
Brian H
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Everything posted by Brian H
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Connecting the I/OLinc relay to a remote. Is one way some have had to control garage door openers. That have electronic type controls. It should work with a gate remote control also. Just set the I/OLincs relay to pulsed output so it does not stay On until commanded Off.
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The I/OLinc's relay is rated at 5 amps at 30 volts. You may want to verify what current the device uses. Also the terminal block on the I/OLinc has fairly small connections and it looks like #18 is the largest that will fit.
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I believe v.27 was the first firmware version I have seen. I would also say you are going to have to cycle the power for the settings to stick. Either the breaker or the Air Gap Switch. Just don't push the Air Gap Switch past its normal resting place or you will factory reset it.
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The sensor you linked to outputs a 0-5 volt analog signal. You would have to use an interface that could use a 0-5 volt DC signal and convert it to what you need. The I/OLinc can not process a 0-5 volt DC signal. You may want to look at this How To Monitor Appliances thread and see if it may have some suggestions. The CT800 Current Sensor provides a dry closure when current is detected. That closure should be able to trigger the Sensor Input on an I/OLinc. http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/1142 ... erfurnace/
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No you can't search for a module not in the network. Do you have access to to or have its six digit ID number. If you have the ID you could then add it. If you have access to it you could read the ID from the label or use Start Linking and push its set button. Tip that many of us use. Have a list of all the IDs and maybe location for future reference. Also though rare. We have seen modules with some test links in them. Many of us automatically do a factory reset on all of our module's as we install them.
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Do you have any communications issues with the Switchlinc to the ISY controller? It is possible it is sending and receiving the RF commands from the Thermostat and the power line signals are not getting back to the ISY controller. Dual band Switchlincs can be effected by things like mounted in a metal electrical box. Some have found even with Dual Band devices. Adding an Access Point corrected things.
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Does the Status LED even flash? Have you verified it is charged well? My thoughts are it is failing but calling the Insteon Gold Support Line may yield added information.
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One thought. If the other SwitchLinc have an older firmware. The LED adjustable brightness may not be supported and 0 makes no difference.
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Quick Start Guide shows the serial port connection to the ISY99i and the Network Connection on the ISY99i http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... tart_Guide The PLM connects between the serial port on the ISY99i and the serial connector on the PLM. The ISY99i is accessed by its network connection. Also the older 2412S supplied power to the ISY99i through its serial connector. The 2413S does not have the power on the serial connection and you also have to use the ISY99i's external power input connector. The ISY99i's firmware had to be frozen at 3.3.10 and all future firmware updates are for the ISY994i series only. So support for new model modules will not be in a ISY99i's firmware. No a 2414U PLC will not work.
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Fanlinc would not work in this application. Has a one amp rating for the fan motor output and 300 watts for the light output.
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Switchers seem to do that. Glad you where able to trace the problem down. Smarthome has a power supply normally sold to folks going from a 2412S to a 2413S that didn't supply power. It is th 1/2 amp one and not the 1 amp one in the ISY994i kits. http://www.smarthome.com/1223PS/Univers ... ply/p.aspx
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An Event Viewer running on level 3 would show the messages and success or failure. Along with the hops left= count. That I suspect is 0.
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Seven of my nine 2456S3 ApplianceLinc modules are v1.3s and I rarely get those error messages you are reporting. Is this every time you change one of their outputs though your ISY console or after the 3:00 AM Query? Maybe once a month for some odd reason, a few of mine will not respond properly to the 3:00 AM Query and at that time there should be no power line issues. I think the firmware may have slight quirks as I found a few if you added an X10 Scene Address in addition to a Primary X10 Address.
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I am glad the cable arrived safely. Do you have the PLM connected to an UPS or on the same circuit as the computing equipment? They can effect power line signals.
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I have never seen any such list of incompatibilities as the combinations would be endless. The Insteon power line signals are getting into the Lutron's Electronics and it sounds like they where not made with power line commands being on the power lines, being a factor. I would imagine they may also be effected by X10 and UPB protocol power line commands. Will look around and see if I can find some type of small filter you could wire into the Lutron's Line connections. Leviton made a nice one but I believe it was discontinued. Lutron does make a filter bit it looks like they are for 600 watts and above. For smaller loads they recommend calling their technical support group. Also extremely expensive. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/ResourceLibrary/360283.pdf
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Yes you will need a C connection. If you can safely do it. Look at the heat control end of the wire and see if there are any extra terminals on the controls and what they are labeled with.
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Is the LED on the PLM look normal? Mine is Green. Another possibility is the PLM has died. We have recently seen reports of them dying with little run time on them.
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To add to what LeeG pointed out. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... .2F_Enable
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The 2443-222 has a relay output and does not dim. It does have the 700 Watt/240 Volt rating. The 100 watt limit is for the 2442-222 dimmer model.
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Your setup is two wire. R/RC and W Heat. Your old thermostat is a Honeywell {I recognize the back plate} and is battery operated only {No C terminal where the Not Used label is}? If you have the Honeywell Model number I can probably verify it was battery only. Most electronic thermostats need the C Common Power wire to run. Do you seen any extra wires in the cable not used right now. As there could be an unused wire you could add to the new thermostat. You will also have to look at the control end and see if there is an unconnected C terminal on the controls. On the control end. Are the wires connected to terminals labeled R and W or T and T? The 2441TH needs the C connection. It is labeled 24 COM in the 2441TH Quick Guide. R/RC would be the R connection and W would be W1 on the 2441TH The 10A fuse does not indicate the controls voltage. Most likely 24 volts AC.
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If the CFL is Off. It should not be a issue. Many times the symptoms are I can turn it On but not Off.
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The sales page for the Smoke Bridge shows five nodes. The developers notes for the Smoke Bridge show all seven. Maybe early units didn't support all of them. Personally that would be no surprise to me. Smartlabs updates firmware and we get big surprises. ISY Firmware Release Notes also indicated that Smoke Bridge issues where addressed at 4.0.2. That could also be a factor in how many nodes where added.
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The kit use to come with this switch. It does both NC and NO. http://www.smarthome.com/7455B/SECO-LAR ... tch/p.aspx
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The magnetic switch is wired to the Sensor Input not to the relays NO or NC contacts. So a different magnetic switch would be the answer.
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IMHO. It could be due to parts availability. A best judgment substitute was made for a part and it was not as good as expected. Smartlabs gives the Developers Group a shipping product list. For a short time they had foot notes on parts substitutions versus revision levels. That quickly disappeared.