Brian H

Is 28.9C.AB the Insteon ID for the Garage Door I/OLinc?

Firmware programming socket as pointed out. On all the other Insteon Modules it is a five pin header or five position set of pads on the PCB. As there are five connections used for programming Microchip PIC Controllers. Dual Bands frequently have two programming connectors. Main controller and the RF signal controller. I have not traced the six position header on the Switches. So the extra pin maybe NC or common to one of the other five. As five connections are all that is used.

I believe even with Dual Bright turned off. The circuit doesn't drive the sense wire correctly. Check the messages on the Smarthome Forums as Teken pointed out. There maybe some threads on the new Insteon Forums also. http://forum.insteon.com/

I would also say try again. This time power down the PLM and ISY Controller. Then power the PLM back up. Let it stabilize for a short time. Then power up the ISY controller.

No Insteon Dimmers are Leading Edge Phase Cut devices. Pulse-width Modulation is a completely different method of controlling a lights level. Lutron PWM Application Notes. 048360a_PWM_vs_CCR_LED_App_Note.pdf 362219.pdf

I have a soldering iron similar to yours. Has a unplated copper tip. You file or sand it back into shape and then tin it. If you ever have a chance to look in some of the major electronic parts vendors catalogs. They sell CFC free canned air with and with out extremely flammable gas as the main ingredient. Mine has an added bitterant in it to discourage inhalant abuse. I have not seen anyone finding the exact replacement for the Zener diode in the older LampLincs or ApplianceLincs. Thirty volts. The size and wattage is what seems to be in question. The newer Lamplinc HW 4.3 still has 30 volts on the main capacitor. D3 is now a glass body version. Some of them had a physical marking of 30 then below it 15. Not sure if the 15 was a wattage code. I know they measure about 30 volts across a working one.

If your soldering iron has a plated tip. Just wipe it on a damp sponge and lightly tin it. Sanding a plated tip will remove the plating and shorten its life. I would also recommend checking your can of air if you are going to blast the solder. I have seen some that use a flammable gas.

The larger one is most likely C3. Originally a 6.8uf 250 volt. My rough measurements is about 7mm diameter and 10mm tall. The Kemet 10uf 400 volt from the specifications sheet is 10mm diameter and 19mm tall. I have a Rubycon 10uf 400 volt in a order I have placed with MCM Electronics. Specification sheet says 10mm diameter 16mm tall. I will see how it fits. The Serial Daughter Card is not in the C3 area so it can stick up fairly high into the top case if necessary.

A Dual Band module receiving an Insteon RF command. Will send power line messages. A Dual Band module receiving a Insteon power line command. Will send an Insteon RF message. There are a few users here. That have their PLM on an UPS and used a Access Point or other Dual Band Device for sending commands on the power lines. Power line messages received by other Dual Band modules will send an RF message back to the PLM. Only limitation is Insteon RF and other RF signals can be effected by many things. So the PLM has to be in good communications distance to at least one Dual Band module.

Though I have not seen any reports of the Hardware Revision 2 {Hardware 1 was on the older 2412 base PCB and an added Daughter Card} 2443 Access Points going belly up. It has the same Main Board as the 2413S PLM with out the Serial Daughter Card and different firmware. So the power supply components should be the same.

Unfortunately. We have to protect the stupid moves sometimes that happen. Not sure about Canada but here in the USA we have Lawyers that try and get money for a clients stupid moves. My lawn mower actually has a warning in the manual to not lift it up while running. I understand some user picked theirs up and tried to trim their hedges and won money because the manual didn't warn them it may remove some of your fingers. When I was working for Motorola Communications. A police officer told me about a burglar tripping on a hose out side a home they where breaking into and winning a award in court. Because the hose was not properly put away. Even though they where committing a criminal act. My guess is. Better to have an unhappy user where their module stayed Off over something going On and causing damage or harm to someone.

In the early days of Insteon. One of the standard features touted by Smarthome. Was resumes in the state it was in at power restoration. In recent SKUs it seems to be quietly discontinued. Just like one of the main touted features was X10 backwards compatibility. That has also quietly gone by the wayside. I am an early user {late 2005} so almost all of my modules are first or second hardware versions.

One of the Insteon specifications was remember its state at power restoration after a power loss. On, Off or Dim level. Sounds like that may have changed again. If your On/Off module was On and defaulted to Off after a power cycle. No Insteon module defaulted to On if it was Off. Except the short production run. SocketLinc Dimmer. It always came On even if it was Off. I have a majority of my ApplianceLincs and Icon ON/OFF modules that follow the specification and a few from the production runs that always stay OFF.

