larryllix

You will find MobiLinc and other remote apps will cut the names off at the last an actual name of devices. No folder will be shown so another technique is usually used. I don't use any deeper than two folders and my devices include the folder name in their names ie. Utility Rm/MS.lowBatt.Util, MBR/MBR Lamp, MBR/MBR Lamp.auto This way when the remote apps sort them alphabetically similar functions can be found on one page. I seldom would want all devices in a room to be on the same page when mobile even though I file them on ISY by room for programming and development usage. When I get a text message about a low battery, I want to see all 10 MS units n one page for investigation. Similarly when something moves in my house while away I want to see all the MS programs one page. This is based on experience with false MS triggers. If somebody was in my home more MS units would be triggered and I need quick access, not time consuming page changes.

Yes. very good points! I have seen people using the =+ 1 program line to make a 0 into a 1. That is also a dangerous construct due to the reasons stated by Stu above. Note: OP used the opposite logic so $PoolHeating is not 0 would match the OP program.

You have to write a program to receive the Fast On command from the SwitchLinc. There would be no point in sending it a Fast On because it only has one speed and no dimming facilities. SwitchLincs can produce six different commands.

Unless the halogen is one of these 12v bulbs (MR-16) that goes into a can with a ballast that can't be dimmed.

IIRC there was a discussion about non-dimming SwitchLinc devices and they still produce Fast On commands, They just can't dim and may not respond to them...... but ISY will.

Yes, it should resolve that problem but the variable is still the loose cannon as it can shut off your pools heat if it changes. Do you have any ISY REST hits from other devices or mobile apps that hit on ISY variables etc.? If your variable became 0 and stopped your pool heat cycler it should have shown up and notified you. Also when the variable became true again the pool het cycler should have self-started again??? as long as it is a State variable. That would be the final check. You sure the variable is a State variable. This could all be resolved by it being an Integer variable type... please?

I just noticed the title of the thread using "State Variable" ...ooops! I denote my state variables with a prefix $sVariable, my Integer variables with nothing, $Variable, and my constant variables as $cVariable. Many others use this style $s.variable and $i.variable. These techniques help to keep the confusion down when reading programs, a year later. Back to topic: You still need to find out what is causing your program and probably the variable to change.

What is controlling the control variable $PoolHeating ? If you enable the run at Initialisation, would the variable condition be true at that point because the IF sections is run and the logic needs to be true at the same time. If the logic fails your loop will never run until you change the variable. If the variable is not a State variable there is no trigger for the program, ever, and the program will not run Then or Else. I have always been very leery of programs that don't retrigger automatically. There are too many sneak factors that can make them fail, as you may be discovering. With absolute times you can also be sure the pool will be the best temperature when you need it. ...and the program will always self trigger despite unseen circumstances for the variable and/or program. HeatPool - [iD 0039][Parent 003E] If { time is 12:01 AM or time is 6:01 AM or time is 12:01 PM or time is 6:01 PM } AND $PoolHeating is 1 Then Set 'Pool Equipment / SupplyValve' Off Set 'Pool Equipment / ReturnValve' Off Set 'Pool Equipment / Polaris' Off Wait 1 minute Set 'Pool Equipment / FilterPump' On Set 'Pool Equipment / PoolHeater' On Wait 2 hours Set 'Pool Equipment / FilterPump' Off Set 'Pool Equipment / PoolHeater' Off Else -----

Yes it should but if your variable ever glitches Off/On the cycle will be broken. I would add some times triggers to your If section, also to ensure retriggering after power cycling and other unfortunate cycle stoppers. I would also use andyf0's method (lose the last recursive line) as it is more structured and apparent approach.

Very nice! Sounds like the best plan so far, inside the house with the IOLinc = no wall penetration, standard parts =very little fabrication for those not so inclined, minimal interference with existing function, and no electrical warranty voiding or electrical safety hazards. Bravo Apostolakisl ! Note: Plastic venting parts may not be approved for gas appliances (I see no mention of restrictions even on lowes.ca) but gas dryers can just take a SynchroLinc plug-in for their 120vac requirements.

OK Thanks for that. I misunderstood it was a clamp-on sensor. Doing some research I have come across a clamp-on water flow sensor but the 1/2" model has a lower measurement limit of about 1.0 gpm, way too high for my purposes. Looks like it would take a connect inline unit with the paddle wheel. Rollin'... rollin' ....rollin' on the river.

