larryllix

There is that but.... Insteon devices already had retry and hop logic and a CPU with hundreds of Links spots inside so an enhancement of the software shouldn't make a smart Insteon device cost any more than a bare RPi Zero. LOL ISY with it's current scene management should be able to stuff a simple and or OR logic into a device and off load some of the load grind onto IEDs. Just think, people with the scene obsession (no names ) would be able to make more things work with an offline PolISY. It could do cool things like security Locking of devices by requiring two switched On commands in a sequence. I guess the Chinese haven't thought of it for Insteon yet.

Scenes cannot perform any logic and your task demands some logic. It will take programs to complete your task. Unfortunately, scenes are required to operate the LEDs in KPLs so programs will be required to operate scenes to operate the LEDs. Insteon was designed to only be a remote control system and not smart with logic. Wouldn't that be something if they installed some simple gate logic inside the SwitchLincs? eg: If xxx is On and yyy is switched on. It could change the game with IEDs (intelligent end devices) distributed around the house.

Welcome to the UDI forums! I can't really completely understand what you are trying to do as the usage of the word "scene" for everything is confusing me. The load connected to the wiring of the KPL is controlled by the HHPD On and HHPD off button/leds and no programs can interfere with that connection. I can't discern what the HHPD Scene contains. To turn on the HHPD LED you have to turn on the load connected. That cannot ever change. I don't see any involvement for a second KPL, Front Door, or Kitchen devices. Are they involved in this logic? Are your KPL buttons HH ON/OFF and PD ON/OFF in Toggle mode or are you doing the toggle function in ISY programs?

There is a way but I have forgotten how to do it. I just use a C for the temperature notifications. If you use the devices themselves the suffix will be automatic.

Race conditions should not be a problem if Integer variables are used as they don't trigger program evaluation.

I addition to what Paul was telling you, most of the conversion errors are marked with yellow? program icons. They knew it wouldn't convert correctly but was too difficult to do it properly or they couldn't trust the result and it has to be done by the human. I converted as soon as V5 came out also and the problems were quite obvious. I had some programs and a few scenes that didn't convert perfectly. Most just had to be OKed by me and saved. Yes. IIRC, V5 added the ability to save device parameters into variables. I can't imagine not being able to save the level of a lamp, flash it as a warning, and then restore it like nothing happened.

Duplicate post

Look for that little right carrot symbol. It opens up pages of different parameters in each program line.

Select all the boxes when you clear java cache.

When the last gmail security change went through I found if the UserID and the From box didn't have the same name it wouldn't send the message.

I don't know of any MagicHome bulbs or I would have some. I have 25 MagicHome compatible bulbs (about $8 each) but they don't support some of the functions like pastel colours. I use my own software and can do some animations at slower speeds. I use LEDenet 5 channel controllers. I love the colours and intensity of the SuperNight strips. I have ordered many from different suppliers and many have different connections so I had to scramble wiring for each unit but they all put out the same colours. Colour matching is important and done by tables in my ISY's variables. The 5m strips come with a connector on both ends. You can cut them in half and use two pieces without doing any soldering. The WW is about 3000K and love the light that comes off them. Good for working but also warm enough for TV watching or deep dimming.

No cloud required for Polyglot or Network Resources controls. The power ratings on bulbs for RGBWW is the white light power equiv. RGB LEDs inside are much dimmer. RGBWW strips give off good light levels. I have RGBWW strips on top of kitchen cabinets but not under counter. The WW LEDs give off about 3000K white light but has a nicer look than any bulb I have ever seen. I spent much bucks trying to get colour I could mix with white. It's a waste of time and money. Get the proper white for the location and when you want colours you want them rich and defined. Many cold white is done by mixing RGB and doesn't have the brightness level and looks cheap and thin. Strips are dimmable down to barely lit but not very linear, as your eye perceives it so you end up with about 6 useful levels. 100%, 50%, 25%, 12%, 6% and maybe 1%

A cheap mechanical stat in parallel as a backup set at a frost prevention, might rest your mind.

Yes, The ecobee server has gone down a lot for upgrades and probs but... my ecobee 3 and 4 always reconnect to my WiFi. OTOH My two Venstar ColorTouch T7900 stats have gone down and had to be power cycled over 30 times each in the last 3-4 years, and AFAICT almost every time my router has been reset or had a power blink. Neither T7900 will heal the WiFi connection with the slightest router hiccough. I have almost worn the contacts out lifting the electronics out of the socket and punching them down again. One has finally been retired now and replaced with another ecobee. This has transpired over two different AC1900 routers, three different router firmware suppliers, and a dozen different router firmware upgrades as well as two different router locations, one about 12 feet away just above the Venstar stat still in usage as a monitor.

If WiFi isn't already available an older mobile phone set to provide HotSpot service and a cheaper data only plan could give you a very reliable connection. You would have some battery backup built in to the phone. Ecobee stats heal their WiFi very well after outages. Mine have never missed but other brands need to be power cycled almost every time.

