larryllix

Why don't you post your program doing that here, and maybe somebody can find a hole in it? Right click and the program in the tree and select "copy to clipboard". Paste in a post.

See the list of devices on the left? That is your device tree, found under the "Main" tab in admin console.

Ok. I don't use Polyglot for any bulbs, only my own bridging software so I wouldn't have any feedback. That still doesn't address the brightness levels used by Insteon control. Sent using Tapatalk

Perhaps pseudo devices could be designed so that Alexa thinks it is a device, grouped in each room, and when to asked to "turn on the light" Alexa would be notifying ISY that that room's light be activated. I now have more lights that use WiFi, or other non-Insteon protocols, than Insteon lights, and they do not send any status to ISY. ISY is my main controller and I want to keep it that way to utilise it's logic and control. I also have Insteon lighting that I use with dimmed levels in the wee hours. 100 Watt equiv. bulb in bedside table lamps are not appreciated 100% on. [emoji4] I don't see a way around that without ISY.

OK. so if I am understanding that right. A vocal instructon is interpreted by Alexa, Alexa sorts out groupings and selects a particular light from the generic instruction Alexa turns on this light/device. Here is where it gets tricky. Is Alexa telling ISY to turn on that light? … or doing it under Alexa control, so ISY wouldn't know? ISY could sort out devices in a program to know what room but if ISY gets bypassed, it wouldn't know.

AS something I have never jumped into.... Can Alexa let ISY know which room has been activated, or is this just an Alexa app thing?

As per DennisC above, you should factory reset your switchLincs to erase any links outside of ISY and set them up using ISY. ISY is a good link/scene manager and will make it much easier for any future maintenance. Also, you will be able to control those scenes from ISY programs and peripherals, such as Alexa or Google Home speakers.

Don't want to hijack your thread but on a similar note, the MS IIs are on sale at aartech.ca for a few more days, and I am wondering if there is any particular firmware versions I should be avoiding?

You may have some oscillating program looping rapidly. ISY is pretty quick mostly. Sometimes I/O can bog things down with full caches.

I agree tha Insteon created a good technology for just that reason but... They are missing some newer idea capabilities by not.. creating smart setup applications installing a second linking pushbutton finding a double tap technique using existing PB adding voice recognition for advanced features installing a magnetic sensing switch (most smart meters have one) etc.. etc.. So that they can support more advanced techniques like.....allowing a device to be involved in multiple controller scenes. I would trade Insteon for the world after seeing all the horn tooting about all the other wonderful, kick-***, new protocols that fill the forums with "How come this doesn't work?", two years after their grandstanding release subsides. ZigBee is the latest and greatest, but people actually living it, constantly tell the public how "it is gonna''". I think it may give Insteon a run for it's money maybe in 5-10 years. Zwave is RF only and I just don't ever see RF only working properly inside any metal box, including a receptacle box.I have a completely metal coated workshop outbuilding = total radio silence there. I remember a guy here updating his parents pool control from X10 to Insteon and wondering why it totally flopped. Consisted of about 5-6 Insteon modules inside a 12 x 18 metal enclosure with all the standing waves one could generate almost destroying all their RF transmitters. Note the 1 x 1.5 size ratio? At least now most Insteon modules allow their RF to be disabled and work on powerline only. In short, All protocols have their individual problems and lack of real userbase experience is what sells most of the new ones. I am sticking with Insteon. Yes, I think they are antiquated in places, and very behind in their paying the Chinese creators to design better things for them, but the best I have heard of, by experienced non-vending users, so far.

It seems that Insteon is still designed around the technique of devices creating their own links without any common controller. On that note, I don't know how a device would "tap into" an existing scene as a controller, using simple taps on a single pushbutton. Insteon has never seemed to recognise ISY (or their own Hub) as tools or even existing.

I had a lot of problems as well as parts of the Alexa app missing while running Android 4.x. Somebody finally identified the app info in the Play Store states Android 5.x and higher. I also had many problems with routine recognising non_US spellings but that was for vocal recognition and they always saved OK without any notification of future failures coming.

Sounds like a denial of service attack on the UDP protocol?

On the MS I 7 rapid taps on the linking button would send the dark signal On/Off without any sensing delay. I don't know if they kept that feature. Most didn't know about it. This always helped me test all the features before placing them back on their higher mounting perches.

I agree with that logic but if you have DNS problems then you should try another DNS service to isolate where the problem is. Maybe your ISP is switching things around. Another thought. It may have been a hot summer and I have had problems with two routers now, (AC1900, Netgear and ASUS units) always in the heat of the summer. A/C controls the temperature but they both gave me trouble in the hottest part of the summer. Now they are both mounted vertically. The cases are both terrible ventilation if I lay them horizontal with their 2 core, 1GHz CPUs, and gave me massive problems.