Obviously you can't have a "clamp-on" with water shutoff features but do you have links to the clamp-on versions? The Water Hero website only lists three other models that get soldered or threaded inline with the pipes. It would be good to detect water flow in an existing pipe to resolve an elusive (8 years now) problem that I have with a tankless water heater system.

I doubt wiring any light fixture without a switch, or some other air gap device, would pass electrical code and can be dangerous when you have to change a light bulb.

Are you using a condition in your "If" section based on the status of the light you are controlling?

That looks much better. A small housing of bent aluminum on top of the vent to conceal a sensing contact and wires leading in through a small sealed hole through the house wall would look pretty professional. If the housing was bent to look approximately the same shape as the existing vent cover it would not even be noticed. I haven't used that style of dryer vent for years. Most went to the multiflap style to prevent lint clogs. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.provent-dryer-vent-kit-with-ul-listed-duct-4-inch.1000502400.html OTOH, I have seen birds lift those flaps and fly into the dryer and bathroom exhaust vents to nest without even slowing down and yet they are almost impossible to lift with your fingernails. Yeah, I had big problems with that when my last house was new.

Do a search in your programs for occurrences of the notification raw text. We know it came from ISY to get text with that exact wording. Perhaps your logs may show something. I am not familiar with the logs capabilities but there should be something recorded. You may find some old lost program you experimented with when you set up the notifications? Some other program may have been switched to the notification in question, through a miscued deletion of some kind , but the search should find that one.

Most of the drier vents these days are run in a flexible spiral wire bound with plastic or aluminum. A flapper mounted inside the pipe could have a small rare-earth magnet mounted on it and be detected on the outside of the pipe with a reed contact or even a GDO kit. An IOLinc would be needed, anyway, to get it the Insteon level anyway. With a gas drier it wouldn't be good to play with the CO2 venting and the pipe would be made of solid aluminum or some other more substantial metal. The magnetic flux may have trouble penetrating the solid aluminum and the gas vapours may "dissolve" the metals used in the flapper so select metals would need to be used etc..

If you are having success with an outside of your LAN address (via Internet) here is what I did, Open the Amin Console and when the "ISY Finder = Not found" box opens, quick click on the "Add??" button (before it continues and loads the AC) and a text box input will popup. Enter your LAN address and port for your ISY and click "save". This may take a run or two to memorise where the button is to beat the software in action. Now, every time you run the Admin Console and the ISY Finder pops up you will have to double click on the URL (IP address) of your choice.

Here is what I did in my previous house to grow grass seed. Later several neighbours commented about how fast the seed grew (impressed) I gave the soil shots of water every hour depending on how many MS sensors detected light (analogue brightness from digital signal count) so I wouldn't flood the soil but just keep it damp. Now this was just for watering purposes and not where my whole house depended on it but what would the worse case be if the valve was stuck on with closed taps or with a leak you are trying to prevent massive damage from? - I installed a powered controlled valve inline with my plumbing, on the basement ceiling. These have a bypass valve for all-else-fails of the electrics or otherwise. For a complete bypass I had length of copper pipe that would double plumbing union connector in it's place. Something like this https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1-inch-npt-jar-top-valve.1000769546.html - I installed a receptacle box in the basement ceiling on a passing electrical circuit. Basement ceiling light? - I installed a plug on the end of the leads from a doorbell transformer (24vac) - I connected the 24vac secondary of the doorbell transformer to the solenoid valve - I plugged an X10 Appliance module into the receptacle and plugged the doorbell transformer into the X10 module. - I wrote software (HC2000 X10 home control software) to feather the lawn watering times and wrote in a remote keypad to turn on the water control for 15, 30, 45 minutes, and then off, dependant on 1, 2, 3 and 4 clicks on the remote keypad button so I could water the lawn without running inside to flip the bypass lever on the valve or access software. With the valve, ApplianceLinc, doorbell transformer, bit of wiring, surface box, clamp, receptacle and cover the whole thing should cost you under about $100. This would shut off your whole house or sections or both with multiple units but you would still find a few minutes and a few gallons of water dumped on the floor, depending on top of the hill or bottom of the plumbing etc.. If you look at sprinkler controls you may be able to get a multiple valve unit for a decent price that would act as a plumbing manifold but would be at a central point on the plumbing incoming so no advantage may be seen. I would suspect these sprinkler system valves should be fairly reliable as a leak with them could net similar damage. OTOH they may be designed for outdoor circumstances and no guarantees would be offered. Mine was in place for about 10 years, with no problems, especially not exposed to weather, before I removed it and took it to my new home. Still in a junk box here. Ohhh... and it was lawn grass seed...honest! ADDENDUM: Here is the same type of valve that has an inline flow shutoff for burst waterlines. I am not sure if power is even needed for that function to work. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.34-infpt-auto-inline-vlv-nfc-gbx.1000404810.html

I just know from the last leak I had to open the LS and shake and pat the excess water out of the inside. If the liquid is deeper than 1/8" the LS will have moisture inside it that may play havoc with the PCB and/or the battery contacts, oxidizing them badly and ruining the LS for the next time. The case needs all the breathing holes it can get to dry out excess moisture after a leak detect.

