EricK

I have some similar situations and use two scenes, one with the responder set to 90%, one at 50%. Timers adjust the light by activating the scenes at different times of the day. viewtopic.php?f=27&t=13439 So, you could make a basement playroom lights 100% scene and a 40% scene. Then have a couple of programs. If time is from 8p to 8a next day And (control is switched on or control is switched fast on or control is fade up orr other control is switched on, etc) Then set scene 40% on If time is 8a to 8p And (control is switched on or other control is switched on) Then set scene 100 on. Set your ramp rates in each scene. Anyway, there are a couple of ways to do this. I can post actually programs this weekend if that will help. Eric

The dry contact interface can control one channel. Take a look at this thread, although I do not recall how many channels it will control. Contact the TS for more info. Eric http://www.smarthome.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4982

This would be an example for which a scene might be helpful to you. You can create an all off or away scene. Add all of your devices to it. When you leave the house, trigger the scene (via keypad button or other controller) and all of the lights turn off. This would work better than a program with a bunch of then actions to turn off the lights if the controller is activated.

What is usually recommended is to use scenes when possible. Devices can then respond directly to the comtroller, rather than going thru themisy. So make "party" scene and set responder levels. Then create a scene called party kpl, and add the party scene button as a responder to the scene. Create a program, if party scene button is on or fast on, then wait 4 seconds (to allow traffic to clear), set scene party Kpl off.

Teken, You missed the sarcasm. Just like I wrote about spending money on a backup generator, the power will never go out now. Now that I have dropped money on a system it will ward off the evil spirits. Eric

Don't cringe. 400. The plumbing co is right down the road from us. I had a guy out for at least 4 hours on a Sunday when the basement shower backed up while the washer was running due to a root in the line. The guypulled the toilet, snaked and scoped the line and charged 500. They wanted 120 to replace the kitchen faucet while my hvac co that now does plumbing wanted twice that. My guys came out and charged zero when I thought my sons bathroom sink was leaking. I was thinking 300 for the job, but with this co, I like the service they provide, so I just paid. I know that if i have a problem that they will be on it. Anyway, by the fact that I now have system in place I have almost guaranteed that I will not have a leak. Superstitious like that.

Oh yeah, plumber was here yesterday. Paid a ridiculous amount to have the ELK valve installed, but they did a great job. I have the multiple valves so I can easily bypass the system. The valve is in the ceiling in a basement kitchen/utility room. A sink in the room did run for a couple of minutes after the valve triggered from a leak sensor. I suspect water upstairs would run for less. I dont remember if it was in this thread or another, but maybe I should have a water valve turn on when a leak is detected to bleed the system. I have three more leak sensors to install, although I cannot get one to be recognized. Anyway, here is the pic.

Stu the moderator in the smarthome forum has posted pics of his 4 button kpl. To make a 7 button you will need to put the kpl in 8 button mode, a thru h. I think you will need an 8 button frame. He "cross links" adjacent buttons so for your case a controls b and vice versa. Essentially make sure that a and b are both controllers and responders of the same scenes. Apparently the wide button will will snap into the 8 button frame. If you do this please post a pic. Eric

The reason I want the bypass is so I can maintain water flow if the valve were to malfunction. The other good reason is that I can play with it/test it with my leak sensors and scenes without interrupting water flow. Regarding the site you mentioned I have looked hem up and they are listed as an unauthorized seller on the elk website. Checking their reviews, it looks like they are good if everything goes fine, but if there is a problem, then you will have a problem. I bought my elk wsv2 from smarthome when it was on sale. I have a dmp alarm and will have to look into getting this to turn off the water. I'll just rely on the away button until then.

