larryllix

Simply put, if you had to install your SSID and password for your WiFi and the receptacle connected to your WiFi then it was transmitted to the receptacle some how. Otherwise why would it demand security details? Ironic to state iOS cannot have an app control the SSID it connects to, and the receptacle could hack into your password under that same iOS. I doubt that is happening. A lot of effort and technology has gone into making these things not easily hackable. I would be sure iOS geofencing apps control thing a lot more than just WiFi connections. The manual that comes with my bulbs and RGBWW strip controllers reads the same method regardless of the O/S. OTOH those original instructions used the manual SSID change method where the user selects a temporary SSID network. The newer apps find the SSID automatically but for me that is only on Android. Maybe do the factory reset again and check your iOS device possibilities. Every other WiFi device, I have used, finds every other SSIDs within a block. I know you have to be within 50 feet of the bulbs when they grow their own SSID servers. I don't know how much grip Steve Jobs still has in your house. Does the receptacle not come with any instructions? Some of mine have a one page withonly the words "www.loadme.com", in the middle of the page. LOL Others came with four pictures marked 1,2,3,4.

I use many WiFi RGBWW bulbs/RGBWW LED strips and a few other WiFi devices. This is how the process works. When the WiFi device is factory reset it creates it's own SSID, usually with a prefix to identify itself like LEDENET12345678. The app knows to look for that SSID from the device and automatically connects your mobile device to it. In the past apps, you had to select that SSID on your app device (mobile phone) manually. Now when you enter the SSID and password, you are installing that security into the bulb/device. IT reboots and connects to your LAN The device or bulb's SSID disappears and your app device (mobile) reconnects back to it's usual LAN connection (SSID) Now your app and bulb are on the same network. Factory reset the receptacle and you should see a foreign SSID again.

Not that I have noticed. Alexa delays do come and go at times. My vocals announcements re hard to tell as I only announce my fryer is done and two garage doors are open or both closed. Not much time comparison there to be noticed.

The delay is found in the Alexa App on a mobile device only, under routines, in the particular "When" section if you select "Not Detected". For Alexa perceived "motion detectors", it states "When xxx detects no motion for ZZ minutes" in very small font.

Careful with the Routines. I have noticed Amazon likes to slip a programmed delay in any Off detection Routines every time you open them for editing. I have been caught a few times on that Gottcha'

We are confusing order of operations with evaluation order. A quote from that ISY section.

All lines are evaluated every time, then the whole logic is assessed. Trigger lIne order doesn't matter in ISY. As suggested by lilyoyo1, get rid of the status. It may cause oscillations and doesn't make any difference.

Can you post your programs? The light sensitivity shouldn't turn on/off lights.

My ISY Finder always worked that way thorough multiple OSes, and years of different ISY versions. It never found my ISY and I always had to manually enter an IP address for ISY, every version. ISY Launcher works better but is slower and is cloud dependant.

Were you having problems today? A major Internet outage occurred a few times and it may be cloud dependant. This may be an indicator a firewall is blocking discovery. Sent using Tapatalk

There is that but.... Insteon devices already had retry and hop logic and a CPU with hundreds of Links spots inside so an enhancement of the software shouldn't make a smart Insteon device cost any more than a bare RPi Zero. LOL ISY with it's current scene management should be able to stuff a simple and or OR logic into a device and off load some of the load grind onto IEDs. Just think, people with the scene obsession (no names ) would be able to make more things work with an offline PolISY. It could do cool things like security Locking of devices by requiring two switched On commands in a sequence. I guess the Chinese haven't thought of it for Insteon yet.

Scenes cannot perform any logic and your task demands some logic. It will take programs to complete your task. Unfortunately, scenes are required to operate the LEDs in KPLs so programs will be required to operate scenes to operate the LEDs. Insteon was designed to only be a remote control system and not smart with logic. Wouldn't that be something if they installed some simple gate logic inside the SwitchLincs? eg: If xxx is On and yyy is switched on. It could change the game with IEDs (intelligent end devices) distributed around the house.

