Brian H

I believe this is the only thread with the exact information. The part numbers on the right side of the original post are the Mouser Part Numbers. There is No photos or step by step instructions that I have seen. Check the hardware revision sticker on the back. I know my V1.5 and 1.B have the PCB with all the capacitors on it. My older V1.0 has the older PCB and one of the capacitors and small coil tack soldered to the PCB and a Blue Wire running to the back of the PCB. From the later PCB Silk Screened on the PCB: C3 is the 6.8uF 250V C11 is the 100uf 25V C7 and C13 10uF 35V C8 is the 10uF 16V On the older PCB I believe C13 is the one tack soldered to C7. As I did not see a C13 Screened on the PCB.

I found the manual for your opener. It appears it has some intelligence in the controller. That maybe why a simple closure on the Red and White wires doesn't work correctly. Can the controller do things like turning on the Light or have a Motion Sensor in it? Are the Up and Down Arrows on the controller flashing any Diagnostic Codes?

Thank you for the list of parts you used. Anyone with 2413S with the the older PCB. The two original 10uF 35 V caps. Will be on a reworked to add a coil and the second 10uF cap. That are on the newer PCB. They will have long leads and kind of tacked soldered onto the original PCB pads. With the coil between the + side of the caps and a blue wire to the back of the PCB. Never looked at the back of the PCB but imagine a run cut to add the extra filter parts to the unregulated 12 volt supply. One mine has 10uF 25 volt ones in it. Since the unregulated 12 volts is closer to twenty volts. 25 volt caps is not a large safety margin. The other one has the 35 volt ones in it. Could be a size thing as the 25 volt one is smaller and fit better sticking up off of the PCB. If you where a good neat solderer. You maybe able to change the caps on the older revision PCB. My two Hardware 1.0 have the rework but I can't say exactly where the later PCB was used. I know Hardware 1.5 has the later PCB. I doubt anyone has the version Smartlabs has in the FCC Database photos. It has one 10uF cap on the 12 volt supply. No coil or second cap.

If the vendors I use. Had the high voltage one in stock. I would have changed it.

See my earlier entries to this thread and from BLH on the Smarthome Forums. I replaced all four filter caps in the low voltage side of the power supply with good low ESR caps. The low {~7 volts that drifted as it was On over time} 12 volt unregulated became rock steady again. At around its normal 19.5 volts. The Green Status LED was also now acting correctly. Mine was a hardware 1.5. The earlier hardware versions have one of the two 12 volt filter caps and the small coil added as a rework. Hanging up in the air. Tack soldered to the PCB with a Blue Flywire connected to the back. I have not pulled the PCB on an old one but suspect there maybe a cut run or two to accommodate the rework. The same base board is in the hardware version 2.? 2443 Access Point. I am surprised we have not see more of them with issues.

If the PLM is close to or just over two years old. It could be failing. There are numerous reports of PLMs failing. Mine did at two years and three months old. Just out of warranty.

Did something change recently with the 2441ZTH? Last I read the external probes readings where not sent as a message. Only displayed on the module itself. In this thread the 2441ZTH was modify to use the external probe. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/9152-how-to-monitor-water-temp-via-isy-and-catch-more-fish/

The IR adds a small PCB that plugs into a header on the main board and can be added later if someone wanted to add IR. I did that on my ISY99i.

I replaced the four because Samcon and Fujicon brands are both on the list of "Crap Caps" on the Bad caps forums. I would have done the YIHCON high voltage side cap if I could have found one easily. I kept the new one in service as it had later firmware and if it dies in less than two years Smarhome can replace it. I consider it OK to keep as a spare but not tested enough to say 100% fixed.

Thank you for that information. The newer 2456S3 hardware version 4 and above. Have a snubber network across the relay contacts. It also passes some current through the load when it is Off.

I replaced the four capacitors on the low voltage side of the power supply. With a good quality low ESR type capacitor. I feel it was the two directly on the unregulated +12 volts supply as the voltage was very low and went up and down as it warmed up. The other two where on small linear regulators and probably didn't have to be Low ESR. I temporarily jumped the F1 on the serial daughter card {like the old 2412S} so I could read the unregulated +12 volts and let it run cover On. Voltage was steady for two weeks of tests and I did use it for some HouleLinc tests. Also tested it with DockLight Scripting and BusyRats PLM Test program. Was not stressed with lots of duties. Now in the box with F1 removed as a tentative spare if needed.

I am glad to see there is steady progress on the UDI Developed PLM. My recently purchased 2413S should last long enough for yours to be tested, production up to speed and released.

If your USB PLM does not work with HouseLinc. It maybe too old. Early 417 Link Database hardware versions of the PLM are not supported.

Is the LED on the side PLM On?

The XPCP has a tuned coupling transformer in it. Depending on how narrow a frequency it couples. It may not be as efficient with the 131.65 KHz Insteon frequency as the 120 KHz X10 frequency. I would suspect it would work fine.

Some of the sales pages for the Dual Band Devices specify an open air distance with no obstructions. I have seen some say 150 feet, others greater than one hundred feet and some none specified.

2414S? That is the very old obsolete Power Line Controller and is not compatible with any Insteon Module using I2 or I2CS Protocol. Lack of proper handling of Extended Insteon Messages was part of the problem. It did have the ability to have programs downloaded into it and run stand alone. Also had its own RTC chip in it. I still have a few left over from the early Developers Kit and purchased ones. I took the RTC batteries out as they where going flat and I didn't need battery juice inside my units. There is a chart on the 2413S sales page showing the differences. http://www.smarthome.com/2413S/PowerLinc-Modem-INSTEON-Serial-Interface-Dual-Band/p.aspx The two basic PLMs where 2412S and the present 2413S.

You should update the firmware to the latest. 4.0.5 was released before the devices where being sold. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13761-release-428-rc3-is-now-available/

It is an add on firmware module In the Administrative Console Help Tab. Purchase Modules. It should open up a new browser page and tell you what you have and what you can purchase if it is not yet installed.

The only problem with the X10 XPPF is it is rated at five amps. If you push it close to the five amps. The internal coils get quite warm and start to smell hot.

Good to read you found and fixed the problem.

If both setups are completely independent. They should work. Problems happen if you have Insteon devices common to both controllers. Each one does not know the other system exists and can overwrite links in the modules. Not known to the controller.

Momentarily jump the two together. If it works the kit should work. If it works and you have a intelligent display. It may reset the display. If power and data are both on the same two wires.

There is only two wires from the RF remote connected to the fan motor?

That is the "ISY Finder" and is normal for it to be open and behind the admin window.