paulbates

Gary, To add to Tekens comments, you need a way to open and close it. The appliancelinc will be the easiest and cheapest way to do this. When the appliancelinc is turned on, it will add power to close the duct. The duct will spring back to open when the appliancelinc is turned off. You will need to have a switch, or some kind of logic, to say when you want it open or closed. How do you plan to control it, with a switch or keypadlinc? Paul

If you back up to post 91 in this thread, its discussed and documented. Electronics knowledge and experience is needed.

Yep, most likely spikes from the gas ignitors traveling to the stat and interfering with its non filtered main board. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

The 2441TH is not a venstar designed or manufactured device. This is a case of a consumer electronics company, smartlabs, trying to back into the hvac business. The 2441THs work for many, but not for all. My older hvac units triggered the same 2441TH issues noted by others... locking up and random mode changes. I sent the 2441THs back. Venstar has been in the hvac business a while and makes about 25% of the stats in the us. I recently installed 2 venstar t5900 wifi thermostats on the same hvac system, and they function perfectly. I since upgraded hvac systems and venstars drive the new units well too. Paul Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I think my reason may not be quite right, its that the program is changing the condition of its entry. However, I believe the conclusion is right and that line should be removed.

It looks to me like the if can never be true. Try removing this line and rerunning And Status 'Kit Sink Light / Hot Water Kit' is Off

That's really what the Insteon Hub is, an Ethernet PLM. It plausible that ISY firmware could be requested to be modified to talk to it (probably need the network module too). It would need a lot of people asking for it. I don't know if that's on the horizon or not. Having said that, my money would be on the new UD PLM, serial or not. Insteon traffic travels in the 2k baud range, bursting to 14.4k baud. It would potentially be more of a wiring advantage than a performance advantage.

Anything notable or remarkable in the wiring in the box its installed in? I have one in a 3 gang box that initially buzzed. It has a lot of wiring going through it. I unhooked everything and started with just the incoming hot and neutral on the switch. No buzz. It took an hour or two with a volt meter and figuring out where all the wires ran and wire it back up with a few changes. There was old three way wiring and things that went nowhere. That was 3 years ago, and no buzz since then. A different question; are you using the load on the A button, if so what is it wired to, how many watts does it drive? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Oberkc, can Zwave devices can be added to insteon scenes?

Outletlincs can be temperamental about noise as Xathros points out. I had those exact symptoms on a yard light transformer plugged into an outletlinc. It usually took several hours of it being in the "on" state, and then it would stop responding and give the red !. I had to use a plug in noise filter to stop it from getting the red !. How old is the fan? Is it physically making more noise in the room than it used to? Paul Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I use time-a.nist.gov on my pcs, router and ISY to keep them synced time wise. Maybe that will work.

Yeh, I went through a period when I had an WGL receiver putting X10 Motion sensors around to gather light levels. I've compromised on one spot that seems to get it right most of the time. The techniques in this post have me thinking about adding a seasonal program layer to it Thanks Larry

It's been an ongoing struggle for me too. I've used several light sensor methods. Got close but never perfect.

FYI. The earth's axis changed a few degrees. Oh, and the sun moved.too .

Other packages have them. I used Mark Sandler's plugin for homeseer that watched traffic and calculated a 0 - 100% signal quality score for each device in a list. I had devices in the 60 - 80% range before signal linc, and everything except one MS was 95% or better afterwards. Most at 100%. That lead my down the path to rely on RF only when needed... noisy / problem circuits. The hop count dropped for many devices. Houselinc has a similar feature called signal diagnostics. You can switch over to that temporarily since its free and measure how it works with three signallincs breakers on and breakers off, but that's a lot of work if things work fairly well. There is a request into UD to have a similar insteon diagnostic feature in the ISY.

