larryllix

Double tap down causes the attached load to go immediately Off without any ramp. Any ISY intervention would be after the load turned off.

A double tap sends a Fast On or Fast Off. These are options in programs. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Most use a RPi CPU for Polyglot. Complete instructions can be found on the polglot website. That can be found in some other threads here. The NR module is about the easiest if you can find a screen shot somebody has posted. IIRC the NR module did cost $49 but is offered included as a subscription with the ISY Portal and is the easiest way to implement an Amazon voice appliance....and well done too.

Most of your programs are disabled and I see nothing to call them as a subroutine either. The enable/disable affects the triggers in the IF section. Without a trigger the program will never run automatically. Your variables must be State variables for this to work. You did mention they are but most of us prefix our Stat variable with a small "s" like this $sVariableName.

Polyglot, running on another computer (RPi?) has a Hue Node to make the devices look ntaive in ISY by installing a node for Hue. It was set up originally as as the native parameter style, so I just use NR for mine with colour tables so the variois styles of bulbs all match colours.

How many programs and variable? I am guessing about 300 programs, and 350 variables, for mine. On my smaller 2.1GHz single core 1 min 15 sec to load admin console, with login. 2 min 50 seconds to load programs. Most time is spent creating variable and scene widgets.

I recently thought about switching my Asus to Merlin to resolve dropping the WiFi frequently but after reading user complaints many have reported it did not help the problems. However I did find one thing that has solved my router drop out problems. With the Asus router you can reserve too much QoS bandwidth and when to many QoS app are running the router just shuts down. It runs much better with the automatic QoS (oxymoron) or just shut the nonsense off completely for everything except your VOIP, with minimal bandwidth reservation, as needed.

I have a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900. The ventilation with them sitting horizontal on a table doesn't seem to be adequate for summer months and mine overheated. This caused me a lot of grief for a long time trying to find this problem. I finally placed a CAO Tag on the surface of the router, and every time the temperature hit 42C my LAN started crapping out. My printer would stating warming up doing it's self-checks and devices would disconnect and heal etc.. If you can keep it cool enough it's a great router. I also found the antennae are not sufficient to turn on the 5Gz and 2.4GHz to 100% simultaneously. It now works much better at about 25 or 50% with much better range on the 5GHz, strangely enough. From what I can figure the signals must be overloading the capabilities of the antennae system. I had so much trouble with this router I bought an Asus to replace it. I thought it was the power supply crapping out but when I would change PSs it would cool down and work for a few days again. I have it back working again now and it works fine in the winter or if I keep a stream of air through it in the summer. It really needs to be mounted vertically due the bad ventilation design when horizontal.

Mine does that very frequently if I have two devices with the same words in the name. It seems if Alexa can't make out the second word absolutely it favours the first one only. Usually saying exactly the same phrase gets it.

With 18 of them operating here, I have no Insteon problems and no filters. If you don't want RGB, then just turn on white. You can get JUST white strips and you might save $1-2 on them. A smaller PS might be used but I doubt they are any cheaper. I never turn off my power supplies. I would have to reach behind cabinet or climb on counters to get at the plugs. They are all switching supplies so they draw next to nothing when off. I measured all the power draws for this and posted it about a year back. If you want neat appearance and waterproof, I wouldn't cut these strips into segments. Just bend them around the corners and tie wrap them to the frame. Some rounding will be necessary to not break the PCB inside.

admin/admin should work after the Factory Reset you just did. Try powering down your ISY and PLM again. Power up the PLM first and then after about 15 seconds power up the ISY. Try again. You programs and setting will be gone. I hope you have a backup.

I play with my programs frequently, but in view of the 15-25 minutes to boot the admin console and run the backup, I try to backup after major changes and maybe once per week, if I am in that computer location. UPDATE: OK I exaggerated for my faster 8 core machine. I timed it this time... ... it took 45 seconds for admin console to load, and 3 minutes 20 seconds for backup to save the file, total 4:05 I don't use my slower machine for backups as the times listed initially are just too brutal. Love that XML! I have been caught with an out of date backup once and it wasn't fun.

ISY firmware v5.* has other options to generate a date without year internally and self dependant. However v5.* is beta software yet. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17157-more-flexibility-in-schedule-setup/

Sounds like you might have missed the "Controllers' part of the setup advice.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19913-magic-ufo-controller-for-rgbw/page-1?do=findComment&comment=189572 See new post #199

Two Outback 3.6kW inverters with no problems.

Use the old cable installers trick. Coat the splice point with silicone grease or caulking and slip heat shrink over it. Now apply heat and the silicone oozes out for a hermetic seal that is good underground for...well they haven't failed yet. Many of the phone companies splices come that way. they crimp, snap together and bury it.

