Brian H

Try this. Only needs the reset button pushed on the ISY99i/ISY994i http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Resetting_Your_Userid/Password

Yes the capacitors called out in the start of the thread should be fine. You may find, (C7 & C13) are two10uF/25 Volt ones where the 10uF/35 Volt ones should be used. I have one hardware V1.0 with 25 volt caps and one with 35 volt caps. One of the replacement capacitors in the list was discontinued. There was a new part found and called out further into the thread. Not enough long time data on the latest 2413S PLM. To say the PLM is fixed. The power supply was updated.

It is possible there where some modules made that had different properties for a special order and then sold refurbished if they had too many. Especially if the Subcategory number it reported was not a standard one.

I have had no issues with the Refurbished ON/OFF Modules and 2457D2R Lamplinc I have purchased. They did have a R appended on the part number and not the latest firmware. I don't think Smarthome or Smartlabs is going to take a module apart to reprogram its firmware. There may have been retail part numbers on some of the other models I have purchased. Though they where things that may not be normally added like Access Points.

The silver cylinder is a crystal and they rarely fail. The goo is just component mounting glue. I have repaired some of the original 2456S3 Appliancelincs. I have had a few of then start pulsing On and Off at a one second rate. The main filter capacitor had dried out and needed changing. I have not found a replacement 30 volt zener diode that frequently failed. Many times burning the board or solder got too hot and it fell off.

You may want to look at this wiki link. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card I am not sure unzipping the firmware file to a new SD Card and installing it will work correctly.

Thank you for the update. I am glad it worked out for you.

Yes I have seen that the PCS devices use the Preset Dim. So you should be fine.

You may have to add some small delay times between the X10 commands in the then section of your example. If the commands jam up on each other and cause corrupted X10 commands. The Preset Dim may not work. X10 modules do not respond to a Preset Dim. Only a Standard Dim. Later Soft Start X10 modules Dim or Extended Code Direct Dim X10 commands. Do you have an X10 Coupler/Repeater in your X10 setup? Some of the X10 Active Repeaters can corrupt Insteon messages. By send an X10 command for what it thinks is an X10 message.

If I read your original post. You want to replace the XPT X10 wall keypad controller with a 2487S. You trying to have the 2487S buttons send the X10 commands. Have you tried programming them with an X10 address yet?

That was probably me "BLH" responding to your Smarthome Forums message. Though Tom has also added a reply. 3.3.10 is the last official ISY99i firmware. All the later versions are too large to fit into a ISY99i and only are for the ISY994i series hardware. I would use 3.3.10 on an ISY99i. I put it on my ISY99i before retiring it when I got my ISY994i. I have Hardware 2.4 revision 2412S PLMs. There are two different Firmware versions in them. 52 or 61. So some hardware versions may have different firmware version in them. The firmware 61 2412S worked on my ISY99i and Docklight Scripting testing showed X10 could be received and sent.

So your "good" 2412S has the firmware in it that has issues with X10, that you need. The "bad" one that worked for two days. Now puts the ISY99i into the Safe Mode as it is not detected at boot up of the ISY99i. I will think on your findings and see if I can think of a way to further test the one acting bad at the present time. I still have a few of the 2412S with 417 link databases {not used for X10 so smaller size not important } and an ISY99i. Can try and see what we maybe able to do testing wise.

Sorry for the confusion. The BUG was firmware 2.4 not the hardware 2.4. The problem 2412S was hardware 1.9 with firmware 2.4. I have seen stickers over stickers. Right from Smarthome and also seen Date Code Formats change on the labels. Depending on what year it was manufactured. Your hardware 2.4 does not respond to the ISY99i and will not communicate at all?

I didn't see any notes from end users in the database I linked to for the hardware 2.4. Probably has v.52 firmware in it.

If it worked with the 4A firmware 2412S. The ISY99i is probably OK. With a 2412S that also powers up the ISY99i. You don't have to power the 2412S up first and then connect the ISY99i. I understand at start up the ISY99i tries a few times for a reply from the 2412S before triggering a no PLM safe mode condition. I can't find a hardware 1.75 2412S in the end users database provided by users. Hardware 1.9 was the first 2412S released and it was with the Simplehomenet {Smartenit} EZIO8SA. It also had a severe BUG in the 2.4 firmware. About 50% of the time a Factory Reset made it smoke and fail. Seems the small Charge Pump 30 volt power supply for the power line transmitter would get turned on at 100% and burned out. http://www.madreporite.com/insteon/Insteon_device_list.htm

2412S Quick users Guide. There is no full users manual. http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2412sqs.pdf The capacitor fix for the 2413S does not apply to the 2412S. Completely different circuitry. Including a linear power transformer type power supply and not the switching type in a 2413S. 2412S Insteon Modem Developers Guide. Has schematics and parts list in it. The capacitors should be on the parts list. I have never tried changing them so I don't know how difficult it is to change them. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/2413dev-042007-en.pdf Since there is unregulated 12 volts {around 18.5 volts DC} on the 2412S RJ45 serial port. Though I don't believe pin #2 and #7 are on the same cable pair. In a network jack. You may want to look at both the RJ45 jack on the PLM and ISY99i Port A. To verify one of the pins maybe out of place. Also if not tried yet. A different cable between the PLM and ISY99i. Do you have the hardware version on the PLM's label? Some also had the firmware label.

