someguy

(this was a duplicate post)

(this was a duplicate post, sorry)

Interestingly enough, it first says there is a certificate problem and then when I click to proceed despite this concern, then I get an IE error page that says the same thing it would say if you browse to a website that doesn't exist.

so, how do I browse to my isy from outside my home network? I have tried using: https://xx.yy.zz.aa/ it doesn't work. I "disabled internet access" in the isy but still have the port forwarded to 443 like it shows above in the picture I posted.

I still can't get past the 0.0.0.0 result mentioned above. I've tried rebooting. I confirmed that I have my port forwarded: Any other ideas as to how to get this fixed? thanks, someguy

what about icon switches? I have two Icons that beep also. someguy

I just yesterday noticed that the ISY gives the option to beep various insteon devices. I'd like to know which devices have the beep capability? Is this new? Do only new switches of certain types have the beep? I'd also like to know what the difference between "1 (beep duration)" and "17 (beep duration)" or any other number is. does it change the beep setting in the switch (like scene adjust does) or does it just make it beep. thanks, someguy

when I enable internet access, that is what my popup message says. I'm using 2.7.13. Any ideas as to how to fix this?

but seriously, what does "code freeze" mean?

what does "code freeze" mean? is it the codename, like "Operation Thunder" or something? (bad joke)

I subscribed to the 2.7.12 and received the email with the link. I clicked on the email and it says that I am registered and that I will receive instructions via email. I have not. two questions: 1) how do I get 2.7.12 installed. by the way, I'm on 2.7.5 now. 2) why is 2.7.12 so much more challenging to get installed when compared to the older versions? thanks for the help, someguy

my answer for this problem is not using the screw. The only place that the screw would really be needed would be for an outdoor use for the motion sensor.

I found this and did what it says: http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... ake_On_LAN when I click test, am I supposed to do that from another computer and then run over to my computer and see if it woke up?

Rich: How are you using IR with your ISY? I have an IR capable ISY-99, but it is in a closet in my basement. I have thought of ways to get the IR down there, but haven't made it happen yet. Are you using the your TV remote to send the IR signals? I've thought of programming the IR code that turns on my Audio system to do certain things to the lights. thanks, someguy

thanks very much.

I'd like to put my thermostat programs in a folder and put a condition on that folder that runs the programs"if X program is true". I'll then have a program, called X that becomes true after no motion sensors have been tripped for over 12 hours. Here is my concern: if the ISY reboots, could the program called X be neither true nor false? If not, then what decides if a program is true or false at reboot? thanks, someguy

I'd like to complete this thread. This solution worked and I no longer have the half-links and the problems noted above. thanks very much!

okay, I removed all 3 switches from every scene that they were a part of and factory reset all 3 switches. Then I restored all 3 switches and created a new scene and put A and B in the scene. Now A and B work properly, but C still controls A and B. I'm now in a trap. If I factory reset C, it doesn't control A or B, but it is no longer connected to ISY. When I restore it, it resumes controlling A and B, despite no obvious info in ISY that it is to control A or B. I appreciate any help. Scott

here was my initial setup: I had two lights in my living room that each have an Icon switch controlling them, lets call them A and B. There is also a third switch © that controls nothing and it was in the scene (in the ISY) to control A and B. I wanted to remove C from the scene and use it to control something else. I went to each scene and removed it, including removing it properly from the remotelinc. When I got finished, C still controlled A and B. I tried factory resetting all 3 switches, which fixed the remaining connections between them, but when I restored all 3 of them, It brought back the connection / problem (C still controls A and and this: Now, both A and B are working very oddly: the Off switch works, but the ON, doesn't work with a tap, but do work with a press and hold. The ramp rates and on levels don't work and won't reset properly. These Icon switches were working fine before. they are 2876D3 and say v.27 in the ISY. I air gapped all of the switches for a second or two and it didn't seem to help. is this an i2 issue? should I just shoot myself?

I have a light that is will be on and when the motion sensor is triggered, it will go off and then go back on again. I've looked for which programs that turn the light on with motion are triggering this and can't figure it out. When I run these "on" programs (from the "program summary" tab) the lights don't go off first, so something else must be turning them off or some kind of an error is occuring. any troubleshooting ideas? is there any way to look through all of my programs to see if there is a mistake that is using the motion sensor "on" signal and turning the lights off? any other ideas? the WAF is going out the window each time this happens. thanks, someguy

the outdoor bulb that I mentioned above is a: Philips Marathon bulb. 15W (plastic enclosed CFL). It says "Ideal for heavily used table lamps, open or enclosed fixture and weather-protected outdoor fixtures".... interesting that there is no model number listed on the box, though box does say 813334 82 cri 2700K -22F to 140F UPC is: 46677 13786 I paid $12.00 for it from www.efi.org (I have no affiliation with them) about two years ago. not sure if this bulb is still available.

I use CFL's in my outside lights and I have a couple of comments: 1) Some CFL's aren't supposed to be used in extremely cold or warm temperatures. Cold is an issue only for some people, but the warm temps are an issue when the light bulb is in an enclosed fixture or in a "can" light. I have had good luck with lightbulbs in a fixture that is not enclosed, but I noticed a short life-span of my can lights until I switched to a special outdoor bulb. If you want the brand/model, I can provide that. 2) When you consider the amount of cost-savings that you have with electricity for a regular CFL (use about 25% of the electricity), I is really worth it to spend 4x the amount of money on the bulb to be able to dim the light some? I'd say not... but I suppose the less electricity you use, the better... just consider that you might spend 4x (or more) for a bulb that may not have a long life, when used in extreme temps. Best of luck and be sure to post how it turns out. someguy

other than the basic User Interface (not the admin console), what are my options to access my ISY from my iphone? Would someone be willing to state their opinion as to whether they are worth the cost? (assuming the app isn't free) thanks, someguy

Michel: when I use the URL that you provide, the file DOES open in Excel. What is different about using that URL? thanks, someguy

http://192.168.0.199:1443/admin