stusviews

I have a couple of those locks with no problems. That doesn't help you, but let's you know that it can be done. Do you have any security range extenders? Your screenshot doesn't show.

Info only: an ISY controller cannot be a controller only, it is also a responder. But, a responder is only a responder.

What's the additional flexibility?

In the setup I described, it will function as the built-in motion sensor does, that is, on with motion and off after a predetermined time with the added ability of using an Insteon command to turn it on if it's off and off it it's on, exactly the way the old Insteon floodlight kit worked. If you want more functionality, then you'll need to use an Insteon manager capable of that. What are you using now to control your Insteon network?

I use Micro Modules with conventional motion sensing floodlights. Connect the wire that goes from the existing sensor to the floodlight(s) to Micro Module sense #1 wire (yellow) instead and the load from the Micro Module to the floodlight(s). And, of course, line and neutral to the Micro Module. That's it.

Once again a quick fix. Million merci

It seems to me that State variables just sit around, too, unless they're woken up. it just doesn't make sense from a programming standpoint, to have to poll anything on a regular basis unless specifically asked to do so.

Well, am I . I gave advice before thoroughly checking. You are correct. Z-Wave devices do not show up in the portal. A scene or program may be the solution.

Z-Wave, Tools, Synchronize Nodes

I don't believe that there's a practical limit. Probably the only concern would be if too many State variables triggered programs concurrently. But that isn't directly related to the actual number of variables. Hey, just go ahead. I'm sure others would like to know if you actually reach a limit

Have you tried Synchronize?

I am correct. The 8-button Mini Remote lists button B at the top, followed by A, C, D, E, F, G and H.

What specific device are you controlling?

I'm wondering why you ask. Is it just curiosity or have you run into a difficulty?

Although not nearly a quarter of a million, I have a relatively large budget and the ISY is still my choice.

That's normal. It has to do with the difference between the 4-button and 8-button Mini Remotes and the firmware. In 4-button mode, the top button is A with the right being On. In 8-button mode, the same On button is button B. Because the Mini Remote mode can be changed using the same firmware, it was probably less complex to label the buttons as they appear with the top right button being B, hence at the top of the list.

Select My Programs. Create a condition that's false. That should prevent any programs from running. (I don't know if it'll stop State variable triggered programs.). Is your ISY still running slow?

I played with HA as a youngster in the early 50s, all home-brewed based on conventions/shows about the future and, mostly, Popular Mechanics magazine. I got a bit more serious about HA in the late 70's and early 80's, mostly X10 and and, a few home-brewed devices. Half a century later is not the early stages. However, we are in the somewhat early stages (less than a couple of decades) of using sophisticated micro processors for HA and, even more recently, AI.

How many hours on? How may off? Something like this timer may be all you need. There are also electric time clocks that let you have many more On/Off cycles. Here's one that offers 12 On/Off cycles. Edit: 36 cycles

The very bottom of Smart Home, Devices.

That's a new one on me. If nothing else helps, a Faraday cage (copper screen) should be easy enough to build. Just wrap the ISY or create something more elaborate

Why not use a repeat statement? The only difficulty I see is running forever. OTOH, there's not much that's forever

How is that different from the existing ability to create groups, other then it being smartphone ability?

If you pulled out the tab, held it and when you let go it returned, then you didn't pull the tab out far enough. You need to pull the tab out enough so that it stays out on it's own. Then tap it so it returns on it's own. As Gary said, if you push the tab all the way in, then you may reset the device.

If you delete them from the portal, then delete them from the Alexa app as well. The app never forgets unless told to do so