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paulbates

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Everything posted by paulbates

  1. I would say that there are tiers of products for smart thermostats and ecobee is very good value for the capability, quality, dependability and service as you mentioned. It's designed to be an home automation integrated product and I'm not as worried about them pulling the rug out from underneath my working system like Nest would have. I bought mine from them as refurbished for $125 and it came with one remote sensor... in my experience that's good money for something that works.
  2. Hmmm. Pretty strange. One more relatively easy traffic related suggestion. Most Insteon switches have an option called "blink on traffic" or something like that. The switches status light will blink when it sees any (or perceived) Insteon traffic. I'd suggest picking one or a couple of switches near where you are when the tests are run, turn that feature on temporarily and see how long the blinking goes for. Typically it will be a few seconds, if it's longer or continuous, something is going on traffic wise.
  3. Isy can take a max of 16GB. You'll need to buy a new 16GB No. Create a fresh file set on your PC by copying the contents of the old card there. For the files it can't copy, take note of file name and directory. Then unzip the backup on to your PC in a different location. Use the list you created to repair the file set on your PC by copying from the unzipped backup location on the PC. Then copy the results onto the fresh card.
  4. No. Restore PLM will be on the file menu. If it does help, it will be temporary.
  5. A PLM with only 2 links is a broken PLM, there should be at least dozens of links. 1622 means week 22 of 2016, a period when PLMs had the bad capacitor issue. I don't disagree with @Techman on aligning FW/UI versions, but your PLM is on borrowed time.
  6. Ok, pressing and holding for 5 seconds factory reset the switch, wiping out its link table. You need to go into the admin console, pick the device and "restore device"
  7. Also, try a "restore device" on the one example you gave and retest.
  8. How old is your PLM. There'll be a sticker with 4 digits on the back that can be decoded here if you don't know. Try unplugging and replugging the PLM and retesting... If things start working it will mean the PLM is starting to die. Also, can you post an image of the PLM links table; how many links are in it and how many devices do you have?
  9. Not a zwave user. I'd search the forum for that topic, even recently some discussions about it. If that doesn't answer it, post a new topic in the right sub-forum Given the name of this thread, the new question will likely not be seen by many.
  10. You can add a new eisy to your renewed account @ my.isy.io
  11. To @oberkc's point: I went back and looked at the iox program you posted, and he has a point that plausibly explains what you're seeing Set 'MB Kelly Watch Winder' Fast Off Set 'Garage Lights' Off Wait 5 seconds Set 'Kitchen Main Lights 3 way' Off Set 'House Front' Off Set 'Garage Front Porch Lite' Off The commands inside of the 2 groups, before and after the "Wait 5 seconds", are banging into each other. Each "Set" command is creating messages to the Insteon device, and the Insteon device is responding. The next 'Set' command from the PLM is banging into that return message from the switch... then its retrying.. more collisions There are 2 ways to address this: (Recommended). Put each group of devices into a scene and turn the scene on or off. Scenes don't send clean-up messages, no wait is needed Put a 2 or 3 second wait after each direct device command.
  12. You're almost there.... under Else Set "Missouri Christmas Lights" Off
  13. Try the windows computer route: Copy the files off the current card, taking note of every file that it can't copy because it can't access it, but click continue each time so it keeps going Find those in the unzipped backup and replace them: If its more files than nodes I'd come back here and list them Copy the updated file set on a new card Hope that it works, you'll want to verify devices afterwards The card is FAT 32, but scroll to the second post here were it's recommended to format the new card on the ISY via telnet
  14. I have several these directly linked to an Insteon chime/siren and with Notification plugin messages to pushover. One of them went off once near the well, I had placed it too close. I cleaned the sensor like you did, pulled the chime module out of the wall to shut it up for a while and plug it back and replaced the sensor on the floor a little further away.
  15. I shows the last status change and that can take a while. "Blank" probably means the eisy was reset. Did you try pulling the battery after drying it with the towel and letting it sit an hour?
  16. Add the keys to a scene and make them both controllers. Add the light too
  17. You'll want to restart the isy after that change if you didn't
  18. paulbates

    Polisy to eisy

    If what you have is working for you, I wouldn't.
  19. Should work... I want the fewest physical connectors possible for wiring.
  20. My suggestion, if you have a choice of which controller to have remote, is to switch to a serial PLM and get UDI's conversion cable.... there have been reports on different forums in the past of going 50' or more over serial. You might have to get a custom extension cable made or look them up on line as they are traditionally male- male and you'll need female - male. This post discusses the pin outs.
  21. Did you just migrate to eisy? If yes, there is a know quirk with the first run programs that use time of day... leaving it as is and letting it run for a day or 2 will permanently resolve it
  22. Yes... You've documented several symptoms, especially the restore that works temporarily
  23. The eisy in unique in that there are different functions associated with pressing the power button X times... I don't have the link right now My suggestion is for you to submit a ticket
  24. You can try factory resetting it and restore device, assuming it's insteon and especially if it's been running for years
  25. In addition to Guy's comments, can you say what the previous switch was and how the wires were connected to it? Is it a 3 way in concert with another switch?
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