dbwarner5

Yes, it must be the newer version as I just got them this summer. Redid the installation to be more of a typical installation with a stationary magnet (on wood), and the transmitter moving on the door. So far, with limited testing, its working. Time will tell, but I think the metal hinge was somehow affecting it. Thanks!

I think its the metal of the hinge is affecting the magnetic field somehow.. having it removed, and inside, its working 100%. Will rethink my installation and try again! Will eliminate that aspect and then that will narrow it down to poor communications as the only variable left. Thanks for everyone's help. Will keep trying..

So far, I cannot get it to repeat inside. So this takes me to my hinge mechanism is somehow interfering or I am getting poor communications. Cant explain why it works well after the first time though. Will repeat experimenting with it tomorrow inside, and then may go back to a traditional fixed mount vs the hinge and see what happens. Thanks.

Pictures of set up: Door in open position, Door in closed position. I have unmounted it and have it now inside, in the Open position.. will leave it this way for an hour or two and test it.

Lots of vibration... mounted on a moving garage door. Yes..I'll post pictures.. Now I am curious enough to go uninstall them and bring them inside to see if I can duplicate the behavior indoors, manually.

Very unlikely that rain or anything else got to them. Just installed them a few months ago. They are close to the top of ten ft doors, on the inside. Gap is about as small as you can get it. I need to play with them some more, on another day, when its not 45, rainy with high winds.. lol . I have the magnet on a large hinge, which may just be moving too slowly at first. I have lubricated them, but need to have the door open for a period of time, and then get a ladder out and manually move the magnet once quickly and see if it registers. I have done this before as I was trouble shooting them, but it was before I had my hypothesis of what was happening. Instead have recently just shut the door, and seen that it didnt register, open it 2 feet, and then reshut it and it registers. At this point I have immediately repeated opening and shutting the door 2-4 feet and closing it and all open/shuts register. So to eliminate my installation method as the cause; theory possibly being that the hinge operates too slowly the first time, I will repeat it manually with a ladder. Next will be to remove the cover and see if I can see the switch manually moving and lastly, remove it from the door and bring inside where I can test it further manually. Will keep this posted later this week when I get to it. (or if I get impatient today, I may go out and get it off and test it further inside!). Cheers.

No it doesn’t seem to

@Brian H just to be clear, this is not the case.. “From your findings of OK first time and intermittent the next times.”. Please read my posts a little closer where i have stated twice: “It seems as if though it takes a “cycle” to get it to work. After that first cycle, i get 100% communications and consistency,” @larryllix Am not sure about the temp question. It’s been around 50-70 degrees F here when i have noticed and isolated the behavior. Thanks.

@simplextech i have it mounted on the door, with the magnet on a hinge. When the door is open, the hinge falls away. I may have to mount the magnet on the side and place an extra one 1 foot further up the track so that it gets a “false” cycle to kick the dumb thing on. May work......but really?

@Brian H Yes, am aware that battery items go to sleep. It seems as if though it takes a “cycle” to get it to work. AFter that first cyc.e, i get 100% communications and consistency, but am not sure. How to test it vs a communications issue. How would i check the RF signal at a dual band device nearby? And if its not there, is it a communications issue or the device not broadcasting, the first cycle which is more what i seem to be seeing. Thanks,

I have two of the above on a two separate pole barn overhead doors such that when closed they are in contact with the magnet, open they are not. It seems that when I first open one of the doors, after a period of time has elapsed, ie 1 day or more, I get about a 90% reliability of it registering open. Then a few hours later, when I close the door, I get NO registration of it being closed. However, if I immediately open the door and reclose it any number of times, or manually move the magnet, I get 100% reliable readings. It seems as if the triggerlinc is "going to sleep" and takes a cycle to wake it up enough to properly register. And this "sleep" seems to happen every time when its open, and just randomly when in the closed position. Has anyone else seen this behavior? I can reliably repeat this behavior. Thanks.

@GQuack Glenn! doing well.... always balancing the line between loving my HA and dealing with updates / systems / failures etc! I'll touch base offline from here.... By the way , if items are changing and programs running, the count will differ. I am not sure why, but I went through this a while ago because I had over 900 links and things were acting strange and that is one of the things I learned. So to get an accurate count, you should stop any programs and try to get the system to be static while doing the count.

@Michel Kohanim As you have heard before, wish UDI would develop their own PLM that had capacity corresponding to the isy and was reliable. This is the weakest link by a magnitude of 10 to using ISY / Polisy and all the great things UDI has done.

In regards to the following: Please Note: Due to reported issues, if you are not using a 500 Series Z-Wave board in your ISY then we do not recommend you upgrade to 5.1.0 What is the recommended process to upgrade both z-wave and the isy? Ie: I am on 5.016c with the 300 series.. should I first upgrade the zwave board and then migrate to 5.1? Is there a thread on how to do this? thanks.

you could set a variable for each scene you want, then the variable gets controlled either by time of day or whatever button is pushed on keypad. so Morning may be 1, day 2, etc, party 5, etc.. then based on the variable whenever the motion detector triggers, you run a series of programs, each testing for the varilabe state and then turns the lights on accordingly... So a series of programs that set the variable based on time of day..... a series of programs that set it b tased on the keypad settings, then a series of programs that get run whenever the motion detector triggers. you can then build in resets etc. prog1: if var =1, then morning light settings prog 2; if var =2, then set lights for day e let me know if you need more details along this thought process, but it is pretty straight forward and would work well. etc.

