Brian H

Is the module an X10 brand? The ISY should not be trying to initialize any X10 modules as they are not programmable with power line commands. Did you maybe pick a A10 type module?

The new Insteon forum is also starting to take off now. http://forum.insteon.com/

My brand new 2413S. That replaced the one with the flaky power supply {now burning in after repairs}. Is a Hardware 1.B still has firmware 9B. Appears Smartlabs thinks 9B is a real winner.

Insteon Dimmers can't control Fluorescent Lighting as you know. The relay modules should be able to turn them On and Off. Provided there isn't too much power line noise in your commercial building. There is a Insteon Fluorescent Dimmer module. Designed to use the 0-10 Volt control voltage some of the commercial ballasts can be used with. http://www.smarthome.com/2475DA2/INSTEO ... mer/p.aspx Any Dual Band Module should pass the Insteon commands to each other. With RF and Power Line signals. Power line noise and RF distances again maybe a factor. Fifty feet? That maybe the RF distance but the power line signals should go much farther than fifty feet. Unless you have extreme power line noise or signal absorbers [signal Suckers}. If the building is three phase. You will have to have at least one dual band module that has passed the communications tests with a module on the other phases. Access Points {now called Range Extenders} seem to have the best communications results.

If you decide to go with the non Pro model. Pro can be added with a firmware purchase. No hardware changes are needed. There is a chart of differences between the model on this page. https://www.universal-devices.com/resid ... 4i-series/ There are a few other differences. Like the ability to delay impending writes to devices so you can do one at a time and security levels.

I believe the only way to determine Dual Band is look at the model number and look it up if needed. There is a User Compiled list of devices here. http://www.madreporite.com/insteon/Inst ... e_list.htm Also a search of Smarthome for Dual Band is here: http://home-automation.smarthome.com/se ... ual%20band Dual Band Devices will pass the message by both the Power Lines and by RF. If the distant Insteon Message was by Power Line or RF from the garage to the main house.

If you have not seen the Wiki Migration page. Here is a link to it. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... r_ISY-994i

That sales page leaves much to be desired. Are you sure it is AC? You can't reverse AC and make something reverse. Unless it has two inputs. One for each direction. Web page also says. No limit switches. So you may have to have a way to stop them at full and retracted positions.

Track record for my Insteon modules is all over the place. I have Revision 1.3 ApplianceLincs from 2005 still chugging along. While a fairly new one failed in seven months and was a warranty replacement. I had a 2413S PLM fail in two years and three months. Just over the warranty. Had a few of the older SwitchLincs exhibit the tact switch failure. That Smartlabs extended the warranty to seven years on.

Yes some of them if connected to things like a inductive device or maybe a CFL would beep. To indicate the load was possibly not a dimmable type. Since you didn't change anything. It should not be an issue. I just mentioned it for a fact.

You can do the momentary short on the remote control end if easier. The terminal block does look like a Chamberlain Liftmaster Opener. With a Sears name on it.

Depending on the hardware revision of your Switchlinc Dimmer. Some would beep if they detected an improper load on them. Can you easily test it with the load disconnected? Since this just started and you had to do a restore to get it to work again. There is a slight possibility the Switchlinc is starting to fail.

ISY99i or ISY994i? What firmware is running on the controller? If you are using an ISY99i the last firmware may not support the module.

It is possible that even though the LED bulbs are rated to be dimmed. They may not play well with the KPLs electronics. In some tests I have combined different LED bulbs with an assortment of dimmer modules and some combinations where not ideal. There is also another rarely mentioned trait of dimmable LED bulbs. Repetitive peak and inrush currents. The brief large repetitive current spikes can cause problems. Many manufacturers will give you an equivalent number. Like I have seen a Lighting Science LED bulb that used 10 watts. Was to be counted as a 80 watt incandescent load when doing the load calculations on a dimmer. If you have the Philips model number. You maybe able to find a specifications sheet or a tested dimmer model number chart. That would give you the number of bulbs that could be used on a dimmer. I have seen almost no automation dimmers tested but you may still get a rough idea of the incandescent equivalent your bulb is rated for.

Ground wires are not needed for Insteon Modules to work. In my old house there is no ground wire in the two wire Romex. Insteon Switches work fine with no grounds. Safety is a different but important difference.

Not all LED Bulbs are made for use on dimmers. If you are using one not rated to be on a dimmer. That could be contributing to your problem.

What revision firmware are you running? That was fixed in the later ISY994i firmware and I believe there is a work around for the last firmware used in the ISY99i.

Can't make a blanket statement that CFLs are all a problem. Some are totally fine while another brand maybe a real power line noise maker or signal absorber. A non dimmable CFL on a dimmer or a control that uses a Triac to switch it On and Off. Can be a real issue.

I just wanted to verify the Sensor Input for the I/OLInc may have been connected to the safety sensor input on the opener. The NO and Common are a dry relay contact and should not be polarity sensitive. The opener and its control pad are polarity sensitive. As some controls put electronic components on the contacts. To do things like turn the light openers Light On and Off. The white LED on the side of the I/OLinc flickers when the opener is running? Does the Sensor LED go On and Off when the magnet gets moved from being close to the sensor?

What firmware version is reported in the Administrative Console in the PLM Info/Status choice in the Tools Tab?

The Garage Door Sensor is a magnetic switch mounted by you on the door and frame correct? If you are using the Garage Door's Openers Jam Sensor. You have the incorrect one and have to use an independent magnetic sensor. There should be four wires from the I/OLinc to the Garage Door Area. Relay NO and Common for the Push Button Input connection on the opener. The Red and White terminal in your above diagram. The Sensor and Ground to is own separate Magnetic Sensor. Mounted on the Garage Door and Door Frame. If the Sensor LED is not going On and Off when the door moves. It maybe out of adjustment. There are diagrams and information in the Garage Door Kits Quick Start Guide. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/74551qs.pdf

Did you possibly connect the door openers jam sensor to the I/OLincs Ground and Sensor input? The magnetic sensor that is part of the garage door kit. Goes to the Sensor and Ground Terminals. The NC and Common to the door openers open closed button terminals.

You should not have any manual or Houselinc created links in any of your modules. Best to start with a Factory Reset of all modules and let the ISY994i do everything. Left over links will eventually cause headaches.

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Best place to ask is their support forums. http://www.simplehomenet.com/forum/index.php If you download and unzip the sample file. The .php file can be opened with a simple text editing program if you don't have the evaluation or full users version of Docklight. The added commands listed in the documentation would also not be understood by the ISY controller as it normally would not have to deal with them. Smartenit also sells it as a development module for your own sothware.