Brian H

There is allot of good information on all kinds of lighting. On the Candle Power Forums. From home assembled lighting to tests and reviews of manufactured lighting. If you have not found them yet. You may want to give them a look. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/for ... d-Lighting

I would call the Insteon Gold Line Support and explain your findings. I feel you have a bad PLM and I think they will also agree. Slightly moving or tapping a PLM should not make the Green LED go On and Off. Along with the intermittent connections and results.

You may want to look at the Kichler.com web site. http://www.kichler.com/consumer/home_pa ... reset=true It looks like they make LEDs in both 120 volt and external 24 volt power supply types. I found some interesting information in their on line catalog pages. http://www.kichler.com/consumer/request_catalog_page Seems their 120 volt LEDs have a limited dimming range with triac type dimmers. Like SwitchLinc Dimmers. 94% to 76%. Also some Dimmable LEDs make power line noise or have noise suppressor in then that can act like a signal sucker. I have used some dimmable LED light bulbs from Phillips, Sylvania, LSG and a few others with good results. On Insteon dimmers as a test. I started with CFLs so most of my in use Insteon devices are On/Off relay types.

Did you clear the Java Cache? In the Help Tab. About Choice. Do both the UI and Firmware numbers show 3.3.7?

If you have query at restart checked in the Configuration Tab. All the modules that are power line interfaced. Will be queried at power up for their status. RF devices will not. They are asleep as previously pointed out. My RemoteLincs buttons show no status after a power restoration until I activate their buttons.

Wiki is back up and I just downloaded the file as a test.

They are in the process of moving files to a new server. Files are going missing and then returning later. Wait a little while and try again.

Seems to be back online and working for me.

I sure wish the forum would warn of another post as we are posting. Anyway LeeG beat me again. So some of this is a duplicate of data. Local Control Sensing Current can frequently cause low current loads like LED and some CFLs to pulse and flicker when the ApplianceLinc is Off. As a test for this put a small 4 watt incandescent night light on the output with the LED light. If it stops pulsing. It is the Local Control Sensing Circuit. Even when the ApplianceLinc has sensing set to Off. The current is still there and just ignored. A 33K Ohm one or more watt resistor can also be used to swamp the sensing current. If it is a hardware revision of 4.0 or higher. It also has a small amount of current through the snubber network, across the open relay contacts. The lower than 4.0 versions didn't have a snubber in them.

Web site is down where the check for a newer version is done. A few others have also reported it. Including me. Ignore it until they can get the files back online.

No probably not your side. Web site has a problem. That link is not working at the moment. I get the same error for the dashboard also. If you use its IP address from your web browser. You should be able to see it. Though you will get a automatic update failed message as its web address is also not working.

Yes 3.3.7 is the latest and I just checked. The web site is still page not found.

I believe there is a problem with the web site. Both Dashboard and the method 'd' access result in a Unable to Launch Application error. Access using the IP address gets me into my ISY994i but also shows a Auto Update Authorization Failure. Download links to the firmware result in a page not found error.

I don't have an ELK in my case. I have the PLM on the AC wall supply and the ISY Power Supply and all the rest of the computing equipment on my UPS. As pointed out. The Insteon signals don't work with no power and will not pass through the AC input filtering found in most UPS units.

I only have the demo version and never used it. I only posted what they said in the users manuals.

Both get replaced. The one with the Load connection to the lights will control them. The other one is wired to Line and Neutral. With its load wire capped off and not used. Both are cross linked to each other. The ISY994i will do all the proper cross linking for you. Here is the multi-way diagram from the 2477D SwitchLinc Dimmer Full Users Manual. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... ay_Circuit

Too bad Light Show Master is gone. It could do up to 20 commands a second. If you had good communications and could use its set Hop Count to 0. With a PLM.

I have also seen Smarthome and Smartlabs stick their head in the sand and blame everyone else for their problems.

Most likely a electronics failure. If you decide to take the cover off. Look at D3, 30 volt zener. A common part that burns up or gets the board hot enough to unsolder itself.

Are you running any Antivirus or Firewall programs? There are a few that can cause problems. I know on my Zone Alarm Setup. I had to add the IP address of my ISY994i to the Trusted Zone.

One difference when using a dimmable LED bulb on a Insteon or any other brand dimmer switch. LED bulbs electronics when turned On have a brief high current In-Rush current and a repetitive peek current as the AC wave changes polarity. Many LED bulb manufacturers give you the equivalent to an incandescent bulb wattage for calculating the number of bulbs on a dimmer or specify how many you can use on a dimmer. Like my Phillips 12.5 EnduraLED watt 60 watt equivalent LED bulbs indicate use 80 watt as your calculating factor. With a 600 watt dimmer. You can take the wattage of the incandescent bulbs and add them up. So on a 600 watt dimmer with 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I can use 10 bulbs 600/60=10 With my EnduraLED bulbs. I use a math factor of 80 watts. So on a 600 watt dimmer I can use 7 of them. 600/80=7.5. Even though they actually are using 87.5 watts.

What is the firmware revision used by your ISY Controller? Help tab About Choice. Revision number should be there and both the User Interface and Firmware versions should be the same.

I saw a review of the Switch Lighting Bulb in the CPF Forums. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sho ... deo-Review http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sho ... ight-bulbs They are a very recent product release and was delayed for a fairly long time. I had signed up a year or more ago for their email updates on their line of bulbs. I am using the Phillips EnduraLED and Lighting Science Group Definity LED bulbs with Insteon devices. Since I have moved from CFLs to LED bulbs. Most of my Insteon devices where of a relay type. I have tested the dimmable LED bulbs on Insteon dimmer type devices and most worked very well. The 60 watt ones are a bit on the pricey side. $49.99 was what I saw. The Sylvania, Philips, LSG and a few other brands are getting much more reasonable.

The shorting out the LCD display has been reported before. It gets its power through the same two wires used to control it. You can rewire the I/OLinc and solder it to the internal push button inside the display that opens and closes it. Others have purchased a extra remote and soldered the I/OLInc relay output to the button inside the remote.

I know others have used an I/OLinc and a Piezo Sounder. The relay Output set to a monetary closure in a EZIO2x4, could be used to do the same thing. viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9846&hilit=Sounder Few points. If you use the +5 volt supply in the EZIO2x4. It is rated at 20mA. So you would have to consider that in selecting a sounder. To set the relay to momentary and to the time in seconds you wanted. The Simplehomenet Utility maybe needed.