larryllix

Ahhh, I see, and thanks for that. That explains how they get so many functions over just a few conductors. In effect this makes the wall mounted controls the same as a remote, but with copper instead of the radio transmission medium. I figured we are talking about connecting across the hardware pushbutton component. This would be a similar technique as soldering into the remote, then.

I guess I don't knw why any garage opener pushbutton cannot be paralleled with an IO/Linc contact. The IOLinc contact needs to be normally open and temporarily provide a closed contact to the operator. Makes sure you have used the N/O contact on the IOLinc and that the closure is temporary, as in a short pulse, similar to the length of time you lean on the pushbutton. There is a duration setting and a pulse setting in the options. About 0.5 to 1.0 seconds should work. Of course, your ISY program has to support this ON/Off pulse. Other than that, make sure you are not connected to the MS, light or lockout contact wires in the control console. I had a Genie and moved. Now I have a Chamberlain rebranded but never have wired up control to either. I only monitor door position until this ALL ON nuisance is resolved. Never had one of those either,

What exactly doesn't work? The status/sensing or the control of the operator? Is this a transfer of an IOLinc to another location or just a change of opener?

Think about this as an analogy. You are listening to somebody's heartbeat. When you hear one you notify somebody that the person's heartbeat is missing.? Not quite making sense? You need to make use of the retriggerable aspect of ISY programs using a WAIT timer. The heartbeats are yelling "I'm alive!, I'm alive" ....so you give the person 5 more hours and if he doesn't yell "I'm alive" again now notify somebody.

Need a small platform to raise the engraved part of the switchlink paddle so you can engrave it on the inside, and fill the groove with crayon etc. You would have to flip the words left for right though. hmmmmm... only KPLs have backlights though. This would protect the engraved parts from finger wear and also ...are you ready for it......? <see program below> If copyright police are 'Here' Then set KPL button LEDs 'Off' Else ----

Cool, but I like to read on the can. I wonder if there is options? I was thinking of a cloud service. Send a simple photo of anybody, from the back, (think.. seat webcam = live) that exposes a certain amount of skin tone and send the photo off to a cloud service with "Operators now standing by!" Then after their viewing the photo and making their decision, they send an ISY REST response URL to my IP address telling my ISY the gender! We have to be careful being politically correct and not insensitive in our picking of 0 and 1 to specify which gender is which, though. What think?

Not to drag this too far into thread.abuse, but.... (Note:one "t") If I am going to install a hydraulic operator to put the seat up and down, I would need some sort of detector, to remain a true HA purist. That brings up the question. Does anybody have a sensor that can detector the difference between genders? Photos? OK...that's enough... my bad on this thread! I looked at those engravers and have a few comments. $84...wow! really cheap! ...and I wanted one. hmmmm... new women's fingernail tattoos? "Hold still Honey!" 25-50 business days for shipping? Wow! three months? Yuk! Laser is available in 500mW and 1000mW. This looks like the 1000mW may be much more useful and faster but there may be an importing consideration and part of the reason for the 500mW unit. Laser pens over 500mW may have to be licensed and stopped at the border if caught. My son had one in a laser pen and it could burst black balloons from across a room, no problem. When pointed at a stop sign about 0.5km away it looked like an arc welder in the dark. We could see it light up a tower 10-12km away. Scary things!

Note the phrases in Red! You adjust the Scene labelled the signal originating unit and that become confusing and sometimes hard to find on the pulldown. IIRC you have to scroll UP on the pulldown to find these pseudo Scenes. MBR Lamp Level.adjust - [iD 0084][Parent 00FA] If From 10:30:00PM To 9:30:00AM (next day) Then In Scene 'Master Bedroom / Motion.MBR' Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' 15% (On Level) Else In Scene 'Master Bedroom / Motion.MBR' Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' 70% (On Level)

There are better ways to adjust the preset brightness on the dimmers. I will attempt to post my method shortly.

As per Paul above, I believe UDI has found a faster method to process device handling and only certain devices have had their software technique updated to the new method, since it is such a vast job and device personalities vary so greatly. One coding doesn't fit all. In a future revision all (old) methods may disappear .

Not sure about a man in a kilt or the Ellen Degeneres outline, though.

Nothing mentioned like that in the instructions. But they do mention a large (5HP) motor rating, unlike the nameplate. SH did a lot of that, put out heavy-duty switches that couldn't switch a motor load like a dryer.

Nice! I have no ZWave. I was wondering if you just hung it off the wires. That may be dangerous to have unprotected wiring to suit the environment. The advertisiment dooesn't show the wiring connection style.

Did you mount it in a plastic box or how did you protect the wiring to follow safety codes? I assume that zWave would not communiucate from insdie a metal enclosure.

Sounds like a contactless combination. Use the triacs as just switches and caps to drop voltage without heat. This would be substantiated by the hearing of a slight hum, unlike a simple wave-chopping dimmer that you would hear a lot of hum on a fan motor. As always, thanks Brian!

Yeah, I am guilty of not reading the thread subject header.. Disregard my previous post.

I think if you are an electronics buff you could make the 244TH work anywhere but it may take some ferrous toroid's and MOVs to take out all the spikes and such generated by HVAC equipment coils. The 2441TH wasn't really ready for the market it was being sold for. I have realised that every new smart thermostat has problems that need to be resolved. YMMV The last quirk I found was the ecobee3. Awesome stat but heavy A/C load heats the triac relay up and makes temperature swings up to 8 and 10 degrees. Ecobee's tech support fix? Add a buffer relay in your furnace to reduce the current draw. Nest's get firmware updates and can hang on reboot and users cannot stop it. The list goes on. The Venstar has problems too but works quite well with a very particular installation. They all produce too much heat and have to be fudged. when a breeze comes they become very inaccurate. Mechanical types never had this problem. Ecobee3's remote sensors can fix this problem somewhat.

ISY controls both my Insteon thermostats natively and my Venstar thermostats with an RPI and Nodelink. I don't need to use anything else so whatever controls ISY can control those.

Nice! You're hooked!

Are FanLincs three switched contacts and capacitor voltage droppers, or are they just a dimmer circuit triac using three presets?

It wasn't a question of ISY sensing the Elk status points, it was whether the status points are trigger and status points or just status points. If this difference isn't clear let me try another angle. Lets say you walk past your MS 10 times in 1 minute and ELK notifies ISY.= the light stays on. Does ISY get notified 10 times or just once?

I am not sure if the Elk interface to ISY produces trigger actions or just provides status but if triggers are available then something like tis may fit the bill: If control MS.A is switched On AND control MS.Hall is Not switched On Then Set Light.A On Wait 120 seconds Set Light.A off Else Set Light.A On Wait 30 seconds Set Light.A off If Elk only provides a status for the MS units then something else will need to be worked out.

I was just about to say the same as Teken using a SwitchLinc. Some of the quirks. - fast on would turn on the lamp full when controlling the fan speed. - fast off would turn the lamp off when controlling the fan speed. -dim and brighten could be used be would mess with the lamp brightness Capping off the load wire from the Switchlinc could avoid most of this. I would probably use the On/Off to control the lamp and the Fast On/Off to control the fan. The lamp could have 0, 50, 100% from the On tap with ISY The fan could have Off, low, med, high from the Fast On tap with ISY Strangers (as per Teken) would be able to intuitively operate the lamp but only trained people would know how to operate the fan.

MSes don't work well for sit-still areas. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk