Brian H

Network Module is a firmware purchase. You can purchase it through Purchase Modules Tab in the Administrative Console. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-994i_Series_INSTEON:Networking It is part of the Portal purchase. So it can be either purchased alone or be part of the Portal if you decide to go that route.

I found with my new PLM making changes to original RemoteLincs didn't work if they where close enough to the PLM for RF access. I ended up making changes with the remote at the other end of the house. So it had to be accessed by a different Dual Band device through the power line to the PLM. You may want to try making updates with the remote in question far away from the PLM itself.

The present hardware revision {>2.0} 2413S PLM is supposed to have corrections in them. Not enough time since the changes to see if they will go past the slightly over two year mark. If you do the caps in a new unit at purchase. You will void any warranty support from Smarthome or Smartlabs. You will also find that the 10uf/35V C7 and C13 maybe100uf/35V. My V2.1 has the larger capacitors. My hardware 2.1 still has the same brand capacitors in C7 and C13 positions. What the very latest has may still be different again.

Thank you for posting the ESR values. Since C7 and C13 are both in the switching power supply output. Running at 200 kHz. ESR is important. If you had measured the 12 volt supply that normally is around 18 volts. I have seen it as low as 7 volts and not enough to work with the 5 volt logic regulator.

The first RF Insteon device was the 2442 Signlinc RF phase bridge and did not use the present RF frequency of 915 MHz. It was 904 MHz. There where no battery devices in the beginning of Insteon sales.

Here is the link to the UDI sales page. https://www.universal-devices.com/sales/ The Upgrade ISY994i are on the page as already pointed out.

I have had Amazon orders shipped from more than one warehouse. To possible have a few boxes. If they all came from the same shipping warehouse. What a plain waste of resources.

Smarthome use to tell users that more than one dimmer next to each other. Had to have their maximum load rating lowered by 200 watts. If separated by a relay type Insteon switch like the 2477S. The maximum load rating reduction was not needed. How hot the cover gets depends on what size or type loads you are dimming and maybe if the 2477S is between the two dimmer type modules. Smarthome did indicate a fairly high temperature value a fully loaded dimmer could reach in the past. So you maybe with in the normal expected temperature. Even though it maybe what you and I think of as too hot. I am an Electronic Technician and I do not like anything getting too hot.

2. When you replaced the PLM. The new PLM ID links are written into the Insteon modules in the system. Battery operated Insteon modules have to be woken up before they can be written to. Probably the motion sensor was never updated with the new PLM ID links. As it was in the battery saving state. Disabled in the Administrative Console should not have stopped the Motion Sensor from still sending motion detection signals and it didn't get the reply back from the new PLM. Flashing the LED error indication.

You need the Dashboard, from the link provide. It is a separate program from the Administrative Console. The settings are not in the Administrative Console only the Dashboard.

The settings are in the ISY Dashboard for the firmware version you have. Not the Administrative Console. The wrench Icon on the top right. Network settings.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19331-my-plm-died-and-i-bought-a-new-one-what-should-i-do-next/?hl=%2Breplace+%2Bplm http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Restore_Modem_.28PLM.29

Same base 2413 PLM board with just a different interface daughter board.

The 2413S PLM has a bad reputation of failing shortly after two years of use. The LED out is one indication the power supply has failed. Another common indication is it lost the contents in its Link Database. If you power it off and wait for awhile and it again temporarily works when powered up. Another indication it has failed. You may want to look at this very long thread on this failure and repairs if you are handy electronically. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/ The latest hardware versions are supposed to have the power supply problems addressed. Only a long term use will actually determine if it was corrected.

I am glad it is back to working. May have had a Link Database problem.

If you are talking about a Insteon Module that is plugged into an outlet. The model of the module would help. Some of the new models can also act as a controller and show up in Red in the Administrative Console. My 2635-222 On/Off modules can also be linked as a controller to other modules. When their local On or Off buttons are used. So they are shown in Red in the Administrative Console. Even not being ever linked to anything as a Controller in my setup. The 2457D2 Lamp Module can also be a controller. So will be showing as a Red entry.

When you hold the button. Does the Admin Console show the changes? In tools. You may want to show the device link tables for the RL2440 {remember to wake it up} and then use the compare to see if they match what they should be.

The updated 2413S PLM has not been in use for just over two years yet. That is when they typically failed. So longevity is still to be determined.

Thank you very much for the tutorial. The tutorial will be a very big help to many users.

Your EZRain is built on a 2412S PLM Base Unit with their custom daughter board. Replacing the normal serial daughter board. When first booted up. The daughter board is supposed to set the PLM to identify as the EZRains Category and Sub Category. From the normal PLM's Category and Sub Category. It appears yours is reporting it is a 2412S PLM and not an EZRain. You may want to try a factory reset and see if the daughter board will again set the base PLM to identify as an EZRain. Unplug for at least ten seconds. Then while holding the Set Button plug it back in and hold the set button for at least ten seconds before releasing it. That will also wipe clean any settings you have in it. My thoughts are it has a hardware failure as it is built on the older 2412S PLM Base Unit. That was discontinued years ago.

My last PLM is not that recent so things maybe even changed in the most latest ones. Hardware 2.1, Firmware 9E, 2413S PLM. C3 6.8Uf/250V, C11 100uF/25V and C8 10uF/16V. Same as hardware 1 models. C7 and C13. Now 100uF/35V Fujicon RK series capacitor. Fujicon RK specifications sheet says General Purpose, 105C Wide Temperature.

A few module may only be Factory Reset. Through the set button flow chart in the full users manuals.

Be extremely careful by doing this. Using a dimmer on a wall wart that is not specified for use with a dimmer. Is not safe to do. It can result in poor performance or a short life of the wall wart and possibly the dimmer. Possible release of smoke and flames after being On for a period of time. Makes power line noise when On and stops any Off commands from working. Until you are very confident the setup will work. Observe it for strange noises, electronic smells and overheating of the wall wart. I have seen users report melted or short lives with wall warts. When on a dimmer even ones where they where always set to 100% On. A different combination of parts. Like an OutletLinc Dimmer in place of the LampLinc. A smaller wall wart for the one you are using now. Could get you a completely different way the setup works. Than what you tested with.

Thank you for the tip. Until now I did not known the ~ thing.

I don't believe you can hide it. As it is part of the modules features. Are you only using the fan output on the FanLinc and don't want the lamp output showing in the Administrative Console?