larryllix

Wait! Soon to be shipped is the PolISY with built in Polyglot server. Get in on the discounts prerelease. Sent using Tapatalk

A MiLight hub can address four bulb addresses. You can address any quantity of bulbs or devices to each MLight group address. To address more MiLight devices, you need a second hub with a new IP address that ISY can talk to. I believe there is a new Hub that can address eight groups of bulbs now. You can use NRs but if you share a NR for multiple bulbs you require a Wait 1 second between each bulb command because ISY only does variable substitution at sending time and your variables may have changed. Using Hue with NRs has the same problem. Polyglot may alleviate some of these problems. My own software does it better without the delays. I have created pre assigned groups and it spreads the command to all bulbs in each list addressed. None of this is seen until using multiple devices. Sent using Tapatalk

MagicHome and most WiFi units do NOT use the cloud. Mine don't. They like to encourage their cloud services but I don't use them. I have 15 bulbs outside and I can animate them with rotating colours at almost any speed. My WiFi talks at almost 1Gbit/second. There are no delays, except if you use PolyGlot. MiLights require a hub every four bulb addresses. Hue bulbs require a hub also. I was about to buy a third MiLight hub when I decided other bulbs were cheaper than a new hub. When I bought my MiLight bulbs they ran about $10 each. That is changing! The MiLight bulbs have better brightness and colour than the Hue bulbs, even the newer ones. I have a Hue Bloom that does all the colours if you like a 2Watt equiv. I spent about $300 on Hue things. Two have been replaced under warranty already. Better interface but all bulbs ramp somewhat...just at one speed. It is overrated as long as they don't jump instantaneously. That is annoying but available on all bulbs for animation apps.

MiLights take a hub for every four groups of bulbs and I see no RGBWW strips for that protocol. By Groups, I mean addresses. So you can have as many bulbs as you want but only ever four different colours or levels at one time. Colours are the best I have seen and very good power output on all colours. Prices were good. I have many in my junk box now. Hue put out many bulbs that cannot do green. Philips tried to create a bulb with only three LEDs inside and without a real blue LED green isn't possible. As a matter of fact, the bulbs cannot do blue either but only an indigo/violet version of blue. They can never match any other brands , giving different colours around the room. I have a about 6 in a junk box now. They require a Hue hub. Easy protocol to work with. Newer versions of Hue may produce all the colours but I don't trust them to be capable until after purchase and returns are not likely. MagicHome bulbs can produce all the colours without any hub. I have 25 Chinese knockoffs, and 10 RGBWW strips, all mostly compatible and very close colouring match. Bulbs were under $10 each. I use custom software on a RPi 3, co-existing with Polyglot. Colours are weak compared to white. Ratings are always for the white LED and colours are whatever power level they feel like. My RGBWW strip controllers can mix white and colours, for pastels, but my cheaper bulbs cannot. The MagicHome protocol has many variations and not all knockoffs may be completely compatible. Some require an On signal to address them before setting colours. Some can do it opposite, avoiding the initial full on flash. With WiFi lighting you end up with an IP address for every bulb. You need a capable router. Unless your software does a keepalive pulse every minute or so, the bulbs will be slow to respond from their sleeping state. This gets annoying when turning on banks of them and may crowd your WiFi airwaves with a lot of units. I thought that mixing colours and white was important. After using many brands I have discovered you just need a good white, suitable for the area (working surface vs. TV watching) and good deep colours. When you turn on colours you want them very deep and intense. Pastels are a waste of effort. Also colours do not show unless they shine against a wall or object. Pots lights in the ceiling are barely noticeable when coloured, unless you looks directly at the bulbs. Above/below cabinet RBWW strips look very good.

IIRC the Alexa commands via ISY Portal bypass the If section. You may have to create programs, invoked by Alexa, that call other programs If sections containing the conditions. You could also make Alexa operate a variable and just watch the variable in your program(s) oooops. one more @oberkc method LOL Use Alexa to control a dummy program and allow the main programs to watch the state of the dummy program. No variables required. I would find this obscure and would not be my preference.

