larryllix

You should be able to simplify the first two programs into one simpler one. Then add the Run Program(If) line suggested by KeviNH above to restart the disabled sequence again. Garage Man Door left open - [iD 0054][Parent 0050] If Status 'Garage Small Door-Opened' is On <---off will run Else and stop Then And Status 'Garage Small Door-Opened' is not Off <---not required for status Then Wait 1 minutes 30 seconds Repeat for 9999 times Wait 30 seconds Send Notification to 'email' content 'Garage man door left open' Send Notification to 'Pushover' content 'Garage man door left open' Else ----- It runs the If and depending on the outcome runs the Then or the Else section of code.

Definitely all possible. We used thinwall or flex, as ground, a long time ago, though. It had to be run with metal studs for some time. The colours could definitely be nice to identify wire usage and he stated there was conduit and if the price was right? We'll see if the neutral is blue though.

On the fancy high-powered pig amp. Stu is playing Ew I need my mo - dem, 'cause it's time was due. Hope you send it Sunday, My house is manual too. Pack it! Send it! Drone it! Drop it! Ain't got nothin' but Z-wave Eight days a week!

Thanks Michel! After monitoring it for a few weeks I have substituted it into my official outdoor temperature now. It works well and cuts one sensor out of the formula when the sub shines intensely as it gets affected. If one ever fails things should just carry on without it.

Look at the conductor colours. Somebody brought home control cable from an industrial job and wired their own house. Whether the switches are wired into the neutral is about to be established. Stu told him to take the wires off for a retest.

Note: the box you are working in may contain wiring from another circuit breaker and should not be connected to other than the bare ground conductors. You would be mixing up circuit feeds and could result in problems or dangers later. These wires may still be alive the whole time you have your circuit breaker turned off. In the 'soon to be defunct" switch box...we'll call that the "remote box" At the remote box, there must be a third orange wire coming in and connected to another wire/cable. That will be your lights/load. Keep it connected together. If this is not so then do not proceed further. More information is required. At the SWL box, this wire should be connected to the black screw on the switchlinc box end switch. Transfer that wire to the SwitchLinc red wire. In the same cable going to your lights/load (above) there should be another wire (hopefully white) connected to the incoming neutral wire. This needs to have one of the oranges attached to it, marked with white tape at both ends and connected to the SwitchLinc white at its box. The blue wire at the remote box end is your hot wire and needs to be connected to the last orange wire going to the switchlinc and connected to the switchlinc black. This should isolate the old switch. Your remote devices should now be completely free of wires. Pull the gapping tab out on the switchlinc and position the switchlinc so you can poke the ohmmeter into to the cap on the switchlinc white wire to ground on the box. Repeat this with the switchlinc black wire to ground. If you read close to zero ohms on the white and much higher on the black wire all should be good. If they are reversed you need to reverse the two white and black wires to the orange wires. Don't forget to transfer the white tape! Before turning this on Perhaps Stu could put his two cents worth in here as he is more experienced at this and may be able to see a flaw or a better method. I am concerned the feed has not been disclosed yet (first instruction) and there may be a safer way to reveal the wiring structure. EDIT: Looking at your pictures again, reading about your voltmeter reading hot at the black screw of the switch, and seeing no other wiring in the remote box... ....this appears somebody has thrown a three way switching arrangement into the neutral of this lighting circuit. This is not going to be according safety code from any method I can figure out, as yet.

Move your nightly query to 4:00 AM.

Does the defunct switch function with the lights yet as a 3way system? and is the switch beside the defunct one completely defunct already? oh and do you have a voltmeter?

Stu. Is it permitted to tape mark orange conductors white, black and red in the US? In Canada the white tape wouldn't pass for neutral. Must be "marked continuously down the length" or some wording like that. I think I have seen armoured cable with all oranges in it once. HVAC? Can't remember where though. BTW: Look at the wire colours used in the last posted photo. Somebody used control wiring cables to wire a house. I have some but only for solar panel DC purposes.

I have always hated dynamic pulldown menus that make things disappear. I have spent more days of my life looking for menu items that "I know" were there. The old grey out of the unapplicable option works much better for me, but limits the length of options at so many points in working with the app. Need bigger screens! 55" not enough.

Ouch! In the end you need a permanent hot and neutral on the SwitchLinc. The load wire has to go to the SWL red, grounds attached, and all others have to get capped for safety. Be very careful of this if you don't know where the feed is. Use a voltmeter to test all wires before and after switching the breaker off. Test the voltmeter first to make sure it is working and on the right scales. If no voltmeter is available, make sure the light is on before flipping the breaker and then make sure the light is off under any position. Two lamps for indication reliability is better.

It doesn't sound normal/possible but.... I only have one KPL and avoided understanding all the nuances of their options so we need some of the KPL gurus like LeeG, or Stu to chime in here.

Confused by your report. Would your Trip Program have a random time trigger built into it by you? Are you thinking the 3:00 am query somehow triggered a false from your KPL? If not associated why did you mention the KPL? Is there another program running you are concerned about?

Thanks! That is the way I have always done it. I have never seen this option before since it doesn't ever exist in the device rightclick pulldown menu. The device must be removed from any folder first.

I use about 8 scenes in my Gathering Room. They all have numbers assigned to them with 8 different programs that trigger when a number is inserted into the controlling variable. If $sGathRm.mode = $cMODE.TV <---variable set to some permanent number Then set TV.scene On To turn the scene on I insert this line in any program: $sGathRm.mode = $cMODE.TV and it magically just happens. Some of the triggered programs contains dozens of line setting 12 coloured Hue and MiLight bulbs on with various colours along with the Insteon scenes for regular lights. Programs can test the control variable for what scene is on at any moment.

