Brian H

The ISY99i was working OK and then started going into Safe Mode? You may want to contact UDI Support directly. They are excellent and will even schedule an appointment to troubleshoot your PLM and ISY994i for problems remotely if need. If you have not found the UDI wiki it is just full of useful information. Like a full users manual and troubleshooting information. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... =Main_Page

Click on the sensor listing in the device tree and there should be an Options Tab on the bottom right side of the modules properties screen.

I doubt you damaged the 2413S PLM. When you say Reset. Was it through the Administrative Console or a Factory Reset with the Set Button? Where you using the start linking method or the New Insteon Device choice in the Link Management drop down menu, to add module? The flashing LED may indicate it is in the Linking Mode that was not stopped before trying to do something else. There are lots of tutorials and information in the wiki. Like full users manuals and how to start up guides. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... =Main_Page

When you replaced the PLM. Did you power down the old PLM and ISY99i? The detection of PLM is done when the ISY99i powers up. If it was not power cycled it will not see the new PLM. From what I have seen here. Power down both the PLM and ISY99ii Replace the PLM and power it up first so it is completely initialized. Then Power up the ISY99i. Then use the Restore Modem (PLM) choice in the files menu. To add the new PLMs ID to all the modules in the system,. If your old PLM was a 2412S supplying power to the ISY99i. The new 2413S will not supply the power and you have to use an external power supply.

I reinstalled my problem 2413S into my ISY994i setup. It went dead in a few days. This time I observed it with out any intervention at all. In the time period of two hours. It went On and Off three Times. It was On when. It sent out the commands from the ISY994i as scheduled. My old V1.0 2413S is now handling the ISY994i's duties for now. I am not going to blow another $79.99 plus shipping on a device with a reputation to fail in just over its two year warranty period.

If the PLM is less than two years old. You should be able to get a warranty replacement. Mine is two years and four months old and totally unreliable. Just dies LED Out. Then later in the day is 100% good again and the LED is On. With no power cycle or my intervention. So for now. I have a original hardware 1.0; 2413S doing its thing.

I would also suggest try new bulbs. When you removed the bulbs you also changed the way the triac used for dimming due to a no load condition acts. It is still possible the switches are generating noise when a load is being driven.

Are you using a slow ramp rate On and Off? I may set up a spare module and try some of my Dimmable LED Bulbs. On a slow ramp rate and see how they act.

Most of the dimmable LEDs I have tried. Have a minimum dim level before they pop ON or OFF. It is the nature of the beast. Some are better than others. Philips is one of the better brands. Though even some models from Philips act differently. At one time. Smarthome had a list of dimmable LED bulbs they had tried. I believe they where Sylvania brand. You may want to try a few brands and see if you can find a more suitable one for your installation.

You are welcome. I am glad your problem was fixed.

What is the model of the motion sensor? Some may not have a good signal swing with the sensing input on the module. How have you set up the options in the module?

LED bulb electronics have to meet a standard of not putting electronic noise back on the power lines. Some manufacturers use a simple cheap cost capacitor directly between the line and neutral power input. This capacitor can absorb X10 and Insteon power line signals as noise. Adding a small coil before the capacitor on the line side eliminates this problem. Almost all the LED Bulbs I have tested. Do not absorb power line signals or make power line noise. You would have to try the ones you bought and see if anything gets changed. Good chance they will be OK. If they are not dimmable. Then using them on a Insteon Module that dims should be avoided. Even at 100% On they modify the AC enough to interact with the LED bulbs electronics.

I have my power supply for the ISY994i on my UPS. PLM is on a unfiltered front outlet of a Filterlinc and the UPS on the filtered outlet of the FilterLinc. That way the UPS AC Input noise filter doesn't effect the signals. The PLM can't be on an UPS because the power line Insteon and X10 signals will not pass through it and many also absorb signals on the power line side. Unless you want to try and use Insteon RF only communications as mentioned earlier in the thread.

My 2413S died the other night. The LED on the side was out. I power cycled the ISY994i and PLM. The LED was still out. Then the ISY994i detected the PLM problem and was in Safe Mode. As I woud have expected. Tried a Factory Reset on the PLM and it still was out. Used a spare 2413S and used the Restore Modem (PLM) to get back in business. The next morning after sitting off for maybe 14 hours. It again was working. Put it in the Scrap box as I no longer trust it. I also missed the 20% Off sale by one day. Though they are listed as Back Ordered until 03/25/2014

All CFLs and LED bulbs are not the same. All of them are required to limit how much electronic noise they put back on the power lines. I am not sure if some of the lower cost one actually get the noise much lower than the allowed standard. How the manufacturer reduces the noise does it makes a difference. Simply a capacitor across the power input will stop the noise but it also absorbs X10 and Insteon power line signals. By adding one coil to the line wire before the capacitor usually allows the internal noise to be stopped while the X10 and Insteon signals are not effected greatly. I have disassembled some dead CFLs and some manufacturers had the coil on the line wire and many didn't.

Is there a Neutral Power connection in the switch boxes? Insteon modules require a Neutral power connection to work. Except the two wire SwitchLinc that steals the power through the load and it has to be an incandescent load. The Neutral maybe in the rear of the switch box. Maybe wire nutued to other Neutrals between the switch boxes. If you find a White wire on the original switches terminals and the switch does not have an outlet or back light on it. That White is not Neutral but is part of a switch loop.

One thing not brought up yet. Is the SwitchLinc you are trying to use. The 2474D two wire one that steals power through the load? It is not made for anything but incandescent loads and may have unexpected results with other type loads.

Sounds like they have electronic controls and power supply. 2477D is a dimmer type and should not be used on electronic controls and power supplies. Unless you can verify they are compatible with a dimmer switch. Best fix is a relay type Insteon Switch that is On and Off only. Like the original manual wall switch. A 2477S maybe a better choice.

As pointed out. Yes it could be the load. I have a few model CFLs and LED bulbs that are either power line noise makers or are a good signal sucker when On.

The Pro add on can be purchased if you need it. You don't need a whole new ISY994i. In the Help Purchase Modules choice. See if the Pro add on is avilable to purchase. When you purchase it. UDI updates your ISY994i to add the Pro features remotely. Though I would wait until you get assistance on calculating your Scenes, Programs and total links.

If the heated floor controls are 24 volt AC then you maybe able to use an Insteon Thermostat. Your contractor should have the needed information for you. Post your findings. As there maybe a work around if they are switching the line power through the thermostats directly.

1. Yes

The HouseLinc devices.xml file also shows an interesting 2450 I/OLinc with 50/60 cycle auto select. It also has a different Sub Cat 0D. Along with a 2248-222,-422,-442,-522 series of I/O Modules that all have new Sub Cat IDs. From the suffix numbers. It could be they are now going international.

Since it is a battery powered device. It goes into a power saving mode and can't be accessed. Did you wake it up first. Then make the changes. Hold the Set Button until it beeps. Then try and make the updates.

By chance is there a model number and hardware revision sticker on the I/OLinc? Reason I asked. Is I have seen some new I/OLIncs and a unreleased I/O module number. In the HouseLinc Devices.xml file with different Sub Cat numbers. What power requirements are listed on the back label?