I wasn't referring to this case in particular, with my comment, but was based on general comments I keep hearing from the forum. In view of your simpler, no variable needed logic, that would be the one I would prefer. As I posted, I don't like to use variables for this type of logic but the program logic I posted, was way too twisted and did need to be simplified by more thought. You have demonstrated that well. The last occurrence challenge was a good one.

In the electrical distribution field we have experienced that copper conductors can be taken to a low red hot glow on the pole lines and yet still perform to deliver energy to customers, when occasional crisis situations occur.. With aluminum conductors the resistance to temperature coefficient is exponential and it will evaporate suddenly if abused with overloads. Each metal or alloy type has it's own thermal co-efficient. This makes metal evaporation specs with high currents very hard to predict exactly. Conductor damage curves are not linear and overcurrent protection is calibrated or sized to match these curves.

Yup. There isn't much without v5. Sent using Tapatalk

Careful....CarPort-Sensor' is Switched On never runs Else so your Off command must be in your Then section. Most users disable the MS Off signal to save batteries.

For the CAO Tag I screwed one diagonally to the top panel of the metal door so that it sticks above the metal.This is for better RF transmission and faster motion activation as soon as the door moves from fully closed. The Tag online website includes a Kumoapp section where you can write javascript to send your output data to wherever you want. Mwareman wrote some script to stuff outputs into ISY variables and I made some improvements on that, posting them here each time. I use one of the XYZ axises that changed the most to determine the door was not fully closed. Another alternative would be to use a Polyglot nodeserver designed for this purpose. Here is a thread on setting the Tag code up. It can be cut and pasted into the webpage for your Tag manager setup, then the variable numbers and personalised Tag names you have assigned, can be modified in the code. It should be mostly obvious and help is always here.

While your explanations are much better and less "preachy" this time, I have to agree with most of what you last posted. However, the Leviton Whole House Surge Protector does not have a discharge circuit to ground as it utilizes the Faraday principle, not involving or requiring any discharge to ground. As @apostolakisl posted previously, It is the Faraday cage principle that is important for equipment and humans. If ground is included and connected into the "cage circuit", it can cause the transient damage to be more or less. In my lightning induction case, grounding made the damage worse and damaged my equipment inputs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00081K55Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00081K55Q&linkCode=as2&tag=stejenblo-20&linkId=QG5BWIFQ3UOVTTBG

LOL! Sure! Think of the variable as a counter. The funny part is, I hear people tell me all the time they have never dealt with variables and run away from them, like we were talking advanced calculus on matrix arrays. I guess I spent a lifetime dealing with them since grade four (about 1960) when we studied unknown quantities in arithmetic, and computer wise in 1971 when the first 8 bit CPUs were launched. So I am very biased. People. You can't really break your ISY. It's a playground for experimentation and can be a favourite toy.. If you screw something up, spend about 2 minutes and restore your backup. I just showed my 9 year old granddaughter how to write programs on my ISY using a buzzLinc (thanx Stu), an MS, and three wall Switchlincs. She picked up compound logic using ANDs and ORs with parenthesis, in about 60 minutes and had a riot guessing if her dancing would pass the three wall switch logic to activate the beeper. ISY is an educational toy. Play with it!

I am not sure which one I would prefer. I like programs that don't use variables for this type of logic. (I use them profusely elsewhere) but the first one is more complex in understandable logic. For the variable think of them as a drawer. If one of the condition triggers happens, either sunset or 7:00 PM only open the drawer, look inside and if it is empty, drop a stone (1) into it. If the drawer already has a stone (1) inside it, then take the stone out for next time (=0) and then do whatever you want it to do. You are making sure both conditions have transpired by only marking the first condition when it happens.

I have the myQ system but I screwed a CAO wireless tag to the top of the door and now ISY notifies me via voice and flashes lights when the door us left open. It was the easiest path to install. My other garage door is monitored by an ioLinc and is much faster. I do not control my garage doors. Sent using Tapatalk

You're on the chopping block. Just keep it up.

