larryllix

You may have to contact UDI. Most of my polisy lighting depends on this module. It must be an oversight when they ported ISY over to polisy and facilities to install it were forgotten. @kzborayISY portal has a different function than the NR module and cannot replace it. IIRC, the Network module is now being included with a subscription to ISY Portal though, and the lone NR Module may not be available separately anymore.

Would be good test of the intent of the new owners. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Polisy runs about 1200% times the CPU power of ISY994 and that would require a fan to make noise and wear out. This way the large metal case avoid all that, acting as a heat sink. Don't try to wash your hands of polisy now. "heat sink" is not a warm water wash station.

I have never heard of any beacons going back and forth on WiFi. I cannot detect any traffic on any of my devices unless higher level protocol layers do a keepalive packet on a periodic basis. If my devices are not used for a period of time the router forgets them and drops them from it's connected table. This happens to almost all my devices. My WiFi bulbs get sent a keepalive packet via a status request every 90 seconds that I set in my software. If they are not talking or being talked to they do not consume any bandwidth from the time pool. No time slots are reserved AFAIK. 100 inactive devices on WiFi5 do not consume all the bandwidth for other devices. Perhaps that was some newer technique used in routers. I always thought WiFi was just another collisions detection system for arbitration as wired Ethernet is.

I believe that us why multitasking and Insteon scenes cannot use a response. Do many devices trying to report back at the same time could really bog down comms for a few hiccoughs fighting over no arbitration technique except to keep blasting away at it. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Yeah, I had one ASUS ax92u router and it seemed fine for power. I added another one and the power levels dropped dramatically. have heard others complaining of the same thing. It seems that mesh is mostly to protect neighbours from being overpowered with your signal strengths. Another thing I found was that before the second mesh router was added I found my 5GHz had much better range when I turned both 2.4 and 5GHz signal strengths down. My guess was that the antennae or the output RF stage couldn't handle the total power being thrown at the air. MY wife's iPad had trouble with 5GHz across the same room and once I lowered the signals strengths it comm'd mush better anywhere in the house. Of course once she was forced to purchase a new iPad with WiFi6 on it, it worked flawlessly anywhere on our 1 acre property. The mesh was supposed to allow devices to roam and force them to switch routers when needed. However, a lot of devices do not lie it when you switch and will drop the higher level of comm. My VR headset always had to be rebooted if I moved enough to switch routers. I had to disable that and basically use the routers as APs only. Another gadget they attempt to force on users is the automatic band switching. That drops many devices as the attempt to force say...HA bulbs to 5GHz causes them to drop their connections, sometimes permanently until rebooting again. Anybody else that states mesh is a PoS and a PITA, I agree with them totally. Devices already have automatic switching built into them for the last 20 years. They don't need routers attempting to force them off the air to make it happen.

What would use all that bandwidth for an HA application? Putting 100 bulbs on one WiFi channel and each bulb is turned on and off 10 times per day still doesn't add up to more than a few K of data. The crowding is only in the politics of the protocol and hardware, namely device counts in tables and arbitration hardware etc. HA is not high bandwidth data traffic. Now we wait unit IPv6 comes to a LAN near you so we can have 1000s of HA devices on WiFi.

Ouch@ 5 seconds?! With WiFi bulbs, 12 bulbs would take about 1.5 seconds. To be fair I had only about 9 bulbs in a row on my longest deck and it appeared to be about 1 second but as I posted the techniques make it not so apparent. I ran some animations where each bulbs profile was read and passed to the next bulb in a round Robin fashion and the biggest delay was ISY doesn't offer less than a Wait 1 second delay. I almost forgot....originally I setup a circus tent ceiling with two pinwheels of ten RGBW strings on each post/hub. Using WiFi I could rotate those twenty RGBW (16.4 feet long) strings about one loop per second or less. I did find some jerkiness in the light sequence smoothness at times if my wife was streaming 4K videos on that router. That was before WiFi 6 ever was in my home using a 20 year old dual band Netgear router. WiFi has plenty of bandwidth for HA if you don't use a 10 year old router with 55Mbps limits. Mind you, I don't think I would use it on lightswitches where delays are really annoying but I haven't tried. Think about gamers that whine about 20 msec lag times and 10 msec of jitter, when playing games against people in China through 100s of switches and routers. A few LAN devices are not going to be a problem.

There is no reason devices cannot use a second IP address so that group broadcasts can operate all bulbs in that group simultaneously. I doubt Insteon could patent that idea, as it is used in many places already for WiFi broadcast messing techniques. This seems so easy but I don't think these developers have much experience with HA.

How badly does the popcorn effect look with Zwave? Can you guess at how long of a delay happens between the first bulb turning off and the twelfth bulb turning off? Using MagicHome/LEDenet WiFi bulbs, I still get some slight popcorn effect but it is very minimal. There are some techniques to minimise the annoyance though. Turn off the most visible bulbs first, and then the ones that are typically behind you. With WiFi bulbs and strips, (and using my own NRbridge software) I divide big groups of bulbs into several smaller groupings so that say every third bulb turns on/off, then each interlaced next third of the bulbs, then the final interlaced third of the bulbs. eg: with 12 bulbs the first group to turn on/off would be 1,4,7, & 10, then 2,5,8 &11, and then 3,6,8 & 12. This makes the popcorn effect almost imperceptible. This also gives me better festive lighting control and animation capablities where I can create a moving effect in long strings of bulbs. (annoy the neighbours ) The very fast ramping feature built in to the MagicHome bulbs also helps hide the remaining popcorn effect. With groups of about 12 bulbs, no popcorn effect is seldom seen with two different TV streaming 4K and a VR headset streaming 3D and video effects simultaneously. BTW: NetFlix hardly uses a few percent of my WiFi data bandwidth. Prime uses about double that with 4K video. It comes in intermittent bursts of 3-5 Mbps on a 1200 Mbps WiFi channel. 2.4GHz or 5GHz WiFi 6 handles that while still sleeping. However, I doubt Zwave would offer that control or perhaps with the right software, could it?

