Teken

Simply fantastic can you offer the link to the TTS? I wanted to use a voice which was as natural as possible which isn't anyone in my home. I think hearing someone in the family speaking over a PA / speaker would be crazy weird! Thank You! ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

A few forum members besides the Admins already have write access to the WiKi to make edits and additions. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Would you be able to offer a step by step guide how this was accomplished with screen shots of the network resources to do so? [emoji848] I have two RPi's sitting idle that already have openelec preloaded. [emoji5] Any guidance in this area would be greatly appreciated! [emoji4][emoji106]

Because you had it configured to 6 button mode before? So is it working fine now?

I believe v9E is the current shipping firmware in both the hardware revision 2.1 / 2.2 for a while. What is the hardware revision and production date for the KPL? Older KPL's don't have a *Option* tab in the ISY Series Controller so you will need to turn off the beeper manually as listed in the full users manual. What do you mean the *OFF* button doesn't work? Are you sure the device isn't defaulted to send ON only? As the device can be set to send ON only, OFF only, and toggle. Toggle is the default behavior assuming you didn't change it. If the device isn't hard resetting you need to ensure you pull the clear set button out for at least 10 seconds. Once that time elapses you need to push it in all the way and hold it in. Just hold it and you will either see or hear the load flash and beep. Regardless of the beep just hold it in until you see something happen to the attached load and normally it flashes once. Let us know how that goes and we can move forward with anything else.

Yes, unfortunately those are the steps required and you may also have to do a restore device afterwards for each battery operated hardware. Just get a nice cold beer and get comfortable and just keep clicking away until its done. Once that task is complete ensure you make another back up of the system so a snap shot of the new 2413S PLM is present for the next *Renewal* period. Let us know how it goes and please also report back the firmware under the help tab for the PLM.

I would dare say for historic recall the following Insteon devices showed very similar failures at or slightly past the two year mark: 2412N SmartLinc, N.O. Load Controller.

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Let it finish and report back what happens. Keep in mind if the PLM is failing the restore is just buying time. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

All you need to do is select the log and save it to your computer.

My reply was only trying to address the errant KPL device in hopes of solving that issue first. Since you note both devices are not related or linked to the KPL this could be related to the ALL ON issue some have experienced. The first thing I would do in no specific order of importance is do the following. 1. Determine how old your 2413S PLM is and if its approaching two years it may be failing. Select the HELP tab and see if it shows the PLM is connected and shows the revision number. If not you have an issue, if it does the next step is to run a PLM Link Compare at least 3-5 times with no one moving around or turning things on / off. If the PLM Linc Compare shows something crazy stupid like 5 links thats a sign the PLM is dying too. You can do a PLM Restore as a quick fix but that's a band aid to the bigger issue of a failing PLM. 2. I would go to the two devices you noted that turned on and select them. See if anything is incorrectly linked to them or verify if a program has been accidentally enabled / linked to them. 3. Hard reset both devices that turned on and also perform a restore device.

If you air gapped the KPL and it still behaves oddly you can try hard resetting the device and then complete a *Restore Device*.

Hello Adrian, More often than not a simple Insteon Filter Linc placed at the right spot will resolve most communications issue(s). I'm not too surprised to hear the dimmer is having issues with A/V gear. Almost all electronic devices present some kind of load on the power line whether it be noise makers / signal suckers. Consider placing a few of these on a power bar: http://www.smarthome.com/filterlinc-10-amp-plug-in-noise-filter.html Keeping in mind they only come in 5 / 10 amp ratings. If wiring isn't an issue you can install one of these huge devices which offer 20 amps of capacity: http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-10-PRO-XPF-20A-Wired-In-Noise-Filter-3-Wire-/122261204164?hash=item1c7755ecc4:g:4yEAAOSw5cNYSgGk

That is correct . . . Ideally you should run a PLM Link Compare several times to see how many links are in the unit. If it shows a very low link count like some crazy (20) links that is a sure sign of a pending failure.

