larryllix

I doubt they would be exchanging any binary data at the ISY language levels, python3 levels, C, or 99% of all languages today. Even the backups are all using variable values represented by normal text representation of the numerical value. Coders using languages, except for the lowest levels, don't care about how binary data is stored or the internal register structures of CPUs. If they do the language is operating at a very low level machine code style.

Thanks! I do understand all that but don't understand how they can even make these 1/8? wave antennae work, not cook the containers. and yet still get that kind of performance out of them.

The fact you crossed the road is based on the majority of opinions only. Science works this way. When a larger majority of people, say from a different angle agree you didn't cross the road it will now be the new factual information. Science works this way, and science also contains it's own disclaimers to agree with this fact that it is never absolute or static.

I wouldn't have thought the endian thing would not be any problem unless code is being written in assembler. Not sure about some C(++) code. Most higher level languages don't make the coder care about machine specific idiosyncrazies. (pundle intentional)

Thanks for that! If the newer updates makes the SiLab unit non-compatible with polisy drivers, do you know the version can be downgraded later? Is it just a matter of saving the older version and dumping it into the stick?

"Facts" when the majority opinions agree on any statement or a common element of any statement. This term is often used by those wanting their opinions to appear to have backing by others and to be accepted. Just sayin'

Strange! amazon.com still shows the same "not available" for me. (Yes I refreshed the page) Going to their store in amazon.com and clicking on their link it shows the same "not available" and "we don't know if this will ever return". This may possibly be because they have a store on amazon.ca and it is available there also. Much more expensive but usually after the shipping charges from the USA by amazon.com, it costs more to buy there anyway. Then warranties are void, and returns typically cost more than the product is worth. No matter. I can get it locally anyway with actual free shipping. Thanks asbril!

The Zooz is claiming programmable also. My guess would be they are clones except for possibly the antenna design. But what is a 2" antenna worth anyway?

Exactly. Now I see 250' indoors and 1000' outdoors??? Would be nice to have a 2-3' USB cable on it for vertical or higher up mounting though. Sticking between a metal case and a solid (concrete?) wall can't be much good for RF propagation.

Zooz is claiming 1000' range while the Silicon Labs claims 100m = 331' ?

Here is the one Michel linked to. Sold out.

@Michel Kohanimany point in UDI getting a mass buy of Zwave sticks and reselling them to keep uniformity, ease of purchase, and good pricing? Also, are both PLM and Zwave stick going to fit into the top and bottom USB hardware ports without an extender or splitter? UPDATE: amazon.com is sold out of the Zooz Zwave stick+. However Canadian amazon is not yet. Aartech.ca has a Homeseer Smart Stick+ and Zwave Zwave Interface. I don't know if it is compatible or even similar though. Looks similar.

Sounds like the Insteon switch may have a despiking cap to ground. know the old bathroom vent fans would trip the GFCIs in bathrooms often. I think they (GFCIs) were desensitised some, a few decades back, and formerly neutral conductors with nicks in the insulation were often the culprit. Create some counterEMF spikes from the fan motor on/off and the insulation in the neutral conductors, along with shower moisture, and drywall sanding dust, you have a hard to find GFCI testing circuit.

I wouldn't think moisture would be a problem as the devices must consume a few Watts and therefore be slightly warmer than the environment. This keeps the % relative humidity well above the dewpoint. In our outside electrical equipment all metal boxes had a small 10-100 Watt heater that ran all year 'round and always kept wiring drier, and rust off the metal parts, over decades of Canadian weather. Some from the 1930s, 25Hz equipment. However, splashing rain or snow inside the device could be a different matter.

I use an older MS I Insteon MS on my front porch to detect people on the porch (package delivery?) I have made a three sided aluminum box to protect it from any snow or rain that could blow up into the soffits where it is mounted. It works well most of the time... however, insects love to crawl across the lens face and trigger my doorbell and alexa vocal annunciation with false alarms occasionally. This drove me crazy trying to figure it out until I saw the bugs finally. Looking up and down the street for a leaving delivery van or running kid never found any explanation. If you have ever witnessed any MS outdoor lights flashing on and off in a snow or rain storm you will know what to expect from false alarms. I have my trigger sensing logically ANDed with some nasty weather conditions (rain, snow, and high winds) to eliminate some of that.

Just add it to the virus scanner ignore list.

The ISY examine links feature would do that but you would have to decode them all manually.

Is that what that is for? Good idea. However, how do I reprogram a device to allow programing then, after it cannot be programmed?

Insteon develops AI? Anything is possible with these little computers, being programmable by randomw signals and no packet checking security implemented. I had an OnOff plug-in module start sending out Insteon Scene On codes instead of the usual acknowledge when it received it's On commands. It would turn on a recognised pattern of lights in my Gathering room, occasionally. Drove me crazy, tearing apart programs on my ISY, for about a whole year. I finally found the ISY logs showing a bad ACK from it, after some On commands sent from ISY at the times it happened. A simple extended power cycling fixed the OnOff module, and it has functioned flawlessly since then, for about 2-3 years now. I had another Insteon device send out reverse status from new. A factory reset fixed that one. If you believe ISY hasn't created this link do a restore on the two devices (or do a download of the links and compare first). The restore should replace the bad links with proper ones.

The other very common fallacy is that breakers and fuses limit the current flowing to their rating. They do not and cannot. These devices limit the damage by limiting the time before the circuit opens. Most residential breakers are rated at 10,000 AIR (amperes interrupting rating). If your supply transformer feed lines are very short from a larger than usual transformer supply, your main breaker may have to be a special type to handle the fault currents to avoid explosions from bad faults close to, or inside the main panel. A few feet of #14 conductor and connections typically limit currents at 120 volt to well under 10,000 amperes.

Agreeing... if a dead short didn't pop the circuit breaker within 0.5 seconds, either there are bad wiring connections, or the main breaker would likely open up. Some breakers have dual curves (51, 50 ) where the longer curve gets cut it's time cut off by a (50) instantaneous element that beats the time curve. I am not sure whether that was ever implemented in some brands of circuit breakers though.

Go UDI! BTW: To get somebody's attention you need to type the '@' symbol and their name. Then when the correct name is seen in the fall-down menu select it, and it will install into your text like this @breischaft

From your description it sounds like somebody wired to the light box first and was switching the neutral. Bad wiring and should be corrected. Your diagram doesn't seem to agree with your text. You have the red wire in each 3 wire cable marked with 120 volt (live) despite your text saying none is present???

Somebody has to buy all the drinks!

Too bad there isn't two circuits to each chandelier. You could install some 2200K bulbs and leave them on, while the bright white bulbs were on a dimmer. This would would the same as the WarmGlow bulbs but in discreet bulbs. I found my 6 bulbs would never achieve bright white, or even warm white colour temperatures. I was trying to use mine in my ensuite bathroom but the full-on colour was so orange and dim, they weren't useful for using in a mirror. Others report different results so you may need to try various bulbs. I doubt the little permanently on 0.5 watt LEDs that create the 2200K will be bright enough anyway.