Do the door sensors not have an On only option like the Insteon MSes do?

ISY994 and IoP, as a copy of it, represents the longitudes backwards to any standards I have seen. Always has.

Out of date information. https://www.fcc.gov/document/fcc-opens-6-ghz-band-wi-fi-and-other-unlicensed-uses-0 Most router companies released 6GHz routers a few years ago. I have been using two ASUS 6GHz band routers since about 2019? Perhaps the FCC was delayed from the Canadian DoC rules there? That never previously happened. Usually Canada followed the US rules. My 6GHz band reaches much further than the 5GHz band. However I believe my ASUS routers have destroyed the 5GHz band signals for some reason, making that band almost useless for more than the immediate room. The 6GHz band reaches any corner of my 200 x 200' property much better for some reason. The 802.11ax protocol (WiFi6) does increase reliability of the data. Not exactly sure how the new arbitration works but it sounds similar the the technique cell phone systems use. with time sliced frequency sharing and shorter packet pre/postambles. Trouble with all that is my 40 some odd WiFi HA devices only understand the old protocols so 2.4GHz is mostly dedicated to that. However, brag about the 802.11ax protocol states it handles non-participants better and I believe it after using it with 80-90 devices.

WiFi 6 routers and usage has been in the user market for about 5-6 years now. It enhances the 2.4GHz and 5GHz band usage with advanced arbitration schemes. WiFi 6 s not defined as a frequency band addition but rather a protocol improvement for new and existing bands. My router will connect to many devices at just under 1 Gbps on the existing 2.4GHz channels using the 802.11ax (WiFi6) protocol. My VR headset connects at 1.2Gbps on any band using WiFi6. Faster devices, using WiFi 6 are already being sold,for a few years now. WiFi 6E is being developed and available in higher end routers, using higher frequency bands. Some of those frequencies have been included on many routers already sold for the last 3-4 years (or more). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_6

Either your comm noise that was causing the congestion went away, or your offending program stopped.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I don't remember the details now but IIRC PG3 depends on some database module that is being eliminated and then new updates will remove common Linux db modules. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

If you have been using the admin console to access your ISY994 then you have been using the java applet and your browser was never involved. However it does take a browser to download and install the java applet. You should keep your java version updated for the best results. After loaded you should clear your java cache and reinstall the ISY Finder for better access to your admin console.

I think I was inspired by this fellow's code hacks to write my NRbridge.py that I use for my MagicHome bulbs and strips. Then it disappeared from the flux websites.

This sounds like the same thing happened to me when installing the ecobee app. I installed the code into ecobee. It registered OK. I rebooted polisy and the admin console but no go. Then I deleted the app code in the ecobee app and reinstalled it and then the ecobee NS installed all the nodes into my IoP. The first time would not perform no matter what I tried to jog. @bpwwer @JimboAutomatesPerhaps something is being stubborn inside PG3 when you first install a NS. Pin code early time out on initialisation, maybe?

https://www.insteon.com/blog/2022/6/9/fnustys354bfmcmchr36wgvrn5h41z Hopefully this guy will do better At least he professes a different attitude. No tinfoil hat in sight yet. Go Ken Fairbanks!!

https://www.theverge.com/2022/6/9/23161803/insteon-customers-bought-company-restored-service "A group of customers" bought the rights.

Years back I had a new device, right out of the box, that actually reported on and off interchanged until I factory reset it. I don't know how it could happen but it stunned me to see and retest it as such. Remember, SmartHome had n quality control at all. They practiced Quality Assurance, which means, you test it and we will replace it if it is messed up. I also had an iRLinc with a reversed wired sensor for SmartHome, right out of the box. The cost of returning the device under warranty was higher than the device was worth, so it got garbaged. It would never function properly with my ISY anyway. I also have a 2441WTH Insteon thermostat that reports changes back (confirms commands to alter parameters) to ISY but never actually changes anything inside. However I have an older firmware version that works correctly. I can't remember the third defective device but all three came directly from SmartHome on one of their sales. Then they delayed shipping for two or three weeks until they shipped the "in-stock" items via USPS to CanPost. I was so impressed I never bought from SmartHome directly again. ...always, always, always, factory reset every new device.

Did you know there are two ANDs and two ORs. Individual lines can each have their own AD/OR logic and there are also two distinct and separate AND and OR buttons that are used with parenthesis. Then you can move each bracket up and down to where you like.

In my area, it is common for multi-unit apartment buildings and offices to feed two of the three phases to each unit We call this network service. It works well to save some copper or aluminum conductor quantity in compact densities. Cheaper residential meters don't work properly due to the 120 degree difference between phases. The 1.5 element meters expect 180 degree phase shift between phases (legs) to meter accurately. However, the biggest problem is the compromise at 125v / 216v gives high voltage for 120v light bulbs. incandescent bulbs don't last very long with higher voltage of 125 volts and heating style appliances, like water heater can only produce about 75% of their rated heat, at 216 volts instead of their rated 240 volt supply. Note: we never had 110 /115/ 117 / 220 / 225 or 230 volt supplies. Some appliances were nominally rated at these voltages intending to compensate for perceived voltage loss in supply systems. Supplies have always been 120 / 240 volt by design.