Brian H

I don't think the main boards firmware is to different between the USB and Serial Versions. It will report it has the USB Subcategory ID and not the Serial Port ID. The ISY994i may balk at the different ID. You may want to try it and see if it works. Smarthome is still showing 04/22/2016 as the expected in stock date. As it is on back order right now. One of the Amazon vendors is showing 04/05/2016 but there is no guarantee it will be the latest firmware and hardware.

There is no capacitor in C32's position on my hardware 1.5 or my hardware 1.B. The gunk around the LED is normal for many Insteon products. Seems the assembler with the glue applicator used to hold the LED in place likes to over fill the space. The white residue near the daughter board connector. Is most likely poorly cleaned PCB after soldering. Has been seen in many different Insteon Modules. My C3, C11, C7, C13 and C8 didn't show any signs of failures in mine. Though a capacitance meter showed they where not in specification anymore. C7 and C13 in one of my Version 2 2443 Access Points that uses the same base board with no daughter board and a different firmware. Showed slightly bulge tops or swollen rubber seals on the bottom.

If you don't have a solder sucker to clean out the holes. Many times heating the pad and then using a sewing needle to clear the hole works.

The only thing to watch with Amazon. Is if it is sold and shipped by Amazon or one of their Amazon Stores and fulfilled by Amazon. I am not sure if their Amazon Stores always have the latest versions.

Must be the 2413S serial version. As the signal cable between the PLM and the ISY994i is serial protocol. The 2413U is a USB type interface. My Hardware V1.5 Date Code 1122. Lasted about a day after letting it rest with no power. Dell is showing 3-5 day shipping normally for the 2413S. I suspect they have it shipped from Smarthome. I bought a 2413S from Amazon and it was the latest hardware. As they where waiting for more stock when I ordered it. Was $66.95 while Smarthome was $79.99 I rebuilt my 2413S V1.5 using the information in this thread. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/

OLD PLM. Date Code:1051 week 51 of 2010. V1.4 is one of the ones with problem power supplies. Above V2.0 is supposed to have the improved power supply parts in it. The LED going out and the ISY994i going into safe mode. Is a common indication the power supply has failed. Since there is a Back Order for the 2413S PLM. It may take awhile to get a new one. Last time I looked Smarthome indicated 04/22/2016 is expected new stock date. Amazon dealers also have finally run out of them. Amazon expects 03/29/2016. So Smarthome may not have updated their site yet.

The 2413S has NO power on the serial port RJ45 connector. Only the older 2412S had unregulated 12 volts on the serial connector. When the 2413S power supply is going bad. One of the indications is a dim or Green Led out. Sometimes a power cycle of the PLM will give it enough to restart for a short time. Another indication is the Link Database is empty. The ISY controller checks for a PLM connected on a soft or power cycle reboot. Your PLM may have failed and found when you did the soft reboot.

You can use a Mamac CT-800 current sensor. Over one if the incoming AC Power Lines to sense when it is on or off. It has a dry contact relay in it and can trigger an I/OLinc Sensor Input. It can sense from .5 Amp to 200 Amp AC current. There is also a CT-805 that has a snap over wire feature so you don't have to disconnect any wiring. I picked up a CT-800 on Ebay for $12.50 with shipping. Tutorial from Cocoontech. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58 My old dryer has a three wire plug. Line-Line-Neutral. Motor is 120 volts and a separate Ground wire is on the frame to a cold water pipe.

I doubt the inductor is damaged. The two capacitors in the Pi filter are the biggest problem. Fujucon is not the most well known brand of capacitor. C2D is on the output of a small 5 volt linear regulator. So it does not have to be a low ESR. Just a good brand and probably a 105C temperature rating. Also in a fairly open area so a slightly fatter or longer one may fit. I believe the lead spacing on it was 1.5mm when I measured it.

C3 OK C11 OK C7,C13 OK C8 Is there maybe a typo. UTS1C100MDD is not a valid number. They do have the UST1C100MDD. It has a 1.5mm lead spacing. The 1TE suffix has a 5mm lead spacing. Mine are 1.5mm C2D that part number is marked as a Non Stocked Item 14 weeks lead time.

I did a web search for 2842-292 As other have pointed out Retail Version. Amazon, Home Depot and many other carry the 2842-292 stock number.

The original garage door kit from Smarthome did have the NC/NO magnetic switch in it. That they later changed to a lower cost one. Here is what use to be in the kit. http://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html As pointed out. Other vendors may also have such switches.

