Brian H

Even if the power cycle. Fixes the no PLM found. It most likely will fail again in a short time period. If the PLM is not a recent one that just got locked up. When mine went bad. After a power cycle. It worked maybe twenty four hours before dying for good.

Yes the latest firmware should have some improvements in it and maybe correct flaws. Smarthome does not publicly post firmware change notices and I am not even sure if the Developers are getting the information. Now that the Developers Group was disbanded.

The new one will have the latest firmware in it.

Glad to read the rebuilt PLM is working now.

Smarthome is now showing them in stock. Amazon had some a day ago and expects more by 04/09/16. So hopefully your new one will arrive shortly.

Another thing to check on. Are there any new electronic devices in the home or an existing electronic device moved to a new location? Chargers for portable electronics can also be a problem sometimes. On the back of the 2413S PLM are some stickers. They will give a date code and hardware revision.

No schematics that I have seen so this is from what I see in the FCC Database internal photos. What looks like four triacs on the PCB/ Heat Sink. Photos not quite clear enough to read the part number. I would say one is for the light dimmer control and three for the fan motor speed. Also I see two large Mylar capacitors and I suspect they are switched into and out of the fan output. Depending on what speed is chosen. Could also be that High connects the line to the fan output and medium and low switch one of the capacitors into the fan motor output.

Was the fan set to its high speed setting for use with the Fanlinc? If it has electronic speed controls. Did you have to bypass it to use the Fanlinc?

NO you need a dry closure. No external voltage should be put on the Sensor Input. The I/O Linc has a 5 volt signal on its Sensor Input that you pull to the Ground terminal on it. A relay controlled by a 12 volt signal from the DSC controller would do the trick. If the DSC panel does not have any dry contact outputs. Both of the two relays below. Have a diode across the relay coil to protect the DSC panel 12 Volt DC output. When switched on and off from inductive voltages from the coil. This ELK Relay will do both 12 and 24 volts DC. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-912b-relay-module-12-24-volt.html This one 12 volts DC only. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-912-spdt-relay-board.html You would use the 12 volt DC output to control the relay. Then use the relay's Common connected to the I/O Linc ground terminal and the Normally Open to the I/O Linc Sensor Input. When the 12 volts DC pulls in the relay. It will turn the Sensor Input On.

Thank you for the very detailed instructions on creating custom KPL Buttons

I have also used the original LightDims that reduce the brightness about 70%. They work well.

I would depend on the the oven. The sensor would have to slip over one of the incoming power connections. Maybe where the line cord is internally connected to the oven. If it is a 220 volt model. One of the incoming lines. This guide was for a Dryer but should give you added information on how it can be done. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58

I suspect you are correct. The FCC Database photos of the 2413U only show a FTDI USB Interface chip on it along with the Link Database EEPROM and small 5 volt regulator. So the firmware may have to do a different data format for the USB controller to work correctly.

If the sensors are just close enough to activate every time and there is any vibrations or slight movements they may false. You may want to see if you can find their gap specifications. They do make security sensors that are rated as Large Gap and have a much wider gap between the magnet and sensor where they work. .

You could use a MAMAC Systems CT800 {solid core} or CT805 {split core and can be snapped over a wire without disconnecting it} current sensor. To trigger an I/OLinc. If you have access to the oven's wiring. So you can slip the sensor over the one of the AC input wires to sense when it is On. The CT800 senses .5 Amp to 200 Amp currents and has a dry contact output. That can trigger the sensor input of the I/OLInc. If the oven has some electronic controls. You may have to pick the AC line not powering the controls as .5 amps to the controls may trigger it.

I don't think the main boards firmware is to different between the USB and Serial Versions. It will report it has the USB Subcategory ID and not the Serial Port ID. The ISY994i may balk at the different ID. You may want to try it and see if it works. Smarthome is still showing 04/22/2016 as the expected in stock date. As it is on back order right now. One of the Amazon vendors is showing 04/05/2016 but there is no guarantee it will be the latest firmware and hardware.

There is no capacitor in C32's position on my hardware 1.5 or my hardware 1.B. The gunk around the LED is normal for many Insteon products. Seems the assembler with the glue applicator used to hold the LED in place likes to over fill the space. The white residue near the daughter board connector. Is most likely poorly cleaned PCB after soldering. Has been seen in many different Insteon Modules. My C3, C11, C7, C13 and C8 didn't show any signs of failures in mine. Though a capacitance meter showed they where not in specification anymore. C7 and C13 in one of my Version 2 2443 Access Points that uses the same base board with no daughter board and a different firmware. Showed slightly bulge tops or swollen rubber seals on the bottom.

If you don't have a solder sucker to clean out the holes. Many times heating the pad and then using a sewing needle to clear the hole works.

The only thing to watch with Amazon. Is if it is sold and shipped by Amazon or one of their Amazon Stores and fulfilled by Amazon. I am not sure if their Amazon Stores always have the latest versions.

Must be the 2413S serial version. As the signal cable between the PLM and the ISY994i is serial protocol. The 2413U is a USB type interface. My Hardware V1.5 Date Code 1122. Lasted about a day after letting it rest with no power. Dell is showing 3-5 day shipping normally for the 2413S. I suspect they have it shipped from Smarthome. I bought a 2413S from Amazon and it was the latest hardware. As they where waiting for more stock when I ordered it. Was $66.95 while Smarthome was $79.99 I rebuilt my 2413S V1.5 using the information in this thread. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/

OLD PLM. Date Code:1051 week 51 of 2010. V1.4 is one of the ones with problem power supplies. Above V2.0 is supposed to have the improved power supply parts in it. The LED going out and the ISY994i going into safe mode. Is a common indication the power supply has failed. Since there is a Back Order for the 2413S PLM. It may take awhile to get a new one. Last time I looked Smarthome indicated 04/22/2016 is expected new stock date. Amazon dealers also have finally run out of them. Amazon expects 03/29/2016. So Smarthome may not have updated their site yet.

The 2413S has NO power on the serial port RJ45 connector. Only the older 2412S had unregulated 12 volts on the serial connector. When the 2413S power supply is going bad. One of the indications is a dim or Green Led out. Sometimes a power cycle of the PLM will give it enough to restart for a short time. Another indication is the Link Database is empty. The ISY controller checks for a PLM connected on a soft or power cycle reboot. Your PLM may have failed and found when you did the soft reboot.

You can use a Mamac CT-800 current sensor. Over one if the incoming AC Power Lines to sense when it is on or off. It has a dry contact relay in it and can trigger an I/OLinc Sensor Input. It can sense from .5 Amp to 200 Amp AC current. There is also a CT-805 that has a snap over wire feature so you don't have to disconnect any wiring. I picked up a CT-800 on Ebay for $12.50 with shipping. Tutorial from Cocoontech. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58 My old dryer has a three wire plug. Line-Line-Neutral. Motor is 120 volts and a separate Ground wire is on the frame to a cold water pipe.

I doubt the inductor is damaged. The two capacitors in the Pi filter are the biggest problem. Fujucon is not the most well known brand of capacitor. C2D is on the output of a small 5 volt linear regulator. So it does not have to be a low ESR. Just a good brand and probably a 105C temperature rating. Also in a fairly open area so a slightly fatter or longer one may fit. I believe the lead spacing on it was 1.5mm when I measured it.

C3 OK C11 OK C7,C13 OK C8 Is there maybe a typo. UTS1C100MDD is not a valid number. They do have the UST1C100MDD. It has a 1.5mm lead spacing. The 1TE suffix has a 5mm lead spacing. Mine are 1.5mm C2D that part number is marked as a Non Stocked Item 14 weeks lead time.