Brian H

Unfortunately. We have to protect the stupid moves sometimes that happen. Not sure about Canada but here in the USA we have Lawyers that try and get money for a clients stupid moves. My lawn mower actually has a warning in the manual to not lift it up while running. I understand some user picked theirs up and tried to trim their hedges and won money because the manual didn't warn them it may remove some of your fingers. When I was working for Motorola Communications. A police officer told me about a burglar tripping on a hose out side a home they where breaking into and winning a award in court. Because the hose was not properly put away. Even though they where committing a criminal act. My guess is. Better to have an unhappy user where their module stayed Off over something going On and causing damage or harm to someone.

In the early days of Insteon. One of the standard features touted by Smarthome. Was resumes in the state it was in at power restoration. In recent SKUs it seems to be quietly discontinued. Just like one of the main touted features was X10 backwards compatibility. That has also quietly gone by the wayside. I am an early user {late 2005} so almost all of my modules are first or second hardware versions.

One of the Insteon specifications was remember its state at power restoration after a power loss. On, Off or Dim level. Sounds like that may have changed again. If your On/Off module was On and defaulted to Off after a power cycle. No Insteon module defaulted to On if it was Off. Except the short production run. SocketLinc Dimmer. It always came On even if it was Off. I have a majority of my ApplianceLincs and Icon ON/OFF modules that follow the specification and a few from the production runs that always stay OFF.

I found the manual for your opener. It appears it has some intelligence in the controller. That maybe why a simple closure on the Red and White wires doesn't work correctly. Can the controller do things like turning on the Light or have a Motion Sensor in it? Are the Up and Down Arrows on the controller flashing any Diagnostic Codes?

If the vendors I use. Had the high voltage one in stock. I would have changed it.

See my earlier entries to this thread and from BLH on the Smarthome Forums. I replaced all four filter caps in the low voltage side of the power supply with good low ESR caps. The low {~7 volts that drifted as it was On over time} 12 volt unregulated became rock steady again. At around its normal 19.5 volts. The Green Status LED was also now acting correctly. Mine was a hardware 1.5. The earlier hardware versions have one of the two 12 volt filter caps and the small coil added as a rework. Hanging up in the air. Tack soldered to the PCB with a Blue Flywire connected to the back. I have not pulled the PCB on an old one but suspect there maybe a cut run or two to accommodate the rework. The same base board is in the hardware version 2.? 2443 Access Point. I am surprised we have not see more of them with issues.

If the PLM is close to or just over two years old. It could be failing. There are numerous reports of PLMs failing. Mine did at two years and three months old. Just out of warranty.

Did something change recently with the 2441ZTH? Last I read the external probes readings where not sent as a message. Only displayed on the module itself. In this thread the 2441ZTH was modify to use the external probe. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/9152-how-to-monitor-water-temp-via-isy-and-catch-more-fish/

The IR adds a small PCB that plugs into a header on the main board and can be added later if someone wanted to add IR. I did that on my ISY99i.

I replaced the four because Samcon and Fujicon brands are both on the list of "Crap Caps" on the Bad caps forums. I would have done the YIHCON high voltage side cap if I could have found one easily. I kept the new one in service as it had later firmware and if it dies in less than two years Smarhome can replace it. I consider it OK to keep as a spare but not tested enough to say 100% fixed.

Thank you for that information. The newer 2456S3 hardware version 4 and above. Have a snubber network across the relay contacts. It also passes some current through the load when it is Off.

I replaced the four capacitors on the low voltage side of the power supply. With a good quality low ESR type capacitor. I feel it was the two directly on the unregulated +12 volts supply as the voltage was very low and went up and down as it warmed up. The other two where on small linear regulators and probably didn't have to be Low ESR. I temporarily jumped the F1 on the serial daughter card {like the old 2412S} so I could read the unregulated +12 volts and let it run cover On. Voltage was steady for two weeks of tests and I did use it for some HouleLinc tests. Also tested it with DockLight Scripting and BusyRats PLM Test program. Was not stressed with lots of duties. Now in the box with F1 removed as a tentative spare if needed.

I am glad to see there is steady progress on the UDI Developed PLM. My recently purchased 2413S should last long enough for yours to be tested, production up to speed and released.

If your USB PLM does not work with HouseLinc. It maybe too old. Early 417 Link Database hardware versions of the PLM are not supported.

Is the LED on the side PLM On?

The XPCP has a tuned coupling transformer in it. Depending on how narrow a frequency it couples. It may not be as efficient with the 131.65 KHz Insteon frequency as the 120 KHz X10 frequency. I would suspect it would work fine.

Some of the sales pages for the Dual Band Devices specify an open air distance with no obstructions. I have seen some say 150 feet, others greater than one hundred feet and some none specified.

2414S? That is the very old obsolete Power Line Controller and is not compatible with any Insteon Module using I2 or I2CS Protocol. Lack of proper handling of Extended Insteon Messages was part of the problem. It did have the ability to have programs downloaded into it and run stand alone. Also had its own RTC chip in it. I still have a few left over from the early Developers Kit and purchased ones. I took the RTC batteries out as they where going flat and I didn't need battery juice inside my units. There is a chart on the 2413S sales page showing the differences. http://www.smarthome.com/2413S/PowerLinc-Modem-INSTEON-Serial-Interface-Dual-Band/p.aspx The two basic PLMs where 2412S and the present 2413S.

You should update the firmware to the latest. 4.0.5 was released before the devices where being sold. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13761-release-428-rc3-is-now-available/

It is an add on firmware module In the Administrative Console Help Tab. Purchase Modules. It should open up a new browser page and tell you what you have and what you can purchase if it is not yet installed.

The only problem with the X10 XPPF is it is rated at five amps. If you push it close to the five amps. The internal coils get quite warm and start to smell hot.

Good to read you found and fixed the problem.

If both setups are completely independent. They should work. Problems happen if you have Insteon devices common to both controllers. Each one does not know the other system exists and can overwrite links in the modules. Not known to the controller.

Momentarily jump the two together. If it works the kit should work. If it works and you have a intelligent display. It may reset the display. If power and data are both on the same two wires.

There is only two wires from the RF remote connected to the fan motor?