Yeah. That article seems to confuse DNS with DHCP. They are different things. Your DHCP in your router is giving your ISY an IP address when you power it up. That seems OK or you would be able to access it or anything else. The DHCP in your ISP gives your router it's IP address and that seems to be working OK because you can browse the Internet. The problem codes you are seeing 15,0010 etc.. are defined as DNS errors for various protocols, especially email. This means your are asking those IP addresses (@ Time Warner) to translate your email servers name ("mail.universal.devices.com") into an IP address and it doesn't like something (port or security style?) that or is sending something back that ISY doesn't understand. As an experiment, here is what I would try. In your router turn off the "Obtain DNS Automatically" to manual. This asks your ISP for an address of their recommended DNS server = 209.18.47.62 / 63. Thee DNS servers may not even know who "mail.universal.devices.com" is. Now manually enter these addresses in these boxes. 8.8.8.8 and 9.9.9.9 or 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.4.4. You may have to save and /or reboot your router. Try things again. If this does not work, restore the "Obtain DNS Automatically" again and you may have to power cycle your router to get the router re-grab the IP addresses again.

On that same pulldown menu there is also a 'copy to clipboard' for pasting programs here. Careful with the dimmed values. They may not be exact at next program run Sent using Tapatalk

DHCP is your router issuing IP addresses for your LAN, from MAC addresses. DNS is a server, somewhere, issuing Internet IP addresses from a text URL description. Check the addresses inside your router. It may be your ISP, but usually google at 8.8.8.8 or 4.4.4.4. I have switched to 1.1.1.1 and 9.9.9.9 in an attempt to get away from some of the google spying on my life.

Most of us still get caught, coming back years later wondering WTF we did in our own software. Always try to make it easy to understand, if possible. Use commenting at the bottom of programs and you can also inline comment too.

If ( <----------- doesn't serve any function to bracket all lines $Int_1 is 1 And From Sunset <--------can only be true during the timeframe From/To To Sunrise (next day) And Control 'Motion Sensors / Rear Deck South Side-Senso' is switched On <------ top three logic conditions all have to True due to the ANDs Or Control 'Motion Sensors / Patio-Sensor' is switched On <-------Or has a lower precedence and this line is only ORed with te line above and below Or Control 'Motion Sensors / West Gate Motion Sensor-Senso' is switched On <-------Or has lower precedence and this line is included n the OR only ) Then Run Program 'Rear Lights On' (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') I assume you wanted this If $Int_1 is 1 <--------------------master control will enable/disable all triggers. Integer variables cannot initiate programs though. And From Sunset To Sunrise (next day) <---------------------watch out for this one. It will cancel Then running, and run Else And ( Control 'Motion Sensors / Rear Deck South Side-Senso' is switched On Or Control 'Motion Sensors / Patio-Sensor' is switched On Or Control 'Motion Sensors / West Gate Motion Sensor-Senso' is switched On )

FIY. Admin Console has a search and replace function to find device, variable etc. usage . Right click on any program and select it from the dropdown menu.

Can the MS II not send just On signals? Most of us let ISY do the Off timing to save batteries and use higher logic if wanted. The screenshot appears to show an option for that.

Simply put, if you had to install your SSID and password for your WiFi and the receptacle connected to your WiFi then it was transmitted to the receptacle some how. Otherwise why would it demand security details? Ironic to state iOS cannot have an app control the SSID it connects to, and the receptacle could hack into your password under that same iOS. I doubt that is happening. A lot of effort and technology has gone into making these things not easily hackable. I would be sure iOS geofencing apps control thing a lot more than just WiFi connections. The manual that comes with my bulbs and RGBWW strip controllers reads the same method regardless of the O/S. OTOH those original instructions used the manual SSID change method where the user selects a temporary SSID network. The newer apps find the SSID automatically but for me that is only on Android. Maybe do the factory reset again and check your iOS device possibilities. Every other WiFi device, I have used, finds every other SSIDs within a block. I know you have to be within 50 feet of the bulbs when they grow their own SSID servers. I don't know how much grip Steve Jobs still has in your house. Does the receptacle not come with any instructions? Some of mine have a one page withonly the words "www.loadme.com", in the middle of the page. LOL Others came with four pictures marked 1,2,3,4.

I use many WiFi RGBWW bulbs/RGBWW LED strips and a few other WiFi devices. This is how the process works. When the WiFi device is factory reset it creates it's own SSID, usually with a prefix to identify itself like LEDENET12345678. The app knows to look for that SSID from the device and automatically connects your mobile device to it. In the past apps, you had to select that SSID on your app device (mobile phone) manually. Now when you enter the SSID and password, you are installing that security into the bulb/device. IT reboots and connects to your LAN The device or bulb's SSID disappears and your app device (mobile) reconnects back to it's usual LAN connection (SSID) Now your app and bulb are on the same network. Factory reset the receptacle and you should see a foreign SSID again.

Not that I have noticed. Alexa delays do come and go at times. My vocals announcements re hard to tell as I only announce my fryer is done and two garage doors are open or both closed. Not much time comparison there to be noticed.