Brian H

Too bad Light Show Master is gone. It could do up to 20 commands a second. If you had good communications and could use its set Hop Count to 0. With a PLM.

I have also seen Smarthome and Smartlabs stick their head in the sand and blame everyone else for their problems.

Most likely a electronics failure. If you decide to take the cover off. Look at D3, 30 volt zener. A common part that burns up or gets the board hot enough to unsolder itself.

Are you running any Antivirus or Firewall programs? There are a few that can cause problems. I know on my Zone Alarm Setup. I had to add the IP address of my ISY994i to the Trusted Zone.

One difference when using a dimmable LED bulb on a Insteon or any other brand dimmer switch. LED bulbs electronics when turned On have a brief high current In-Rush current and a repetitive peek current as the AC wave changes polarity. Many LED bulb manufacturers give you the equivalent to an incandescent bulb wattage for calculating the number of bulbs on a dimmer or specify how many you can use on a dimmer. Like my Phillips 12.5 EnduraLED watt 60 watt equivalent LED bulbs indicate use 80 watt as your calculating factor. With a 600 watt dimmer. You can take the wattage of the incandescent bulbs and add them up. So on a 600 watt dimmer with 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I can use 10 bulbs 600/60=10 With my EnduraLED bulbs. I use a math factor of 80 watts. So on a 600 watt dimmer I can use 7 of them. 600/80=7.5. Even though they actually are using 87.5 watts.

What is the firmware revision used by your ISY Controller? Help tab About Choice. Revision number should be there and both the User Interface and Firmware versions should be the same.

I saw a review of the Switch Lighting Bulb in the CPF Forums. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sho ... deo-Review http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sho ... ight-bulbs They are a very recent product release and was delayed for a fairly long time. I had signed up a year or more ago for their email updates on their line of bulbs. I am using the Phillips EnduraLED and Lighting Science Group Definity LED bulbs with Insteon devices. Since I have moved from CFLs to LED bulbs. Most of my Insteon devices where of a relay type. I have tested the dimmable LED bulbs on Insteon dimmer type devices and most worked very well. The 60 watt ones are a bit on the pricey side. $49.99 was what I saw. The Sylvania, Philips, LSG and a few other brands are getting much more reasonable.

The shorting out the LCD display has been reported before. It gets its power through the same two wires used to control it. You can rewire the I/OLinc and solder it to the internal push button inside the display that opens and closes it. Others have purchased a extra remote and soldered the I/OLInc relay output to the button inside the remote.

I know others have used an I/OLinc and a Piezo Sounder. The relay Output set to a monetary closure in a EZIO2x4, could be used to do the same thing. viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9846&hilit=Sounder Few points. If you use the +5 volt supply in the EZIO2x4. It is rated at 20mA. So you would have to consider that in selecting a sounder. To set the relay to momentary and to the time in seconds you wanted. The Simplehomenet Utility maybe needed.

Access Points do not link to anything. The set button on them starts the communications tests with the four tap sequence. Users manual has details on how this test works. If you have not verified proper phase coupling and communications. I suggest you do the tests with the Access Points.

Mine run even with the computer Off. Everything runs from the ISY controller.

Press release from Smartlabs in early 2012. Said three phase now supported. http://www.smarthome.com/pr12-02.html

Where did you see an ISY994i and a 2412S bundled? The 2412S has been discontinued for a long time now. The 2413S Dual Band PLM is the present one being used. Since it does not provide power to the ISY994i an external power supply is used. My ISY994i had a power supply in the kit.

Did you add the replacements as a new device and then use the replace function to remove the old one and add the replacement in its place? I believe that should remove all the old references to the removed device.

The SM120X modules installation manual. Indicates it will work with the smoke detection part of the KN-COSM-IB but not on a CO detection. Unfortunately it does no indicate what the Interconnect signal is including its voltage. The CO120X is for CO detector interfacing.

I thought we where talking about an I/OLinc. I missed the part of your post where you where thinking about a InlineLinc with Sense. With only the Black, White and Red connected and the alarms sounding. Maybe the SM120X is bad. Do you know what the Red Interconnect System wire reads normally?

When you connect the Black to Line, White to Neutral and Red to Interconnect signaling. The smoke alarms start sounding? I found a diagram. Do NOT connect the Blue {Relay Common} to the Line connection. The diagram shows it connected so it can activate a 120 volt device. With an I/OLinc putting the 120 volts on the sensor input will fry the I/OLinc. Just connect the Blue {Relay Common} to the I/OLinc Common and the Orange {NO} to the Sensor Input. If the SM120X is functioning correctly. On a smoke alarm sounding. The Sensor Input should go On triggering the I/OLInc. The Gray wire connection should probably be insulated and not used. Though in some systems it is used for a 9 volt trigger of other devices.

Your meters high input impedance may not be enough to load down the small leakage current through the triac inside the Switchlinc with the capped red load wire. It could be a misleading reading. If it had a higher load on it. It probably would go on and off as you expected.

Magnet and Switch are at the edge of activating and sometimes the switch does not close. Switch itself maybe going intermittent.

It was an optional module purchase for the ISY99i. It is part of the standard ISY994i package. Electric meter interface. Flex power if memory serves me. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... lectricity I don't think you can remove it.

The 2413S PLM is a Dual Band Device. Has a faster memory and processor. Depending on the age of your 2412S. Has more Link Database memory if your old one was 417 Links or less if yours had the >2000 Links. It has 1014 if memory serves me. One thing it does not do is provide power to your ISY controller. Like the 2412S did. An external power supply is needed with a 2413S PLM.

Installed with no problems. Scene Test worked fine with no false failure messages.

Your new home may have signal issues. Have you verified you have at least one Dual Band Device on each phase of the house and that the communications tests in those Dual Band Devices have passed the test? Also the Triggerliinc is an RF device so they also have to be with in receiving range of a Dual Band Device for processing.

I believe they are the revision 1 models and all that fancy remote programming is not in them.

No you are not missing something. As far as I have seen you can not link anything directly to the All On and All Off buttons. I have used a manual linking on my original hardware RemoteLinc to a Insteon Device and it took. Later Remotelinc firmware may have corrected this from happening. That said the ISY controller does not know about this link and will gladly overwrite it if you add something new through My Lighting.