Brian H

Are you asking about how the local paddle of an Insteon Switch, turns the light connected to its load connection On , to different levels depending on time?

Always power up the PLM first and allow it to fully initialize. Then power up the ISY Interface. So it can find the PLM. If the system works for awhile then stops working again. The PLM {well documented here and on the Insteon Forums} has failed. Mine did the same thing. Two years three month old. 2413S. Got worse as it warmed up.

If you can find some white stickers on the modules. They should have a hardware revision number on them. Along with a production date code. You may not find them on older modules. The glue on mine seemed to dry out and the stickers have a tendency to fall off. Knowing that information may help. Like I have some 2456S3 ApplianceLincs. Oldest ones are v1.3, I1 Insteon Protocol and the latest v4.A, I2CS Insteon Protocol. I have the older Insteon Modules Full Users Manuals archived if you need them. The older revision ones seem to be gone and older modules don't always have the features shown in the present manuals.

Smarthome released a updated devices.xml file for Houselinc. I believe the 2413 V2 PLM's ID was one of the updated devices.

Most likely you removed the Serial Daughter Board to access the main board. Double check you didn't get a pin off when you plugged it back into the main broad after the repairs. Also check your work. Some of the solder pads are close to other runs and may have a small solder bridge between them. I believe there where a few posts. That indicated the caps didn't completely fix the issues. Though for most it did.

Should all be on the PCB. My Hardware 1.5 has all the components on the PCB. My Hardware 1.0 was the one with the hanging parts. I was not impressed with the rework. NO insulating sleeve on the long component leads. Just hanging out with exposed bare wires.

I am glad you found the thread. If you have a real early revision. You may find two of the caps and a inductor hanging off of the main board. Seems the original design had only one filter cap and no inductor for the raw 12 volts that is normally closer to 20 volts DC. Later board added the inductor and second capacitor to the PCB.

If the communications between modules is marginal and retries have to be done. Things can slow down with all the time needed for retries. I also agree the RF communications for Dual Band switches in metal boxes. Can be compromised by the electrical box. I have see the internal photos in the FCC Database. Smartlabs has the antennas on the back side of the module. Buried deep into the box.

The original Garage Door Kit. Came with a SPDT reed switch. So you could pick the NO or NC contacts for your setup. Smarthome now uses a cheaper magnetic switch. Though I believe the kit is the same price.

Unfortunately there is confusion. As an Electronic Technician I also think of the resting state with no magnet next to it. Security use. Lists the state of the magnetic switch when it is not in the violated state. Most likely when the magnet is next to the switch. I have seen similar problems over in the X10 forums when trying to decipher a magnetic switch type.

No you do not need the Pro version. When you purchase the Pro upgrade. UDI just enables it on your unit and when it reboots. The Pro options will be available. Did you add the new 2663-222 to the Administrative Console first?

If it is six months old. It is in warranty as Teken posted. If you want to read about the capacitor issue. It is here. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/ I had my two year and three month old 2413S die with failing power supply. Unregulated 12 volts {normally around eighteen or higher volts} was like seven to nine volts. Five volt logic supply regulator went out of regulation and the logic supply was real low. New caps restored it.

I would suspect. That with a brand new SD Card. Everything would be default. Until a recent backup was used to restore it.

The firmware and files are all stored on the SD Card. So when you put in the replacement. Your ISY994i had no firmware or files to run at boot time. Best to ask UDI about using the original ISY994i SD Card if it was not what failed causing your error LED flashing. If the failure is the ISY994i and not the SD Card. I would imagine using the SD Card from the problem controller should work.

Did you follow the proper instructions to replace a SD Card? I know the WIKI information does not say ISY994i but I believe it still is valid. A new SD Card will not function until properly initialized.

You have to format and then add the firmware back to the new SD Card. You can't just plug it in and it works. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card The SD Card from a ISY99i may not work with out doing some things like putting a later version ISY994i firmware on it. As the ISY99i could have no newer than 3.3.10 on it. Calling UDI Support is a good idea. They should be able to step you through getting the new SD Card working or determine if there is a rare ISY994i failure.

I hope you can get the All On fixed without having to abandon your ISY setup, but do understand the possible need to do it. The Delete Modem function will remove the PLMs ID from all the Insteon Modules. Listed on this wiki page. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu&redirect=no#Delete_Modem_.28PLM.29

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Replace_Modem_.28PLM.29

If you erase the Log or Error Log. They are blank. You will get an error if you try and access the empty log. Until the log has had some data added to it. Then you should be able to again view what is in the log.

I would suspect 4.2.27 (RC4) is close to an official release. I have seen that the next major update 5 is in the works.

When you reboot. Like with a firmware update. The current state is blank until the device is queried or reports in if it is an RF device. All the buttons on my Remotelinc show no current state on its buttons. Until each one is activated. If you have Query at restart checked in the configuration tab. The power line devices should show their present state. If you have a Pro version and have Automatic Writes or Automatic Writes to RF Devices disabled. They default to On after a reboot.

You are not going to find any added information on their web site. Only links to the vendor selling the device. That they make custom for the vendor selling them. http://www.minotaurengineering.com/

If they have not fallen off, the glue on them was known to dry out and fall off. There should be a few white sticker on the front of the module. If you have a chance. You may want to post what they say. Also verify the local paddle switches work correctly. There where some with tact switch problems in the older hardware revisions.. The symptom was paddle would click the small tact switch but nothing would change. The hardware revision would be on the white sticker on the front of the Switchlinc. After looking at the Shipping Products list Smartlabs publicly released. The Sub Cat ID number the module maybe different than the ones I gave for the early revision hardware.

If it really is a 2876S Icon On Off Switch. It would have only one green or amber {both where used at different times} Off LED. If it is a 2476D it will have all of the level indicating LEDs. That indicate the level it is turned on. If it was a 2476S. It would have two white LEDs. One for Off and one for On.

That should not be happening The 2476D has an Insteon Catalog Number 0x01, Subcatalog number 0x01 The 2876S has an Insteon Catalog Number 0x02, Subcatalog number 0x0B The Cat and Subcat numbers are read by the ISY controller. As reported by the module during reading its properties. Event Viewer in Level 3 may show what is going on. When adding it.