stusviews

You had every available Alexa skill enabled? Or was my query too vague? If the latter, then which specific Alexa skills did you disable/eliminate?

Which skills did you eliminate? I, too, try to keep it to a minimum; Ask My Buddy (thanks, Teken), Harmony, Ecobee, ISY and Insteon. Except for the first skill named, my primary only purpose for the Alexa device is voice control.

I'm not sure what you mean by "after it is used." My "All Off" program turns off the scenes that control the devices in the program above. That in itself turns the "Front Off" button off.

Are they vampire ants?

I really can't determine the RF range because I have so many dual-band devices that I don't know if the communication is powerline or RF. But, I do know that 10 feared 7 because 7 8 9.

Here's a program I use that lets me know if any one or more particular lights are on. Note that the program evaluates the lights and not the scenes that control those lights because you cannot evaluate a scene for on or off. If the button is lit, then tapping the button turns off the button's LED and triggers another program that controls scenes (plus more, in my case). DR Front Lights Button If Status 'CR / Devices / CR FanLinc-Light 50' is not Off <---"not off" includes any and all On-levels Or Status 'KT / Devices / KT Ceiling 50' is not Off Or Status 'LR / Devices / LR Ceiling Light KPL 20' is not Off Then Set Scene 'DR / Scenes / DR Front Off Button' On Else Set Scene 'DR / Scenes / DR Front Off Button' Off As Jimbo indicated, the button is the only device in the DR / Scenes / DR Front Off Button scene.

Did you power-up the PLM about 5-10 seconds prior to applying power to the ISY? Did you follow the instructions for replacing the PLM? You don't need to reboot the ISY, that occurs automatically.

Except for means of entry, there are only a couple of mindsets to be concerned about when it comes to security and Insteon; those who hack in regardless of age who do it because they can (i.e, just for the fun of it, like that joyride) and those whose primary motive is vengeance. BTW, during my happy hippy days I didn't even know where my door key was. I'm not sure I even had one This in the midst of a major city, never a problem. Possibly having a somewhat vicious dog helped

A difficulty with web based upgrades/updates is the number of devices involved. For the most part, only one device is involved, a graphics card, the ISY, for example. An error, although rare, is usually fixable. An installation with multitudes of devices would probably require multiple downloads increasing the probability of an error. Even at SH headquarters devices are flashed one-at-a-time. Been there, saw that.

Energy tracking? How about a calculator or even pencil and paper. If that's too difficult, then, as I used to tell my students, "You can't always count on your friends, but you can always count on your fingers."

Most of my 9VDC battery eliminators use a power supply and battery clip because SH stopped selling the eliminators, but I didn't stop buying sensors. BTW, I bought a bunch of the clips on eBay.

Isn't that what I said? Actually all but one of my motion sensors are externally powered, both new and old.

Filters are required for the powerline. Z-wave does not use the powerline at all.

How about Canned Heat?

I had a similar problem (duplicate posts with a relatively fixed time between them). My solution was use a second program to disable the message sending program for a bit longer than the time between messages and then to re-enable the message sending program.

Too bad the old MS is battery-powered only. Dual-band coins have twice the value. Perhaps an external power supply will up the worthiness

i1, i2, i2cs, i3cs, icu2

The original motion sensor (2842-222) was designed for exterior use, so it's no surprise that yours lasted for several years. Mine have been installed outdoors even longer and are still working well. And, in fact, the new motion sensor (2844-222) is also meant for outdoor use. Describe your installation that lasted for only a few days.

Banichi, the Somfy RTS transmitters are wireless. Which interface do you have wired to the Somfy motors? BTW, the only Cat5 cable I'm using is between a router and an Autelis Somfy RTS interface and between the Autelis and a Somfy (URTSI) interface. Each motor has an RTS receiver. And yes, the 120VAC motors are quieter than the low voltage motors.

apostolakisl, either you missed my point or you missed a typo, in particular, your post (#12) indicated, "That would make the functional range 12 to 240." Did you actually mean 120 to 240?

How does using a multinational line voltage device (110 to 240VAC, 50 or 60Hz) allow it to function with as low as 12 or even 16VAC? That's really stretching it

How does that reconcile, "and all show up?"

OK, I know what that means. I'm not sure what this sentence means.

I see no reason for a company to use any resource at all on a long discontinued product. Maybe a bit on a recently discontinued device, but long ago discontinued, like years ago--no way. Time is light years better spent on new.

PLMs usually head in the opposite direction