dbuss

Here's an image of how the switch is currently wired. https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPpV5Rg8NPUgsMGA6FWmplNs62X_ofL_e90dHDY

I appreciate your help on this lee & Stu as i attempt to get my head wrapped around this 3-way circuit. It appears to me that the 3-wire cable runs to the other switch box of the 3-way circuit and the 2-wire cable runs to the light. Am I correct? Thanks!!

The black wire from the two-wire cable connects to the red wire from the 3-wire cable. There is another 2-wire cable coming into the box that supplies line to the box. The black wire from this cable is connected to the black bundle and the white wire to the white bundle. The wire from the black screw is connected to the black wire bundle.

The black wire connects to the black screw comes from the bundle of black wires. There is a two wire cable that supplies the line to the 4-gang box. The black wire from this cable is connected to the black bundle and the white wire is connected to the white bundle. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

There is not a 2-wire cable at the 4-gang box. The wire that is connected to the black screw comes from the bundle of black wires.

I'm trying install two SwitchLink Dimmers 2477D into an existing 3-way light circuit. The 4 gang electrical box where the line is connected has two cables coming into it for the 3-way circuit. One cable has a white and black wire the other cable has white, black and red wires in it. The line was connected to a bundle of black wires in the four gang box. The red wire from the 3 wire cable was connected to the black wire in the 2 wire cable. White wire from the 2 wire cable was connected to the bundled white wires in the four gang box. The black and white wires from the 3 wire cable were connected to the switch. The other switch box has a 3 wire cable with red, black and white wires. The red wire is connected to the black screw and the white and black wires are connected to the other two screws. How do I connect the Insteon devices? Thanks!!

The status of the lock in my Isy changes when the lock is locked or unlocked manually, keypad or remotely. And of course, with the Isy you have the ability to send a notification to let you know the status has changed.

I have four of these locks that have been installed for about four months that have worked extremely well. One of the locks would lose communications with the Isy once in awhile. I added an Aeotec range extender and that resolved that issue. One of the locks is on the garage entrance door, which is an inside entrance from the house. I have a program that automatically locks the door after it's been unlocked, so the electronic locking system gets used many times per day. The other three locks are on exterior doors. two of which have storm doors, so they are not exposed to the elements. The other one is on exterior door with no storm door so it exposed to the elements. The batteries are at 98-99% on all the locks. The ability to incorporate the locks in Isy programs is a real plus. My wife and I really enjoy the convenience of the locks. We would not hesitate to purchase them again and would certainly recommend them.

I've not used Morning Industries locks so I can't comment on those. I have four Z-Wave locks that have worked great. The status reporting was the deal maker for me. My wife tells everyone how great the keyless locks are.

It appears there's an ISY coming that will allow you to do Z-Wave and Zigbee in the same box. http://www.smarthome.com/universal-devices-isy994izwpro-ir-insteon-z-wave-pro-controller-with-ir-receiver.html

Thank you very much Xathros!!

I should have said I have scenes rather than used the term "programmed".

I have the "On" and "Off" buttons programmed to turn the light on and off. The other four buttons are programmed for the "Hi", "Med", "low" and "Off" fan speeds. The button are programmed The button are programmed as Non-Toggle(on). This program works just fine on KPL in the tabletop enclosure. However, when I add the other KPL to the program with the same parameters is when I have the problems I mentioned in my original post.

The switch that is controlling the FanLinc is not a dimmer. It's just an on/off switch. The other KPL in the tabletop enclosure is a dimmer.

Yes, both KPLs are dimmers.

I replaced the ceiling fan that was there and that's the way that ceiling fan was wired. It had a remote that controlled the lights, fan speed and fan direction. The FanLinc is a dimmer version.

After thinking about what you said. I'm pretty sure the FanLinc is powered by one KPL in the wall and the FanLinc does not have uninterrupted power to it. That being the case is it possible to use the one KPL to control the power and then use both to control the fan?

I have two KPLs to control a Fanlinc. One KPL is in the wall and the other in a tabletop enclosure. The KPL in the wall needs to be turned on at all times. If this KPL is not turned on, nothing happens. I have tried programming them both as described in this thread. If I just program the scene with the tabletop KPL it works great. As soon as I try to add the in-wall KPL, the only thing the in-wall KPL can do is turn the light on and off. If press any fan button on the other KPL the fan will try to start and then shuts down with the light turning off because the in-wall KPL turned off when the button was pressed. What am I doing wrong or not doing. Thanks!!

On only mode: when checked an Off command is sent when the Timeout value expires. When unchecked only On commands are sent. If you have the "On Only Mode" box checked the "Timeout" is probably set to less than 10 minutes causing your light to turn off before10 minutes. You can uncheck the box so the Off command is not sent or set Timeout for 10 minutes or longer.

Techman, Your "current state" readings are the same as mine.

I appreciate all the information. Upon further investigation and experimenting I have found that the large black and white wires in the picture supply the power to the fan and light from the junction box. I cut three of the smaller wires one at a time and tested the fan to see what happened. The fan would not work on any of the three speeds after each of the wires was cut. When I connected each wire again the fan would turn on and work normally. Any ideas on if the FanLinc will work and how I can determine which fan wire I need to connect power to? Thanks!!

The model number of the fan is 25734. The remote has a button to change the direction of the fan.

We have several Hunter ceiling fan/lights(model 25734) in our home that are controlled with Hunter remotes. The remotes are starting to fail and I would like to replace them with FanLincs. I have attached pictures of the remote transmitter receiver and nine pin plug that plugs into the receiver. Will FanLinc work with this ceiling fan?

We have several Hunter ceiling fan/lights(model 25734) in our home that are controlled with Hunter remotes. The remotes are starting to fail and I would like to replace them with FanLincs. I have attached pictures of the remote transmitter receiver and nine pin plug that plugs into the receiver. Will FanLinc work with this ceiling fan?