Yup, we are talking about different replacement procedures here.

That what I always figured, too. Leave the old stuff behind. The newbie is flabergasted by the cool technology. The oldie is drooling over getting new technology 'cause he knows better now.

Must be that NY accent but we are both on the side side of the equator. When you replace XX with something else, you get something else and XX goes in the garbage. No?

This is a program I created to stabilise inputs from more than one source. Any "wild" sensor inputs get cut out of the calculation. Operation the last known working average is kept for comparison purposes during the next iteration. a constant $cAVERAGE.DEV.MAX variable is set to the allowable deviation limits for a sensor to be considered "bad". I have set mine to 2.0 degrees for this purpose each input is compared to the last known average and the absolute value compared to the allowable deviation factor. good sensor readings are tallied and used to calculate the new average if all values are outside the maximum deviation then a completely new average is created from all sensors. Benefits gives a more stable resultant detects and isolates any sensors gone bad or "out-of-range of the crowd" readings. gives a contributor count that can be used for other purposes. eg: Temperature variance detection for circulation. fan operation from indoor temperature sensors I have a temperature sensor mounted up under a PV array and the oven effect gets disallowed every late morning with this program. this can use as many sensors as available to further stabilise the resultant output. Just add more lines of program code. ISY is fast. No delays can be noticed and lots of repeats allows other processing to occur during the calculations. Negatives based on slow changing sensor values like temperature readings from thermostats and probes. Sudden value jumps may disrupt the process. all three sensors outside the past average results in including all three sensors to start. This may not be the best algorithm for some cases. we sure could use an inline If/Then construct in v5. ----------------------------------------- Sync.outTemp.average - [iD 00FE][Parent 0101] If $sTag3.temp < 40 Or 'Gathering Room / GathRm VenStat' Sensor < 45.0° Or $sWC8.outTemp.raw < 450 Then $Average.sum = 0 $Average.contrib.cnt = 0 // sum inputs within dev.max of past average and keep count $Average.deviation = $sWC8.outTemp.raw <--WC8 board ships to ISY x 10 integers only $Average.deviation /= 10 $Average.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $Average.deviation < 0 <----- calculate the absolute value 2 lines $Average.deviation *= -1 <----- make a negative, positive Repeat While $Average.deviation <= $cAVERAGE.DEV.MAX $Average.sum += $sWC8.outTemp.raw $Average.sum /= 10 $Average.contrib.cnt += 1 $Average.deviation = 999 <-----terminate the Repeat loop Repeat 1 times $Average.deviation = 'Gathering Room / GathRm VenStat' Sensor ° $Average.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $Average.deviation < 0 $Average.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $Average.deviation <= $cAVERAGE.DEV.MAX $Average.sum += 'Gathering Room / GathRm VenStat' Sensor ° $Average.contrib.cnt += 1 $Average.deviation = 999 Repeat 1 times $Average.deviation = $sTag3.temp $Average.deviation -= $sHouse.outTemp Repeat While $Average.deviation < 0 $Average.deviation *= -1 Repeat While $Average.deviation <= $cAVERAGE.DEV.MAX $Average.sum += $sTag3.temp $Average.contrib.cnt += 1 $Average.deviation = 999 // none worked, get all new Repeat While $Average.contrib.cnt is 0 $Average.sum = $sWC8.outTemp.raw $Average.sum /= 10 $Average.sum += $sTag3.temp $Average.sum += 'Gathering Room / GathRm VenStat' Sensor ° $Average.contrib.cnt = 3 Repeat 1 times // finish calcs with what we got $Average.sum /= $Average.contrib.cnt $sHouse.outTemp Init To $Average.sum $sHouse.outTemp = $Average.sum Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

When replacing variables or devices I always add and XX suffix to the end of the old device's name. When doing the replace it is easy to get the correct device and not make mistakes Replace kitchenSwitch XX with kitchenSwitch. Don't forget that scenes have to have devices removed and replaced with the new, as LeeG pointed out, in case that wasn't clear.

If v5++ is being used, I wrote some accumulated time functions that work well by calcs with the ISY "seconds since midnight" feature. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17366-v5-tracking-fan-cycle-runtime/ This could also give you a daily report of the, length of run, from the sun.

In our first home I filled it with X10 devices. I removed some of the wallswiitches but just couldn't live without a few of them so we listed and showed the house with the X10 switches still in the wall. Mostly they were plug-in modules. After the sale, during the long closing period, I wanted the devices to go with me so I found some of the old small rocker switches to replace the old and similar X10 pushbutton types. They were obsolete by that time and hard to find. When closing day came, I was in a panic as they had bargained in a final inspection, the last day. This was a new thing just starting up in our area. The new owner woman came in the hallway, and went right to the X10 switch that wasn't there, and asked what happened to the switch. I explained it was part of the security system (BS - well sort of) and if they wanted it I could replace it, but they wouldn't know how to operate it anyway. She came back with something like "Good! I was having nightmares for the last four months about those strange electrical gadgets in my house and would have had to hire an electrician to take them all out!" YMMV

To clarify further (maybe). It the indented lines after the Repeat 1 time that gets executed once. "Repeat" is not syntactically correct. Read as "Do 1 times" Then Set Scene 'Night Time Mood Dim' On Repeat 1 times Set Scene 'Night Time Mood Dim' On

Post the programs. You may have a quirk in your negative logic that stops the program process. Right click on program and "copy to clipboard"

Are we sure the lights were on in the first place? Could be more Insteon comm problems.