larryllix

I remember wondering what 388 meant inside certain clothing when I was a teenager. .

I have two RemoteLincs. They have no local indications on them and only send the keypress events. They are somewhat programmable for Toggle operation, dual button On/Off operation, or Independent button operations same as the KPL. I use one spare RemoteLinc (they are both spare since Alexa came) to initiate one of sixteen programs for testing. This was a leftover from a lighting animation I did for a circus tent ceiling once, using sixteen different animation speeds and styles, all controlled through ISY from the RemoteLinc on my person during the festivities.

Insteon Scenes are constantly argued about with people trying to turn them on 40% and wanting a boolean flag that tells them if the scene is still turned on. These are not really possible. Take an example of SceneTest. bulb1 = 100%, bulb2 = 80%, bulb3 = 60%, all with different ramp speeds. Now if SceneTest is turned On and then you adjust bulb3 to 30% brightness, is SceneTest still on or is it off? What if somebody adjusted bulb3 with a different ramp speed? Is it still on? The status of a Scene is not clearly defined as it contains multiple levels and ramp rates of devices to get there. (IN Insteon) The best you can do in you situation is to detect the major devices involved in your scene to determine whether you want to declare it still on or not. Also since dimming levels can vary slightly dues to round off in the math. eg: 99.6% may be considered 100% or 99%. So to be perfect we end up with: If bulb1 > 99% AND bulb2 >= 79% AND bulb2 <= 81% AND bulb3 >= 59% AND bulb3 <= 61% Then -------- So to be lazy you can just detect the level of one bulb or a range allowance for every bulb involved. You have to decide what is considered "On" from the scene remnants. To clarify the bottom lines I never post "Blah...blah....blah!", so the generic statement had to suffice.

Remote Cooking Off - [ID 001A][Parent 0001] If Control 'BRRemote-C Cooking' is switched On Then Run (if) Program 'Remote Cooking Flip' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Remote Cooking Flip - [Disabled] If Main_Scene_Device is its_Cooking_Off_Scene_value <----add as many devices as wanted to positively identify scene is on. AND Another_Scene_Device is its_Cooking_Off_Scene_value Then Set Scene 'Cooking' Off Else Set Scene 'Cooking' On

If you have v5 there is a completely self-contained method of extracting the date and time from inside ISY.

I gave up on that idea and went to having ISY keep track of it's last known time. Then on a power restore I notify myself with the last known time and current time. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Nice! I have to concude that it is the java interface with the video hardware. If you are running 4GHz you must be running some game based system with a fast GPU tie-in. My loads spend most of their time "Creating widgets for X". Only the last 5-10 seconds are shown as "loading the programs". I have about 300-500 programs, about 100 NRs, and 500 variables.

My Netbook, 2.0 GHz single core takes about four times as long as yours. This is based on amount of ISY programs, variables , NRs etc. and the speed of your CPU running the admin console. Mine has slowed down greatly running java apps and is almost too slow to load admin console at all. Total time to edit a program in admin console, about 8-10 minutes now. On a 2.8GHz 8 core CPU this takes about 1/4 that time for about 2-3 minutes total.

If stat.temp < 999 OR stat.humidity < 102% Then $sStat.comm.falied = $cFalse Wait 24 hours $sStat.comm.failed = $cTrue Wait 15 minutes notify Techman "Stat lost comms!" Else ---- You don't need to know what the temperature was, only that temp or humidity changed once per day (or less).

The same thing is accomplished by just creating a change of value heartbeat program and using a Wait for the same time span. Both methods look for a change in value. No temperature or humidity save to variables are needed. OTOH. I recommend v5.