Thank you for the information I will have to add the fuses value a dn part number to my notes.

This is from a V1.1 Date Code 1044 SynchroLinc. I have no idea if anything is changed in the present units. If it is completely dead. There is a 5mmx20mm fuse with leads. Covered In shrink tube. Connected in series from the AC Line Input prong to the PCB AC Line Input Pad. I can't read its value. As it is covered with shrink tubing. The actual load current is read on the Neutral feed to the outlet socket. White wire from the Neutral connection on the input side of the PCB to a fairly heavy PCB run near the output. Then a heavy shunt is soldered to the PCB where the input white jumper wire is. On the other side of the shunt is another heavy PCB run, To a short white wire jumper connected to the output socket.

The CT-800 mentioned in this how to monitor an appliance should trigger an IOLinc if you want to go that route. There is also a version of the sensor that has a snap opening so you don't have to remove a wire to slip it over. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58

Sorry if I confused things by calling out the C13 silkscreen number for an older artwork PCB. Where it is just hanging off the board. In mine the bare leads are awful long. If I did one. I would use some insulating tubing on mine to make me feel better. My old electronic repair experiences showing up.

I tried this and it worked. If you can't find an easier way. You can manually link it to a module in the Administrative Console. Then do a Show Device Links Table for the module you linked it to. The RemoteLincs ID will show as a mismatch. Then it would be best to do a manual unlink from the module you added it to. So its ID is removed from the module. If you don't want to mess with a module in use now and have a unused module. You could also add the unused test module to the Administrative Console. Then manually link the test module to the RemoteLinc Then do the Show Device Links Table. To see the ID. Then just remove the added test module from the Administrative Console and Factory Reset both the test module and Remotelinc. I did the same thing with a Smarthome "X10SC503" controller that was a short lived module. Basically a 2430 ControLinc II with the Insteon Labels removed and sold for X10 use. Though the firmware was never changed. So it was a 2430 in disguise.

C13 is the 10uF/35 volt that is not silk screened on the PCB as it was a engineering change. To go from a simple single filter capacitor on the +12 volt supply to a Pi filter on the +12 volt supply. C13 and the coil hanging off the PCB where added to the PCB layout on a later revision. There should also be a PCB run cut {maybe under a part and not easily seen} so the added components are now part of the +12 volt supply. The red fly wire is the output of the Pi network and connected to where the +12 volts is supplying power to the unit.

The two 10uF/35 Volt (C7 and C13) should be a low ESR designed to be used on a switching power supply. For best results.

The 2413S PLM in you photos. Looks like a Hardware Revision 1.0 where the PCB was originally made with no Pi filter just one capacitor. In the unregulated 12 volt supply. That was updated to add the extra cap and coil. For the Pi type filter. I have two of them but have not tried rebuilding them yet. I know a forum member was going to do one but I don't know if they did it yet. The capacitors should be the same values as found on the later Rev. 1.5 and above models. One of mine had 10uF/25V one for C7 and C13 but the 35V is better and in most of them anyway.

It is Dual Band even if the box doesn't specifically say it is. The sales page shows both Insteon RF and Power Line signal specifications. If you have not done it yet. Download the full users manuals from the sales page manual links. It will explain how to do the Beacon {communications} tests between Dual Band Modules when installed and other things like a Factory Reset if you ever have to do it.

Though the Start Linking choice in the Link Management Tab, can be used. I found the Add New Insteon Device choice to work better. Using the Auto Discover method. Inputting the modules six digit ID and giving it a useful name. Worked better.

If you are using Windows 10 64 Bit version. I have seen an independent X10 software programmer. Report some of his programs started acting strange with 64 bit and the last few updates. Something about being over protective of some folders.

The PLM only uses three signals. Some of the other pins are TTL level send and receive. So you may have to do a custom pin out as there are no RS232 hand shake signals. Only Send, Receive and common. The Quick Guide in the 2413S box gives the pin outs. The Insteon Modem Developers Guide also gives the pin outs but is not up to date. The schematics are still for the older single band 2412S. Pin 2 on the Serial Daughter Board RJ45 connector is no longer unregulated +12 volts. The fuse is not on the board. The EEPROM Link Database chip is now a 24FC64. The main PCB is the old 2412 power transformer model not the completely different switching power supply with RF main board in the 2413.

PLM Developers Guide: Pages 26-27 are X10 related. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/2413dev-042007-en.pdf http://cache.insteon.com/developer/developer-guide-022009-en.pdf