Have been using fanlincs since they came out.. Have replaced ~30% of them through the years. When recently building a new house, with this replacement history, I had the electricians place boxes in convenient places for the fanlincs, like in a closet or in a bathroom cabinet, so that I dont have to access the fan itself in two 10 foot ceiling rooms and one 20 ft room etc. in replacing them. So far in four years, I have had to replace 3 of 5...... Failure seems to follow power surges / outages. I also have temp sensors in the fans or in the rooms and have the fan speed correlated to the temps / season etc.

@JSchumann If you sole purpose is to turn on your interior motion sensors AFTEr you have left the house and the Elk is fully armed, why not just simply put a wait of 2 minutes or so after any elk arming condition? IE: If elk is armed away or armed vacation or armed..etct....then wait 2 minutes, activate interior sensors.. You could even make the timer 10 minutes, unless you think you will miss someone entering your house that soon after you leave?

Perfect summary.....

@TheWabit no problem.. good luck. The ISY is an extremely powerful device and only limited by your imagination and determination to figure it out the nuances of "state" based programming. Even after ~20 years of doing this beginning with X10 telephone responders at a second home, I still learn something or a new trick all the time from folks here. Cheers.

@TheWabit Think of it this way..,. the MS can be in the scene but doesn't have to be. For any scene, you can have multiple ways to "trigger" them. In a scene, any of the devices (depends on kind), can either be a responder or a controller., If its a controller, then its a "trigger" for that scene. For example, if. you have three switches that control three different lights in a room and you want to have a "mood" setting, you could set up a scene to do so, with each light set at the level you want. Now how do you "trigger" that scene? Some possibilities could be: -a Program that calls it on or off, dependant on its IF statement -a controller in the scene itself.. ie, it could be whenever you turn one of the three switches on or off, all three go to the scene setting - could be two of the three switches, it could be all three of the switches etc -Alexa. -keypad button in the scene or keypad that calls a program that turns it on -etc. Glad you got it working the way you want it to! Also remember, that with Waits and Repeats, the IF statement gets re-evaluated, so in your program, the MS turns on, and if its in the time period, the program turns true and turns on the scene and starts the WAIT. At that point it re-evaluates the IF. In your case the MS will still be on as it probably has a 30 or 60 second delay. So the program is still true and continues to the end of the Wait clause. However for example, if you had a second Wait after the first 10 minutes, followed by action xyzzy, the program would never get to xyzzy because the MS would be off, and the program would turn false and stop running. Here is the description from the wiki attached below on this. Its easy to get tripped up by this as your programs grow in complexity. A series of statements within a Then clause (or within an Else clause), up to the next Wait or Repeat statement, are atomic. In other words, all such statements are executed before the conditions of the program are retested. The program's conditions are reevaluated each time a Wait or Repeat statement is encountered, and at the end of each iteration of a Repeat loop. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Scope,_Precedence_and_Execution_Order Cheers.

@TheWabit One more question for clarification. Do you have the Motion Sensor as a controller of the scene? If you do, that is why your light is coming on. You have now have two triggers for the scene, the MS and the program. And that is why your program is not running the then, as it IS false based on the time, but the MS as controller of the scene is turning it on 24hours a day. If not, then as my earlier post, please copy to clipboard and paste the actual program for review. thanks.

@TheWabit can you post the actual program? In the Admin console, right click on the program and at the bottom choose, Copy to clipboard. then paste it in this forum? Also try to explain in 1-2 sentences EXACTLY what you are trying to achieve. This is not a complex problem, but can sometimes be confusing for those trying to help w./o these two things, which then leads to even more confusion for you!! thanks

Am using 2 Honeywell z-wave thermostats. Integrates well with isy. havent had any problems with them for 4 years now. No latency as everything is local. All programming is done in isy vs at the thermostats. Can also control easily with Alexa. Also relatively easy to read and use. Have an ecobee at a second home. Also z-wave, to a Samsung smartphone hub.. using polyisy node server. Also works really well. A bit easier to walk up and adjust / read.

to add to lilyoyo1, your program is "adjusting" the scene. You still need to turn it on or off. In your case, there is no need to adjust the scene, just turn it on or turn it off. Adjusting the scene will affect the properties of that light for the NEXT time you turn it on, and in of itself, does NOT turn the light on.

You can set up a program in the isy and then give it a voice command in the portal and then simple say to Alex to turn it on, which runs the THEN, or turn it off which runs the ELSE. Many times, I use a very simple program to tie to Alexa, then have it initiate much more complex multiple program events, that previously might have been tied to keypads etc.