Brian H

If the PLM is less than two years old. Call the Insteon Customer Support Line and give them the symptoms. They will replace it if they determine it has failed. It is most likely a hardware failure and nothing to do with your ISY. I have seen users of the Smarthome HouseLinc program also reporting failures on the Smarthome Forums.

Thanks for the updated information. Though quite a strange set of circumstances.

In the Tools Tab Diagnostics Choice PLM Info/Status. Does it show connected and give the firmware version in the PLM? Since the LED is completely Off and communications between modules and the PLM seem to be not working. There is a good chance the PLM may have failed. We have seen messages indicating PLM failures recently.

Is the LED on the PLM On? You may want to try a power cycle. Unplug the PLM and power from the ISY. Wait maybe thirty seconds and then power up the PLM. Wait until the PLM finishes initializing. Then power your ISY controller back up and let it initialize. What model PLM do you have. Older 2412S or Dual Band 2413S?

LeeG; If the latest shipping products data we Developer Group members got is correct. Smartlabs changed the Sub Cat ID for the 2342-222 8 Scene, 2342-232 4 Scene and 2342-242 RemotrLinc2s and I don't see those latest Sub Cat IDs in the drop down list. Would that contribute to the problems? I believe the Sub Cats where changed. As I now see International RF frequency one also listed with their own unique Sub Cat IDs.

Symptoms indicate both of you have SwitchLincs that have failed. Maybe the power supply area. Multiple symptoms is commonly the power supply area. Why in such a such a short time. Hard to say. I suspect a part in them is failing. Could be a bad run of parts. Engineer didn't leave a safety margin when designing them. Chinese manufacturer used counterfeit parts and they looked authentic. I had a 2456S3 ApplianceLinc fail in seven months. Smarthome exchanged it with no problems and even paid shipping. My thoughts are they knew that production run had issues but would never admit it.

Well they do have a two year warranty. So if they failed Smarthome should replace them.

Unless the power feeding them is poor. Flickering and lower than normal light outputs. Would indicate they are failing.

The new Dual Band InLineLinc Relay does not have any Sense Inputs like the older ones. I believe the Micro Modules do have a pair of Sense Inputs.

Panda88; The I/OLinc has an internal pull up on the Sensor Input to 5 volts. Did you have to add an extra one externally to have it work correctly? What value resistor did you use?

Did you just push the Air Gap Switch back to its normal position or all the way in to do a factory reset? I they are an older revision SwitchLinc relay with no Air Gap Switch there is a different factor reset. Factory reset will clear everything out and you would have to then restore them. If you have the Full Users manuals for the SwitchLincs and KPL. They describe how to remove the X10 addresses and not do a factory reset

If you power cycle with the air gap switch on the set button. When you push it back in. Don't go past the normal operating position. Push all the way in you do a Factory Reset.

The 994i is the replacement for the 99i. The firmware for the 99i had to be frozen at 3.3.10 due to memory space. So latest Insteon modules needing a later firmware. Will not work with a 99i. There is an upgrade offer on the UDI Sales web page near the bottom of the page. http://www.universal-devices.com/sales/products/

I used that procedure to replace the original small one in my ISY99i. Later firmware supported bigger ones and I chose to change it. Mine was early enough to need case removal.

If you have to get an adapter. I would go for a five volt regulated type. Some unregulated types only have the rated voltage output at the rated current. A lower current load would give a higher voltage. If you have the six volt one. The series diode will lower it to closer to five volts as LeeG mentioned.

If you don't have the Full Users Manual it is here: http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2334-2xx.pdf

If the inverter is not a Pure Sinewave output and is a steped or modified Sinewave output. You may have timing issues or strange operations from power line garbage from the inverter. I will also be interested in your findings.

There are Upgrades listed on the bottom of the UDI Sales Page. http://www.universal-devices.com/sales/products/

The ISY99i is discontinued and is replaced by the ISY994i. It has many added features. The older ISY99i can't use the latest firmware as it ran out of programming memory space. So all new recently released Insteon modules can't be supported by the 3.3.10 firmware. That is the last version for the ISY99i. The ISY99i and its replacement ISY994i use a external DC power supply. So that would probably not be a big problem. Just get a supply for the local power. The big problem is the PLM used to interface the ISY994i to the power lines. It only runs on 120 volts 60 cycles. The converter maybe able to step the 220 volts down to 120 volts but the power line frequency would still be wrong. Also if the converter was a step down transformer type. It is very likely the power line signals would not pass through it. Other converters with a diode or big resistor in it. Have a good chance of damaging the PLM.

I always down load the full users manuals from the links on the sales pages or use the web address on Insteon.com http://www.insteon.com/support.html Wow what a long way to Factory Reset a 2457D2 LampLinc. The older 2456D3 was real easy. Unplug for 10 or more seconds. Hold Set Button and plug back in. While holding the Set button for at least 3 or more seconds. Then release Set Button and it would do its thing.

We have seen reports of some Insteon Modules getting out of the factory with test addresses in them that where not cleared out. Before shipping. Not too common and having two with the same test addresses doesn't sound too possible. Many long time Insteon users. Do an automatic Factory Reset on all new modules before using them.

Besides the possible EOL Resistor. There is probably a sensing current or voltage on the switch from the security system. That can mess up the 2483 that expects a dry contact switch and has its own sensing current. Separate switch maybe needed. One for the security system and another one for the 2483.

Is there a different number of the LED bulbs between the ones that work and not work? I have seen some manufacturers tested dimmer switch charts. Show a different minimum number of bulbs needed to work between different dimmer models.

I have found that some combination of dimmable LED bulbs and dimmers don't play well together. You may want to test a different LED bulb and see if it worked better. Many LED bulb manufacturers will have a list of tested dimmers for their bulbs. Though almost never are any automation devices tested. Off hand do you have the model and manufacturer of the LED Bulbs in question? I have tested some brands of dimmable LED bulbs with real old 2476D Switchlinc Dimmers. Most worked fine. Some pulsed at 100% or one dim level below 100%.

This may give you some information. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... r_ISY-994i