The humidity gets updated every 5 minutes on battery but ISY programming can only detect changes to the value, not that is updated. However if an allowance of say 12-24 hours can be allowed a change of humidity should happen at least once per day. Use SmokeGrub's technique (above) and combine with humidity to reset a time out or time out variable. IIRC saving a parameter field requires V5+

It shouldn't matter if two sources of pullup to 10vdc are paralleled, as long as the pulldown output transistor can carry a few milliamps from each source. It makes sense the lighting or load device provides the 10 vdc supply for a simple rheostat on the wall. Where would the electrician get a source for 10 Vdc inside a switch box anyway? The unit Apostalakisl linked to said it was a 0-10 Vdc output sourced to ground or common. There should no problem parallelling two pullup resistors on a common line provided the polarities are the same. My guess is standards specify the polarity, anyway. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Nice find! Just need en enclosure, a UL/CSA 12-24vdc power supply and a place to put them.

I was thinking of a multiple contact output device...like iolincs x 2 or one of the third party brands. EZxIO?? I can't remember the number. Make a small resistor ladder for on 50%, 25%,12.5% using three resistors. UPDATE: With two output contacts only two dim levels could be handled. 100%, 50%, 25% and Off, four states. With a formC contacts (IOLinc) only one 100%, 40%, Off. If ramping is needed a small capacitor could slide the effective resistance from one level to another.

Is that one single-gang switchbox for all the lights? I was assuming the lights cover the ceilings of a church and would have an input for each fixture, meaning multiple pairs of inputs. I wonder if the live feed from the inputs can be disconnected in the fixtures so that a separate 0-10v supply could be used?

For your application, do you have a cabinet to load equipment into or are you forced into a switch box or octagon box? Is there a central location for all the 0-10V light controls or would the controller have to be in individual locations?

Then don't use the 10Vdc from the lighting device and use your own supplied voltage, observing polarity. A potentiometer only acts a a voltage divider to accomplish the same thing. However if the 10Vdc is live to the electrical supply and the output of the 0-10V device cannot handle the rise in voltage then it's not going to work, or be dangerous. Oooops. Are you saying there is only two terminals/connections for the lighting input and it's permanently alive from an internal source? If so, you would have to disconnect the internal supply. To get a variable resistance output you may have to go to some ardiuno kit/gadget with a variable duty cycle oscillator and filter to simulate resistances.

I don't know what multi-channel means. I have no Zwave and AFAIC Insteon devices have always had multi-channel as I understand the meaning of the syllables.

That would be the only plug-in solution I can see. The 10vdc power supply would have to be an analogue unit without a regulator (good luck finding one of those antiques) and the ISY values would have to compensate for the diode bridge losses at the bottom end. The transformer might hum and/or not like the hacked up waveform coming off the Insteon dimmer. The Insteon dimmer may not like the inductive load either when it injects high frequency switching noise either. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Still sounds like a new router problem. The fancier they get, the more problems come forward. I have three newer style routers and the reason for the latest two purchase were similar problems. The newest one does things like this too. All different brands and they all need cold boots occasionally despite the 15 upgrades and Merlin new and improved, less hangs. firmware. One of the biggest factors I found, almost every summer, is they overheat with the dual core 1Ghz ++ cores. Vertically mounting the last two helped immensely.

The chart shows your blinking LED pattern indicates a poor Ethernet connection. Read suggested fixes from the chart in dbuss's post above. Reboot router, wipe connector contacts by pulling out and push back in. Ping ISY from another computer.

This could be a router problem. I had some problems like that when my router was acting up. Data makes it through most of the time but sometimes you get delays and things give up trying. I have had to power cycle my router a few times where soft reboots haven't worked. May be worth a try.

Welcome to the forum! What frequency do you have the Echo on? Try moving the Echo a few inches. Sometime you get reflections off surfaces. Are you close to an Airport or under s flight path? 5GHz modems must change channels (on most frequencies) if they every hear radar.

Awesome! I love it when a fan comes together!

Not following your wiring completely but it sounds like you connected the fan and lampbulb to the load wire (red = switched) of the KPL. The KPL red load wire should be capped off and not used for the fanlinc controller. It is controlled by Insteon signals only. FanLincs require raw power from the original black wire at the KPL.