lilyoyo1

Are you sure the lights are dimmable? What type of transformer are you using? Is it a dimmable transformer

The lamplinc requires a minimum of 5w in order to operate properly. It wouldn't surprise me if the outlet had the same requirement. Your bulbs wattage might be too low

I use the portal for my google and alexa setups as well without any issues. At one time, I did use google and alexa speakers but have since switched over to using Sonos 1 speakers in their place. I do still have 2 google devices (a hub and clock). All work exactly the same. Even when I switched over, I didnt have to make any changes. The system itself just worked. Everything you do starts with how you set your system up. Any shortcuts will only compound matters worse the farther you get. You say your naming covention in the ISY isnt the best. If thats the case, how can you expect things to work right 2 or 3 steps down? For starters, you dont necessarily need to put the name of the device in your spoken. Using your kitchen for example. You dont need to put kitchen in front of each device. You can simply add them to the room in the portal with their name. Island can be called island not kitchen island. Cabinet lights can be called cabinet,breakfast nook can be called Nook, etc. etc. Once you add it to google, they should appear in the app in the assigned room. Then, when you're in the kitchen, simply saying turn on the island will turn that light on. For my setup, I simply used the lights I use most in the room to turn on. I dont try to control every single device as I dont want to remember specific phrases or names. When turning off, I trigger a program which turns off everything. That way, regardless of whats on, they all turn off. I can walk out and say turn off the lights. No phrasing or remembering what something is called. Whatever is on turns off.

I'm not sure why you're having such a hard time. I simply tell Google or alexa to turn my lights on or off and they simply work. If something is in the room you don't have to say the room name. It's literally as simple as saying turn on the light. If I want to control something in another room such as the master bedroom, I'll say turn off the master bedroom light. Most likely, the issues you're having is with how you have set up your system vs the system itself.

I use ecobee and simply say turn on the AC or heat. This works without issue

There's a roomie subforum. You may want to post there as all users don't check every post.

Lmao. If you're ever in Charlotte or orange county we will see who's the light weight. Tab's on the list. Lol

I do my scenes all at once with a gin and tonic by my side. Vodka while I'm programming.

Yes. It's past time to upgrade to the 2413s. You'll need a power supply if you aren't already using one

The whole idea behind a reset is to erase everything. What issues are you having that makes you think you need to do that?

Due to a variety of factors no one can definitively say if something will solve an issue. They can only suggest things that can potentially solve an issue. With that said, the zwave switch itself would not be effected by noise. Building a strong mesh network however would be paramount to ensuring the switch communicates with the Isy properly. I would recommend adding 2 or 3 additional devices to to start with (depending on distance between isy and location)

Thats because there was nothing to trigger the or else to run. If x is switched on and (x is not switched off or status x is off) THEN stop and disable OR ELSE enable

How was the if originally written ? That's the key to running the or else. The way you have things written will work.

Not that I'm aware of. I highly doubt it's a load issue. The more programs you use for a single tasks simply increases the chance of something being missed

How was it originally written?

I would create 2 folders that operate during the hours you want. 1- from sunrise to 1 minute before sunset allow these programs to run 2- sunset- to 1 minute before sunrise allow these programs to run. Drop the corresponding programs into each folder.

You're welc9me. Combining your 5th program into the 4th. The or else would be ran off that statement which will re-enable the sensor program. The status isn't needed unless you are using an app or voice control to turn off that light. If it will always be manually switched off then you don't need the status line

I've found the more complex you make things; the more likely something is to go wrong. For me, it's keep it simple. The best answer to your question depends on what exactly you are trying to accomplish

You just need 3 and 4. Change program 4 to If light is switch on And (Light is not switched off or status ceiling light is off) then stop program and disable it Or else Enable program Unless you turn off the lights by other methods such as an app or voice control, you don't necessarily need to use status

I can't speak for others but I want my scenes to work outside of the isy vs depending on the isy for every detail. That way, should my isy go bad, the main portion still works. In regards to the ops question, I create a scene with each device that I want to control in that scene. I then set the level that each device should be in when the scene is turned on. This includes other buttons that may control other scenes such movie, tv, game, apple TV, etc. Those buttons would be set to off. That way, when switching from scene to scene, each button is turned off accordingly. I then have programs which will turn the corresponding scene on that is geared to my remote and vice versa.

There isn't. Take pictures of the existing programs that are flagged, revert back, and compare them to the old programs. Take pictures again so you have a reference point and then upgrade

The developer was asked this before and he said he had no interest in adding them due to how he polls the hue bridge. The timing would not be a huge benefit for automation.

Thats always been the regular price.It's the same whether its the dimmer or relay. Both however go on sale quite often.

If it's not isy controllable then the answer is no. I'm not surprised. Most of us will pay more for an isy controlled plug as you have a broad range of options vs a singular use. Saving a few dollars is nice but not if it limits our our options. Also we look at isy compatibility first then what connects to it such as Alexa or Google vs the other way around.

That is normal behavior for all isy branches. If you want to control a scene you have to control that scene. Controlling the individual device in the AC will only control that device You'll find the information in the isy wiki and cook book