paulbates

Grizzy Can you share what you are trying to program? You will get feedback on different ways to accomplish what you are programming and maybe some less complex ways to achieve that. Paul

When you first set up your ISY, it looks like you were installing over an existing Insteon network with some links programmed into the switches and devices. When installing over an exiting system, the ISY tries very hard to look for all of the devices in your existing insteon device links and creates many scenes. I had a similar experience and ended up deleting most of those scenes and recreating what I needed. As Stu points out, when you chose to start over and deleted all of the devices, the scenes and links went with them. This "installing over" experience was difficult for me too, and I had a conversation with Steve Lee of UD about what happened and I decided to rebuild my insteon network from scratch, devices and scenes. Another way to look at this is, each device doesn't need its own scene. If you want to control an individual device directly, simply control it directly. Groups of devices, like a group of outletlincs for yard lights, need a scene to control them all together, and manually creating them based on how you want your house to behave is the way to go.

Ok. Sorry Sparky, we are past what I can help with. Open a support ticket with UD, they are very helpful and responsive with this kind of thing, especially when you are just getting started: Submit a Ticket: http://www.universal-devices.com/contact-support I would copy and include a link to this thread in the support ticket Paul

My new carrier gas heaters recommend a limit of 3 cycles per hour in the installation manual. That is what I get on with the out-of-the box 2 degree deadband of my venstar thermostat. If I chose to configure the venstar to 1 degree deadband, I would get 5 to 6 shorter cycles per hour. Each of those additional cycles would use 30 - 40 seconds of full on gas while the heat exchanger is brought from its cool state to its useable heat state, versus letting the fewer cycles run longer on an already heated exchanger.... using more gas. Ignitors, heat exchangers and blower motors are all affected by cycling.

Thermostats have a "deadband" concept. They wait X degrees, typically 2 degrees, before calling for heat or cool. My recollection of the 2441TH is that it has a 2 degree deadband. In your scenario, that would mean it should come on at 69. Is that what you are seeing? I don't believe that the deadband can be changed in the 2441TH, but 2 degrees is fairly standard across thermostats as it protects wear on the HVAC system from cycling too much. ** Its also more efficient with a 2 degree deadband. The cycles will be longer, but there will be fewer of them per day. There is overhead, in gas, to start each cycle up

Hi, give this a try: 1) Right click on the program name in the list of programs 2) pick "Copy to clip board" at the bottom of the drop down list presented. That will let you paste the program code into a forum reply Paul

The suggestion for testing was more about trying out the technologies for the "other" factors.. learning curve, functionality, etc. Nothing major or permanent, just a chance to see what you like and why. Chances are you will invest a lot in a whole house install and be making a decision you will have to live with for a while.

I can echo comments above. I put my first inline lincs in in 2006, they're still there. I had an intermatic whole house power conditioner already, and I believe that helped. I did lose a plm plugged in near a furnace within a month of installing it, due to, I believe, powerline noise. I put an XPNR filter on the furnace and that seemed to solve it. Reliability is one factor, but there are others: total cost, learning curve, available functionality and, what you like. Depending how much time you have before your build, you may want to get the ISY, zwave card and a few of each type of swithc and experiment with it in your current house. Paul

Control of devices can be distributed to the insteon network using scenes. This is handy when you want to control multiple devices at the exact same time. As an example, I use a scene to turn on/off my yard lights via three outlet lincs, porch lights and 3 lamps. They all go on and of at the same time. The flip side is that there is no single answer. If programming works for you, use it. You can experiment with scenes as you try more things. Also, share what functions you are trying to automate here on the board. You'll get different ideas that will include scenes and programs. Welcome to the board Paul

To back up what others have said, it's not the isy. I had this issue with 2441TH before owning an isy.

Thank you Stu!

I used items located here when I started, and still do. The items that are documents are printable. This particular guide has a section on how to use the ISY program features & programming. There are 20-ish pages related to program functions / programming instructions in the document.

Nice! I was hoping you would find it. I would have gone OCD trying to figure it out

Notepad++ is good as Michael indicates. I use win 8.1 and excel and that works ok as well. I believe when you press the "view in excel" button, excel specific macros are added to the file stream and you pretty much need to use excel to look at it. My version of excel, 2013 and it makes me approve use of an excel macro in the file. The macro does provided formatting and shading which is helpful Also, excel allows you to do log analysis with filters or pivot tables if you are familiar with those. With pivot tables you can focus in on dates and or devices, and check up on programs and access from the web / mobile devices.

Gary, To add to Tekens comments, you need a way to open and close it. The appliancelinc will be the easiest and cheapest way to do this. When the appliancelinc is turned on, it will add power to close the duct. The duct will spring back to open when the appliancelinc is turned off. You will need to have a switch, or some kind of logic, to say when you want it open or closed. How do you plan to control it, with a switch or keypadlinc? Paul

If you back up to post 91 in this thread, its discussed and documented. Electronics knowledge and experience is needed.

Yep, most likely spikes from the gas ignitors traveling to the stat and interfering with its non filtered main board. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

The 2441TH is not a venstar designed or manufactured device. This is a case of a consumer electronics company, smartlabs, trying to back into the hvac business. The 2441THs work for many, but not for all. My older hvac units triggered the same 2441TH issues noted by others... locking up and random mode changes. I sent the 2441THs back. Venstar has been in the hvac business a while and makes about 25% of the stats in the us. I recently installed 2 venstar t5900 wifi thermostats on the same hvac system, and they function perfectly. I since upgraded hvac systems and venstars drive the new units well too. Paul Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I think my reason may not be quite right, its that the program is changing the condition of its entry. However, I believe the conclusion is right and that line should be removed.

It looks to me like the if can never be true. Try removing this line and rerunning And Status 'Kit Sink Light / Hot Water Kit' is Off

That's really what the Insteon Hub is, an Ethernet PLM. It plausible that ISY firmware could be requested to be modified to talk to it (probably need the network module too). It would need a lot of people asking for it. I don't know if that's on the horizon or not. Having said that, my money would be on the new UD PLM, serial or not. Insteon traffic travels in the 2k baud range, bursting to 14.4k baud. It would potentially be more of a wiring advantage than a performance advantage.

Anything notable or remarkable in the wiring in the box its installed in? I have one in a 3 gang box that initially buzzed. It has a lot of wiring going through it. I unhooked everything and started with just the incoming hot and neutral on the switch. No buzz. It took an hour or two with a volt meter and figuring out where all the wires ran and wire it back up with a few changes. There was old three way wiring and things that went nowhere. That was 3 years ago, and no buzz since then. A different question; are you using the load on the A button, if so what is it wired to, how many watts does it drive? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Oberkc, can Zwave devices can be added to insteon scenes?

Outletlincs can be temperamental about noise as Xathros points out. I had those exact symptoms on a yard light transformer plugged into an outletlinc. It usually took several hours of it being in the "on" state, and then it would stop responding and give the red !. I had to use a plug in noise filter to stop it from getting the red !. How old is the fan? Is it physically making more noise in the room than it used to? Paul Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I use time-a.nist.gov on my pcs, router and ISY to keep them synced time wise. Maybe that will work.