If ( time is sunset <------- after 7:00 PM AND from 7:00 PM to 11:59 PM ) OR ( time is 7:00 PM <---- after sunset AND from sunset to sunset + 4 hours ) Then ------------- If ( Time is 7:00 PM or Time is sunset ) AND $Variable > 0 <----can't be State type variable or will retrigger program Then set $Variable = 0 do whatever Else set $Variable += 1 You may need a maintenance program for fringe cases If time = midnight Then set $Variable = 0

Forrest Gump comes to mind.

The last two LSs were a defective design were the case cover can never be closed. If you open them from one end instead of the side when you hinge the lid it breaks off the tuning coil and is a dead duck.

I have one LD under my dishwasher and the heartbeat misses about once per year, despite the five year old unit working just fine for years after. I decided to create a monitoring program that resets itself and continues to check the heartbeat and report it in another/every 48 hours. If I was away on a month long vacation I don't want notifications more frequently but I need a reminder for when I get back. Notifications that get sent once tend to be forgotten when I get back. Note: I write all my device monitoring in the positive context so if they show green (running Then) everything is fine. They also get labelled "XXX Ok". Also note the usage of constants so I don't have to guess what the codes are two years from now. A common program monitors the state variables and does the common things using ISY's event based logic engine design. Leak.Kitchen.OK - [ID 0164][Parent 00CD] If 'Kitchen / Kitchen Leak.dry / Kitchen Leak.heartbeat' is switched On Or 'Kitchen / Kitchen Leak.dry / Kitchen Leak.heartbeat' is switched Off <------some units do not use this Then $sLeak.Kitchen Init To $cLEAK.DRY $sLeak.Kitchen = $cLEAK.DRY Wait 25 hours Run Program 'Leak.Kitchen.OK' (Else Path) <-------- display a red icon Else $sLeak.LowBatt.room Init To $cROOM.KITCHEN <------where to look for lowBatt, log in ISY, power blink survivable $sLeak.LowBatt.room = $cROOM.KITCHEN $sLeak.Kitchen Init To $cLEAK.LOWBATT <------- trigger common alarm programs, power blink survivable $sLeak.Kitchen = $cLEAK.LOWBATT $sAlarm.level = 2 <------- ring some local beeper alarms Send Notification to 'Text Larry' content 'Leak Detector Heartbeat Missed' Send Notification to 'eMail Larry' content 'Leak Detector Heartbeat Missed' Wait 23 hours Run Program 'Leak.Kitchen.OK' (Then Path) <------- start over and retest

IMHO: "beta" and "alpha" are very bad labels UDI has assigned every version of v5 so far. It's a non-committal cop out for releases and causing UDI a very bad market reputation, hurting their sales.

Not that I know of. I wrote my own but basically I would copy the Belias programs verbatim and then use the mass change features in Admin Console to swap in sane name for variables, and programs, that mean something to a reader. Then I would create some Integer variable constants to identify codes with sane names. eg: set $sLD.dishwasher = $cLEAK.DRY

Time to bite the bullet and upgrade to the real ISY! This a basic setting that I think was included in v4 but then I haven't used v4 for about 5 years now. I don't use scenes unless I have to.

When you operate a device locally there is no scene involved. It is all internal between the switch contacts and the dimmer electronics. If it is a SwitcLinc then set the switchlinc On level, not an unrelated scene. Ensuite Lights Level.adjust Copy - [ID 001A][Parent 00FA] If From 8:00:05AM To 11:00:00PM (same day) Then Set 'Master Bedroom / Ensuite Lights' On Level 100% Set 'Master Bedroom / Ensuite Lights' Ramp Rate 0.5 seconds Else Set 'Master Bedroom / Ensuite Lights' On Level 20% Set 'Master Bedroom / Ensuite Lights' Ramp Rate 2.0 seconds

With google, they will never let any information go. It might be worth a few bucks someday. You can only unlink your hub account.

Yes. Vocal control is like having a keypad in every room with an infinite number of buttons. Although against my basic principles, I would have a hard time living without it now. The second largest usage for us, with vocal is asking how old some actor is, or what the name of the actor is, while watching movies. Third, is asking outside temperatures and weather. BTW: Alexa now has a skill that supports the CAO Tags now and will report temperatures for my 7 Tags. Recommended!