switch or you won't be given the option to select it as the destination of the programming.

2476D are quite old, likely at least 10 years old. The 2477D is the current model and has been for a long time. Some of your switches may have simply failed. The older switches had some issues with longevity and also just didn't work as well because they lacked radio communication. The new switches use both power line communication (inserting data into the houses power wires) and simultaneously through radio communication. These are called "dual band" and are quite reliable (the 2477d and 2477s). If there is no led lit up at all, the switch is either not getting power, or has failed. Possibly it just needs a reboot. To reboot, use a butter knife to pull out the disconnect tab at the bottom of the switch (it can be stubborn). This pull out tab will completely cut power to the switch's electronics. You must properly pull it out to ensure you actually disconnected power. When properly pulled out, it will stick out a couple millimeters and stay there all by itself. Leave it out for about 10 seconds, then give it a tap so that it pops back in. After a few seconds the switch will reboot. If instead of just popping it back in, you push it in and hold it in (deeply) for about 15 seconds as the switch boots up, the switch will do a factory reset. I would not do this right off since it may have had programming in it that is useful (assuming the previous owner had put useful links on it). I have never seen an insteon switch whose led just cycled up and down and up and down all on its own endlessly. Sounds like some failure mode. Possibly a reboot will fix it. Switches that go up when you push the up button and down when you push the down button are behaving as expected from that point. You need to figure out what the switch is connected to. This may be nothing if it was used to control a scene and not directly connected to a load (light). Switches that blink red after using them would be a newer switch. If it blinks red, that means it had been linked to another switch and the other switch didn't respond when you used it. Or it could have been linked to a controller (like isy) and the controller didn't respond, possibly because it isn't there (the previous owner took it with them). Insteon switches all have the ability to directly control a load (like a light) or directly control nothing but rather indirectly control things through data links to other switches (a scene). If it directly controls a light, then by itself, it behaves the same as any "dumb" switch. The cool and useful thing about Insteon is how it links up with other switches and controllers (like ISY). When switches are linked together you have created a "scene". Programming a simple scene can be done directly with the switch (download instructions from the internet). But scenes can be made extremely fancy and complex if you employ the use of an ISY. If none of this interests you, then you should pull the switches and put "dumb" switches back in. It is very close to a 100% chance that the house was wired for dumb switches. If you are clueless on how these things are wired, you need to hire an electrician. If you do it yourself, you will no doubt discover that many switches in the house were wired for 3 way or 4 way and thus you will need to figure out which wires go between which switch boxes. A simple switch that directly controls one load with no other switches is pretty easy. Insteon switches have 3 wires (plus ground). A white (neutral), a black (hot), and red ( load to the fixture). White and black must be connected for the switch to work. The red might be capped if that switch does not directly control a fixture.

As @paulbates said. Sounds like the light fixture is electricly "noisy". Might need a filter or a light that has cleaner electronics. And unless you have circumstances to control "off" that are more than just waiting a few minutes after last motion, you would be better off letting the MS be in control and skipping the program.

are these all insteon devices? If so, link them directly and get rid of the program. Direct links work much faster and avoid unnecessary clutter in your program tree.

I had my programs disabled on _4 a while back. I upgraded to _5 at that time and have not had any issues since, including the switch back to standard time (CST). Sunrise and sunset also are correct. I also do not understand the "secret" _1,2,3 etc version. Getting all your programs disabled is kind of a big deal depending on what they were doing and then if you have a complicated setup with lots of programs and specific ones disabled sprinkled about, it is no fun correcting.

May I suggest then renaming some of them. For example, instead of "zone expander", name it "zone expander trouble". It would make it butt obvious then. Cause. . . who has time to read the instructions?

I was investigating using some of the values on this page. But see a number of things that make no sense. First off, my Elk is connected to ISY and correctly tracking the armed status and the zones and all the usual stuff. But on this page, it shows the node server as "disconnected", but it clearly is connected. It also says "false" on a bunch of things like having an output and input expander (which I have several of) and ethernet as "false" despite it clearly being connected. Also "dislplay message in keypad" is false, yet I have messages being displayed via ISY and this node server.

Probably overkill doing both is zero or is not zero since the odds of it being exactly at 0.0 and staying at 0.0 are slim to none, but whatever.

I don't really know what all of the names of your stuff is, but if it is loading real time weather data into a variable, you would presume that the data would change at least a little with every update, especially if it is reading to the tenths place. You could use that as a retrigger for your monitoring program instead of a heartbeat. As an example, I have wireless tags monitoring a walk in freezer and fridge at my church. I have a program that retriggers every time the temp changes. If it fails to retrigger after 45min, I get an alert. For that program to fail, both the wait clause would have to fail and the wireless tag connection would need to fail essentially simultaneously. As a precaution, I could add a few "if" items such as if time is 6am, 12noon, 6pm, and 12mn to ensure I don't go more than 6 hours without an alert in the failure event I mentioned. Freezer Online - [ID 009F][Parent 009D][Run At Startup] If 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Temperature is 0.0°F Or 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Temperature is not 0.0°F Or 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Humidity is not 0.0% Or 'Walk Ins / TGOC Walk-Ins / TGOC Freezer' Humidity is 0.0% Then Wait 45 minutes Repeat Every 1 hour Send Notification to 'Lou and Stuart' content 'Freezer Monitor Offline' Send Notification to 'Denis Phocas' content 'Freezer Monitor Offline' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') To test your program you can right click on the program that is supposed to be running in a loop and hit "stop" and then see if your program alerts you.