Brian H

That should not be happening The 2476D has an Insteon Catalog Number 0x01, Subcatalog number 0x01 The 2876S has an Insteon Catalog Number 0x02, Subcatalog number 0x0B The Cat and Subcat numbers are read by the ISY controller. As reported by the module during reading its properties. Event Viewer in Level 3 may show what is going on. When adding it.

No. The local paddle always controls the load connected to it. Along with sending Insteon messages to devices linked to it. I believe the double tap will turn it 100% On, even if you have a local On level set. While a single tap would turn it On at the Local level it is set to.

The Developer Documentation and Rest API was recently released by Smartlabs. http://www.insteon.com/developer/#devdocs The White Papers are here. http://www.insteon.com/technology/#documentation

Any new electronic devices that maybe use a 915MHz RF signal? Have you done the built in communications tests, from your Dual Band devices, to see if any are no longer communicating? I had a hardware version 2.5 2443 Access Point go stupid. Until I did a power cycle reset. How old is the 2413S PLM you are using?

If they are in a Scene in the ISY994i controller. Have you run the Scene test from the Tools Tab. Diagnostics, Scene test. You did use the ISY controller to link all the modules and not a manual set button linking between them?

You can NOT put a dimmer designed for 120 volts on the low voltage output of a transformer. It will NOT work! You have to use the dimmer on the AC input of the transformer and the transformer has to be rated to be run on a dimmer.

The users manual must have a misprint in it. Page 4 actually says it has a unique Insteon ID number.

On the bottom row of terminals. I believe I see a set of connections marked Line Cord In. If you connect to the receptacles. There is a good chance you will back feed the AC into the line cord presently connected to the transformer. Maybe you can give more information. Are the outlets you want to wire to. Part of the transformer assembly or where the transformer assembly is plugged into? The original dimmer you mentioned. Did it wire into the transformer assembly or an outlet where it was plugged into?

You are just shoving the twisted wires into the receptacles? You should determine the proper terminal screws on the transformer and make reliable connections.

2470D Manual attached. 2470D.pdf

Well I searched for the 2470D manual. Even in the discontinued manuals area. I could not find it. A few web sites showed it as discontinued and from the description. It sounds like a dimmer with no automation properties at all. I could not see any description of a trigger input for a multi-switch installation. I found the manual in my archives. It is a standalone Switchlinc with no automation features. It has ramp rate and on level features. Set with the Set Button/Air Gap switch.

Your description. Sounds like the old Switchlinc X10 receive only devices. In that case they would send no power line signals to control any other devices. Model number as Stu mentioned would be needed to answer your question.

The 8015 didn't work correctly with the I/OLinc if you connected it to the 1/8" sensor interface jack. As it was incorrectly wired to work with it. It was originally made for an earlier Smarthome device. If you cut off the 1/8" plug and wired the cable to the terminal block. It could work. I also found if used on AC over a few volts. It violated the reverse voltage specification for the Optocoupler in it. That could be why the kit had low ratings. It didn't work correctly.

Yes I also remember both the Low Voltage and Light Sensor Kits. The Light Sensor Kit used the Smarthome 8013 http://www.smarthome.com/light-probelinc-led-and-light-detector-probe.html The Low Voltage Kit used the 8015 http://www.smarthome.com/digital-low-voltage-probelinc-low-voltage-power-detector-probe.html I know the 8015 was made for an older Smarthome Device and never worked correctly as the 1/8" stereo connector was not wired correctly for the jack on the I/OLinc. I reversed engineered the connections and did have an 8015 work OK on an I/OLinc. I would guess the 8013 also had the reversed signals on its 1/8" jack.

The Small Users Manual. Shows how it connects to the I/OLinc. http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/71941.pdf

Have you tried a different cable between the PLM and the ISY99i? You may want to open a support ticket with UDI. If you followed the wiki and still get the safe mode. There is a small chance the power surge that took out the PLM. Also damaged the serial port in the ISY99i.

Do you have the Pro version? If you do. You can turn off automatic writes to Battery Devices. Then do each one individually. If needed some of mine with no updates don't have to be woken up. After you Restore The Modem.

Old Developers Notes but gives an idea of what the options are. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/2423A5dev-112010-en.pdf I don't remember if the Full Users Manual give any information on the options. When using the ISY controller the manual button information in the manual is not needed. http://cache.insteon.com/documentation/2423A5-en.pdf

If less than two years old. As pointed out you are with in the two year warranty and it should be covered by Smarthome.

After closing the UI and then going back into the UI. Mine is Greyed out and still disabled, but if you click on it it will be enabled again. It is also greyed out in the File drop down menu. The only time It automatically gets enabled on mine. Is if you reboot the ISY994i or during a firmware update.

If it is a 2413S and over two years old. It maybe on the way out. As they have a reputation of failures. When mine went bad. Power cycling it started it working again for a few days. So keep an eye on it for odd behavior.

I doubt it is a clone. The Cree is their new 4Flow design and they always manufacturer their own products. Notice the air vents on the Cree.

Sounds like the capacitor was poorly filtering the power supply and when you had to start back up. The supply never was able to get enough filtering on a cold start. For a high enough or smooth enough voltage source.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/

You may want to look at the CREE web page for the bulbs. The Documentation tab has four files that can be downloaded. http://creebulb.com/products/standard-a-type/connected-60-watt-replacement-soft-white-led-bulb The page indicates they should be available shortly. So there may not be any users feedback yet.