paulbates

Take a look at the solution, here

It's possible a link got lost in the shuffle. Put the the sensor in linking mode, right click on it in iox and pick restore device, restest

It's a long shot, but sometimes the contacts of the card are corroded. Rub over them with an eraser and the wipe with alcohol. It might work and is easy to try, and it can't make things worse.

Search google with "XPF X10", and also try "XPNR X10" The XPF and XPNR are wire in filters for x10 but can work in some cases with Insteon. I used the XPNR for line noise from noisy electronic low voltage lighting transformers that affected insteon. The XPF is rated for 20amps but is kinda big. Take a look at these. I can't guarantee results in your case, but there are limited things to try.

It does... plugin = polyglot pg3. You posted under eisy so I assume you have that, if so you already have polyglot installed. There is a learning curve for sure Another option: if you have the UD portal, use the UDM mobile app and notifications can be sent to it relatively easily, probably not a big leap from your att texting, making some mods to programs. You won't need polyglot. This may be the place to start.

The PG3 notification plugin has a free version, and also a pay for which I use and recommend. I use the notification plugin to send notifications to the pushover app, it's $5 one time, and it organizes my notifications in to different folders I definr. It keeps my text app open for family / friends communication and I can look at pushover notifications when I need to.

Wireless devices do use the plm, it has both powerline and rf radios

I'd use the powerstrip as a control for your rebuild. Plug everything in there to test, even if you have to remove something you got working to make room. We can get to the phase bridging once you confirm the devices do talk to the plm

Thanks Mike So it sounds like this can be replicated in iox programs in a scene of Insteon devices: scene1 contains 3 switches in this example If Status switch 1 is (on or >0) Or Status switch 2 is (on or >0) Or Status switch 3 is (on or >0) Then $scene1 = "1" ... then programs function off of $scene1, or other actions. And a converse version of the program to turn it off using "and"s and setting $scene1=0 I see why it is that way, and don't know how else it could be approximated

To support @Ross's answer, its a great plugin that works reliably and provides usable date data that is otherwise hard to get. Very helpful for particular programs

Yes, but you want to be sure it shows your PLM connected on the diagnostics screen

You don't have a ton of devices so starting over is do-able. Give this a read first and use it as a guide I'd print out yourf programs you have for a reference. One at a time, delete each device from the ISY, making a list of them as you go so none are forgotten. WRITE DOWN THE INSTEON ADDRESS FOR EACH BEFORE YOU DELETE - 11.22.33 format Reset the PLM Pick delete Modem (PLM) from the File menu and complete prompts Reset the PLM - Un plug, wait 5 seconds, replug while holding the set button until it beeps Unplug the PLM wait 5 seconds and plug in Unplug and replug the eisy, log back in to iox Go to Tools/Diagnostics/PLM info status, look for it to say connected Repeat 3 and 4 above again, even a few times, until it says connected Do not try to add the PLM as a device to your eisy, iox does that on its own One at a time add non-battery devices Go to each non-battery device, unplug, replug while holding the set button For switches, pull out the air gap, wait 5 seconds, then press in and hold In both of the above cases, Wait for the beep Pick New Insteon Device from the linking menu be sure to pick "remove all existing links" One at a time add battery devices Go to each battery device, press and hold the set button until it beeps In both of the above cases, Wait for the beep Pick Link a sensor from the linking menu be sure to pick "remove all existing links" If you get stuck on one, move on to the next. Test everything out. You will have to update programs

Did you try my suggestion of linking a few devices with the linking menu?

Does the iox screen show progress in restoring devices, or is it still/stuck? Do you have any battery wireless devices like sensors: Leak sensors, motion sensors, door sensors or Insteon remotes? Wireless devices each, individually have to be put into linking mode to complete the restore

I believe factory resetting it will make the top button control the load, if it's one of the others out of the box. I've not seen iox release notes mentioning it's been addressed.

Another avenue is to use the linking menu to put iox into linking mode. Then press the set button on the appliancelinc until it beeps. Go to iox and finish the linking process. If this affects multiple devices, you can put iox into linking mode and press set on multiple devices before completing linking in iox

The yolink hub 2 offers speaking phrases if you have yolink devices. I've thought about it as mine is located in the main living area. Not sure if there is an audio out though for larger scale projects Michel has an audio plug-in for this purpose. You'd need some hardware but worth a look.

Per @Techmancomments, and mine above... replugging has bought you the time to order a new one and install... NOW is a really good time to make a backup

I'm leaning towards plm, mainly if your links table is empty. You could try unplugging the plm, waiting 10 seconds and plugging back in. If that works it's partial confirmation that the plm is dying. How old is the plm?

Wi-Fi things, including this stat have come back from power failures on their own in the past at my last house and here. It's an Asus RT- AX88. Though a few years old, it is over configured for core count, core speed, memory and NVRAM for our current use, 14 devices total. Guess there's nothing to do about it but find out when the ecobee app can't contact.

We hope so. We've only had one "lost" day this trip (starting 8/29) because of weather. Looking forward to trying out the Shorts brewery "mother ship" location

Asked my neighbor Steve to take a look and take a pic of it.... And got this 🤪😂 It was simply disconnected from the router and didn't try to reconnect on it's own (?) he said no power outages in our neighborhood since we left It's working now

Thanks @dbwarner5.. and also showed the same on iox. The weather/forecast appears close too, but then realized that's coming from cloud and not the stat. In the UP we've been to Brevoort lake, Sylvania, black river harbor and Marquette today at the UP beer fest. FWIW, we'll be in Antrim this time next week for the paddle Antrim event.

@larryllix.. if the stat's not connected to Wi-Fi, I'll have to pull it off the wall to restart it, or pull the c-wire from the furnace. I can't see the display from +400 miles away right now to know if I have options, or it's locked up. I'll contact my neighbor to see if there was a lighting strike and go in to look at the display

I've had an ecobee smart stat and plugin for ~9 month. I've used the built in ecobee features and the plugin, wrote programs and don't think about it much.. except when traveling. We left a week ago for 3 weeks camping in Michigan's upper peninsula and northern Michigan.. and of course the first stop the first night, the ecobee app reports "offline" 🤷🏽‍♂️. The plugin, via UDM, thought things were ok. It's been between then and now that there's enough signal to do anything and I can connect ot the house pc. Iox also thinks things are ok, if I change modes or fan modes, iox shows a change. I tried turning on AC and set the temp down 3 degrees, it shows a change of mode to cool, but run state of idle. I log into the router, and ecobee is no longer there on the list of wifi devices, but yolink and ring are along with other things are I don't think I've heard anyone report offline in the ecobee app. I have had the plugin report that ecobee, as opposed to the plugin is offline and back again and that has never been an operational problem. Has anyone had this problem? I'm guessing the plugin is communicating with the ecobee "cloud", and it talks to the thermostat