If the 2413S PLM is still under the two year warranty period you can submit a RMA and have the unit crossed docked. Doing so will ensure you still have something on hand to use. If the device is not covered by the two year warranty period and you do decide to purchase a new unit and follow Pauls suggestion. You can also try your hand repairing the 2413S PLM using this outstanding forum thread: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/?hl=%2Bplm+%2Bfail Keep in mind to help you limp along you can try to complete a restore PLM also.

No worries, please read the pop up message that is displayed which indicates the system will close the Admin Console once the first portion of the replace with command is done. Please also note the device you intend to replace should be called something else. And that the *New* device will take on the *Old* name and all its program, option, feature selections. Meaning if the old switch is called dog and the new switch is called cat. Once you select the replace with the cat device will disappear from device tree. When you go back into the Admin Console you will notice that dog hardware will have the cat insteon ID. This is how you know it was replaced in the first place and correctly.

Hello, It means the hardware must be the same - so if you had a KPL dimmer it must also be a KPL dimmer. You could not replace a KPL dimmer with a KPL Relay, plugin lamp linc dimmer. There are also some legacy products like the appliance linc which can not be *Replaced With* so like the plugin On-Off module as they didn't exist at the time. This has nothing to do with being single band vs dual band though. You shouldn't have any issues using the replace with for those two devices assuming both are relay switches.

Larry pretty much cut down to the bone here. Almost everything a person does in life is based on trust, honor system, and rule of law. I trust my homes voice integrated security with UDI way before I can say the same for Google. To think there are tens of millions of sheep knowingly using Nest TSTAT, Nest Protect, Nest Drop Cam, Google Fiber, Google Home, Google Mail, Google Media, etc. Quite shocking and comical in the same breath - let the games begin!

Information Only: A manual query does not perform the same function as a automated query.

Information Only: Various Insteon EDOC's indicate the battery percentage can be obtained and displayed to the controller. I am unsure why this important piece of information is never displayed even when its clearly printed as being available for use.

Understood, but please ensure you have all the safety aspects in place before you ever remote control the largest door in your home.

I suppose it really comes down to use case and a persons comfort level of risk(s). For me I can't say this is something that would be done in my home or those I help deploy home automation. The reality is humans by their very nature are lazy and don't complete tasks unless some kind of outside factor whether it be personal, business, or legal makes them do so. This (specific) topic has been discussed at length in various forms and the only thing any of us can do is offer that insight in hopes balance can be found. As of this writing I haven't met a single person in my community that has ever bothered to complete the required monthly, yearly GDO inspections, mechanical adjustment, and validation tests. To think the most basic safety aspects have already been ignored yet people want to add in another layer of *Risk / Hazard* to something that isn't even maintained by the masses. Yeah, I can't see anything going wrong here . . .

I would encourage you to find and use a *Unique* phrase / word that can't be easily used against you. Adding voice control to open and close the largest door in your home with out any measure of authentication is a recipe for disaster. Keeping in mind several large insurance companies have already stated they intend to update their home owners insurance policy to decline future claims due to the above. Just because you can do a thing - Doesn't mean you should . . .

It was UDI's first pass at creating a new interface for the ISY Series Controller. Sadly, no further development has been seen in this are for quite sometime. If you didn't notice there is also the HAD interface which offers another alternate view and also enables a person to create custom display(s). This was created by Beniot one of the UDI support staff who also happens to be the lead developer in the Amazon Echo integration to the ISY Portal. More information about the HAD interface can be found in the Wiki.

Good to know the sound was from the dual band relay style KPL's. I've had several of these first generation KPL's fail or start to act odd where trying to write updates / restore device would continue to fail after dozens of attempts. In some cases I have started down the repair process and have been very successful in restoring the same via the infamous cap replacement process. The only KPL that I failed to repair was one that needed a IC and timing crystal. At the time I didn't have source for the part but later bought a used (Insteon) part for pennies on the dollar and scavenged the part to inject it into the KPL needing it. Worked out quite well and has been humming along nicely for the last 14 months.