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paulbates

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Everything posted by paulbates

  1. It seems within the last couple of updates, one of the 2 advertisements was dropped, probably to eliminate the confusion of having 2
  2. It's called Eagle-200 in the production store. You'd go there to load it and get access to the git for docs There's also a forum support thread, with no entries, you'd be the first....
  3. It's port 3000 for eisy / pg3 http://"eisy IP address":3000 You'll want to continue to access the pg2 on whatever you were running that on, on its ip address, not the eisy's.. rpi?
  4. Can you get to the fixtures? The neutral will be there in one of them and hopefully the hot and the switching wire... if so you can put the module there... and probably have more room for the micromodule. Open them up and take a look, one of them will probably have live hot and neutral and feed the others.
  5. To add to @DennisC's great answer, UDI offers consulting help. It would be a good idea to buy that and let them remote in and evaluate and propose an higher level migration plan for you. Scroll to the bottom of this page. https://www.universal-devices.com/store/#top-row
  6. Glad to hear you're working The capacitors can be repaired if you're good with a soldering iron and working on electronics. If not (I'm not), I would dispose of it
  7. Can you post 10 - 20 log entries, especially ones that repeat?
  8. There are those here a lot more knowledgeable about electrical theory and problems than me, but they haven't chimed in, so here goes: There are similar stories here on the forum. Here's one, a long read but worth it Temporarily disconnect the powerwall from the house power long enough to confirm that the problem goes away when you do. If it does, see 3. below. If it doesn't, you'll need to go breaker by break to establish where it's coming from, then go to 3. below when you find it. It seems likely it's the powerwall given the timing, but powerline actual problems vs perceived problems have been a slippery, unpredictable slope in my experience. Consider filtering options, which will be a guessing game. Insteon makes a plug in filter but I'm guessing that's not how your powerwall is wired to your house Insteon makes these. They are designed to go near the flicker light, but I would suggest trying it near the powerwall. There are 2 types and Insteon mentions that they can't say what will work in what situation, just try, This is the link to the install page. Not that expensive to try out. Good luck!
  9. Hard to say for sure, but relatively easy to eliminate as the culprit.
  10. It's possible. I believe the admin console steps through the list of devices and won't avoid sensors unless that battery option is set. It's easy to try and see if it will complete.
  11. I have had great experience with couplers. I had a signallinc from Insteon at my last house. Now that they don't make them any longer, I built my own from parts I found on mouser from a recommendation from Insteon for my new house . The parts were like $15 delivered. They have to go into your electric panel, so you have to be comfortable with that or find an electrician to do it for you.' If you're interested I can dig up the order from mouser
  12. Do you have battery devices like motion or door sensors? Those have to be individually put in set mode for their turn. There's a little battery icon with a +/-on the top of the admin console you can click. It will avoid all battery devices so powerline devices finish. Then you unclick it and do each battery device one at a time
  13. To add to @Techman's comments... outdated firmware means that it's i1, not i2 Insteon protocol and it wont support more modern Insteon devices, or not as well as they should be.
  14. I'm guessing @Guy Lavoie is right. It's a long shot, but easy to try: factory reset it followed by a restore device. Older Insteon switches that run for years can "flake out" but sometimes be recovered this way
  15. It's probably worth a factory reset it. Press the set button in and hold it till it beeps. Then go back and put the eisy in linking mode, and the go tap the set button quickly till it beeps.
  16. For X10, enter the house code and unit code, eg C14. For Insteon, use the "Start Linking" option under the linking menu, and then press the set button. Do it order, or even one at a time if all over the house to keep it straight... or have a helper with a smartphone or walkie talkie to help keep it straight
  17. I would order it from Insteon. I think the USB is cleaner, but if you have the cable and your eisy is already configed for it, serial probably makes sense. This is the procedure You would back up the eisy first. If your PLM is dying there may be some polluted links in the eisy's Insteon tables that will get backed up with it... usually fixed with individual "restore device"s based on which ones have problems. Also wireless devices have to be put in set mode and restored individually
  18. That's an old PLM... 21st week of 2016. And if memory serves me correctly, 2016 was in the era of bad capacitors = bad PLMs. I'd order a new one and replace it on your terms rather than when it dies at an inopportune time You have a backup from right before you set up your eisy? When you get a new PLM, I'd restore that backup to the eISY, and then "Restore PLM" from that backup. Also, if your PLM is with in 15' of your eisy, you can get a USB PLM
  19. It's never a bad idea to suspect a PLM 🤪. Seriously, the age of the PLM matters. Can you shoot a picture of the back with all numbers/IDs/stickers shown and post back here? Also, I would: Unplug the PLM, wait 10 seconds and plug back in Repeat the eisy power on/off.. did it report the same problems? Run the "4 tap test" on your access point or other plug in devices. Go look at your Insteon devices and see how they respond to it. Keep track of which is on which power leg, that will help with the next recommendation below. Start keeping track of the devices it reports in the messages, look for commonalities like which power leg they are on.
  20. From an older manual https://wiki.universal-devices.com/ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Scope,_Precedence_and_Execution_Order Another one: https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/6507-program-order-of-execution/
  21. This appears to be an out-of-the-box eisy problem. It happened to me fall of 23 when I bought mine, and there was recently someone else with the same problem. The answer is to leave it alone with the programs as written and give it a day or 2. It eventually starts working right and the problem will not return
  22. The 2413S is what I was referring to. Did you have to unplug and replug it to get things working? If yes, and you start having flaky Insteon problems again, eg not able to control devices, the 2413S is likely going bad.
  23. No, Its the Insteon module that the black box connects to via a cable and plugs into the wall, it connects the ISY to your insteon devices. Older ones are notorious for working great for years, then acting flaky for a while, then failing
  24. There's a couple of ways to investigate, in easy to try order: It's rare, but I have been shipped devices that need to be factory reset to get working How old is your PLM, 5+ years? The "lost connection" to a couple of switches comment makes it suspect. Unplug it wait 10 seconds, and plug back in. If this fixes the problem, its not a fix, you are on borrowed time and need to replace it. Is the switch far away in your home, far away from the PLM and other Insteon wireless devices? It's a pain, but temporarily wire it in closer to your PLM. I have a 3 prong plug-in cord end from the hardware store I use for setting up and testng... see if it works nearby the PLM
  25. @CoolToys Yes, I've had to change my approach to security that was previously local only. I have yolink and ecobee that each require cloud side. Each of their plugins access the devices in my house back through the cloud accounts. One partial advantage vs local only is that I assign ecobee and yolink to an iot/guest network so they can't see my other phone/tablet/pc devices. I also "force feed" both of them NextDNS's ad/spy/malware blocking DNS addresses to limit their data collection or interaction with a nefarious host. I also "caved" and using the Alexa on my ecobee but it's constrained the same as the ecobee.
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