Welcome to the UDI forums! I can't really completely understand what you are trying to do as the usage of the word "scene" for everything is confusing me. The load connected to the wiring of the KPL is controlled by the HHPD On and HHPD off button/leds and no programs can interfere with that connection. I can't discern what the HHPD Scene contains. To turn on the HHPD LED you have to turn on the load connected. That cannot ever change. I don't see any involvement for a second KPL, Front Door, or Kitchen devices. Are they involved in this logic? Are your KPL buttons HH ON/OFF and PD ON/OFF in Toggle mode or are you doing the toggle function in ISY programs?

There is a way but I have forgotten how to do it. I just use a C for the temperature notifications. If you use the devices themselves the suffix will be automatic.

Race conditions should not be a problem if Integer variables are used as they don't trigger program evaluation.

I addition to what Paul was telling you, most of the conversion errors are marked with yellow? program icons. They knew it wouldn't convert correctly but was too difficult to do it properly or they couldn't trust the result and it has to be done by the human. I converted as soon as V5 came out also and the problems were quite obvious. I had some programs and a few scenes that didn't convert perfectly. Most just had to be OKed by me and saved. Yes. IIRC, V5 added the ability to save device parameters into variables. I can't imagine not being able to save the level of a lamp, flash it as a warning, and then restore it like nothing happened.

Duplicate post

Look for that little right carrot symbol. It opens up pages of different parameters in each program line.

Select all the boxes when you clear java cache.

When the last gmail security change went through I found if the UserID and the From box didn't have the same name it wouldn't send the message.

I don't know of any MagicHome bulbs or I would have some. I have 25 MagicHome compatible bulbs (about $8 each) but they don't support some of the functions like pastel colours. I use my own software and can do some animations at slower speeds. I use LEDenet 5 channel controllers. I love the colours and intensity of the SuperNight strips. I have ordered many from different suppliers and many have different connections so I had to scramble wiring for each unit but they all put out the same colours. Colour matching is important and done by tables in my ISY's variables. The 5m strips come with a connector on both ends. You can cut them in half and use two pieces without doing any soldering. The WW is about 3000K and love the light that comes off them. Good for working but also warm enough for TV watching or deep dimming.

No cloud required for Polyglot or Network Resources controls. The power ratings on bulbs for RGBWW is the white light power equiv. RGB LEDs inside are much dimmer. RGBWW strips give off good light levels. I have RGBWW strips on top of kitchen cabinets but not under counter. The WW LEDs give off about 3000K white light but has a nicer look than any bulb I have ever seen. I spent much bucks trying to get colour I could mix with white. It's a waste of time and money. Get the proper white for the location and when you want colours you want them rich and defined. Many cold white is done by mixing RGB and doesn't have the brightness level and looks cheap and thin. Strips are dimmable down to barely lit but not very linear, as your eye perceives it so you end up with about 6 useful levels. 100%, 50%, 25%, 12%, 6% and maybe 1%

A cheap mechanical stat in parallel as a backup set at a frost prevention, might rest your mind.

Yes, The ecobee server has gone down a lot for upgrades and probs but... my ecobee 3 and 4 always reconnect to my WiFi. OTOH My two Venstar ColorTouch T7900 stats have gone down and had to be power cycled over 30 times each in the last 3-4 years, and AFAICT almost every time my router has been reset or had a power blink. Neither T7900 will heal the WiFi connection with the slightest router hiccough. I have almost worn the contacts out lifting the electronics out of the socket and punching them down again. One has finally been retired now and replaced with another ecobee. This has transpired over two different AC1900 routers, three different router firmware suppliers, and a dozen different router firmware upgrades as well as two different router locations, one about 12 feet away just above the Venstar stat still in usage as a monitor.

If WiFi isn't already available an older mobile phone set to provide HotSpot service and a cheaper data only plan could give you a very reliable connection. You would have some battery backup built in to the phone. Ecobee stats heal their WiFi very well after outages. Mine have never missed but other brands need to be power cycled almost every time.