stusviews

First and foremost, for safety's sake, be aware that for any 3-way switch configuration, a white wire connected to the switch is never, ever a neutral wire. Any color can be line, even the white wire. Each 3-way switch has three connections (that's why they're called 3-way). One end of the configuration connects to the line (black screw) and the other end connects to the load (also a black screw), The other two (brass) screws at each end are travelers. From the first set of images with the box that has only three wires, it appears that a black wire is either line or load. You don't show which wire connected to the black screw at the other end. Most common, at the switch box with three and only three wires, the black is line and load is at the other end. If you can determine that, then connect all the white wires together to provide a neutral at both boxes. Connect what you know is line at the box with multiple wires to the black wire from/to the other switch box (the one with only three wires) and to the Insteon switch (and anything else that was/is connected to line-if it's the same circuit). The box with multiple wires also seems to have the load wire. Connect that to the load wire on the Insteon switch. Cap the other red wires. If the switch controls the load, the you're more than 99/100 there Wire the second switch to neutral and line. Create a scene with both switches as controllers. Check and close up the boxes.

I've added several 2844-222 Motion Sensors to an ISY 994i running firmware and UI 4.6.2. However, the ISY doesn't allow setting the various parameters, only the default is possible--unless you have access to an Insteon Hub. Duration, sensitivity, etc. can be set using the Hub and remain in place after adding the MS to the ISY

Yup, the ISY regulators can handle the various voltages. Current ratings (amperage) is the maximum capability, not what is utilized. A 100 amp supply will provide 0.002 amps if that's all the device requires, it will not push 100 amps into the device.

Duplicate posts may result in conflicting responses. Delete the other before someone responds.

Not possible if those are the only wires in each box. That is, it is possible to have only these wires, but then the labels you assigned are incorrect. Describe all the wires in each box and especially what color is conected to the black scrwe at each box and what's connected to the brass screws. You can disregard any ground wires.

That's true. You can use the ISY portal with MobiLinc, but not with the MobiLinc portal or you can use the MobiLinc portal without the ISY portal. That is, only one portal at a time. Wes is really helpful, have you asked at the MobiLinc forum?

Any power supply rated 5-30VDC, 2A capacity will suffice (center +, ring -). I use a 12VDC power supply originally meant for a camera. The ampere rating is more important than the voltage, so anything that supplies 2 or more amps should work.

Most outdoor NEMA outlet enclosures will fit an I/O Linc plugged into the top outlet of a duplex receptacle.

Wildstar, the All On/Off that you heard about is a command response, not a controller/trigger. Due to an unintended "All On" that sometimes occurred for no apparent reason, that response has been deleted from Insteon devices. There has never been All On/Off command that didn't require that the device(s) be linked one-at-a-time. That's a safety precaution. I also now use programs for turning off large numbers of devices, the only reason being to reduce the number of links. That can be wearisome if you wan to include all responders, for example, secondary buttons and paddles. I did that over time, a room-at-a-time with the furthest room turning off first and continuing sequentially toward the All Off location which adds a pleasing aesthetic.

Virtually every TV provider (e.g., DirectTV, Dish, AppleTV, FireTV, Roku, etc.) allows pausing and resuming "live" TV.

Also, battery power devices show a blank state until they're activated normally for the first time.

That's true is you're controlling the device. It's not necessary if the replaced device is a scene member and you're controlling that scene, but there's nothing wrong with doing so

If Write Updates doesn't appear to do anything, select Restore first followed by Write Updates.

Describe the wiring in swtich box, the colors and how they are grouped (e.g., one 2-wire cable, two 3-wire cables, etc.). If possible, indicate which wire in each 3-way switch box was originally connected to the black screw and which were connected to the brass screws. You can disregard any ground wires. Are you using a voltmeter or a voltage indicator?

Post you program (select the program, right click, Copy to Clipboard).

What does MQTT have to do with editing links between Insteon devices? What are you trying to accomplish be editing links?

I use a Harmony Hub with the ISY IR module to control lighting. Using standard codes provided by the IR module, buttons on the Harmony hub can send the desired code. An ISY program is created with the code as a trigger. You must use an unused Harmony remote button. LR Begin Movie 1 If From Sunset To 3:05:00AM (next day) And ( Control 'LR / Devices / LR Movie Time 1' is switched Off Or Control 'LR / Devices / LR Movie Time 2' is switched Off Or IR 'IR_001' is Pressed (this is the ISY IR code) ) Then Set Scene 'LR / Scenes / LR Movie Time' Off Set 'KT / Devices / KT Ceiling 50' 10% Set 'LR / Devices / LR Sofa Tabletop 1' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set 'LR / Devices / LR Sofa Tabletop 2' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set 'CR / Devices / CR KPL LR Light' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set 'LR / Devices / LR Movie Time 1' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set 'LR / Devices / LR Movie Time 2' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set 'LR / Devices / LR Ceiling Light KPL 20' On 2 / Off 1 (Backlight Level) Set Scene 'DR / Scenes / DR Ceiling Light' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

At that point, we wouldn't need ourselves. We'd have nothing to do and plenty of time to do it. And, no. I won't define it.

You think, I think, we all think. AI doesn't

With multiple portal accounts, I can line in bed and say, "Alexa, the the fan on." And when I'm in the living room, the same command turns on the living room fan. Only the dining room fan turns on when I issue the same command from that room. I do use a different wake word if the Echos are within earshot of each other

Just to be clear, there are two ZigBee modules. The ISY can support either one, not both. Follow Teken's advice, call Brultech first. You may or may not need an ISY Pro, but if not now, then the ISY can be easily upgraded later. Also, if you include the ZigBee module, then you cannot also add the Z-Wave module.

There is NO easy way to manage both the Hub and the ISY for the same devices. That's even true for multiple ISYs. For the most part, changes made by one may not be recognized by the other. It is possible to maintain both, I do, But you must be diligent. Again, it can be done, but it's not easy

That's not just correct, but as it should be IMO. "Alexa, what's the living room temperature?" returns the ambient living room temperature, not the set point, "Alexa, what is the living room set to?" correctly reports the set point.

Pre-Micro Module, I was able to fit two In-LineLincs into a ceiling box, so two Micro Modules shouldn't be a problem. Well, I actually did that, ttoo. Now fully controlled by a FanLinc with one KPL button for all three speeds plus off and one KPL button for dimming LED bulbs. The fan is a low cost Hunter and the bulbs are high cost Sylvania.

How about, "betty sped?"