Shannon, Sounds like you know more about plumbing than I do, but what you describe looks good to me. Eric

Great job with the diagrams guys. Plumber is set to come out next Friday. I want to have them install the valve with a bypass with 2 three way levers. Will also try to keep a regular shut off valve. Something like this With 2 of these to be able to divert water thru the bypass: and one of these before the set up: Eric

Tony, Took a while for me to get this straight, studying the YouTube link, reading and watching videos about relays. I do have a sketch but can't scan it right now. I bought an automotive relay with the wiring harness. Hopefully I will have the plumber out in a week to install the valve. Power supply + to io linc com Elk red wire to no Elk white wire to nc The relay has a magnet for leads 85 and 86, so when power is sent thru, the magnet turns on, closing the relay switch and the circuit between 30 and 87. Elk green to 86 Relay 30 and 87 to io linc sensor and ground. When the valve closes, power is sent out the green wire, activating the relay magnet, closing the relay, you will hear it click, completing the 30 87 circuit, turning the sensor on. Grounds are last. Connect relay 85 and elk black to power supply negative/ground. Let me know if this works. Eric

Jay, Yes, two scenes. One for the lights, "Malibu Lights". The second is "All Lights Off". When you add devices to a scene as a controller they appear in red in the main tree. You have to make sure the responder levels for each controller is set. Clicking on the scene name shows the on levels if the ISY triggers the scene. Clicking on a red device name shows the on level if the device triggers the scene. There is a button to copy attributes from the scene name/ISY trigger. Create folders to organize things. Eric

Jay, I'll take a swing. I recently made the move from smartlinc to the isy, could not be happier. First, create a scene called "Malibu lights" and add the malibu light switch and the Kpl button for the lights to the scene as controllers. For 1 and 2: if time is sunset To 2am (next day) Then set scene "Malibu lights" on Else set scene "Malibu lights" off 3. Add the malibu light switch and kpl button to an "all lights off"scene. Make the all lights off button a controller of the scene and Set the button to non toggle off. 4. Done with the"Malibu lights" scene. Note, for the all off scene it does not matter what the on level response is set to, since the devices will turn off in response to the all off command. I hope this helps. Eric

From all of the reading I have done, adding a wait of a couple of seconds between scene triggers is a good idea to prevent signal collisions. Or you could create an additional scene 'MBR Curtains All' with all of the scene members of the 4 scenes, so instead of You would just have Set scene 'MBR Curtains All' Off Or make the on/off buttons controllers of the 'MBR Curtains All' scene and this way you do not need to have this as part of your program at all. Of course this will not solve what appears to be a communication problem. My PLM is plugged into an outlet shared with a UPS which is on a filterlinc. Good idea to do this. You can try moving the ISY as a test to see if things work better. What brand motors are you using? Eric

PJ, Couldn't you have a scene, "curtains". The on/off is a controller of the scene. The secondary buttons A-D are responders of the scene, set their response to on. The relays are also responders of the scene. When on is pressed, all buttons light up, curtains open. When off is pressed the opposite. This should work better than a program. If you want to have a program the close the curtains at sunset, the then would be insteon set scene "curtains" off. If you set it up this way make sure to set the response for the scene when the isy is used as a controller. If A-D do not respond to the scene, they may not depending upon the age of the Kpl then you may need a separate scene with just A-D as responders. Then you would need a program triggered by the on and off button to set that scene on or off. Eric

With my hidden door sensor I am able to set it up with two nodes. This way when the door to the basement is opened, the lights for the steps come on, but they do not turn off when the door closes. If you can set this up without a program it will work faster, slight delay with the program as Lee stated. Eric

I understand now, missed the above line in your description. The IF enables the program to be halted. Eric

Xathros, Can you explain the If condition of the program: Motion Timer for me. If control 'Gathering Room / Floor Lamp' is not Switched On Since the first programs calls for the Then to run, is the IF evaluated during the 45sec wait. If so wouldn't the program be false after the light is switched fast on. If the IF is not evaluated why do you need it in the program. Thanks, Eric I keep studying these threads to improve my programming ability.

I thought the video on the product page on the smarthome website was helpful: http://www.smarthome.com/12237DB/ISY994 ... PLM/p.aspx

For most things you should be using scenes which result in direct communication between devices. A program must go thru the isy. Say you have a switchlinc for the kitchen lights and a keypad button that you also want to control the same lights. Create a scene kitchen lights and add the switchlinc and keypad button as controllers of the scene. This will work better than a program, ex: if Kpl is switched on then set switchlinc kitchen lights on. So for your party scene add all the devices you want to control and set the on off levels for each device. Just be aware that you must set responses for each controller. For my away button I have created a scene, however part of this includes every device and just about every Kpl button in the great room, which are already part of the all off scene in the great room. So maybe it would have just been easier to make a program, that when I press away, the great room all off scene is triggered. A lot easier than adding 30 devices to a scene. Someone recently suggested being able to add scenes to scenes this way if you make a hardware or function change you only have to make the change in a primary scene. E

