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Brian H

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Everything posted by Brian H

  1. I have not been in a manufacturing environment in a long time. I vaguely remember some flux as being called No Clean.
  2. Larry, If it is a 1.0 there was rework on the board. As they had to add the second 10uf/35 volt cap and small coil between the caps. So they are hanging off the main board and a fly wire to the back of the board. Would take more skill to replace the caps in it. Though someone has reported doing it in the PLM repair thread. The newer 1.5 has the artwork updated and all the capacitors we are talking about are now on the board and no parts hanging up unto the air.
  3. All five of the caps we changed are through hole electrolytic type. No surface mounts involved. C7 and C13 the two 10uf/35 volt ones in the unregulated 12 volt supply. That I suspect. As mine had a less than 7 volt reading on the unregulated 12 volts that is more like 18 volts when running properly. It is a small switcher and the C7 and C13 where not rated for low ESR and switching supplies. The other three where also changed as a precaution. Six page thread on the 2413S PLM failures here. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/ I have also had two 2443 Hardware 2.? Access Points fail also. They use the same base 2413 PLM board. With no serial daughter board. I replaced the five caps and both are now 100% functional again. Their 12 volts where also around 7 or less volts. Too low for the small 5 volt logic supply regulator to work.
  4. Well if your last 2413S was a hardware 2.0 or above. It should have the updated capacitors in it and hopefully last longer. Only time will tell if the new capacitors corrected the issues.
  5. UDI has developed their own PLM. Sticking point right now. SmartLabs is stalling on providing the promised Insteon power line and RF controller chips.
  6. Well I missed that page in the manual. Thanks for waking me up.
  7. Well the sales page points out a Dual Color Status LED but does not go into much detail. The Users and Quick Start Manuals are also very outdated on the sales site. So they are no help. Your observations sound logical.
  8. New feature Diagnostic Indicator? I wounder if UDI was even told of this update and if the modules new feature will need changes in the ISY994i firmware?
  9. You will find the same differences in RF frequencies for different locations in the world. Like Insteon RF and X10 RF frequencies are different for other locations of the world. That is one thing to remember if trying to use a device from another country with some modules for your country.
  10. The V1.0 hardware needed the jumper wire, coil and capacitors hanging off the PCB. For better power supply operation. The revised art work PCB has the same components now mounted on the PCB with no fly wires or hanging parts. Check the specifications of the 2x 10uf 50 volt caps. I did not see them rated as having a low ESR to be used in a switching power supply. I did get the specification sheet for the cap and will give it a better look. Repair looks good in your photo. Not as easy to repair one with the rework from the factory as the PCB with all the components soldered onto the board.
  11. The Sensor On LED is on the input not logic side. I can pull the Sensor Input low enough to have the LED light but not low enough to trigger the Sensor Input to trigger an On. 0.7 volts is around the unknown zone.
  12. The 2443 Is an Insteon device. Used to couple the two incoming power lines and receive Insteon RF messages from Insteon RF only devices. It was used mostly before Dual Band was added to most present Insteon modules. It is now replaced by the 2992-222 Range Extender. You can leave them installed as they will add tot the Dual Band mesh. I have a pair in use myself. Though almost of my Insteon modules are the original I1 devices and I need the coupling in my system.
  13. I have also seen different hardware revision Insteon Modules have a different default state. 2456S3 ApplianceLincs. Early and latest revisions defaulted to state they where in at power loss. Two hardware revisions 4.1 and 4.15 if memory serves me. Defaulted to Off even if it was On at power loss.
  14. There are clamp on current sensors that can trigger an I/OLInc also. As shown in this thread. http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/11423-how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-washerdryerfurnace/
  15. This one is also a Form C. So it has both a NC and NO contact to choose from. aartech.ca $19.95 CAD https://www.aartech.ca/odc-59b-amseco-garage-door-magnetic-contact-form-c.html
  16. About $18.00 from Smarthome. Though shipping the Canada has been mentioned as expensive when Smarthome ships things. http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html
  17. Brian H replied to andrew77's topic in ISY994
    The 2456D3 has been discontinued for a long time now. 2457D2 Dual Band is the replacement.
  18. Restore PLM. Sends a software reset command to the PLM and reloads only the active links back in to it.
  19. Yes One of the Doorbell Sensing sections of the ELK930 is in series with the bell current. Minimum bell current specified in the data sheet is 900mA. http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/1221.pdf
  20. As long as it is a Dual Band Insteon Module. A few of the older models are still the power line only ones.
  21. Shouldn't the ELK930 be connected to the Sense and Ground Input? You show it on the Ground and 5 volt connections. That will short out the five volt supply on the terminal block.
  22. I have a Filterlinc on my UPS. With my PLM in the unfiltered pass through outlet on the front.
  23. Even with the old KPL physically removed. If it is still in the Administrative Console. You can add the new one and use the replace module function. It will write all the needed changes to the system.
  24. Just remember. Any links the Insteon Hub adds to the modules. Your ISY994i will not know about and could eventually cause link table issues.
  25. Brian H replied to smokegrub's topic in ISY994
    I have the early A19 type Cree Bulbs not the 4 flow ones now being sold. I have had the shells just get loose and fall off. Flicker On and Off then die. Using a Insteon Switchlinc Relay. No dimmers on any of them. The more expensive TW models with CRI of >90 on standard wall switches do the samething. Pulse flicker and then die.

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