Low ESR would be recommended. I believe it has the switching power supply IC {could not read the part number from the FCC Database Photos} on the solder side of the PCB that Smartlabs liked to use. That could also be why the glue holding the crystal is discolored. Power supply components on the other side of the PCB.

The original ones with the silicon like glue. Bake them at about 200 Degrees F for maybe 30 minutes. Grab with thick gloves. Top should pop off. If memory serves me some of my latest ones had a different glue and didn't budge after the baking. There is a thread on the Candlepower Forums on the Cree 100 Watt ones failing. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?411223-Cree-100w-daylight-bulbs-keep-dying-Anyone-else-have-that-problem&s=2434390dcdd8f3e25e14db866b40f1c9

I would have hoped the shell falling off issue would have been addressed by now. My early ones the shells got loose and could be popped off. The flickering and pulsing could be the contact springs they used between the driver PCB and the LED PCB. I have a few where I could gently, with a plastic soldering tool, press on the contacts and they would work again. Also saw small burn marks on the contacts where the spring clips where arcing. I don't recommend folks poke around in them. The LED's are in a series setup and the voltage on the contacts is about 218 volts DC and if the LED's are not making contact. Driver runs around 285 volts DC and holds a charge with no load on it.

C7 and C13 where changed to the 100uF in the later revision hardware. I would probably test them in my slightly older model ones that had the 10uF ones. My V2.1 has the 100uF ones in it. Tight fit as the PCB was not changed for component changes. Not sure if any other parts where changed in the V2.1. 2D is in the 5 volt regulator for the Daughter Board electronics. On the output of the 5 volt regulator U1.

The ISY99i and ISY994i need a serial PLM. So if you don't have one yet. You will have to add it to your list of needed parts. If by chance the ISY99i has a old PLM with it. The older 2412S units have a 417 Link Database. The later 2412S had a larger Link Database. The 2413S is Dual Band. If you have a 2412S it will power the ISY interface through the serial connection. The 2413S does not power it. So you may also need a wall wart power supply. 5 Volt 1 Amp was in my ISY994i kit.

The flickering LED bulbs. Are they all on Insteon Modules or some on mechanical switches also flicker? Your power company didn't install a new Smart Meter on your home recently? I only have A19 or A21 LED bulbs in use. No MR16 ones.

It could be possible the LED bulbs electronics can start to deteriorate over time. Depending on its design. Heat is the enemy of electronics. If you don't get the heat out and the electronics get hot. Their life is reduced. Electrolytic capacitors are the most likely to go. The 25 years is based on a 3 hour a day On time. Some LED bulbs to keep their internal electronic noise from getting to the power lines. Put a simple AC rated capacitor across the AC input. Cheap fix for the noise but also sucks up power line signals like Insteon and X10. If they are off. They should not cause any issues. I have some of the Phillips Slim Line LED bulbs I don't remember any issues. In my evaluation tests but will revisit them. I actually have some Lighting Science Group LED bulbs that I can't imagine pass the FCC emissions tests. Turn them On and they can knock out every FM radio in the house receiving anything. List of working LED bulbs maybe a good ides. Just make sure if possible. The exact part number is listed. I have some of the old style Phillips EnduraLED bulbs. 12E26A60 and 12E26A60-1. Both called the same thing but act differently when used with a dimmer.

The 2876SB may not have the Air Gap Switch. To do a factory reset or power cycle reset. With it Off and the Status LED On. If you pull the Set Button out and the LED does not go Off. You have an earlier one with no Air Gap Switch. You may want to try turning Off the breaker to the 2876SB and then wait maybe ten seconds and then turn the breaker back On. For a power cycle reset. For a Factory Reset. Try holding the top paddle for 10 seconds. The Status LED should start blinking. Then release. Tap the set button all the way in then release it. Then hold the set button all the way in for 10 seconds then release.

Washer probably has electronic controls. To keep its internal electronic noise from getting onto the power lines. Most likely they put a simple AC rated capacitor across the AC Power. That will kill the internal noise but also absorb Insteon and X10 power line signals. I have seen similar electronic washer, dryer and even refrigerators found as trouble makers reported on the X10 Forums.