Wayne, Programming is not hard. Just read a lot of threads and get help here like I have done. You cannot directly control a KPL button. You would need to add the button to be a responder (with response set at 100%) of a scene then set that scene on or off. With the setup I propose local dimming can get things out of sync, but you can tighten things up to prevent this. You can make it so local dimming results in the lights at only off, 50%, or 100%. Then there are ways to monitor the lights to make sure things remain in sync. I don't think with automation like this that you should ever have to manually set things back in sync. Please check this tutorial: http://adamsj.com/isy/basementa.htm I used this method to monitor a scene to set a kpl on or off depending upon the scene status: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=13557 I think this is what oberkc was describing in his first reply. Eric

I have this program for the chandelier for our stairs. These lights are essentially always on. Since the kids sleep with their doors open I have a program to set the lights to 50% at certain times. However, if by chance we get the kids to bed before the lights are at 50% I have this program to get them there. The lights can be controlled by a switchlinc dimmer (load) or a kpl button. If Control 'Hall and Foyer / Hallway KPL8 - A - Hallway / Hallway KPL8 - B - Stairs' is switched Fast On Or Control 'Hall and Foyer / Hallway KPL8 - A - Hallway / Hallway KPL8 - B - Stairs' is switched Fast Off Or Control 'Hall and Foyer / Hallway Stairs' is switched Fast On Or Control 'Hall and Foyer / Hallway Stairs' is switched Fade Stop Or Control 'Hall and Foyer / Hallway KPL8 - A - Hallway / Hallway KPL8 - B - Stairs' is switched Fade Stop Then Wait 3 seconds Set Scene 'Hall and Foyer / Hallway Stairs 50%' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Default on level is 90%. Double tap on or off to go to 50%. Yes, the problem with this is that if the lights are at 90%, the evening level, and I fast switch on the switchlinc, the lights to go to 100% first, then to 50%. I can just do a little fade down and the lights dim a little, then go to 50%. Typically if I am adjusting the lights this way it is from the switchlinc upstairs, not the kpl downstairs. When the lights are on at 90% the kpl button is on. If I double tap it, the lights do turn off, then ramp back to 50%. I think this is a limitation of using kpls button for this. Wayne, For your program, you can set it up so if the lights are on 50% a fade up will help trigger the program to get them to 100%. If the lights are 100% and you do a fade down, they go to 50%. If Control 'Hall and Foyer / Sconce' is switched Fade Up And Status 'X Test2 KPL - E' is not Off Then - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Else Set Scene 'Hall and Foyer / Sconce 100%' On I hope this is helping. It certainly helps me to learn more about programming. Eric

I think you can get this done with a few programs I am sure an expert will reply and may be able to simplify this. Or they may suggest to use a variable to track which scene is on or if everything is off Second program (scene 1 to 2). I don't think you need to use the status of the lamp in the condition. If lamp is switched on And keyE is on Then set scene 2 on Third program (scene 2 to 1) If lamp is switched on And keyF is on Then set scene 1 on. First program (if off set scene 1 on) If lamp is switched on And keyE is off And keyF is off Then set scene 1 on I am not sure if you can use the status of the lamp as a condition for program1. Example: If lamp is off And control lamp is switched on Then set scene1 on. The reason is that as soon as the lamp is switched on the condition if off becomes false. Eric Edit: I had not seen the reply from oberkc. Because it is a dimmer you may need to use fade up in the programs. In addition I think you need a scene with keyE and keyF "keyE and F" as responders. You would need an additional program: If status lamp is off Then set scene keyE and F off

I am glad this thread came up. We recently had a generac generator installed and I would like to set something up to notify me if we are on back-up power. Isy is on a ups. In my utility room I have an outlet that is backed up and one that is not. I was considering an io linc plugged into the backed up outlet and maybe a relay (NO) that is fed by the non backed up outlet. When the power goes out, the relay would lose power, closing, turning the sensor of the io linc on. I was thinking of a simple program: If io linc sensor is on, wait 10 seconds, then send notification. However, I'm not exactly sure how this will work since the io linc will lose power during the switch over as will the plm. Thoughts on this would be appreciated. Eric