+ 1, Stu. My previous HA package provided a dashboard of signal performance for all devices. I started insteon with 3 access points, and then a few years later installed a signal linc. The before and after were measurable and remarkable. I removed 2 access points as a result, 2 less things to worry about breaking. I occasionally will notice, or hear from the family, about problems with devices on certain circuits not working properly. The resolution is to unplug and replug the access point there. In an interesting twist, I am having better luck with a circuit that always had an access point on it, when I finally removed it after putting in the signalinc (and I did swap APs to make sure that one wasn't defective) My view is that a combination of adding a signalinc to the main / root panel, and locating the PLM there too, provides the best balance of access from devices on the powerline to the panel. Even though you have a lot of mesh in dual band devices, all roads lead to the breaker panel and there's the potential to drop a hop getting to and from the ISY. I've not heard any specific stories that installing a signal linc made an installation worse afterwards. I'm not sure either way if the sub panels would need signalincs too. Start with one on the main/root panel and see how things are different. If you think you can do better, move on the other panels. Paul

Yep, you got it. I have the same duct booster situation. I use my thermostats' mode changes and outside temperature to turn that on.

I've used several HA platforms over the years, and came to ISY in the last couple of months. I found that it takes a little bit of practice to learn the ISY's way of doing things, but after I got a handle on it, its pretty straight forward. One suggestion is to explore / search 'How to's and tutorials" section of the board, also "Questions and Answers". Search for "bathroom" or "sprinklers" or whatever you are automating. You will find something that resonates with what you are doing, and find sample programs that demonstrate different ways to do it. That's another concept, there might be several ways to do the same thing. What works for you is the right way. As you write more programs, you'll run in to more complex scenarios with "if"s and using the "else". Don't worry about it now, and know that there is a ton of help on the board if you post your program; either suggestions or sample programs back for you to look at. In addition to the programs, its a great community. It was helpful for me to move functions over one at a time rather than focusing on devices. For example, move your yard light motion sensor and associated lights, then move on to the attic fan...etc. You will have different functions than my examples, but that's approach served me well. Start simple, move into the more complex.

As a follow up, I had my first occurrence of this technique working on its own last night. There was a light rain that started early am. The normal sprinkler cycle started at 2:15 as expected. At 3:25 enough rain fall to equal normal watering had fallen and the "Mid Cycle shutdown program" kicked in and shut the cycle down. It indexed the variable to track mid cycle cancels. It cut ~2 hours of sprinkling out of a 4+ hour cycle.

I think two things will help The ISY can turn on and off scenes as well as switches. Instead of turning each switch on individually, simple pick the scene off of the list of things to 'Set' in your program. You can configure the scene to respond to all of the switches. When you set up scenes you can make all off the switches (that support it) controllers. So not only the motion sensor controls the lights, but the switches do too The way you tell which are controllers are if they are colored red, or not in the scene. If they are not colored red, delete them from the scene and re-add it. The dialogue box that pops up will offer you the opportunity to make it a controller as well as a responder. do that for both switches. You may not need an ISY program at all if this works. I think that should do it. If you are doing the above already, and still have pauses in the lights coming on, its a noise related problem

Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Based on the learnings in this thread, I need to rethink this program. It kills my sprinklers if enough rain falls during the 4 hour sprinkling cycle. On my way out, I reset both variables that I check in the 'if' to see if I need to do it at all... If $Sprinkling_Now is 1 And $Ok_to_Sprinkle is 0 Then Stop program 'Sprinklers - Normal Run' Set 'Yard / Sprinklers / Master Valves / EZ1 Master' Off Set 'Yard / Sprinklers / Zone 01' Off Set 'Yard / Sprinklers / Master Valves / EZ2 Master' Off Set 'Yard / Sprinklers / Zone 08' Off $Partial_Sprinkler_Cycle_avoided += 1 Send Notification to 'Default' content 'Sprinking Canceled In Flight' $Ok_to_Sprinkle = 1 $Sprinkling_Now = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') If enough rain falls during the 4 hour cycle, cancel the remainder Do you think the last variable assignment step gets run, or does the previous step kill it? If not, do you think moving those two steps to an inactive program, and calling it's 'then', instead of resetting the variables will work?

Hi Unfortunately not at this time. Michel did capture it as a feature request: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14031-irrigation-module-measured-rain-input/ I would like to do that as well. Paul

I have gone through quirks from keypadlincs. One thing to try before restoring is using the airgap to 'reboot' it. Instead of pushing the plastic set paddle on the bottom, pull it out a little. Count to 10 and push it back in. That may stop the flickering if its confused. Test it again. My guess is you'll to "restore device" to get everything back.

You can talk to X10 devices without the module, but you can't name them... they would be A3, I5 etc... Not 'Patio Light'. I've gotten away with this approach due to the few and dwindling X10 devices on my system