IP 67 rated RGBWW LED strips are completely sealed in a rectangular crosssectional silicone tube. Run them into a sealed wiring box with some hole sealant and run the cord out of the box with a cord sealing grommet. Many of these controllers are WiFi now and that would give you some festive options from a cell phone app or your ISY NR module. RGBW strip (5m) $12 Controller $12 Connectors $3 Power Supply 12v 3-5A $12 Electrical box $25 Grommet $1 Prices are aproximate.

Yes, I agree it is a very cool project. A little envious, as I did many projects like that in my past, and have a lot of respect for what he did.But these things are changing very fast and you can end up re-inventing the wheel. Been there done that too. Ramping and other features would be cool but, as I have found in the 5 channel units the little CPUs don't have the horsepower to do too many fancy things. The 5 channel units have a slight ramp built in, but when it is happening, the controller CPU does not answer the http: call and your supervising software now has little delays in it. This really destroys the smoothness of animations going on. Better hardware inside the controllers (like timer interrupts) would be nice to accommodate these drools. I am doing some ramping in my software for throbbing effects but with my test 10 units and Ethernet WiFi I see some strobing going on, where they get out of sync. Not a bad effect, in itself, but it demonstrates the delays can add up. Inside each controller is definitely the place to do it = distributed intelligence, if it can be done. The 5 channel units have built in effects...about 22 of them. Strobing with about 5 single colours, seven colour strobing, fading, and some fades between the major colours. You can see the jags in the ramp, somewhat. In the end, after thinking I was going to do all these eefcts in my house I realised I do none for HA. It's annoying. But I have another 18 of them I am creating animations with, not for my house though. Cripes! I don't even mix colours after replacing all my MiLight controllers fof not being capable of mixing pastels. As you develop you question yourself and sometimes it become clearer you are wasting your time... but having fun.

That's really cools stuff but no IoT is required. Most HA people are trying to avoid that option. Programming microcontrollers is not required. ISY is already all that and then some. When my garage door is open one RGBW flashes red and returns to whatever it was once the garage door is closed. I have five other bulbs across the wall behind my television that flash red in a wave across the front wall at midnight each night, if we are home, as a reminder to go to bed. When I ask my Alexa boxes for Movie Lights multicolours all appear around the room as well as some white overhead ones, very dimly. These are all http: protocol items driven by ISY programs sending http: protocols via ISY NRs. This is what ISY can already do. @Scott. NRs send http, https, TCP, UDP and a few other protocols with option variations for each. NR is the firmware module that can do all these. You are already sending http: packets to your UFO RGBW strips controllers from your ISY as well as your other system and the handheld remote? and mobile phone app.

Oh I agree we have a lot of fun challenging ourselves with programming, but http: is the protocol the UFO and 5 channel LEDenet units use already. For somebody that doesn't have anything yet, and wants general lighting with White. I love these controllers. They blast WW (3000K) in my room like a hospital operating theatre, and yet dim down to 1% (barely visible) in any colour I could want and very rich colours, not like my first $200 worth of Hue bulbs.

Nice project but.... This seem like an awful lot of work to save about $2-3 for a 4 channel unit instead of a 5 channel unit that already accepts http: commands directly. Not that anybody would use the 5th channel for RGBWW. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4A-5CH-5CH-RGB-WW-CW-LED-WIFI-Controller-IOS-Android-Smart-Link-Timer-DC-12-24V-/232301057166?hash=item361638d48e:g:ZSgAAOSwls5Y7x0L I bought many of mine for $11 Canadian, about $8 USD.

Just send whatever R/G/B/WW/CW bytes you want it to be. There are effects and a speed control for them but mostly useless. I have discovered the brightness levels work well with the squares of 0-10 for a nice small stepped ramp. I am using python3 so don't try this at Home ISY. In view of the constrants you shouldn't need more than off, dim, med, bright anyway.

That's exactly what I described and almost every effect / action can fall into. Program Water.initiater If ...trigger conditions (could be a list of daily times) Then ....Wait a while to be sure ....run program water cycler (if) ....disable self (optional with same below) Else .... Program water cycler (disabled) If ....lots of water needed (based on brightness and/or wind/temperature conditions etc. ............................. Outside humidity maybe best) Then ....disable Water.initiate ....turn on water ....wait 5 minutes ....turn off water ....wait 55 minutes ....enable Water.initiate Else ....disable Water.initiater ....turn on water ....wait 1 minute ....turn off water ....wait 4 hours ....enable Water.initiater

What connection method and software are you using to flash the eprom inside? This unit appears to be the same unit Scott (Mr. Cool White) has been playing with lately. His supports WiFi and iR input and was really cheap.