Short cycling can often be due to Electircal grid reclosers on the high voltage lines doing a line protection short outage. This is done to alleviate lightning strikes on the line after they arc to ground so that the system supply doesn't continue to arc in the same carbonised air path. What the user experiences is a short completely dead line and then usually an immediate live line again. If the fault does not clear it will do it again, increasing the outage time to say.....1 second, and then maybe 15 seconds the next time, and then finally give up the third of fourth try. This is real hard on your A/C compressor and will likely damage it usually. Decent thermostats are designed to not allow this. When the power is cycled the stat should lock out the A/C compressor for the minimum on delay time. They all label the setting differently.

A huge dead band on the setpoints is not short cycling prevention and is not related to compressor protection. As I have found with most thermostat support, they have no idea what they are talking about and don't understand the terms, even when you use their exact lingo used in their manuals. Short cycling prevention takes a timer, that survives everything, including power outages, if possible, that prevents the compressor from turning back on after it last shut off. Here's an example. You have setpoints with a 5 degree deadband. The stat just shut off the A/C compressor as you walk across the floor and turn the stat to a lower setpoint because you feel it is too warm in the room. 10 seconds after the compressor shut off you demand A/C again and the compressor turns back on. The pressure of the gases are still high inside the compressor and the compressor motor is slowly turning backwards, as the pressure equalises. Most AC motors will start any which way they turn first, and have windings to ensure they only start the correct rotation. But the motor is still turning backwards and will start backwards rotation direction!! You hear banging and clattering and the fuses finally blow to the compressor. The service man arrives, inspects the system and determines your compressor/motor unit is pooched! Open your wallet for another $2-3K and survive the heat until it arrives and gets installed during peak season. I have my compressor and thermostat on a different circuit breaker. Don't do that either. I had my compressor running from stage 2 cooling on a Venstar Colortouch stat. Don't do that either. Second stage has no compressor delay protection, only the first stage. Get an ecobee.

Glad to help!! I only exemplified what oberkc was trying express above and also fixes apostolakisl's concerns.

Program1 [enabled] If $Geofence-Home is 1 Then run (if) Program2 Else ----- Program2 [disabled] If Status 'Outside / Outside - Garage Light' is Off <---- this will also activate it in an enabled program And From 11:00:00PM <---this will also activate it in an enabled program To Sunrise (next day) Then Disable Program1 Set 'Outside / Outside - Garage Light' On Wait 5 minutes Set 'Outside / Outside - Garage Light' Off Enable Program1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

How many buttons do you want to use? I can see 1 for rotation through all scene levels including off. 2 buttons, one for brighter scenes, and one for dimmer scenes including off X+1 buttons. One for each scene level and also off. X+2 buttons. One for each brightness level scene as well as one for Off and one to resume last setting before Off. X+3 as above plus one for favourite level scene

Ohh. Yeah that. I requested a thermal sensor cut-off for my A/C. When the cold coils get below 38F? the compressor cuts out. I noticed it did cut out a few times at the beginning. I had the fan speed turned down a bit due to ducts howling and rumbling. Since then, I have added plenum insulation, and built a 5" duct muffler, where it was worst. Now the fan is on it's highest speed. The temperature cut-out covered my a$$ in those situations. They are simple to install and cheap. My guess it about $10 and it just clipped into the cold coil fins. It has a built in temperature differential to avoid fast cycling of the compressor should it ever cut-out.

Squirrel cage type blowers cannot be damaged by blocking the air flow. If you block the air flow to this type of blower the air load is removed, the electrical load drops, as there is no air flowing. Most blowers come with a shutter to close off excess airflow so that the motor is sized properly for smaller applications than the blower capability. This is why all vents can be closed with this type of fan. This does not apply to turbine style fan blade types, which are opposite. I had my A/C compressor start backwards once, due to fast cycling. Luckily I was about 15 feet across the yard from it and heard this awful growling sound and it started banging inside the case. I ran over and shut off the safety breaker on the wall beside it. The thermostat had no second stage compressor protection and I had it wired to that stage, with simple fan circulation to bring up cool air from the cold well water I run through my basement floor. Be very careful with this compressor protection. It is important to the health of your system and could cost you big bucks!!

The mats will be 120 or 240vac usually. Smart thermostats that can control high voltage are rare but I think there are a few. I would get the simple stat made for the job and put an Insteon wire in module ahead of it. Then you have full control and the safety the designed for it stat provides so you don't end up charcialing your wood ply underneath. Sent using Tapatalk

I used the motion sensor option. I had trouble with the contact sensor and when I tried the MS it worked so I stuck with it. I created a group of state variables with names like. $sSayGarageDoorsClosed $sSayGarageDoor1Oopen $sSayDryerHasStopped I stuff a 1 in them and then a 0 a few seconds later. Sent using Tapatalk

I found a delay timers likes to find it's way into the settings when building app routines. I think it was trying to be smart and do lamp controlling smarts a favour. Check your routine triggers for creeping delays added.