stusviews

What WiFi portion? Are you running your ISY using WiFi? If so, how?

The ISY does not understand manually linked devices. Create a scene with each device being a controller of the scene.

Forget All followed by Discover works. Devices, scenes and programs no longer show as off-line. This procedure also forgets and re-discovers devices, scene and programs. Groups need to be re-created. A major change, for the good IMO, is that Insteon devices are in the Devices panel and Insteon scenes are in the scene panel. With v2. both devices and scenes were considered devices.

Adjusting the overall scene settings is inadequate. Select each individual device separately in the scene and adjust each accordingly.

The point is a neutral is required, even if it has to be supplied by repurposing a wire.

A few concerns (not in any way to be construed as complaints): All devices show as offline. (Schlage) deadbolts appear twice. Dimmable Insteon devices appear twice, one as the original entry and the others as an entry labelled, "ISY Dimmable device" followed by the Insteon ID.

Absolutely true, If the Firmware and UI are not identical, then you can expect the unexpected. Teken is correct, too. Specificity is the key. You also mentioned, "a scene that doesn't do anything correctly." What exactly doesn't it do? What should it do? Details, details, details...after checking for correct ISY versions.

That'd precisely the purpose of the single-button remote.

What problem(s) are they experiencing? Is this to be done at your expense? If so, then why after two years? Two years the entire warranty for the Hub. Did you give them a warranty beyond that? Or are you just a nice person?

All version of the ISY are identical in size. Any ISY is adequate for a small installation. If your Insteon network grows, and it probably will, then as indicated by Teken, you can always upgrade. The ISY can be upgraded to the Pro on-line, so there's no additional expense other than the upgrade cost. Disable battery writes turns off updating battery powered devices when doing maintenance tasks. That saves time because battery powered devices need to be updated one-at-a-time and be placed in linking mode and if they're not turned off then the ISY will try to upgrade them although they're not in linking mode. A minor, but time consuming annoyance.

I use Alexa, Echo and/or Computer as wake words (different accounts/rooms). I haven't noticed any differences in response times than can be attributed to the wake word. Nor any different in misunderstood commands. The responses are all mediocre. The problem is with Amazon, not the ISY skill. I can say that with come certainty as I have skills that don't depend on the ISY at all (e.g., Harmony) and those responses exhibit the same irregularities. Anxiously awaiting the V3 skill. Thanks again, Benoit

Where do you intend to use the internal sensor? It's not weather/water proof.

My response was specifically to the quoted statement. It was not meant as an all inclusive reply. That's why I included the quote.

If the Double Door or the Single Door is turned off or the Side Door Switch is turned on by any means (e.g., a program or manually), the yes. it will happen every time. Two programs, as suggested by Gary, is a solution.

Relying on the original description, the "big bundle" is most likely the white wire from the fixture (line) connected to the white wire on the 3-wire cable. That would make the white wire at the switch box with only one 3-wire cable the line and black and red travelers. At the switch box with one 3-wire cable and one 2-wire cable, the two white wires are line (one from the fixture and one to the other switch), black and red from the 3-wire cable are travelers and black from the 2-wire cable (from the fixture) is load. Z-Wave devices require a neutral. From the description of the wiring, if correct, there is no neutral wire in either switch box.

In a 3-way configuration, there's at least one white wire that's not a neutral. Line can be any of black, red or white. The same is true of the load wire. If the wiring is as you describe, than there is no neutral in either box. At the box with only three wires, one is the load or line which can be any color. The other two wires are travelers. The same is true of the three wire cable at the other end which has a 3-wire cable and a 2-wire cable. The 2-wire cable is from the light. It's most likely that white is line and black is load. Can you confirm that one switch box has only a 3-wire cable and the other switch box has only a 3-wire cable and a 2-wire cable? You can disregard ground wires, if any. If so, then you'll need a Micro Module to create the virtual 3-way configuration. That's because, regardless of the wire colors, there is no neutral in either switch box.

Scenes are not dimmable. The Alexa app will allow dimming if you create a group containing the scene and any device in the scene that you'd like to dim. Give both the scene and the device(s) spokens that you won't use and name the group the spoken you want to use. I don't know if thare's a Google Home equivalent to Alexa groups.

Tip: Don't take any shortcuts--at all. Follow the procedures Paul linked to to the letter. If things don't go smoothly, then you erred somewhere. Take a lengthy break before you start anew.

Turn on the errant device. The LEDs should be lit as well as the load. Flip breakers one-at-a-time until the device loses power. What else is on that circuit?

Where is the KPL located relative to the PLM? Same circuit, different circuit? Do you have any other Insteon devices on the same circuit as the new KPL?

Does something change the state of the garage Side Door Switch, for example, do you turn it on after leaving the garage?

There are two modes that have that option, Heat Ctl and Cool Ctl that send an Insteon On whenever heating and/or cooling is called for, respectively. When the set point is met, that is, heating or cooling is turned off, then an Insteon Off is sent. You can use both in the same program, if desired, and totally automate the process, for example, disable and/or re-enable your motion sensor programs.

If the fixtures are standard underwater pool lighting, then you should have no difficulty installing any bulb. I've not had any difficulty installing LED bulbs in an enclosed fixture, contrary to the warnings. YMMV.

Great when a phone call comes in and the music is really loud

It's unusual, but does happen, that due to an especially snug fit, that a blade does get left behind. It just makes sense (to us in the trade) to loosen, then pull. And the worst is just pulling on the cord with no grip on the plug itself.