stusviews

When you originally add the 6-buttom KPL, the buttons are labelled with the Insteon ID followed by .1, .A, .B and .C. The first listed name, that is, .1 represents the On/Off pair of buttons, specifically the top and bottom buttons, respectively. A, B, C and D are secondary buttons, functionally equivalent to B, C, D, E, F and G on the 8-button KPL. For the 6-button KPL, button A should not control the load at all unless you added that specific button as a scene controller in addition to the .1 button. Keep in mind, that although it's a 6-button keypad, it's a 5-scene controller.

The 6-button Keypad is a 5-scene controller. With or without a load, the top button is always on and the bottom button is always off. The top and bottom buttons cannot be separated, they behave as a paddle does. It doesn't matter if the keypad is a 6- or 8-button device, only the small buttons get an alpha label.

I sent a PM

Caution: The Mini Remote requires a wall behind it, not an open switch box. No wire nuts needed at all. X10 3-way switches did require wiring between the primary and slave. I wired for that (started with X10). Came in handy when, due to reconfiguration, I was able to change which device was wired to the load. Not really needed in most situations. Fortunately, we have an electronic recycle center nearby. And, yes, being able to repurpose devices is a very important advantage, IMO. The initial price differential can be worth it, but diminishes as enthusiasm expands. Yes, that happens. Thanks also to Teken for all your sometimes lengthy, but eye-opening posts. BTW, today is the anniversary of the mostly unneeded hash tag, Exceptions noted for #me and @me, ¥me too, also Θme

Where are you located?

When you select Discover, do you get, "Alexa is looking for devices?" At the portal screen, do you see something similar to:

HVAC transformers are plentiful. Because you won't be switching a compressor or furnace. even the least costly is adequate, so your only concern is installation (i.e., how it's mounted)..

There are actually two ISY skills; ISY and ISY Optimized for Smart Home V2. You need to install the latter skill (or both)..

Nearly every switch has been replaced with a KPL (each and every switch has been replaced with an Insteon or other HA device). We also use 4 and 8-button Mini Remotes as well as several original Insteon remotes (2440). I replaced most single-gang boxes with 2-gang boxes. There's no room entry that doesn't offer control for, not just everything in that room, but adjacent rooms as well. One device for both lighting and windows Left device=lighting; right device=window coverings 4-gang added where 4-gang didn't fit (between window and door) Oops, images are rotated.

Our home, built nearly 100 years ago, did not have electric at all. Although we have all the plans and permits, we don't know when the 2nd owner added electric power. We bought the house just over two decades ago. Surprisingly, we're only the 3rd owners in all this time. The second owner expanded the house and we added to that. In any case, there were no 3-way configurations at all when we purchased. For convenience, as I automated (originally X10, then Insteon), I added bunches of TableTop enclosures with KPLs. There's no place to sit (or lie) in this house without a TableTop or phone within reach. In-wall Keypads are ubiquitous. So are Motion Sensors. And with the advent of the Portal and ten in use Echo devices, we rarely touch a switch. Even our sound and video systems are primarily voice controlled. It's been fun all the way. Not bad for someone closing in on eight decades

Our home is very automated, laziness rules. In particular, we don't need to ambulate to control lights, both interior and exterior, gates, window coverings, sound systems, video, etc. We do have to relocate our body in order to cook, load the dishwasher, do laundry and/or go out to eat or fetch a beer or glass of wine. Even our wine bottle opener is automated

That'll only work with a line voltage thermostat. But one could power cycle a standard thermostat using an I/O Linc.

Reread my post. I did indicate that, Actually, nearly every KPL button is part of a multiway configuration, but only a few SwitchLincs have a "wasted" load wire

Thanks

That's the device I referred to in post #16. Thanks for the easier search term

Wow, you'd sacrifice three vehicles to secure your garage!

Somfy doesn't sell to the end user. They don't even make window coverings. For the most part, Somfy windows coverings are custom made. That usually means a higher cost, but IMO, Somfy is among the most reliable and custom made means best fit and style and color. No, RTS is not the same as Z-Wave. All our window coverings (14 in all) are RTS. I've read that Somfy Z-Wave does not have all the features that RTS has, but don't have experience with that. What I can do with RTS alone using a handheld or in-wall remote is up, down, stop and one preset position. The in-wall remotes can be installed in an existing switch box or any open wall space using the included old work bracket. With the ISY, a Network module, an Autelis Somfy interface and a Somfy URTS interface includes all I've mentioned plus three presets (even more with programs), and open or closed or any preset based on time (e.g., sunset, sunrise) or action (e.g., watching a movie, using any Insteon controller such as a Keypad, etc.) Yes, it's a bit costly, but that's the price to pay for full home automation happiness Virtually every button, every paddle here is custom etched. It took years to get to this pint, oops, I mean point (or take in out). Check out www.fabritecdesigns.com to see what's available. They do not sell retail.

Virtually every factory reset requires manual pressing. That's a security feature that, IMO, should not be bypassed however nice that would be. Security should never be nice and easy. The nicer and easier, the less secure! It may help if you delete, re-add and restore the thermostat using the Insteon ID.

I'm using two of the Z-Wave Multi-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge. At $60, it's among the lowest cost garage door controllers and has both controller and sense connections, same as the I/O Linc. Actually if notification is all you really need/want, then the Insteon Open/Close sensor will fill the bill. A perusal of the SH web site indicates that you can get two for only twice as much as one: https://home-automation.smarthome.com/search?w=insteon%20open%2fclose%20sensor

Way back, Insteon did have a SwitchLinc without load capability at a lower price. Apparently, they didn't sell well or the cost was too low for profitability, otherwise they'd still be available. In any case, the vast majority of devices in our home that have a load wire are connected to a load. Of those with an unused load wire, most are in Tabletop enclosures, a few are part of a 3-way configuration. But, the OP's request is a device that does have a load wire in which the load can be separated from other switch functions. Seems to me that that would actually be more costly.

Do the times provide any clues. And to you have a way to close the garage door when you get a notification?

You may as well consider every Insteon device that includes a load wire, including the Micro Module, a waste because none allow separating the load from all the other functions. Not just Insteon devices, but Lutron, Z-Wave, X10, ZigBee and a host of others

Send yourself a notification each time the garage door opens. That'll at least give a time to search the logs or provide a clue if the time is relatively consistent.

Forget all Echo devices (scroll to bottom), the select Discover.

Not possible.