Brian H

C7 and C13 are in the unregulated main unregulated 12 volt supply. Normally it runs around 20 volts. So 25 volts still has a safety margin. From what I have seen reported by members here. Different combinations of capacitor values and voltages where in different hardware revisions. My Hardware version 2.1 C7 and C13. Are 100uF/35V Fujicon RK series capacitors.

I imagine some users with the new or some new values depending on hardware version. Could get confused. Do you happen to have the part number of the 100uF/35V one? Folks trying to update the original hardware 1.0 are in for an even bigger surprise. Looks like they originally only used one 10uF/35V and no coil for a Pi filter and it didn't work. So the capacitors and coil are all reworked into the circuit. Both 10uF/35V and coil are hanging in the air above the top side of the PCB and tack soldered to the PCB. Along with a wire to the back of the PCB. I never looked but probably a run cut there also.

Thanks for the clear data. In the v2.1 one I have C13 is also a 100uF/35V capacitor. C7 and C13 are in the switching power supply and should be capacitors designed for that type of use. I believe the ones they used where general purpose versions.

No there are no schematics of the 2413 series PLM modules. That where also used in the hardware version 2 2443 Access Points. There where some in the Developers Manuals for the old power transformer based 2412 series PLM modules. You may want to check your soldering closely. When I did one of my 2443 Access Points. I pulled out a plated through hole that one of the capacitors was soldered in. Basically I had no connection between the top run to the hole and the bottom run. I ended up using a small piece of #30 wire warp wire. To fix my goof.

Has to be a 2413S. As the communications between the ISY994i controller and the PLM is serial. The 2413U is a USB type. You may want to see if a Restore PLM will temporarily fix things. I agree 28 links is way too small.

In the diagnostics tests. How many links are in the PLM? Very few or none is a sign the PLM is going bad. Is the LED on the PLM on at about a normal level? I would suspect a v1.3 1329 maybe starting to fail.

Where you able to use the capacitors listed in the thread or comparable ones?

If the module is Off the LED is Red. In the Beacon test if the module you are looking at is flashing Green it is on the opposite phase. Periodically the module doing the Beacon Test pauses and restarts. The module you are looking at momentarily goes Red as it was Off before the test was started. Then flashes Green again when the test starts again. Another possibility is the Insteon RF signal to the module you are looking at during the test is marginal. The led may act that way. I have a 2443 Access Point that the led stops flashing if I stand in front of it. When the test is run from the Access Point in the other end of the house.

It should. The Range Extender they sell. Is a 2457D2 PCB with out the dimmer components. In a case with no external output access. Some here say get a 2457D2 even if you only need Range Extending. Make sense as if you ever need an extra 2457D2 you have it and the Range Extender can't do any load control.

It may work but dimming a LED not made to be dimmed. Will shorten its life and maybe do damage to the dimmer itself.

From your tests. It does appear it has failed. 6-8 weeks is an unbelievably short time for a new unit to just fail. 2.1 was supposed to be the fixed power supply version. Oh well! I don't have much faith in Smartlabs's or Smarthome's Engineers and QC department to get things right anymore. I bought a few 2635-222R refurbished On/Off modules. They claim that they are tested 100%. One had no screws in the PCB and it was floating loose in the case. Another one the Green part of the LED does not work. Only the Red and unused Blue parts worked.

You did unplug the PLM and power down the ISY Interface. Then plug in the PLM and wait for it to totally initialize. Then power up the ISY Interface. The ISY Interface only checks for a PLM at boot up or reboot.

The present manual was published 09/18/2015. The manual I linked you to on the Smarthome Forums. Was an earlier one that was for modules before the flow chart was in its firmware. Yours didn't have the flow chart in its firmware. As far as I could tell from your symptoms. Neither do mine have the flow chart in their firmware. So they will never go into the second slow flashing green state. If you have a moment. Maybe you can post the firmware version reported in the Administrative Console. The data on the white sticker on the back would also allow others to maybe chime in with their versions findings.

Unfortunately some Insteon modules get out of production with test links in them. So factory resetting all new modules is done by many of us routinely. I am still trying to figure out. How you got a brand new 2457D2 Lamplinc that did not follow the flow chart.

I also saw a post that they did reverse their position.

Phillips recently changed the ability of third party devices working with HUE. Not sure if this will impact what is being done by the members here. http://www.extremetech.com/electronics/219450-philips-updates-hue-introduces-lightbulb-drm

I have recently seen reports of the modified sine wave UPS units. Causing big issues with the newer computers with Active Power Factor Correction power supplies. Like instantly shutting down when going into battery backup on a power loss.

If the 200mA supply was close to its rating. There is a possibility it momentarily dropped out as the UPS switched to battery. The UPS may have a stepped modified sine wave output also. That could have played into the observations you had.

Over the last few weeks. I have received a few exclusive for email registered customer sales offers. Yesterday my luck was not too good. Ordered a few of the refurbished On/Off module at $39.99 and the Alert Module. Last night I found a limited time 20% off email for two or more of the new On Off Modules. 20% off the 49.99 new price is $39.992 rounded down to $39.99. Of course the order was processed and on its way. When I read the email offer. Refurbished don't have the I am not happy 30 day return privilege. Just a 30 day DOA exchange warranty.

I suspect the old 300mA minimum current specification. Is low for a ISY994i. Especially if it has any added hardware. Like the Z-Wave board. My ISY994i and the one sold by Smarthome as an option when using a 2413S. Is 100-240 VAC 50/60 Cycles Input. 5 Volts 1 Amp output.

Maybe someday Smartlabs will release the Insteon Firmware UDI needs to make their own PLM. As I understand that is the hold up right now.

I don't believe a KPL dimmer can be used to replace a KPL relay. Using the replace with choice. One is an On Off device the other one dims. The replacement has to be close enough hardware wise for the replace with to show. I was going to use one of the new 2635-222 On Off modules in place of an old 2456S3 ApplianceLinc. The replace option was not available. As the new one was not close enough feature wise.

I didn't have any of the 2476ST models but do remember them also being reported as having no Air Gap switches. As do my early 2476S and I believe also the old Icon models.

If you had any of the old hardware 2476S Switchlincs. They do not have the Air Gap Switch. Pulling out the set button will just break it off. They also have a completely different Factory Reset procedure. Later hardware revision 2476S module did have the Air Gap Switch.

Yes C1 was the 100uF/6.3V one you where trying to find a replacement for. I temporarily jumped F1s pads so I could measure the unregulated 12 volts on one I was baking in after the capacitor changes. As F1 is the unregulated 12 volt feed to the serial port connector. So far I have not had large globs of glue on the LED. On mine I was able to gently pry it free from the side of the case and remove the PCB. Then gently cut off the glue blob on the LED off. Now if anyone has a better way to remove the glue. I would also like some tips. I have a 2456S3 recent hardware ApplianceLinc with a giant blob of glue holding the LED and covering a possibly bad 30 volt zener diode or shorted cap in the 30 volt supply.