I have a whole house well pump on an OnOffLinc that will sut it off based on 4 LS units around the house. Since I have an open hydronic system with over 3000' of 1/2' PEX ful of water my system will run for almost a half an hour on a depreciating pressure basis. The drains in select basement spots should look after most of that and limit the depth of flooding. Sure there will be some damage and a neighbour would get called in but imagine coming home after your water poured into the basement full ON for a week and your bathing suits all need to be washed? I also have one beside the washing machine to shut off the washing machine power. We had some problems with the drain pump clogging a while back and shutting off the machine usually closes the valves and stops the centrifugal water level rise from spinning. Notifications are sent out with notices what to correct and to use codes "AAAA" and "BBBB" on the KPL to reset the power to devices, so ISY wouldn't have to be entered via the Admin Console, for a non-HA person involved. Always think about the recovery. It may be a false alarm or really minor. Make sure notifications include enough information, including how the resolve clues.

You need to create two scenes, one with both lights at 100% and one with both lights at 20%. Each scene needs to have one switches as a controller. Playing with the On level for each switch will only affect that switches local operation and not the other responder. To affect both you need to adjust the levels in the scenes created..

I have never been that impressed with Elon Musk. His Power Wall hype started a year or so ago and I did some research. Per kWh of storage the Power Wall averages about ten times the cost of other current technologies. Telsa like to give the impression you just plug in the Power Wall into any receptacle in your house and away it goes saving the world. He has a huge following of uneducated yuppies drooling after every word he says. What you really get, is an under sized battery bank that would never power any household , and a charger to charge a 300-450 volt battery bank. Now you need switching circuits, grid-tie inverter and safety lock-out devices before generating anything back into the grid. Suddenly you have another $15K on top of this expensive battery and charger , for this to even work When you start to compare what this actual box contains: I have a 6.6 kWh flooded battery bank for less than $380 CAN and the Power Wall offers a 7kW battery bank for $3000 US if you buy 100 units as a distributor. That was the press release price at the time. Here's the real kicker. The maximum load you can put on a Telsa Power Wall is 2kW, enough to run one fridge and a few light bulbs. I assume it will take short overloads while the fridge compressor starts up. My small flooded battery bank will take a 70kW load for a few minutes and not damage it. LioN batteries are very restricted to how fast you can charge them. Huge solar PV banks cannot force charge these things so oversizing would be a requirement of LioN batteries. They explode. This Power Wall was designed to hype the elitists with Telsa cars to attempt to delay charging of the car batteries to when electrical energy is cheaper, after complaints that the Telsa hype was untrue about the economy of the cars. To power a home using Power Wall units would take about 5 or more units and the difference between on peak and off peak rates, you could save with those, would never pay the cost of the energy saved for the rest of any of our lives. Never mind the cost of replacing them every ten years. So far no battery system can ever store energy as cheaply as the grid can produce it. When they crack that barrier things in the energy world will change. The LioN battery technology is a good step towards that but Elon Musk borders on a con man. Very brave and a leader, though. Maybe multi-level marketing schemes will come about with Telsa next. Currently they have opened a chain of stores handling their jackets, bags, shoes and other Telsa wear paraphernalia across North America. I wonder if Disney is watching? A lot off topic here but that scam the energy uneducated people stuff really annoys me.

Use "switched" instead of "status" If "status" is actually wanted then use "Not Off" or "> 0" If one SwitchLinc is used to control light2 with Status, and then light2 is turned off, but then wanted back on from the first SwitchLinc, "status" will not operate the second switch via a program. "Switched" will trigger a program every time the switch paddle is operated. "Status" will trigger a program only when the switch turns on the light. Note: Earlier than v5.x ISY versions use Control switchlinc is switched 'On' while v5.+ uses switchlinc is switched 'On' The 'control' word may be disappearing.

You talk about cloud control? Send in the cloud!