There is a 27 Ohm 2 watt resistor in series with the AC Line Input to the bridge rectifier feeding the high voltage DC side of the switching supply. That should limit the start up current into the capacitor. When powered down. The switcher should keep running until it discharges the cap and stops running.

I believe this is the only thread with the exact information. The part numbers on the right side of the original post are the Mouser Part Numbers. There is No photos or step by step instructions that I have seen. Check the hardware revision sticker on the back. I know my V1.5 and 1.B have the PCB with all the capacitors on it. My older V1.0 has the older PCB and one of the capacitors and small coil tack soldered to the PCB and a Blue Wire running to the back of the PCB. From the later PCB Silk Screened on the PCB: C3 is the 6.8uF 250V C11 is the 100uf 25V C7 and C13 10uF 35V C8 is the 10uF 16V On the older PCB I believe C13 is the one tack soldered to C7. As I did not see a C13 Screened on the PCB.

I found the manual for your opener. It appears it has some intelligence in the controller. That maybe why a simple closure on the Red and White wires doesn't work correctly. Can the controller do things like turning on the Light or have a Motion Sensor in it? Are the Up and Down Arrows on the controller flashing any Diagnostic Codes?

Thank you for the list of parts you used. Anyone with 2413S with the the older PCB. The two original 10uF 35 V caps. Will be on a reworked to add a coil and the second 10uF cap. That are on the newer PCB. They will have long leads and kind of tacked soldered onto the original PCB pads. With the coil between the + side of the caps and a blue wire to the back of the PCB. Never looked at the back of the PCB but imagine a run cut to add the extra filter parts to the unregulated 12 volt supply. One mine has 10uF 25 volt ones in it. Since the unregulated 12 volts is closer to twenty volts. 25 volt caps is not a large safety margin. The other one has the 35 volt ones in it. Could be a size thing as the 25 volt one is smaller and fit better sticking up off of the PCB. If you where a good neat solderer. You maybe able to change the caps on the older revision PCB. My two Hardware 1.0 have the rework but I can't say exactly where the later PCB was used. I know Hardware 1.5 has the later PCB. I doubt anyone has the version Smartlabs has in the FCC Database photos. It has one 10uF cap on the 12 volt supply. No coil or second cap.

If the vendors I use. Had the high voltage one in stock. I would have changed it.

See my earlier entries to this thread and from BLH on the Smarthome Forums. I replaced all four filter caps in the low voltage side of the power supply with good low ESR caps. The low {~7 volts that drifted as it was On over time} 12 volt unregulated became rock steady again. At around its normal 19.5 volts. The Green Status LED was also now acting correctly. Mine was a hardware 1.5. The earlier hardware versions have one of the two 12 volt filter caps and the small coil added as a rework. Hanging up in the air. Tack soldered to the PCB with a Blue Flywire connected to the back. I have not pulled the PCB on an old one but suspect there maybe a cut run or two to accommodate the rework. The same base board is in the hardware version 2.? 2443 Access Point. I am surprised we have not see more of them with issues.

If the PLM is close to or just over two years old. It could be failing. There are numerous reports of PLMs failing. Mine did at two years and three months old. Just out of warranty.

Did something change recently with the 2441ZTH? Last I read the external probes readings where not sent as a message. Only displayed on the module itself. In this thread the 2441ZTH was modify to use the external probe. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/9152-how-to-monitor-water-temp-via-isy-and-catch-more-fish/

The IR adds a small PCB that plugs into a header on the main board and can be added later if someone wanted to add IR. I did that on my ISY99i.

I replaced the four because Samcon and Fujicon brands are both on the list of "Crap Caps" on the Bad caps forums. I would have done the YIHCON high voltage side cap if I could have found one easily. I kept the new one in service as it had later firmware and if it dies in less than two years Smarhome can replace it. I consider it OK to keep as a spare but not tested enough to say 100% fixed.

Thank you for that information. The newer 2456S3 hardware version 4 and above. Have a snubber network across the relay contacts. It also passes some current through the load when it is Off.

I replaced the four capacitors on the low voltage side of the power supply. With a good quality low ESR type capacitor. I feel it was the two directly on the unregulated +12 volts supply as the voltage was very low and went up and down as it warmed up. The other two where on small linear regulators and probably didn't have to be Low ESR. I temporarily jumped the F1 on the serial daughter card {like the old 2412S} so I could read the unregulated +12 volts and let it run cover On. Voltage was steady for two weeks of tests and I did use it for some HouleLinc tests. Also tested it with DockLight Scripting and BusyRats PLM Test program. Was not stressed with lots of duties. Now in the box with F1 removed as a tentative spare if needed.